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Posted: 5/19/2020 9:24:08 PM EDT
[#1]
I use Wipe-Out Brushless Foaming Bore Cleaning Solvent, then water, blow out with air and shoot.
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Posted: 5/20/2020 3:04:51 AM EDT
[#2]
I've had customers who swear by Ed's Red as a 22LR overnight soak cleaning solution for sealed cans.
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Posted: 5/20/2020 11:06:59 AM EDT
[#3]
I shoot 1000s of .22lrs out of my upper. I have a lot of fun with them but always shoot full powered ammo out of it before going home. I run a bore snake through it prior to switching back to full powered 5.56 ammo. I always eye ball the bore to make sure there is no obstruction.
I shoot the CCI Minimags with the copper plate and I also shoot the Federal Automatch boxes. Both ammo have been flawless. Except for the story below, I never had any issue with lead build up and I shoot 100s of rounds per session. Now I do have a leading story from a while back though. Back when I was shooting Tula ammo like crazy. One day I shot about 200 rounds of Tula, and wanted to shoot more. So I put in the conversion bolt and after shooting about 20-30 rounds suddenly the rounds started to shoot wildly in all directions. At 25 yards, it was hitting the ceiling, the side walls, etc. I immediately stopped and looked down the barrel. It was nearly completely clogged and luckily it was a indoor range and no one was injured. I tried to put a boresnake down and it would not drop in. I went home and had to clean for several days. At first even a cleaning rod would not go down the bore, I had to let solvent soak into it. Not sure what happened, but my guess is the bi-metal from Tulammo somehow shaved a lot of lead and built up in the bore. I was shooting automatch which is lead nose rounds. Afterwards I would always shoot .22lr first, before ever shooting .223/5.56 and never had the issue again. I also bore snake it prior to shooting full powered ammo and again nothing ever happened. |
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Posted: 5/20/2020 12:52:16 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dalle0001: I shoot 1000s of .22lrs out of my upper. I have a lot of fun with them but always shoot full powered ammo out of it before going home. I run a bore snake through it prior to switching back to full powered 5.56 ammo. I always eye ball the bore to make sure there is no obstruction. I shoot the CCI Minimags with the copper plate and I also shoot the Federal Automatch boxes. Both ammo have been flawless. Except for the story below, I never had any issue with lead build up and I shoot 100s of rounds per session. Now I do have a leading story from a while back though. Back when I was shooting Tula ammo like crazy. One day I shot about 200 rounds of Tula, and wanted to shoot more. So I put in the conversion bolt and after shooting about 20-30 rounds suddenly the rounds started to shoot wildly in all directions. At 25 yards, it was hitting the ceiling, the side walls, etc. I immediately stopped and looked down the barrel. It was nearly completely clogged and luckily it was a indoor range and no one was injured. I tried to put a boresnake down and it would not drop in. I went home and had to clean for several days. At first even a cleaning rod would not go down the bore, I had to let solvent soak into it. Not sure what happened, but my guess is the bi-metal from Tulammo somehow shaved a lot of lead and built up in the bore. I was shooting automatch which is lead nose rounds. Afterwards I would always shoot .22lr first, before ever shooting .223/5.56 and never had the issue again. I also bore snake it prior to shooting full powered ammo and again nothing ever happened. Thats wild! Was the can still hot internally enough to maybe "melt" the bare lead .22 a little? |
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Posted: 5/20/2020 9:41:33 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By boltedsafe: I use Wipe-Out Brushless Foaming Bore Cleaning Solvent, then water, blow out with air and shoot. That doesn’t say anything about removing head which, from what I understand, is the biggest issue with shooting rimfire in a center fire can. No experience personally though. OP, look into “the dip”. It’s hazardous and needs to be disposed of properly but I’ve read it works really well. |
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Posted: 5/21/2020 8:11:04 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By socommatthews: That doesn’t say anything about removing head which, from what I understand, is the biggest issue with shooting rimfire in a center fire can. No experience personally though. OP, look into “the dip”. It’s hazardous and needs to be disposed of properly but I’ve read it works really well. 22 suppressor I have is the mono core type with the clam shells over it. It has lead build up on the inside of the clam shells halves after only a little bit of shooting. I have not found anything yet that easily removes the lead without hard scrubbing also. No way I will shoot 22lr through my sealed 223 can. I also have a very old style 22lr can with the copper mesh filler and end wipe. I have sealed it and soaked it with every product I could find that would not eat up the tube and internals but the mesh is hopelessly clogged and useless. |
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Posted: 5/24/2020 3:27:35 AM EDT
[#7]
The only thing that would clean mine is the dip. Be very careful. Creates lead acetate that will absorb through your skin. Dipose of properly with hazardous materials collection. 50/50 white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide.
Use at your own risk. Can damage aluminum or finishes and will damage you if mishandled. You can probably get more info in the suppressor forum. |
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Posted: 5/24/2020 7:35:55 AM EDT
[#8]
Try using the CCI "Clean" LINK
Should prevent the lead build up. I think the only way to get lead out of a sealed can is "the dip" mentioned above. I've never used it as it does seem pretty hazardous. If you already have fouled you can, you may want to dip it once, and then use the coated ammo to prevent further build up. |
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Posted: 5/24/2020 12:08:21 PM EDT
[#9]
When teaching Armorer courses, we cover suppressor issues and maintenance on the weapons systems. Suppressed guns have more fouling, no surprise as the suppressor reducing the amount of gas pressure that leaves the front end of the weapons system.
Cleaning can differ slightly depending upon the weapon and suppressor, as some weapons systems allow you to disassemble things further and easier as compared to others. An example is that on the gas impingement vs piston systems. On the traditional gas impingement AR15 you can remove the bolt and remove fouling from the tail of the bolt and inside of the bolt carrier. On the gas system you do not remove the gas tube or put anything inside of a gas tube ever imho as you will cause issues a plug the gas system. Where on a piston system AR15 type weapon (to include weapons like the M1 Garand's and M14/M1A's) where you can remove the piston from the piston block (gas block, or gas cylinder), and then disassemble the piston. Then you can clean and scrape the inside and outside of both the piston and piston block. The same thing applies on suppressors, as there are some suppressors that are a fixed can, where some others can be disassembled to a point, and some suppressors like many of the .22 allow you to remove the suppressor cylinders and baffle stack. What we use and recommend in Armorer courses for cleaning is to simply soak the suppressor or parts in Slip2000's Carbon Killer. It comes conveniently packaged in a jar, which allows you to drop a suppressor or parts into it for soaking. After soaking, give the parts a scrub with a brush, then we rinse at the sink with hot water and watch the fouling rinse away, a pot of boiling water can be used if you wish for the water to evaporate when you remove the gun parts, then you can blow things out with an air compressor or if you wish drop the parts into a container of denatured alcohol as the alcohol will remove out all water/oil, and evaporate quickly from the part when exposed to air. The Carbon Killer won't cause issues with the metal, anodizing, or phosphate/parkerized finishes.  https://www.slip2000.com/blog/...-were-hard-to-clean/ https://www.slip2000.com/slip2000_carbon_killer.php CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" SLR15 Rifles DefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 |
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Posted: 5/27/2020 9:06:37 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thats wild! Was the can still hot internally enough to maybe "melt" the bare lead .22 a little? I doubt a .22lr would ever get a can hot enough. I'm guessing the Tula ammo left something in the barrel that maybe shaved off the .22lr. All I know is I can shoot .22lr all day long, and the barrel will be clean. I'm guessing there's something about the tul ammo that is off. I never really shot steel ammo again since it shot my barrel out as well. |
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