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Posted: 12/19/2018 4:29:11 AM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
Considering trying a 80%. Looking at the Easy Jig 1 from 80% arms Anyone use that one ? I watched their 20 minute video. Looks easy enough. What router would you recommend ? |
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Posted: 12/19/2018 8:39:18 AM EDT
[#2]
5D Tactical Pro and Makita router.
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Posted: 12/19/2018 9:59:02 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 5D tactical is the way most are going these days including the router they recommend, if you are only going to do one, you should be able to sell for not much less than you buy it for. But after you do one, you'll quickly realize you need about a dozen more. 
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Posted: 12/19/2018 12:39:53 PM EDT
[#4]
There is only one CORRECT choice....The 5D Tactical PRO!
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Posted: 12/19/2018 11:25:17 PM EDT
[#5]
Peronally, no problems with the Easy Jig Gen 1.
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Posted: 12/20/2018 12:20:23 AM EDT
[#6]
My wife was going to buy me the Harbor Freight Mini Mill for a combination birthday/Christmas present to do 80% lowers with. Luckily they were back ordered and everyone here suggested 5D tactical. After watching the videos and figuring all the extras I would have needed for the mill it seemed like a no brainier.
I bought the DeWalt 611 that they recommend as their 1st choice. It's under the Christmas tree waiting. |
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Posted: 12/20/2018 12:35:42 AM EDT
[#7]
I can't speak for any others but I have the 5DTactical version 2 (Pro?) and the Dewalt 611. I have milled out an AR-10 and multiple AR-15 lowers and it works GREAT if you take your time and use cutting fluid. I do recommend getting better drill bits for cutting the trigger group holes and the safety holes though - the drill bits they give you are not the best. I have built all of the lowers into working guns and they all work great. It really is quite fun to mill and build them - I keep building more because it is fun and not because I need them. I am contemplating getting the 5Dtactical 9mm AR build kit but I haven't seen any reviews on how well they work yet. The 5DTactical kit does ar-10, 1r-15 and ar-9 lowers so that is cool - not sure if the other do.
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Posted: 12/20/2018 12:43:22 AM EDT
[#8]
5D!
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Posted: 12/20/2018 6:43:04 PM EDT
[#9]
What is the real difference between the 5D universal jig and the PRO ?
I am only interested in making 5.56 lowers, don't care about 9mm or .308 |
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Posted: 12/20/2018 6:47:40 PM EDT
[#10]
I do not have a router yet. I am unsure if I need the full size router plate or not. Does it make a difference which router I get ?
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Posted: 12/20/2018 7:27:39 PM EDT
[#11]
I recently bought a gen 1 easyjig. Haven't gotten to use it yet due to my lower not coming in and not having a router yet
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Posted: 12/20/2018 11:22:49 PM EDT
[#12]
Check out ceratac.com. 179.00 for the 5D pro(ready mill kit ~40.00) lowers(Cerro forge) 39.99. DeWalt DWP 611 on Amazon 138.00.
I just finished the Ceratac AR308(5D tactical makes the jig adapter (39.99) Ceratac sells just for their AR 308, which is a SR762 lower). Fit and finish off that AR308 are excellent, and the 5d pro and Ceratac adapter milled put a perfect lower. |
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Posted: 12/20/2018 11:33:16 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What is the real difference between the 5D universal jig and the PRO ? I am only interested in making 5.56 lowers, don't care about 9mm or .308 If you buy it through Ceratac, it's just the AR15/9 adapters that it includes, and it's 179.99. The pro has a take down pin holder on one end, and an end plate adapter on the other. And ar15/9 use the same adapters, the combo kit comes with end plate adapter and offset TD pin holder to accommodate large frame on same jig, and can be purchased later should you wish to use you pro jog for large frame AR. The 5D pro is stupid easy to use, as idiot proof as I would think they could possibly be made. As for which compact router to get, the DeWalt dwp611 is their recommended router. But they make 3 readymill kits, A, B & C. Each kit lists the router(s) they fit. So look at those three, then look at the routers they fit, make your router choice and but corresponding readymill kit. |
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Posted: 12/20/2018 11:46:50 PM EDT
[#14]
Here's some photos of the 5d pro when I was milling out the Ceratac AR308.
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Posted: 12/21/2018 2:39:29 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Check out ceratac.com. 179.00 for the 5D pro(ready mill kit ~40.00) lowers(Cerro forge) 39.99. DeWalt DWP 611 on Amazon 138.00. I just finished the Ceratac AR308(5D tactical makes the jig adapter (39.99) Ceratac sells just for their AR 308, which is a SR762 lower). Fit and finish off that AR308 are excellent, and the 5d pro and Ceratac adapter milled put a perfect lower. |
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Posted: 12/21/2018 2:40:56 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You want the pro. It uses there ready mill(3 kits cover popular compact routers). The readymill attaches to the shaft of the router, eliminating the collect. I'd highly recommend a compact router(DeWalt dwp611 is excellent choice). I think a full size would impair visually seeing what you are doing and just overall cumbersome. If you buy it through Ceratac, it's just the AR15/9 adapters that it includes, and it's 179.99. The pro has a take down pin holder on one end, and an end plate adapter on the other. And ar15/9 use the same adapters, the combo kit comes with end plate adapter and offset TD pin holder to accommodate large frame on same jig, and can be purchased later should you wish to use you pro jog for large frame AR. The 5D pro is stupid easy to use, as idiot proof as I would think they could possibly be made. As for which compact router to get, the DeWalt dwp611 is their recommended router. But they make 3 readymill kits, A, B & C. Each kit lists the router(s) they fit. So look at those three, then look at the routers they fit, make your router choice and but corresponding readymill kit. I want to make sure I am not missing any needed parts and accessories if I decide to order, and find I need to order again because I missed something. I think that would cover it, but figured I better make sure. |
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Posted: 12/21/2018 9:21:57 AM EDT
[#17]
The Pro has thicker side plates which provide more support for the bit while drilling the hammer/trigger & safety holes.
5D Pro, router and tool kit to match, 80% lower, drill, cutting fluid or WD40, done. 
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Posted: 12/21/2018 10:38:37 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So, all I would need is the pro jig, the readymill kit, and the router ? And obviously at least one 80% lower. I want to make sure I am not missing any needed parts and accessories if I decide to order, and find I need to order again because I missed something. I think that would cover it, but figured I better make sure. Tools needed other then jig, readymill kit (which comes with 3/8", 21/64", and 5/32" drill bits).and router are: Drill(I'd recommend a bench top drill press although I just use a snap on cordless drill) A vise to clamp jig in 7/64" Allen wrenches(to change out the guide bushings as you progress through the three stages of milling) #2 Phillips to assemble jig. I use compressed air after each pass to blow off all shavings, I use wd40 for each cutting pass, just spray entire cutting pocket. I also only cut 1/3-1/2 of their recommended depth per cut(that's just me thinking I'll prolong end mill life). I use little to know pressure when cutting with the mill, and I'm only holding the base plate, never top of router. When installing router adapter to router base, have the readymill installed on router, slide router base on router and adjust readymill down far enough so the when you set the router adapter on, the bearing in the adapter slides over the ready mill shaft so the it centers the adapter for you, then install screws and tighten(use screws that come with adapter and save screws you removed from router base. It's best to drill initial pilot hole, and saftey selector hole vertically. But for me, without a drill press, I drill the trigger and hammer holes horizontally. I tried vertically but would break the drill bit.. I'd buy a couple spare 5/32" bits at your favorite local hardware store. |
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Posted: 12/21/2018 12:36:38 PM EDT
[#19]
Sounds like basic stuff I already have. I have a vise, no drill press but was just planning to use a cordless.
I also have a electric hammer drill, I wonder if that would be too much. |
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Posted: 12/21/2018 1:37:36 PM EDT
[#20]
I went with the 5D Tactical Jig based off of DaveP1 and PursuitSS experiences/recommendations.
It was a good recommendation.
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Posted: 12/21/2018 1:49:18 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What is the real difference between the 5D universal jig and the PRO ? The pro allows use of the Ready Mill bit, and can attach a vacuum. I did 2 dozen lowers with the non-pro model last year. My next batch of lowers comes in Monday, then I will try out the Pro. |
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Posted: 12/21/2018 2:55:16 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have both. The pro allows use of the Ready Mill bit, and can attach a vacuum. I did 2 dozen lowers with the non-pro model last year. My next batch of lowers comes in Monday, then I will try out the Pro. |
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Posted: 12/21/2018 3:05:40 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If I went with the basic one, what would I use instead of the ready mill bit ? Just off the shelf router bits ? |
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Posted: 1/8/2019 1:46:03 PM EDT
[#24]
I did buy the 5D tactical pro jig, and a Makita router.
What is the best video or instructions to get more knowledge before I try on a lower. I'd rather not ruin a lower or two in practice if I can help it. Thanks. |
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Posted: 1/9/2019 11:03:49 AM EDT
[#25]
The only video I watch was 5d tactical's video. Watched it one time, then dove in. I've never had a bad lower.
Just make sure the jig is assembled secure, but don't crank down the screws. When you need to swap out the guide pins in the router base plate, I removed the screws and used an Allen wrenches to gently rock the guide out(they fit snug). Just insert enough to catch the lip inside near the threads, push one way, then the other. Don't grab them with pliers of any kind. I'd also cut at shallowers depth cuts than what they have measured out until you get the hang of it. I still cut shallower, but that's just me. |
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Posted: 1/9/2019 7:52:06 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The only video I watch was 5d tactical's video. Watched it one time, then dove in. I've never had a bad lower. Just make sure the jig is assembled secure, but don't crank down the screws. When you need to swap out the guide pins in the router base plate, I removed the screws and used an Allen wrenches to gently rock the guide out(they fit snug). Just insert enough to catch the lip inside near the threads, push one way, then the other. Don't grab them with pliers of any kind. I'd also cut at shallowers depth cuts than what they have measured out until you get the hang of it. I still cut shallower, but that's just me. |
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Posted: 1/12/2019 12:38:44 AM EDT
[#27]
I'll be the contrarian here. I've only used 80%arms for their jigs and their lowers. I've seen over 10 made on the easy jig... ar15 and large frame 308s. The last one I milled was a billet cerakoted lower with a custom serial. 5D doesn't offer cerakote unless I'm mistaken. And I don't understand why 5D makes you mill out the takedown pin pocket. 80%A does not and the jig allows you to leave a wall up between the pockets which I like.
Been interested in trying out lower offerings from righttobear.com because of their custom laser etchings. Pretty cool stuff |
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Posted: 1/12/2019 7:14:13 AM EDT
[#28]
I have the 80% Arms Easy Jig. It works great and no problems.
Router with a vac attachment. I could do a lower on the wife's kitchen counter, no mess. |
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Posted: 1/12/2019 10:53:31 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What video is that ? Do you have a link ? There is one on their website, that was removed from youtube for violating their terms of service. Guessing that is the one. https://www.ceratac.com/5D-Tactical-Router-Jig-Pro-p/5d-jig15.htm Scroll down for video |
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Posted: 1/12/2019 10:58:29 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'll be the contrarian here. I've only used 80%arms for their jigs and their lowers. I've seen over 10 made on the easy jig... ar15 and large frame 308s. The last one I milled was a billet cerakoted lower with a custom serial. 5D doesn't offer cerakote unless I'm mistaken. And I don't understand why 5D makes you mill out the takedown pin pocket. 80%A does not and the jig allows you to leave a wall up between the pockets which I like. https://imgur.com/r7dh75M.jpg Been interested in trying out lower offerings from righttobear.com because of their custom laser etchings. Pretty cool stuff |
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Posted: 1/12/2019 12:47:26 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'll be the contrarian here. I've only used 80%arms for their jigs and their lowers. I've seen over 10 made on the easy jig... ar15 and large frame 308s. The last one I milled was a billet cerakoted lower with a custom serial. 5D doesn't offer cerakote unless I'm mistaken. And I don't understand why 5D makes you mill out the takedown pin pocket. 80%A does not and the jig allows you to leave a wall up between the pockets which I like. https://imgur.com/r7dh75M.jpg Been interested in trying out lower offerings from righttobear.com because of their custom laser etchings. Pretty cool stuff LINK |
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Posted: 1/13/2019 6:00:54 PM EDT
[#32]
Very upset and disappointed. I tried to go very slow and cautious but the router jumped and the ready mill bit is ruined. So far a lot of money and time spent for nothing.
 Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 1/13/2019 6:02:41 PM EDT
[#33]
Can you use an off the shelf router bits for that set up or will only the ready mill work ? I hate to spend another $50 and have it break again.
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Posted: 1/13/2019 6:06:48 PM EDT
[#34]
I’m in for router jigs vs jigs for vertical mills or other methods
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Posted: 1/13/2019 6:33:02 PM EDT
[#35]
Is that lower ruined too ? If I buy another ready mill I think I'd be afraid to mess with that one again as easy as the ready mill breaks.
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Posted: 1/13/2019 6:46:17 PM EDT
[#36]
How did your router jump? I've done several and never felt so much as a popcorn fart.
Are you holding the router, or the base? I hold the base, both hands, gliding around in clockwise circles. IDK if you could use a standard end mill as you'll notice that ready Mill's base fits the bearing in the base plate. I suppose you could remove that bearing to give room for collet, but it probably wouldn't be near as stable during deep cuts. I'm looking at you lower and I'm not seeing any cutting fluid. Looks rough. What do you have the jig clamped in? I see the marks up on top by bolt catch, and gouge down by selector. |
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Posted: 1/13/2019 6:49:07 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How did your router jump? I've done several and never felt so much as a popcorn fart. Are you holding the router, or the base? I hold the base, both hands, gliding around in clockwise circles. IDK if you could use a standard end mill as you'll notice that ready Mill's base fits the bearing in the base plate. I suppose you could remove that bearing to give room for collet, but it probably wouldn't be near as stable during deep cuts. I'm looking at you lower and I'm not seeing any cutting fluid. Looks rough. How often should I spray it ? I am not really sure how it jumped. I was holding the router. I went tediously slow setting it up and reading the instructions, watched the video. So I disappointed it turned out so bad. |
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Posted: 1/13/2019 6:54:28 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How did your router jump? I've done several and never felt so much as a popcorn fart. Are you holding the router, or the base? I hold the base, both hands, gliding around in clockwise circles. IDK if you could use a standard end mill as you'll notice that ready Mill's base fits the bearing in the base plate. I suppose you could remove that bearing to give room for collet, but it probably wouldn't be near as stable during deep cuts. I'm looking at you lower and I'm not seeing any cutting fluid. Looks rough. What do you have the jig clamped in? I see the marks up on top by bolt catch, and gouge down by selector. |
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Posted: 1/13/2019 6:57:32 PM EDT
[#39]
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Posted: 1/13/2019 7:06:16 PM EDT
[#40]
Whole lotta WOW going on here.
I'm going with way to deep settings and lack of clamping force on the router's depth adjustment. Left side above safety, deep side cut? Individual passes not lining up with the next, you can see the layers. That depth of grab in the starting hole, wow 
This isn't an issue with the jig. |
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Posted: 1/13/2019 7:15:01 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Whole lotta WOW going on here. I'm going with way to deep settings and lack of clamping force on the router's depth adjustment. Left side above safety, deep side cut? Individual passes not lining up with the next, you can see the layers. That depth of grab in the starting hole, wow
This isn't an issue with the jig. I don't think there is a lack of clamping force on the depth adjustment. Also from the photo, does it appear the router plate is installed correctly on the router ? I am not sure, it appears to be as good as it gets but I was not comfortable with it. I don't think that has anything to do with the problem, but I want to ensure I had it right as well. It should be secured by four screws, but they will only line up for two.I don't understand why, the Makita is the #2 recommend router. |
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Posted: 1/13/2019 7:38:06 PM EDT
[#42]
Hold the base, not the router, keeps you from rocking it, keeps more stabilization.
Load pocket with wd40, last long enough to finish one pass. Blow out lower, jig plate, base plate in between ever cut so you are not setting base on jig with debris in between. |
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Posted: 1/13/2019 7:42:25 PM EDT
[#43]
There are other bits that will work in the mount for the router bit, another guy found some on Ebay.
I am confused, it looks as if a combination of speed, depth and not holding firm caused it to jump. I do know the combination works, but it also takes a feel to get the hang of it, high speed, to deep and to fast will cause what happened to you. Rick, I am sure that lower can be salvaged, but you are going to need to get a new bit for it., you have to heat the holder, pull the old bit and heat and install the new bit.. If I knew where you were in WY I could probably be talked into giving you a hand at learning this process, don't get discouraged, it takes a bit of learning to do this. |
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Posted: 1/13/2019 7:47:49 PM EDT
[#44]
Those screws holding you base to router do not look like included screws.
They look counter sunk, which will throw it off. To center base, install ready mill and set base on router an adjust to near maximum depth so that the collar on the ready mill bit is extending into the bearing in the base plate. This centers tell base plate, then just eyeball for square and snug up the 4 screws(pan head screws) |
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Posted: 1/13/2019 8:01:03 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hold the base, not the router, keeps you from rocking it, keeps more stabilization. Load pocket with wd40, last long enough to finish one pass. Blow out lower, jig plate, base plate in between ever cut so you are not setting base on jig with debris in between. I had been vacuuming it out, as well pretty regular. |
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Posted: 1/13/2019 8:02:35 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Those screws holding you base to router do not look like included screws. They look counter sunk, which will throw it off. To center base, install ready mill and set base on router an adjust to near maximum depth so that the collar on the ready mill bit is extending into the bearing in the base plate. This centers tell base plate, then just eyeball for square and snug up the 4 screws(pan head screws) |
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Posted: 1/13/2019 8:07:44 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How? There is no way to mount it like that on the makita router, there is no way to mount 4 screws and the included ones from 5d are too short. As for wd40, just a nice layer over entire bottom, yes it will run down pilot hole, but I always had plenty in pocket when done with a pass. |
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Posted: 1/13/2019 8:08:16 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There are other bits that will work in the mount for the router bit, another guy found some on Ebay. I am confused, it looks as if a combination of speed, depth and not holding firm caused it to jump. I do know the combination works, but it also takes a feel to get the hang of it, high speed, to deep and to fast will cause what happened to you. Rick, I am sure that lower can be salvaged, but you are going to need to get a new bit for it., you have to heat the holder, pull the old bit and heat and install the new bit.. If I knew where you were in WY I could probably be talked into giving you a hand at learning this process, don't get discouraged, it takes a bit of learning to do this. I don't mind investing some time, but I don't want throw away too much money. I probably just wasted 100 bucks between the lower and ready mill this afternoon. But I'll order another I guess, not going to give up yet. My main concern is mounting the router plate to router, something seems off. The included screw are too short. |
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Posted: 1/13/2019 8:55:45 PM EDT
[#49]
I’m with DaveP1 & CRracer_712 on this,
First, it sure APPEARS from one of your photos that the router jumped several times. Go SLOW! Circular CLOCKWISE cuts Try half depth cuts Vacuum chips out that remain before starting the next cut. EVERYTIME you adjust the depth, spray lube in the pocket and on the mill bit. EVERYTIME! Firmly hold the BASE when making cuts. Make sure that when you start the router it’s not touching anything and again you are FIRMLY holding the base down Let the router COMPLETELY come to a stop before removing it Quoted:
There is no way to mount it like that on the makita router, there is no way to mount 4 screws and the included ones from 5d are too short. 
@wyomingnick |
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Posted: 1/13/2019 9:49:34 PM EDT
[#50]
Damn double tap
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