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Posted: 9/4/2019 9:42:24 AM EDT
[#1]
Quoted: The last one I did several years ago was done with a dab of blue Loctite and snugged down by hand, no torque wrench. No issues with it to date... 
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Posted: 9/4/2019 9:52:15 AM EDT
[#2]
Good n tight with the wrench then stake. A little dab of grease on the receiver extension threads and castle nut before to make sure it tightens down proper.
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Posted: 9/4/2019 9:53:38 AM EDT
[#3]
https://www.primaryweapons.com/product-url-6669
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Posted: 9/4/2019 10:02:57 AM EDT
[#4]
Do you stake or loc-tite a barrel nut? Tighten it down and shoot away.
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Posted: 9/4/2019 10:13:53 AM EDT
[#5]
I tighten and call it a day.
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Posted: 9/4/2019 10:18:02 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Do you stake or loc-tite a barrel nut? Tighten it down and shoot away. |
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Posted: 9/4/2019 10:18:46 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Do you stake or loc-tite a barrel nut? Tighten it down and shoot away. Built a couple YHM handguarded pistols, and they hit the minimum torque spec and just lined up. Both of them came loose in the field. I quit using aluminum barrel nuts, or if I have to use one, they get a minimum of 50lb's now. I have had several castle nuts loosen in the field on early builds. That ended when I started using one drop of blue loctite. I bought an automatic center punch and now I stake them. What you do with a barrel nut doesn't mean a thing. What can happen, and does happen, matters much more. |
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Posted: 9/4/2019 11:49:57 AM EDT
[#8]
I tighten hand tight by feel with a castle nut wrench with purple Loctite (actually usually Vibra-TITE brand purple equivalent) and then test fire a few mags to be sure and then stake it in addition to the Loctite and take cell phone video showing me staking it with a good close up of exactly the position it was in when staked and serial number of the receiver. I'm peranoid that a crooked cop will remove my pistol specific tubes and replace with M4 extension and stock and claim I had an unregistered SBR.
But then considering there has already been a case where crooked law enforcement has already tried that on some and got caught doing it (how many times did they not get caught?). Well, if they really are out to get you then your not peranoid. For actual rifle builds, I just use the purple thread locker and don't bother staking. Still make video to show proper rifle length upper installed on rifle lower. All cell phone video clips saved on a couple air-gapped non-networked computers. |
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Posted: 9/4/2019 11:52:49 AM EDT
[#9]
Drop of blue loctite on receiver extension and castle nut, tighten castle nut to one grunt, stake.
The PWS castle nut is neat, but $30 is a but much for me. I'd rather spend the money on ammo. |
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Posted: 9/4/2019 11:53:11 AM EDT
[#10]
torque to spec and stake. Every reputable company LMT, Colt, BCM except knights does this. Knights has their process figured out and i trust their process, but if i am doing a build it is staked with an auto center punch. Really easy and Harbor Freight sales for cheap
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Posted: 9/4/2019 11:55:20 AM EDT
[#11]
Stake it. It takes two seconds and you never have to think about it again.
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Posted: 9/4/2019 11:56:55 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I tighten and call it a day. |
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Posted: 9/4/2019 1:02:08 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I tighten hand tight by feel with a castle nut wrench with purple Loctite (actually usually Vibra-TITE brand purple equivalent) and then test fire a few mags to be sure and then stake it in addition to the Loctite and take cell phone video showing me staking it with a good close up of exactly the position it was in when staked and serial number of the receiver. I'm peranoid that a crooked cop will remove my pistol specific tubes and replace with M4 extension and stock and claim I had an unregistered SBR. But then considering there has already been a case where crooked law enforcement has already tried that on some and got caught doing it (how many times did they not get caught?). Well, if they really are out to get you then your not peranoid. For actual rifle builds, I just use the purple thread locker and don't bother staking. Still make video to show proper rifle length upper installed on rifle lower. All cell phone video clips saved on a couple air-gapped non-networked computers. |
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Posted: 9/4/2019 4:38:48 PM EDT
[#14]
Neither,tighten to 40 ft lbs. never had a castle nut come loose!
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Posted: 9/4/2019 5:11:41 PM EDT
[#15]
I use a torque wrench but don't tighten it to milspec standards, makes it easier to disassemble later if I ever need to, and its never been an issue for me..
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Posted: 9/4/2019 5:24:55 PM EDT
[#16]
Tighten and then stake.
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Posted: 9/4/2019 6:42:45 PM EDT
[#17]
Torque and stake. No loctite needed.
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Posted: 9/4/2019 6:56:50 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
https://www.primaryweapons.com/product-url-6669 |
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Posted: 9/4/2019 7:08:09 PM EDT
[#19]
Get 3.
I tq, loctite and stake. I had my first build come loose. Never again. |
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Posted: 9/4/2019 9:42:40 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I tighten hand tight by feel with a castle nut wrench with purple Loctite (actually usually Vibra-TITE brand purple equivalent) and then test fire a few mags to be sure and then stake it in addition to the Loctite and take cell phone video showing me staking it with a good close up of exactly the position it was in when staked and serial number of the receiver. I'm peranoid that a crooked cop will remove my pistol specific tubes and replace with M4 extension and stock and claim I had an unregistered SBR. But then considering there has already been a case where crooked law enforcement has already tried that on some and got caught doing it (how many times did they not get caught?). Well, if they really are out to get you then your not peranoid. For actual rifle builds, I just use the purple thread locker and don't bother staking. Still make video to show proper rifle length upper installed on rifle lower. All cell phone video clips saved on a couple air-gapped non-networked computers. 
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Posted: 9/4/2019 10:32:29 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I tighten hand tight by feel with a castle nut wrench with purple Loctite (actually usually Vibra-TITE brand purple equivalent) and then test fire a few mags to be sure and then stake it in addition to the Loctite and take cell phone video showing me staking it with a good close up of exactly the position it was in when staked and serial number of the receiver. I'm peranoid that a crooked cop will remove my pistol specific tubes and replace with M4 extension and stock and claim I had an unregistered SBR. But then considering there has already been a case where crooked law enforcement has already tried that on some and got caught doing it (how many times did they not get caught?). Well, if they really are out to get you then your not peranoid. For actual rifle builds, I just use the purple thread locker and don't bother staking. Still make video to show proper rifle length upper installed on rifle lower. All cell phone video clips saved on a couple air-gapped non-networked computers. 
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Posted: 9/4/2019 10:33:58 PM EDT
[#22]
doubletap
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Posted: 9/4/2019 10:37:22 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I tighten hand tight by feel with a castle nut wrench with purple Loctite (actually usually Vibra-TITE brand purple equivalent) and then test fire a few mags to be sure and then stake it in addition to the Loctite and take cell phone video showing me staking it with a good close up of exactly the position it was in when staked and serial number of the receiver. I'm peranoid that a crooked cop will remove my pistol specific tubes and replace with M4 extension and stock and claim I had an unregistered SBR. But then considering there has already been a case where crooked law enforcement has already tried that on some and got caught doing it (how many times did they not get caught?). Well, if they really are out to get you then your not peranoid. For actual rifle builds, I just use the purple thread locker and don't bother staking. Still make video to show proper rifle length upper installed on rifle lower. All cell phone video clips saved on a couple air-gapped non-networked computers. 
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Posted: 9/4/2019 11:05:06 PM EDT
[#24]
Crank it on down and then stake with an auto center punch. Has worked for me on numerous builds and I've never had one come loose.
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Posted: 9/4/2019 11:36:51 PM EDT
[#25]
@Tigwelder1971, @Hydra-shokz, @FALARAK, @-Obsessed-, & Anyone Else
Not only that but after I am sure I am going to keep a rifle upper and rifle lower together I slip a properly sized washer over the left side tip of the front pivot pin and do a couple of small weld tacks between the tip of the pivot pin and the washer so the upper and lower can't be separated from each other without grinding out those welds in order to remove the washer in order to be able to snap the pin over and separate upper and lower. Rear pin is stock so you can still pop over and hinge open to clear any malfunction, or clean, or do other maintenance. And yes I take video clips of those welded on washers with close ups of the welds and serial numbers and store those as well. For the rifle lowers I want to swap rifle uppers around on, I have several longer LR-308 front pivot pins that are longer and stick out that I have drilled through to allow the smallest size little MasterLock padlock to be used on the left side of the pivot pin so that the padlock must be removed with proper key to separate upper from lower. I have had a couple close calls with crooked cops on non-gun stuff in the past one of which only the fact I had bicycle helmet camera video saved me in court. Plus a not so fun incident we're someone who had a grudge against me (suspect local officer who was shown to have perjured himself in court from my helmet camera video and who knows I have a bunch of guns) made BS complaint against me to ATF and I had to deal with them. Fool me once, shame on you - Fool me twice, shame on me. P.S. - I also use green bearing sleeve locker on my rifle length uppers barrel nuts on my uppers once I am sure I like the barrel, that stuff is so strong the aluminum of the barrel nut or upper receiver will give before it does. Preventing swapping in a short barrel as a way around my other precautions. |
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Posted: 9/4/2019 11:57:40 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
@Tigwelder1971, @Hydra-shokz, @FALARAK, @-Obsessed-, & Anyone Else Not only that but after I am sure I am going to keep a rifle upper and rifle lower together I slip a properly sized washer over the left side tip of the front pivot pin and do a couple of small weld tacks between the tip of the pivot pin and the washer so the upper and lower can't be separated from each other without grinding out those welds in order to remove the washer in order to be able to snap the pin over and separate upper and lower. Rear pin is stock so you can still pop over and hinge open to clear any malfunction, or clean, or do other maintenance. And yes I take video clips of those welded on washers with close ups of the welds and serial numbers and store those as well. For the rifle lowers I want to swap rifle uppers around on, I have several longer LR-308 front pivot pins that are longer and stick out that I have drilled through to allow the smallest size little MasterLock padlock to be used on the left side of the pivot pin so that the padlock must be removed with proper key to separate upper from lower. I have had a couple close calls with crooked cops on non-gun stuff in the past one of which only the fact I had bicycle helmet camera video saved me in court. Plus a not so fun incident we're someone who had a grudge against me (suspect local officer who was shown to have perjured himself in court from my helmet camera video and who knows I have a bunch of guns) made BS complaint against me to ATF and I had to deal with them. Fool me once, shame on you - Fool me twice, shame on me. P.S. - I also use green bearing sleeve locker on my rifle length uppers barrel nuts on my uppers once I am sure I like the barrel, that stuff is so strong the aluminum of the barrel nut or upper receiver will give before it does. Preventing swapping in a short barrel as a way around my other precautions.
Seems a hell of a lot easier than all the BS you seem to be concerned about. This applies only if you're not trolling, though, as there doesn't seem to be much logic in your thought process. |
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Posted: 9/4/2019 11:58:37 PM EDT
[#27]
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Posted: 9/5/2019 12:00:48 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
torque to spec and stake. Every reputable company LMT, Colt, BCM except knights does this. Knights has their process figured out and i trust their process, but if i am doing a build it is staked with an auto center punch. Really easy and Harbor Freight sales for cheap Torque and stake. Every good company uses torque specs. |
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Posted: 9/5/2019 12:08:13 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote History |
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Posted: 9/5/2019 12:18:23 AM EDT
[#30]
snug it up with the wrench I have and call it a day.
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Posted: 9/5/2019 12:18:57 AM EDT
[#31]
It's always a good time when the "well it's never happened before" crowd gets out and start warming their guns up. Torque and stake is required.
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Posted: 9/5/2019 12:19:26 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If you really think these "crooked cops" are going to go through all the trouble to swap uppers/barrels/etc. around to pin an unregistered SBR charge on you, what's to stop them from building an SBR out of an 80% lower and just saying they seized it from you? Or even worse, just planting some drugs on your person/vehicle and then arresting you over it?
Seems a hell of a lot easier than all the BS you seem to be concerned about. This applies only if you're not trolling, though, as there doesn't seem to be much logic in your thought process. |
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Posted: 9/5/2019 4:48:01 AM EDT
[#33]
Other than one I use as a test rig, I torque and stake.
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Posted: 9/5/2019 5:54:57 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
@Tigwelder1971, @Hydra-shokz, @FALARAK, @-Obsessed-, & Anyone Else Not only that but after I am sure I am going to keep a rifle upper and rifle lower together I slip a properly sized washer over the left side tip of the front pivot pin and do a couple of small weld tacks between the tip of the pivot pin and the washer so the upper and lower can't be separated from each other without grinding out those welds in order to remove the washer in order to be able to snap the pin over and separate upper and lower. Rear pin is stock so you can still pop over and hinge open to clear any malfunction, or clean, or do other maintenance. And yes I take video clips of those welded on washers with close ups of the welds and serial numbers and store those as well. For the rifle lowers I want to swap rifle uppers around on, I have several longer LR-308 front pivot pins that are longer and stick out that I have drilled through to allow the smallest size little MasterLock padlock to be used on the left side of the pivot pin so that the padlock must be removed with proper key to separate upper from lower. I have had a couple close calls with crooked cops on non-gun stuff in the past one of which only the fact I had bicycle helmet camera video saved me in court. Plus a not so fun incident we're someone who had a grudge against me (suspect local officer who was shown to have perjured himself in court from my helmet camera video and who knows I have a bunch of guns) made BS complaint against me to ATF and I had to deal with them. Fool me once, shame on you - Fool me twice, shame on me. P.S. - I also use green bearing sleeve locker on my rifle length uppers barrel nuts on my uppers once I am sure I like the barrel, that stuff is so strong the aluminum of the barrel nut or upper receiver will give before it does. Preventing swapping in a short barrel as a way around my other precautions.
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Posted: 9/5/2019 6:08:50 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
@Tigwelder1971, @Hydra-shokz, @FALARAK, @-Obsessed-, & Anyone Else Not only that but after I am sure I am going to keep a rifle upper and rifle lower together I slip a properly sized washer over the left side tip of the front pivot pin and do a couple of small weld tacks between the tip of the pivot pin and the washer so the upper and lower can't be separated from each other without grinding out those welds in order to remove the washer in order to be able to snap the pin over and separate upper and lower. Rear pin is stock so you can still pop over and hinge open to clear any malfunction, or clean, or do other maintenance. And yes I take video clips of those welded on washers with close ups of the welds and serial numbers and store those as well. For the rifle lowers I want to swap rifle uppers around on, I have several longer LR-308 front pivot pins that are longer and stick out that I have drilled through to allow the smallest size little MasterLock padlock to be used on the left side of the pivot pin so that the padlock must be removed with proper key to separate upper from lower. I have had a couple close calls with crooked cops on non-gun stuff in the past one of which only the fact I had bicycle helmet camera video saved me in court. Plus a not so fun incident we're someone who had a grudge against me (suspect local officer who was shown to have perjured himself in court from my helmet camera video and who knows I have a bunch of guns) made BS complaint against me to ATF and I had to deal with them. Fool me once, shame on you - Fool me twice, shame on me. P.S. - I also use green bearing sleeve locker on my rifle length uppers barrel nuts on my uppers once I am sure I like the barrel, that stuff is so strong the aluminum of the barrel nut or upper receiver will give before it does. Preventing swapping in a short barrel as a way around my other precautions. |
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Posted: 9/5/2019 6:16:53 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
https://www.primaryweapons.com/product-url-6669 |
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Posted: 9/5/2019 6:35:24 AM EDT
[#37]
I just twist it on by hand and then use a screwdriver and a hammer to get it tight.
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Posted: 9/5/2019 7:55:21 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's always a good time when the "well it's never happened before" crowd gets out and start warming their guns up. Torque and stake is required. |
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Posted: 9/5/2019 8:17:29 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
@kaik 
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Posted: 9/5/2019 11:48:41 AM EDT
[#40]
Have seen a couple of post over the years where ones with thread locker twisted the tube and eat the tube threads when it was removed. Nut was glued to strong to the tube and it turned with the nut.
I put them on now the way the TM says with a little grease and a torque wrench. I still do not stake them because I have never had one come loose on the new style nuts and wrench. The older nuts with the two holes used to loosen up because there were no good spanner wrenches available years ago to tighten them enough. |
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Posted: 9/5/2019 11:48:43 AM EDT
[#41]
Grease the threads and tighten to spec.
I have never had one come loose, but I would stake if the weapon was going to see hard use. |
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Posted: 9/5/2019 11:57:23 AM EDT
[#42]
Lube, tighten and staked my S.D. carbine, everything else just grease n tighten.
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Posted: 9/5/2019 1:21:29 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
@Tigwelder1971, @Hydra-shokz, @FALARAK, @-Obsessed-, & Anyone Else Not only that but after I am sure I am going to keep a rifle upper and rifle lower together I slip a properly sized washer over the left side tip of the front pivot pin and do a couple of small weld tacks between the tip of the pivot pin and the washer so the upper and lower can't be separated from each other without grinding out those welds in order to remove the washer in order to be able to snap the pin over and separate upper and lower. Rear pin is stock so you can still pop over and hinge open to clear any malfunction, or clean, or do other maintenance. And yes I take video clips of those welded on washers with close ups of the welds and serial numbers and store those as well. For the rifle lowers I want to swap rifle uppers around on, I have several longer LR-308 front pivot pins that are longer and stick out that I have drilled through to allow the smallest size little MasterLock padlock to be used on the left side of the pivot pin so that the padlock must be removed with proper key to separate upper from lower. I have had a couple close calls with crooked cops on non-gun stuff in the past one of which only the fact I had bicycle helmet camera video saved me in court. Plus a not so fun incident we're someone who had a grudge against me (suspect local officer who was shown to have perjured himself in court from my helmet camera video and who knows I have a bunch of guns) made BS complaint against me to ATF and I had to deal with them. Fool me once, shame on you - Fool me twice, shame on me. P.S. - I also use green bearing sleeve locker on my rifle length uppers barrel nuts on my uppers once I am sure I like the barrel, that stuff is so strong the aluminum of the barrel nut or upper receiver will give before it does. Preventing swapping in a short barrel as a way around my other precautions. |
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Posted: 9/5/2019 2:28:13 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
None of it will matter when they "find" that ounce of blow tucked in your gun safe.
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Posted: 9/5/2019 2:41:47 PM EDT
[#45]
Staking is pretty easy and it doesn't need to a freakin' crater,...so why wouldn't you?
 Attached File |
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Posted: 9/5/2019 3:06:59 PM EDT
[#46]
I use an old flat chisel to stake. Clean and easy.
For the record, I've seen at least three castle nuts come loose while shooting carbine matches. I keep a cheap wrench in my bag for those, admittedly rare, occasions. |
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Posted: 9/5/2019 11:37:26 PM EDT
[#47]
whether I stake or not, I use loctite inside the receiver for the buffer tube threads. I have had multiple tubes ruined when removing a castle nut (without any thread fastener) and it turns the tube along with the nut and the tube threads get damaged by the indexing pin.
the tube itself has a ton of gripping surface and with a little heat, its easy to remove the tube from the receiver by hand, its only blue loctite. I think the fastening system for the buffer tube is the weakest part of the AR system and I have tried a couple aftermarket solutions. The original PWS tube setup was by far the best, expensive as hell, but the best. But again for a military issue gun where an armorer can chuck in the shredder and get another one for $500, not so much of an issue. |
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Posted: 9/6/2019 2:58:03 PM EDT
[#48]
This thread is dumb.
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Posted: 9/6/2019 3:41:17 PM EDT
[#49]
I stake castle nuts now because I had one come loose on a 6.8 SPC
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Posted: 9/6/2019 6:05:43 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This thread is dumb. |
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