User Panel
Posted: 2/15/2020 12:08:53 PM EDT
For what they’re claiming on their parts, the prices seem almost too good to be true.
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For what they’re claiming on their parts, the prices seem almost too good to be true. View Quote I have bought some of the ELG lower parts kits and they were no problem. Since the cheaper lower kit is not marked as all US parts I have not purchased any of those. I do cull parts out of different vendors kits for my own reasons like pin or spring preference sometimes even though the other parts might be 100% functional. I did contact them once by email and received a quick response and good customer service which was nice. |
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I bought one of their LPK through right to bear and when it showed up the bolt catch was broken. the ear or pad you depress to release the bolt was broken off before finish was applied and nobody in QC caught it. right to bear said they would take care of me if unbranded didn't replace it. the company that owns the unbranded line did contact me pretty quick and said they wanted the whole kit back because it must not of ben inspected. I sent it in and a week or so later had a new kit but it sits in my parts bin since I really don't trust it completely. I bought a better quality more expensive kit locally and used it. it put my build behind by a couple of weeks and I chalked it up to lesson learned, you get what you pay for.
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For what they're claiming on their parts, the prices seem almost too good to be true. View Quote I wouldn't be shocked if they're the direct to customer manufacturer who's able to cut out the middle man to keep prices lower. I can see a few things on their website that you would be 100% safe to order, and other things that I'd probably avoid until I had a conversation with their customer service people to find out more about their warranty and how they handle RMA's. |
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I bought their 45 ACP/10 MM stripped lower as well as several other parts about a year ago. No issues or problems with any of their stuff. I have a lpk coming in later this week. They have been okay to deal with from my perspective.
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I don't know about the particular vendor you're referring to but I bought an unbranded complete upper from CDNN and the upper was so far out of spec it wouldn't even attach to any lower I have. So far, I've been unsuccessful in getting a refund for the upper and this is the key point and tie-in to the OP's question.
I don't know who makes all the internals we buy for building an AR but I suspect there are actually very few factories, perhaps none in the US, making those parts for retail. I suspect that when we get a branded set of parts we're really just getting a better selection of junk from the same factories - but the brand name we know, and hopefully trust, will stand behind their parts and that's why I will never buy unbranded parts from anyone and consider whether I should buy anything from companies who don't stand behind what they sell - even if unbranded. |
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I bought one last year from aim surplus, no problems here. Nothing special but it was cheap and it has worked well so far. I wouldn't hesitate buying another
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I bought some of their small parts like the extractor back during the holiday sale and the parts then were fine. Bought a couple of the blemished bolts also.
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I got a few of the ultra cheap LPK's, they looked fine during inspection. Haven't used any yet.
I also got a couple of their free float handguards. Surprisingly nice! |
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The AR-15 Podcast has interviewed the Unbranded guys at least once.
https://www.stitcher.com/s?eid=57874519&refid=asa |
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I bought two of their 15" V4 MLOK handguards to lighten up two ars.
I have installed one, but prior to that, tossed it on the scale and got 12 ounces total as opposed to the advertised 10.2 ounces advertised total weight. That's the only flaw I've found. I'm still pleased with them regardless. |
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I grabbed a handful of their "blem" C158 complete bolts for $20 to throw in the spare/shtf parts bin.
I'll have no idea if they are any good until it's too late |
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I don't know about the particular vendor you're referring to but I bought an unbranded complete upper from CDNN and the upper was so far out of spec it wouldn't even attach to any lower I have. So far, I've been unsuccessful in getting a refund for the upper and this is the key point and tie-in to the OP's question. I don't know who makes all the internals we buy for building an AR but I suspect there are actually very few factories, perhaps none in the US, making those parts for retail. I suspect that when we get a branded set of parts we're really just getting a better selection of junk from the same factories - but the brand name we know, and hopefully trust, will stand behind their parts and that's why I will never buy unbranded parts from anyone and consider whether I should buy anything from companies who don't stand behind what they sell - even if unbranded. View Quote |
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I only have experience with their V4 15" hand guard. For about 68 shipped I can't fault it. Barrel nut doesn't need to be aligned with the gas tube. Finish matches my Aero upper well enough and is plenty solid for my purposes.
I'm not a high speed operator/ Instagram ninja so it works well for weekend range trips with my wife and the occasional carbine class. Shipping was fast and and they'll do custom engraving for an extra fee. |
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Bought a couple lpk's, plus a bunch of extra springs, detents, castle nuts, trigger guards, etc. One of the safety selectors were out of spec, so I contacted them about it. Took a couple tries but they eventually sent me a replacement and never asked for the other one back. FWIW when its in stock, they stock a tungsten weight if you're wanting to experiment with buffers for a pretty competitive price. I got the billet aluminum trigger guard on two occasions and there were two separate styles. This makes sense because according to their policy, they are a "clearing house" for a parent company known as ZRO Delta, or tactical, or something. Other companies give ZRO a spec of what they want in their components to conform to a certain style, just as long as the part is in spec of course. They (Unbranded) accumulate a lot of the overproduced components that ZRO makes and offer it to the consumer without a markup that ZRO charges in distribution to other companies. Therefore, UnbrandedAr is a sister/subsidiary of ZRO.
I really have no problem with the very common tidbits (like springs, detents, even end plates and castle nuts) that they have in stock. Yep they also produce triggers and other stuff too, but people get very personal about the more critical parts like triggers, bolts, etc. So I stock up on their little things mostly. You could see what they have to offer and compare it to what others charge for at least the little pieces. |
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Bought one of their LPKs. Long story short it was dangerous garbage and went back.
https://imgur.com/a/7ueU9qr |
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HappyTrailz...just curious but was your trigger the basic fire control group or the ELT(enhanced longitudinal grind)? I ask because they mention the ELT as being the premium line made in USA and other kit as having outsourced parts potentially. For mil spec triggers I think I will roll with PSA ept or Right to Bears, which I think may come from Schmid Tool from where I have read.
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HappyTrailz...just curious but was your trigger the basic fire control group or the ELT(enhanced longitudinal grind)? I ask because they mention the ELT as being the premium line made in USA and other kit as having outsourced parts potentially. For mil spec triggers I think I will roll with PSA ept or Right to Bears, which I think may come from Schmid Tool from where I have read. View Quote |
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This threads kinda making me nervous. I bought several LPKs for future builds. Haven't even looked at them yet.
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The hammer pin sitting too far to one side can be the pin also. I got one once a while back from somewhere and the center groove was off to one side and made it sit off center in a hammer.
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So far not so good. I bought one LPK a month or two ago just to check out. For starters I just dropped the fcg into an existing build with known good parts, and have had issues with the trigger not resetting sometimes until I move the safety to 'safe'.
The other little pins, springs and detents look OK, bolt catch release and mag release seem fine too. I haven't contacted company or retailer yet so I wouldn't call this a full-fledged complaint just yet, but more a warning re: getting what you pay for. Here are a couple pics of the disconnector, a link to my thread in Troubleshooting - https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/Trigger-won-t-reset-until-I-engage-safety/66-748366/ Attached File And it's shorter than another disco I had laying around, you can see the difference when laid on top of a known good one - Attached File |
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I’ve seen many disconnectors that looked like that over the years.
Most disconnectors are stampings. |
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Gotcha, maybe the markings are par for the course. The fcg still doesn't work though
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I've built 4 and their parts kit were a huge pain in the ass, namely their trigger guard and pin. Have they worked so far? Ya. But I would go another direction if possible. I will say their ELG triggers are pretty nice for the price and what they are.
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HappyTrailz...just curious but was your trigger the basic fire control group or the ELT(enhanced longitudinal grind)? I ask because they mention the ELT as being the premium line made in USA and other kit as having outsourced parts potentially. For mil spec triggers I think I will roll with PSA ept or Right to Bears, which I think may come from Schmid Tool from where I have read. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
HappyTrailz...just curious but was your trigger the basic fire control group or the ELT(enhanced longitudinal grind)? I ask because they mention the ELT as being the premium line made in USA and other kit as having outsourced parts potentially. For mil spec triggers I think I will roll with PSA ept or Right to Bears, which I think may come from Schmid Tool from where I have read. Quoted:
The hammer pin sitting too far to one side can be the pin also. I got one once a while back from somewhere and the center groove was off to one side and made it sit off center in a hammer. Sometimes it's not worth trying to save $10 on a lower parts kit. The price is an indicator they're cutting costs somewhere. It's possible the problem has since been resolved, but idk, they've already lost any of my future business. |
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Quoted: I couldn't tell you. Mine came from Aim Surplus where they were listed as Unbranded AR Lower Parts Kits. I'd assume they're a basic kit. This happened the same time as the Unbranded AR spokesperson starting a brag thread about how nothing they sold was Chinese. Then I posted my photos and suddenly, everything they sell is made in the US except the kit I bought. Uhh yeah. Fuck that shit. PSA Classic LPKs are mostly Schmid parts and not that much more expensive. That still doesn't explain why the axis hole in the hammer is off kilter. Sometimes it's not worth trying to save $10 on a lower parts kit. The price is an indicator they're cutting costs somewhere. It's possible the problem has since been resolved, but idk, they've already lost any of my future business. View Quote |
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The only thing I’ve been “burned” on was I ordered six carbine receiver extension kits (6061 tube. Spring, buffer, receiver end plate, and Castile nut for $10.00 each.
Yeah I know, if the price is too good to be true..,, The receiver extensions are fine, the springs are too long, the buffers have a solid steel non-moving weight. |
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Just curious why you would post. You stated the fire control group worked fine testing it and hand cycling it? Was it one of the cheaper set or the ELG ones? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Gotcha, maybe the markings are par for the course. The fcg still doesn't work though OP asked if the price is too good to be true. I gave my experience with the one LPK I've gotten from them. I assume it was the cheaper set, can't remember it being listed as anything special and I tossed it in my cart on a whim when I was buying some other stuff precisely because it was so cheap and I was curious. Are you trying to say the trigger issue is user error or something? |
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So far not so good. I bought one LPK a month or two ago just to check out. For starters I just dropped the fcg into an existing build with known good parts, and have had issues with the trigger not resetting sometimes until I move the safety to 'safe'. The other little pins, springs and detents look OK, bolt catch release and mag release seem fine too. I haven't contacted company or retailer yet so I wouldn't call this a full-fledged complaint just yet, but more a warning re: getting what you pay for. Here are a couple pics of the disconnector, a link to my thread in Troubleshooting - https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/Trigger-won-t-reset-until-I-engage-safety/66-748366/ https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384595/IMG_20200215_131146_jpg-1284233.JPG And it's shorter than another disco I had laying around, you can see the difference when laid on top of a known good one - https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384595/IMG_20200215_133540_jpg-1284235.JPG View Quote They either have a serious problem with their blue prints or a damn serious problem with their stamping dies or they need to teach the chips how to read calipers and also to properly use a grinder. I think I'll stick to using PSA, CMMG and even RRA parts kits. |
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I don't understand the question. It has worked when hand cycling after I polished all surfaces extensively, but didn't work during the first time firing. Unfortunately I still haven't been able to live fire it since polishing because it's been too wet for me to get to my shooting spot (deep mud). OP asked if the price is too good to be true. I gave my experience with the one LPK I've gotten from them. I assume it was the cheaper set, can't remember it being listed as anything special and I tossed it in my cart on a whim when I was buying some other stuff precisely because it was so cheap and I was curious. Are you trying to say the trigger issue is user error or something? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
I don't understand the question. It has worked when hand cycling after I polished all surfaces extensively, but didn't work during the first time firing. Unfortunately I still haven't been able to live fire it since polishing because it's been too wet for me to get to my shooting spot (deep mud). OP asked if the price is too good to be true. I gave my experience with the one LPK I've gotten from them. I assume it was the cheaper set, can't remember it being listed as anything special and I tossed it in my cart on a whim when I was buying some other stuff precisely because it was so cheap and I was curious. Are you trying to say the trigger issue is user error or something? The fcg still doesn't work though There have been post over the years with problems similar with other FCGs to what you had posted in the other thread. If it is not the springs or a loose primer generally the cause never gets found or posted and I don't have anything to add to my notes. I did install a few ELG FCGs in a PSA lower to see if I could duplicate a similar problem but they all functioned fine. None of the disconnectors were the stamped type so I went through a few other vendors kits to find one like yours to use but it worked fine. The disconnectors like that are not uncommon and I have never had a problem with them. |
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No idea why you had a problem just remembered reading the post about it and that it was working when hand cycling then read this . There have been post over the years with problems similar with other FCGs to what you had posted in the other thread. If it is not the springs or a loose primer generally the cause never gets found or posted and I don't have anything to add to my notes. I did install a few ELG FCGs in a PSA lower to see if I could duplicate a similar problem but they all functioned fine. None of the disconnectors were the stamped type so I went through a few other vendors kits to find one like yours to use but it worked fine. The disconnectors like that are not uncommon and I have never had a problem with them. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I don't understand the question. It has worked when hand cycling after I polished all surfaces extensively, but didn't work during the first time firing. Unfortunately I still haven't been able to live fire it since polishing because it's been too wet for me to get to my shooting spot (deep mud). OP asked if the price is too good to be true. I gave my experience with the one LPK I've gotten from them. I assume it was the cheaper set, can't remember it being listed as anything special and I tossed it in my cart on a whim when I was buying some other stuff precisely because it was so cheap and I was curious. Are you trying to say the trigger issue is user error or something? The fcg still doesn't work though There have been post over the years with problems similar with other FCGs to what you had posted in the other thread. If it is not the springs or a loose primer generally the cause never gets found or posted and I don't have anything to add to my notes. I did install a few ELG FCGs in a PSA lower to see if I could duplicate a similar problem but they all functioned fine. None of the disconnectors were the stamped type so I went through a few other vendors kits to find one like yours to use but it worked fine. The disconnectors like that are not uncommon and I have never had a problem with them. What I'm certain of is I put thousands of rounds through the gun with no issues, then changed only the fcg and had problems with the trigger reset the first time I tried to shoot it. That's my one and only experience with an Unbranded LPK, which is what OP asked about. |
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Well, I just received an order of small parts from UnbrandedAR, everything I received appears nice and in spec.
One of the main items I was interested in was their Billet Extractor, at $5.42 it would be a bargain. Well it sure appears to be Billet! |
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Other than the safety feeling a bit mushy, I would put the ELG kit I just purchased as one of the better mil spec LPK's I've used.
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