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Cornfire Arsenal? (Now Copperhead Safety vs Corn Gun Works?) (Page 5 of 10)
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Just a standard mil-spec trigger and NoDak Spud M16A1. Will continue to work with this damn thing but so far I prefer the Rare Breed 10 to 1 over this POS. Update: It works. Not the fault of Cornfire. Just needed some tuning. VERY satisfied with product! |
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I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
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Originally Posted By ARKAR: Just a standard mil-spec trigger and NoDak Spud M16A1. Will continue to work with this damn thing but so far I prefer the Rare Breed 10 to 1 over this POS. Have any other milspec triggers available to try? Looking at their website, they say that DPMS and CMMG triggers are a no go, FWIW. |
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I have several I can try. Got really frustrated last night. The hammer has wear on it where it is contacting the lever when cycling occurs. So I’m sure the trigger needs a bit of material removed as some have suggested. I have two Rare Breed, two 3 position Arizona Regulatirs and a 2 position which are all pretty much drop-in. This is the first lever setup that I’ve worked on. One of my Rare Breed modules is in a CMMG dedicated to.22LR carbine with Bore Buddy trip that took some tuning but runs pretty damn well. This Cornfire is in my M16A1 clone and I’m not sure what FCG it has in it. Probably an Anderson. Trying to make it work with a drop-in CMMG .22LR bolt and Bore Buddy trip. I wanted the A1 to retain the stock-looking appearance as much as possible so I went with the MARC. I’m sure it’ll work out with more tuning/fitting. Need to add: I did get it to run a few bursts last night. I’ll get it going just need time to understand how these work. Have a much better understanding now. Thank you for replying. |
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I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
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Originally Posted By georgeib: I saw the Amazon chinesium screws before deciding to go ahead and order from McMaster-Carr instead. The reviews were enough to change my mind. YMMV, but spending an extra few bucks to get known good screws that aren't going to snap seems very much worth it to me. Oof! I hadn’t read the reviews  Thanks for the heads up and saving me some grief. |
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Originally Posted By georgeib: Have any other milspec triggers available to try? Looking at their website, they say that DPMS and CMMG triggers are a no go, FWIW. JFC…many of the parts kits over the years have been DPMS and CMMG |
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| Received my second MARC today, as well as a metal lever blocker from AS Designs. Got it installed in my Daniel Defense M4A1 without any more issues than normal (I truly hate messing with triggers, especially the narrow hammer on my Geissele). Function tests work in all three settings. The lever blocker seems loose, but seems to work for its intended purpose. Don't know when I'll have a chance to test fire it (probably won't be until after Christmas) but here's hoping it works. The last time I tried a MARC in this lower, it bound with the Geissele SSA I have in it. Doesn't seem to be happening, but won't know for sure until I can test fire it. |
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Originally Posted By fulautotank: I will be testing two different rifles tomorrow both have the MARC frt. One with G SSA-E and another with a mil spec trigger. We'll see how it goes      |
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Originally Posted By Alpha-17: Received my second MARC today, as well as a metal lever blocker from AS Designs. Got it installed in my Daniel Defense M4A1 without any more issues than normal (I truly hate messing with triggers, especially the narrow hammer on my Geissele). Function tests work in all three settings. The lever blocker seems loose, but seems to work for its intended purpose. Don't know when I'll have a chance to test fire it (probably won't be until after Christmas) but here's hoping it works. The last time I tried a MARC in this lower, it bound with the Geissele SSA I have in it. Doesn't seem to be happening, but won't know for sure until I can test fire it. What did the metal blocker run you? |
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Originally Posted By ARKAR: I have several I can try. Got really frustrated last night. The hammer has wear on it where it is contacting the lever when cycling occurs. So I’m sure the trigger needs a bit of material removed as some have suggested. I have two Rare Breed, two 3 position Arizona Regulatirs and a 2 position which are all pretty much drop-in. This is the first lever setup that I’ve worked on. One of my Rare Breed modules is in a CMMG dedicated to.22LR carbine with Bore Buddy trip that took some tuning but runs pretty damn well. This Cornfire is in my M16A1 clone and I’m not sure what FCG it has in it. Probably an Anderson. Trying to make it work with a drop-in CMMG .22LR bolt and Bore Buddy trip. I wanted the A1 to retain the stock-looking appearance as much as possible so I went with the MARC. I’m sure it’ll work out with more tuning/fitting. Need to add: I did get it to run a few bursts last night. I’ll get it going just need time to understand how these work. Have a much better understanding now. Thank you for replying. I think it's the NDS receivers that are out of spec. I too have a M16A1 clone built on NDS matched receivers with a mil-spec DPMS lower parts kit from the early 2010s. No binding in the lower doing the "pushing the hammer down" test with no modification to the trigger. No binding moving the selector in 3 positions. I had the same issue you mentioned with the hammer not dropping in FRT mode at first, then it just started working. When I cycled the gun the BCG hung to the rear so tight I had to hammer out the take down pin for it to release. This was my 2nd MARC. The first MARC (apparently earlier version with the dot) is in a Bushmaster 20" A2, a little clearance/polish on the trigger and it runs perfect. I tried the NDS A1 upper on that lower and 1st - the pins where extremely tight to push in. This lower has taken multiple uppers perfectly fine in the past. 2nd - same issue, total lockup when cycling in FRT mode. 3rd - the NDS lower will not take other uppers. I couldn't even get the pins to start. I moved the 2nd MARC (apparent newer version with no dot) to a Colt 6920 I had cut the sear web out of the lower. Perfect fit, no binding, no FCG mods and runs perfectly. I don't know what to do to solve this issue. I assume the lever is contacting the rear lug or some part of the upper and binding it to the BCG when it's fully rearward. Either the bore in the upper is too low or most likely the rear lug location is slightly short (why other receivers don't fit or are extremely tight). I didn't want to mod the lever tip or cut the upper. You mentioned having AZRs, that might be a better fit in the retro NDS and try the MARC in another receiver set. I haven't tried an AZR yet. |
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Originally Posted By Kurt_D: I think it's the NDS receivers that are out of spec. I too have a M16A1 clone built on NDS matched receivers with a mil-spec DPMS lower parts kit from the early 2010s. No binding in the lower doing the "pushing the hammer down" test with no modification to the trigger. No binding moving the selector in 3 positions. I had the same issue you mentioned with the hammer not dropping in FRT mode at first, then it just started working. When I cycled the gun the BCG hung to the rear so tight I had to hammer out the take down pin for it to release. This was my 2nd MARC. The first MARC (apparently earlier version with the dot) is in a Bushmaster 20" A2, a little clearance/polish on the trigger and it runs perfect. I tried the NDS A1 upper on that lower and 1st - the pins where extremely tight to push in. This lower has taken multiple uppers perfectly fine in the past. 2nd - same issue, total lockup when cycling in FRT mode. 3rd - the NDS lower will not take other uppers. I couldn't even get the pins to start. I moved the 2nd MARC (apparent newer version with no dot) to a Colt 6920 I had cut the sear web out of the lower. Perfect fit, no binding, no FCG mods and runs perfectly. I don't know what to do to solve this issue. I assume the lever is contacting the rear lug or some part of the upper and binding it to the BCG when it's fully rearward. Either the bore in the upper is too low or most likely the rear lug location is slightly short (why other receivers don't fit or are extremely tight). I didn't want to mod the lever tip or cut the upper. You mentioned having AZRs, that might be a better fit in the retro NDS and try the MARC in another receiver set. I haven't tried an AZR yet. Originally Posted By Kurt_D: Originally Posted By ARKAR: I have several I can try. Got really frustrated last night. The hammer has wear on it where it is contacting the lever when cycling occurs. So I’m sure the trigger needs a bit of material removed as some have suggested. I have two Rare Breed, two 3 position Arizona Regulatirs and a 2 position which are all pretty much drop-in. This is the first lever setup that I’ve worked on. One of my Rare Breed modules is in a CMMG dedicated to.22LR carbine with Bore Buddy trip that took some tuning but runs pretty damn well. This Cornfire is in my M16A1 clone and I’m not sure what FCG it has in it. Probably an Anderson. Trying to make it work with a drop-in CMMG .22LR bolt and Bore Buddy trip. I wanted the A1 to retain the stock-looking appearance as much as possible so I went with the MARC. I’m sure it’ll work out with more tuning/fitting. Need to add: I did get it to run a few bursts last night. I’ll get it going just need time to understand how these work. Have a much better understanding now. Thank you for replying. I think it's the NDS receivers that are out of spec. I too have a M16A1 clone built on NDS matched receivers with a mil-spec DPMS lower parts kit from the early 2010s. No binding in the lower doing the "pushing the hammer down" test with no modification to the trigger. No binding moving the selector in 3 positions. I had the same issue you mentioned with the hammer not dropping in FRT mode at first, then it just started working. When I cycled the gun the BCG hung to the rear so tight I had to hammer out the take down pin for it to release. This was my 2nd MARC. The first MARC (apparently earlier version with the dot) is in a Bushmaster 20" A2, a little clearance/polish on the trigger and it runs perfect. I tried the NDS A1 upper on that lower and 1st - the pins where extremely tight to push in. This lower has taken multiple uppers perfectly fine in the past. 2nd - same issue, total lockup when cycling in FRT mode. 3rd - the NDS lower will not take other uppers. I couldn't even get the pins to start. I moved the 2nd MARC (apparent newer version with no dot) to a Colt 6920 I had cut the sear web out of the lower. Perfect fit, no binding, no FCG mods and runs perfectly. I don't know what to do to solve this issue. I assume the lever is contacting the rear lug or some part of the upper and binding it to the BCG when it's fully rearward. Either the bore in the upper is too low or most likely the rear lug location is slightly short (why other receivers don't fit or are extremely tight). I didn't want to mod the lever tip or cut the upper. You mentioned having AZRs, that might be a better fit in the retro NDS and try the MARC in another receiver set. I haven't tried an AZR yet. Arizona Regulators do NOT fit in NDS/H&R uppers. I own 5 such uppers, and only on one of them is the pocket in the upper big enough to fit the Regulator module. I took a grinder to the sides of one of my AZRs and eventually made it work in my 635 clone, but be warned. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Arizona Regulators do NOT fit in NDS/H&R uppers. I own 5 such uppers, and only on one of them is the pocket in the upper big enough to fit the Regulator module. I took a grinder to the sides of one of my AZRs and eventually made it work in my 635 clone, but be warned. |
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Originally Posted By fulautotank: I have six H&R uppers and 2 the pockets are too tight for the AZR. The third one I can lightly tap in to work and the other three they fit just fine. Apparently there are some variances in the H&R's uppers pocket size Originally Posted By fulautotank: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Arizona Regulators do NOT fit in NDS/H&R uppers. I own 5 such uppers, and only on one of them is the pocket in the upper big enough to fit the Regulator module. I took a grinder to the sides of one of my AZRs and eventually made it work in my 635 clone, but be warned. Roger, good info. |
| Update coming. I have my Cornfire MARC running in the NoDak Spud A1 clone with the drop-in CMMG and Bore Buddy SS trip as of this morning. I will update with picture in a bit. I will also post in the .22 LR setup thread. |
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Attached File Attached File (Top) CMMG dedicated carbine with Rare Breed(DTT) FRT 3 position and Bore Buddy full-auto/FRT trip kit. Runs well with stainless weight body and all 4 steel weights. Had to adjust the trip a tiny bit forward to make it work. Can add a picture if needed. (Bottom) XM16E1 clone built with NoDak Spud lower with a G.I. Upper purchased from Apex years ago. Uses CMMG drop-in kit, Bore Buddy Super Safety/Selector kit and a Cornfire Arsenal MARC Selector. Stainless Bore Buddy weight body with NO weights inside. Both run BEST with the red box Federal on the right(purchased years ago). That ammo seems to be hottest of the three pictured. Both run WELL with the Remington Golden Bullet in the middle. Seems not as hot as the Federal in the red box but hotter than the blue box Federal on the left. The carbine runs well with the blue box Federal on the left but the A1 rifle will NOT run that ammo well. It seems to be the lightest loaded of all three ammunition pictured. Attached File Attached File Attached File So I installed the Cornfire into the A1 lower Friday night. Dropped in the CMMG .22 conversion bolt, Bore Buddy weight kit(stainless body with all 4 stainless weights) and the Bore Buddy super safety/selector trip and was expecting it to run. After MUCH tuning, I trimmed the trigger on the left side because it required a very hard pull to drop the hammer. That solved that issue but it still wouldn’t run. This is the first super safety-type FRT system I have ever worked with so I was perplexed by there not being an adjustment for timing the hammer when the carrier is closing(like there is on the cassette-type FRT system on my carbine). I looked for info on this system on Bore Buddy’s website under the “Resources” section. There is a link to a customer write-up where the guy explains that he had to adjust the trigger-reset screw on the front of the trip to reset his trigger “earlier”. I disregarded that info thinking my issue as hammer follow due to the FRT lever not working correctly or timing when closing or bolt bounce. BUT it wasn’t any of those issues. I noticed when doing a cycle by hand function check that the hammer was staying captured by the disconnector(as in semi-mode) even though the selector was set to FRT mode. When test firing the gun would fire once and then have a condition with the hammer dropped with a live round in the chamber. I thought it was bolt bounce and kept tuning weights. NOPE, it was timing of the carrier not resetting the hammer. So I referred back to the Bore Buddy sight in the customer’s info and started adjusting the timing screw on the front of the trip to reset the hammer EARLIER and make it activate the MARC lever to disengage the disconnector and that was sufficient to let the hammer reset and drop just as the bolt closed(see pictured above). Still wasn’t 100% but ran much better. So I started working on the weight kit. After MUCH experimenting with the different weights and bodies(both aluminum and stainless), I ended up with the stainless steel weight body with NO weights inside and the Bore Buddy reduced-power blue 3 pound spring(stock is 5 pound). This setup got the rifle running VERY well as long as I don’t use the lighter-loaded(and very inconsistent) blue box Federal. When I use this ammo in the carbine with a Dead Air Mask you can hear how inconsistent that ammo is loaded. Some rounds sound loud(hyper-sonic) then the next round sounds like its subsonic. You can tell it’s the most inconsistent ammo of all three pictured. Attached File Attached File So that is what got my rifle running well! It’s in much need of cleaning and that will help it run even better but I wanted to see it run dirty before I cleaned it. I’d be happy to help anyone else or answer questions. That’s what we are all here for. |
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I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
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My MARC doesn’t work in a Geissele SD-C trigger I got on Black Friday. I would think it would work since it’s essentially a SSA trigger with flat face. Are new production Geissele triggers working for people? I did file a Larue MBT trigger to function and I tested a Colt Mil-spec trigger which works. |
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Originally Posted By ARKAR: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1693_jpeg-3675938.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1697_jpeg-3675939.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1698_jpeg-3675940.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1699_jpeg-3675941.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1700_jpeg-3675942.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1695_jpeg-3675944.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1701_jpeg-3675948.JPG Ok, pics uploaded. Let me get it wrote up and I'll post the info! Yours is adjusted to about where mine was when I was using an SS. Dropped in the MARC and a PSA EPT trigger w/ KVP reduced power spring kit. Everything else, lower, upper, dedicated conversion all the same parts as used with the GMR SS. Leaving the trip lever adjusted for the SS resulted in me not even being able to cycle the bolt with the MARC! The bolt would bind up as it tried to reset the trigger. Ran the reset screw all the way back in, function checked perfectly with the MARC. I went from 99% on a good day with the SS too 100% using the MARC. I have yet to get a dead trigger malfunction, this was the most common malfunction with the SS. As a matter of fact,the only malfunction I've had is one stove pipe in about 500rds using the MARC 
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Originally Posted By shultz: Huh, looking at your BB SS trip reset adjustment makes me scratch my head again and how different each setup can be! Yours is adjusted to about where mine was when I was using an SS. Dropped in the MARC and a PSA EPT trigger w/ KVP reduced power spring kit. Everything else, lower, upper, dedicated conversion all the same parts as used with the GMR SS. Leaving the trip lever adjusted for the SS resulted in me not even being able to cycle the bolt with the MARC! The bolt would bind up as it tried to reset the trigger. Ran the reset screw all the way back in, function checked perfectly with the MARC. I went from 99% on a good day with the SS too 100% using the MARC. I have yet to get a dead trigger malfunction, this was the most common malfunction with the SS. As a matter of fact,the only malfunction I've had is one stove pipe in about 500rds using the MARC Very interesting. I ran the screw out and noticed the binding and then started adjusting it back in until the binding went away and stopped there. This made the hammer reset properly and the drop just as the bolt closed. This thing is a blast! I debated about putting this setup in my M16A4 clone but the 1:12 twist of the A1 made more sense than the 1:7 twist of the A4 for a .22LR even though I’m not using this setup for accuracy. |
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I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
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Originally Posted By Chisel: My MARC doesn’t work in a Geissele SD-C trigger I got on Black Friday. I would think it would work since it’s essentially a SSA trigger with flat face. Are new production Geissele triggers working for people? I did file a Larue MBT trigger to function and I tested a Colt Mil-spec trigger which works. Same exact situation - I've been in contact with Cornfire to resolve. |
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Originally Posted By rhino1909: Same exact situation - I've been in contact with Cornfire to resolve. Originally Posted By rhino1909: Originally Posted By Chisel: My MARC doesn’t work in a Geissele SD-C trigger I got on Black Friday. I would think it would work since it’s essentially a SSA trigger with flat face. Are new production Geissele triggers working for people? I did file a Larue MBT trigger to function and I tested a Colt Mil-spec trigger which works. Same exact situation - I've been in contact with Cornfire to resolve. Do you guys have the early Cornfire MARCs? The ones with the dot on the side of the hook? |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Arizona Regulators do NOT fit in NDS/H&R uppers. I own 5 such uppers, and only on one of them is the pocket in the upper big enough to fit the Regulator module. I took a grinder to the sides of one of my AZRs and eventually made it work in my 635 clone, but be warned. The trigger in my NDS A1 lower was tight. They are definitely a little out of spec. Rediscovered this earlier today when I was trying to get mine running. I used a stone in a dremel to take a tiny amount off each side and then used some cold blue on it. I guess I don’t remember it being that way when I put it together years ago. |
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I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
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Originally Posted By ARKAR: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1693_jpeg-3675938.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1697_jpeg-3675939.JPG (Top) CMMG dedicated carbine with Rare Breed(DTT) FRT 3 position and Bore Buddy full-auto/FRT trip kit. Runs well with stainless weight body and all 4 steel weights. Had to adjust the trip a tiny bit forward to make it work. Can add a picture if needed. (Bottom) M16A1E1 clone built with NoDak Spud lower with a G.I. Upper purchased from Apex years ago. Uses CMMG drop-in kit, Bore Buddy Super Safety/Selector kit and a Cornfire Arsenal MARC Selector. Stainless Bore Buddy weight body with NO weights inside. Both run BEST with the red box Federal on the right(purchased years ago). That ammo seems to be hottest of the three pictured. Both run WELL with the Remington Golden Bullet in the middle. Seems not as hot as the Federal in the red box but hotter than the blue box Federal on the left. The carbine runs well with the blue box Federal on the left but the A1 rifle will NOT run that ammo well. It seems to be the lightest loaded of all three ammunition pictured. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1698_jpeg-3675940.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1699_jpeg-3675941.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1700_jpeg-3675942.JPG So I installed the Cornfire into the A1 lower Friday night. Dropped in the CMMG .22 conversion bolt, Bore Buddy weight kit(stainless body with all 4 stainless weights) and the Bore Buddy super safety/selector trip and was expecting it to run. After MUCH tuning, I trimmed the trigger on the left side because it required a very hard pull to drop the hammer. That solved that issue but it still wouldn’t run. This is the first super safety-type FRT system I have ever worked with so I was perplexed by there not being an adjustment for timing the hammer when the carrier is closing(like there is on the cassette-type FRT system on my carbine). I looked for info on this system on Bore Buddy’s website under the “Resources” section. There is a link to a customer write-up where the guy explains that he had to adjust the trigger-reset screw on the front of the trip to reset his trigger “earlier”. I disregarded that info thinking my issue as hammer follow due to the FRT lever not working correctly or timing when closing or bolt bounce. BUT it wasn’t any of those issues. I noticed when doing a cycle by hand function check that the hammer was staying captured by the disconnector(as in semi-mode) even though the selector was set to FRT mode. When test firing the gun would fire once and then have a condition with the hammer dropped with a live round in the chamber. I thought it was bolt bounce and kept tuning weights. NOPE, it was timing of the carrier not resetting the hammer. So I referred back to the Bore Buddy sight in the customer’s info and started adjusting the timing screw on the front of the trip to reset the hammer EARLIER and make it activate the MARC lever to disengage the disconnector and that was sufficient to let the hammer reset and drop just as the bolt closed(see pictured above). Still wasn’t 100% but ran much better. So I started working on the weight kit. After MUCH experimenting with the different weights and bodies(both aluminum and stainless), I ended up with the stainless steel weight body with NO weights inside and the Bore Buddy reduced-power blue 3 pound spring(stock is 5 pound). This setup got the rifle running VERY well as long as I don’t use the lighter-loaded(and very inconsistent) blue box Federal. When I use this ammo in the carbine with a Dead Air Mask you can hear how inconsistent that ammo is loaded. Some rounds sound loud(hyper-sonic) then the next round sounds like its subsonic. You can tell it’s the most inconsistent ammo of all three pictured. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1695_jpeg-3675944.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1701_jpeg-3675948.JPG So that is what got my rifle running well! It’s in much need of cleaning and that will help it run even better but I wanted to see it run dirty before I cleaned it. I’d be happy to help anyone else or answer questions. That’s what we are all here for. Interesting. I have not tried adjusting the SS trip, as I only just got it a couple weeks ago. Before that I was using the GMR trip which is printed and not adjustable. I'm going to be too busy with work this week and family stuff with the holidays the week after, so I am not going to be able to do anything until after the first of the year. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Interesting. I have not tried adjusting the SS trip, as I only just got it a couple weeks ago. Before that I was using the GMR trip which is printed and not adjustable. I'm going to be too busy with work this week and family stuff with the holidays the week after, so I am not going to be able to do anything until after the first of the year. Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Originally Posted By ARKAR: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1693_jpeg-3675938.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1697_jpeg-3675939.JPG (Top) CMMG dedicated carbine with Rare Breed(DTT) FRT 3 position and Bore Buddy full-auto/FRT trip kit. Runs well with stainless weight body and all 4 steel weights. Had to adjust the trip a tiny bit forward to make it work. Can add a picture if needed. (Bottom) M16A1E1 clone built with NoDak Spud lower with a G.I. Upper purchased from Apex years ago. Uses CMMG drop-in kit, Bore Buddy Super Safety/Selector kit and a Cornfire Arsenal MARC Selector. Stainless Bore Buddy weight body with NO weights inside. Both run BEST with the red box Federal on the right(purchased years ago). That ammo seems to be hottest of the three pictured. Both run WELL with the Remington Golden Bullet in the middle. Seems not as hot as the Federal in the red box but hotter than the blue box Federal on the left. The carbine runs well with the blue box Federal on the left but the A1 rifle will NOT run that ammo well. It seems to be the lightest loaded of all three ammunition pictured. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1698_jpeg-3675940.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1699_jpeg-3675941.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1700_jpeg-3675942.JPG So I installed the Cornfire into the A1 lower Friday night. Dropped in the CMMG .22 conversion bolt, Bore Buddy weight kit(stainless body with all 4 stainless weights) and the Bore Buddy super safety/selector trip and was expecting it to run. After MUCH tuning, I trimmed the trigger on the left side because it required a very hard pull to drop the hammer. That solved that issue but it still wouldn’t run. This is the first super safety-type FRT system I have ever worked with so I was perplexed by there not being an adjustment for timing the hammer when the carrier is closing(like there is on the cassette-type FRT system on my carbine). I looked for info on this system on Bore Buddy’s website under the “Resources” section. There is a link to a customer write-up where the guy explains that he had to adjust the trigger-reset screw on the front of the trip to reset his trigger “earlier”. I disregarded that info thinking my issue as hammer follow due to the FRT lever not working correctly or timing when closing or bolt bounce. BUT it wasn’t any of those issues. I noticed when doing a cycle by hand function check that the hammer was staying captured by the disconnector(as in semi-mode) even though the selector was set to FRT mode. When test firing the gun would fire once and then have a condition with the hammer dropped with a live round in the chamber. I thought it was bolt bounce and kept tuning weights. NOPE, it was timing of the carrier not resetting the hammer. So I referred back to the Bore Buddy sight in the customer’s info and started adjusting the timing screw on the front of the trip to reset the hammer EARLIER and make it activate the MARC lever to disengage the disconnector and that was sufficient to let the hammer reset and drop just as the bolt closed(see pictured above). Still wasn’t 100% but ran much better. So I started working on the weight kit. After MUCH experimenting with the different weights and bodies(both aluminum and stainless), I ended up with the stainless steel weight body with NO weights inside and the Bore Buddy reduced-power blue 3 pound spring(stock is 5 pound). This setup got the rifle running VERY well as long as I don’t use the lighter-loaded(and very inconsistent) blue box Federal. When I use this ammo in the carbine with a Dead Air Mask you can hear how inconsistent that ammo is loaded. Some rounds sound loud(hyper-sonic) then the next round sounds like its subsonic. You can tell it’s the most inconsistent ammo of all three pictured. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1695_jpeg-3675944.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/50570/IMG_1701_jpeg-3675948.JPG So that is what got my rifle running well! It’s in much need of cleaning and that will help it run even better but I wanted to see it run dirty before I cleaned it. I’d be happy to help anyone else or answer questions. That’s what we are all here for. Interesting. I have not tried adjusting the SS trip, as I only just got it a couple weeks ago. Before that I was using the GMR trip which is printed and not adjustable. I'm going to be too busy with work this week and family stuff with the holidays the week after, so I am not going to be able to do anything until after the first of the year. I haven't had any luck with my GMR printed trip. It's too thick, it binds up the action in multiple guns I've tried. I use the Bore Buddy trip. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Interesting. I have not tried adjusting the SS trip, as I only just got it a couple weeks ago. Before that I was using the GMR trip which is printed and not adjustable. I'm going to be too busy with work this week and family stuff with the holidays the week after, so I am not going to be able to do anything until after the first of the year. Suppressed frt 22 is so much fun. |
An armed society is a polite society.
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I haven't had any luck with my GMR printed trip. It's too thick, it binds up the action in multiple guns I've tried. I use the Bore Buddy trip. The BB SS trip was pretty easy to set up and I was able to use a shimmed, steel lever with it as well.
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Originally Posted By HKH: Atrius works in belt fed and I think the ARC does as well Originally Posted By HKH: Originally Posted By scrolledandtabbed: don't try one in an MCR belt fed. The bolt locks back in the rear position and I had to take the buffer tube off to get it apart. Atrius works in belt fed and I think the ARC does as well Fuck yeah, thanks. I have an atrius laying around. |
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Anyone using it with a PSA (whatever they call their special single stage) with the notch in between the 2 sides of the trigger? I remember those triggers not working on the Skeltor frt's. |
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Keep that in mind when reading my comments:-)
Keep that in mind when reading my comments:-)
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Cornfire MARC in 1985 Colt SP1 Also running well in two other ARs: 10.5" and 14.5" |
Announcing your plans is a good way to hear God laugh
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-Al Swearengen
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Originally Posted By jimhoff: Cornfire MARC in 1985 Colt SP1  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDK90RfbuHYAlso running well in two other ARs: 10.5" and 14.5" Any modifications to the SP1 parts? |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Any modifications to the SP1 parts? I needed to swap to a full auto bolt carrier and I saw the original disconnector was cut down so I swapped that too without trying the original. That's about it. No changes to the buffer or modification of the lower on mine but it was a low-shelf, come to find out. |
Announcing your plans is a good way to hear God laugh
-Al Swearengen
-Al Swearengen
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Originally Posted By jimhoff: @ELittlefield I needed to swap to a full auto bolt carrier and I saw the original disconnector was cut down so I swapped that too without trying the original. That's about it. No changes to the buffer or modification of the lower on mine but it was a low-shelf, come to find out. Originally Posted By jimhoff: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Any modifications to the SP1 parts? I needed to swap to a full auto bolt carrier and I saw the original disconnector was cut down so I swapped that too without trying the original. That's about it. No changes to the buffer or modification of the lower on mine but it was a low-shelf, come to find out. Great! I put a 3 position AZR in my A1 clone... It's pretty awesome how it shoots. Light as a feather, but highly controllable even in FRT. I kept a full 18 round burst on an old TV I threw out at about 15 yards. By Grabthar's Hammer, I love mag dumping into garbage. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Great! I put a 3 position AZR in my A1 clone... It's pretty awesome how it shoots. Light as a feather, but highly controllable even in FRT. I kept a full 18 round burst on an old TV I threw out at about 15 yards. By Grabthar's Hammer, I love mag dumping into garbage. 20in barrels and rifle length stocks/buffers are the bees knees! I LOVE shooting my 20in A2 style with the FRT way more than my 16in carbine. |
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Originally Posted By BPR: Is that because it slows down the rate of fire? I think it is just the recoil impulse is lighter and smoother with a 20in barrel and rifle buffer. The rifle is just more controllable and easier to keep on target and does not want to climb and wonder as much as it does with carbine length barrels and buffers. If you ever get a chance to shoot a FRT in a 20in rifle, give it a try. |
Cornfire Arsenal? (Now Copperhead Safety vs Corn Gun Works?) (Page 5 of 10)
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