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4/17/2026 8:06:10 PM EDT
Quick back story. My AR is basically a stock gun. A little back story. I have had issues getting to shoot reloads it would hit the primer and jam up. Shoots factory loads just fine? After some reading I went ahead and replaced the hammer spring with a heavier spring. Took out today and the gun shoots but the trigger will not reset unless I gently hit the lower receiver and I can hear it reset. Any ideas on what to look into.
4/17/2026 10:08:20 PM EDT
[#1]
Here's an old thread that might get you started in the right direction.
https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/Trigger-not-resetting-/118-711859/
4/18/2026 12:48:49 AM EDT
[#2]
Originally Posted By COElkNut:
Quick back story. My AR is basically a stock gun. A little back story. I have had issues getting to shoot reloads it would hit the primer and jam up. Shoots factory loads just fine? After some reading I went ahead and replaced the hammer spring with a heavier spring. Took out today and the gun shoots but the trigger will not reset unless I gently hit the lower receiver and I can hear it reset. Any ideas on what to look into.
View Quote


The reload problem, either cases not correctly OAL lenght trimmed, or you did not fully size the case, or where using too much pressure at bullet crimping, that budge the case during the bullet crimp.  Hence get an ammo check gauge, to check your reloads.  
Also, if your long loading the bullets, then could be that bullet was imbending into rifling at loading to prevent the bolt from fully locking up.
Note, we can go deeper into this if needed, with more ways to check to make sure your reloads are in spec, but until the face of the carrier is tight against the back of the barrel extension, the back of the FP is not retracted out the tail of the bolt for a clean strike of it to correctly ignite the primer.  With B/C in hand, flip it over to look at the bottom of it, then pull the bolt in and out, so you can understand that the B/C does have a firing pin block to not allow the primer to be ignited until the bolt is fully locked home in the barrel extension lugs via the back of the bolt tail and back of it carrier channel.

Second problem should be a walk in the park, and just need to start here with FCG removed  for clean up and when you go to reinstall the FCG, make sure that the pins, the inside of the channels have been lubed with CLP


When the hammer and its spring are installed, make sure that the legs come off the coil downward, and the end of the spring legs are on top of the trigger pin as show in the photo above.


The last check, don't touch the trigger with upper shotgunned open, cock the hammer back, and as the hammer rear tail sear passes by the disco sear, the two should miss each other by the thickness of a sheet of copy paper. Hence why you want to knock off the burs from the two sears.

Posted By PlaymoreMinds:

'Twas not the <cough> sweet and innocent <cough> PlaymoreMinds...

<---skips away in frilly skirts to Candyland, leaving gutters and snorkels FAR behind.
4/18/2026 12:52:53 AM EDT
[#3]
And to add, when you are reinstalling the FCG parts, make sure  that the side of the trigger tail, is not binding on the sides of the selector U channel walls, and the J detent spring in the hammer has been side peened correctly, and the end of it not sticking out the bottom of the trigger to drag on the front of receiver void wall as the hammer is rotating on the hammer pin.
Posted By PlaymoreMinds:

'Twas not the <cough> sweet and innocent <cough> PlaymoreMinds...

<---skips away in frilly skirts to Candyland, leaving gutters and snorkels FAR behind.
4/18/2026 3:29:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: COElkNut][Edited] [#4]
That seems to be the issue the two sears were getting hung up on each filed down ever so slightly and they don’t touch now. Went out and ran 30 reloads and 30 factory loads and not a problem. Hope this is all it was. Thank you so much!!!!!
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