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Posted: 2/8/2021 2:05:34 AM EDT
[#1]
Electro-etching, for one. Been covered here before, and also all over the youtubes.
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Posted: 2/13/2021 11:11:53 AM EDT
[#2]
Make a stencil and airbrush or spray paint is another option.
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Posted: 2/13/2021 1:31:41 PM EDT
[#3]
Why do you need to do "roll" marks? Isn't that used for when you have 1,000 pieces to do?
Instant roll marks.   If you want to engrave it, get a small 3D CAM etching table from banggood, you can then even swap the rotary head for a laser module. You then design whatever you want in CAD, then send that to the machine, etc. This was not the exact item I was looking at, but it gives you the idea. The head can be swapped out for 5/10/20watt laser heads (separate item buy). https://www.banggood.com/Upgraded-3018-Pro-Offline-CNC-Engraver-DIY-3Axis-GRBL-Laser-Engraving-Machine-Wood-Router-p-1616670.html?cur_warehouse=CN&rmmds=buy |
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Posted: 2/13/2021 2:31:03 PM EDT
[#4]
A roll mark REQUIRES a circular die that cost THOUSANDS of dollars! As stated, try etching or laser engraving. My ex boss had a Colt Gold Cup that had a crooked roll mark on the frame, Colt told him that they were getting a new die manufactured and it was $250,000.00
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Posted: 2/13/2021 3:21:29 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: A roll mark REQUIRES a circular die that cost THOUSANDS of dollars! As stated, try etching or laser engraving. My ex boss had a Colt Gold Cup that had a crooked roll mark on the frame, Colt told him that they were getting a new die manufactured and it was $250,000.00  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 2/13/2021 4:10:17 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryWhat’s up with missing portions of those? Ground off so they can’t be used? |
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Posted: 2/13/2021 4:43:35 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What’s up with missing portions of those? Ground off so they can’t be used? Quote HistoryQuoted: What’s up with missing portions of those? Ground off so they can’t be used? No expert.... I assume that the step is for indexing/alignment purposes. |
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Posted: 2/18/2021 12:56:25 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What’s up with missing portions of those? Ground off so they can’t be used? Raised portion on lower clearance |
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Posted: 2/18/2021 1:15:53 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What’s up with missing portions of those? Ground off so they can’t be used? Clearance for the raised portion of the receiver. [edit] beaten. 
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Posted: 2/18/2021 9:06:01 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted: Raised portion on lower clearance Quoted: Clearance for the raised portion of the receiver. [edit] beaten. Makes sense. |
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Posted: 2/18/2021 1:42:58 PM EDT
[#11]
Clearly shown together in one photo is the different horse trademarks. The globe touching the outer ring and the globe floated above the ring.
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Posted: 2/18/2021 1:54:11 PM EDT
[#12]
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Posted: 2/18/2021 3:52:18 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryNo need for volts or salt water. Qtip and sodium hydroxide (roebic) will etch AL fast. |
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Posted: 2/24/2021 3:24:04 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryJust got my order from him today.
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Posted: 2/24/2021 4:17:46 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Just got my order from him today. |
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Posted: 2/25/2021 10:33:21 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryI used one of his stencils about two weeks ago. It was my first time. I read examples from this site, and watched videos on YouTube on how to do this. I have more stencils ordered. 
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Posted: 2/25/2021 2:28:28 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I used one of his stencils about two weeks ago. It was my first time. I read examples from this site, and watched videos on YouTube on how to do this. I have more stencils ordered. https://i.imgur.com/VnQjRan.jpg Cool! Did you do all of it? What is the hole by the buffer tube threads for? |
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Posted: 2/25/2021 8:17:17 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Cool! Did you do all of it? What is the hole by the buffer tube threads for? |
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Posted: 2/26/2021 12:24:02 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Cool! Did you do all of it? What is the hole by the buffer tube threads for? Thanks. Yes, I did everything: re-profiled lower, machined fire control area, and salt water etched with stencils. DoubleARon is correct. It's for a roll pin that originally secured the receiver extension on the early rifles. |
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Posted: 2/26/2021 5:41:36 AM EDT
[#20]
I've had a mind for some time to try adding roll marks with my CNC router. Haven't actually done it yet but it should produce exceptionally accurate carvings in an aluminum receiver.
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Posted: 2/26/2021 7:38:09 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've had a mind for some time to try adding roll marks with my CNC router. Haven't actually done it yet but it should produce exceptionally accurate carvings in an aluminum receiver.  Attached File |
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Posted: 2/26/2021 7:39:09 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks. Yes, I did everything: re-profiled lower, machined fire control area, and salt water etched with stencils. DoubleARon is correct. It's for a roll pin that originally secured the receiver extension on the early rifles. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Cool! Did you do all of it? What is the hole by the buffer tube threads for? Thanks. Yes, I did everything: re-profiled lower, machined fire control area, and salt water etched with stencils. DoubleARon is correct. It's for a roll pin that originally secured the receiver extension on the early rifles. Wow, I thought staking the castle nut was overboard. |
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Posted: 3/14/2021 6:44:25 PM EDT
[#23]
My first attempt on a lower with a stencil set wasn't satisfactory. My power supply didn't have the amperage to make things happen. Discolored the metal but didn't really etch it. Picked up an older (ie not smart) 6/12v, 2/6a battery charger off Craigslist for 25 bucks and gave it another shot. There was no way to line up the stencil exactly over the other, but that will disappear when the receiver gets prepped and finished. Second attempt was pretty satisfactory.
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Posted: 3/15/2021 9:19:26 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My first attempt on a lower with a stencil set wasn't satisfactory. My power supply didn't have the amperage to make things happen. Discolored the metal but didn't really etch it. Picked up an older (ie not smart) 6/12v, 2/6a battery charger off Craigslist for 25 bucks and gave it another shot. There was no way to line up the stencil exactly over the other, but that will disappear when the receiver gets prepped and finished. Second attempt was pretty satisfactory. We'd still like to see it. |
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Posted: 3/15/2021 12:10:16 PM EDT
[#25]
Second try. More amps. More salt. You can faintly see the discoloration of the first attempt on the magwell. There's a joke in the serial number.
 Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 3/16/2021 12:22:09 AM EDT
[#26]
Looks like a great job to me!
Here's my latest one.  The 80% lower came with SAFE and SEMI already on the left side. |
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Posted: 3/28/2021 10:12:18 AM EDT
[#27]
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Posted: 3/28/2021 11:12:07 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: A roll mark REQUIRES a circular die that cost THOUSANDS of dollars! As stated, try etching or laser engraving. My ex boss had a Colt Gold Cup that had a crooked roll mark on the frame, Colt told him that they were getting a new die manufactured and it was $250,000.00 |
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Posted: 3/30/2021 1:00:01 PM EDT
[#29]
I screwed up my first one, and am thinking of how to do my other ones so they look better. These came out way light even after 2hrs of screwing around with a small trickle charger and Qtips.
DoubleA, wish I would have found your thread before this weekend. I was thinking about submerging the entire stencil via caulk or somesuch as well. Definitely going to do it now. On a side note, alumahyde came out better than expected. From 5ft away, it looks like a perfectly anodized lower. Slightly rougher upon closer inspection, but I like it.  |
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Posted: 4/1/2021 3:19:05 PM EDT
[#30]
I don’t see any stencils with the Horsey on the site ! Special order ?
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Posted: 4/1/2021 8:49:06 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I screwed up my first one, and am thinking of how to do my other ones so they look better. These came out way light even after 2hrs of screwing around with a small trickle charger and Qtips. DoubleA, wish I would have found your thread before this weekend. I was thinking about submerging the entire stencil via caulk or somesuch as well. Definitely going to do it now. On a side note, alumahyde came out better than expected. From 5ft away, it looks like a perfectly anodized lower. Slightly rougher upon closer inspection, but I like it. https://i.ibb.co/v4tx2nW/6719-D12-A-C9-F1-4-BC1-ACCA-70571922473-C.jpg More amps. Many trickle chargers are 1/2 amp. I had good luck with a 2a charger on an old, fully charged motorcycle battery. However, next time I try it will be with sodium hydroxide. |
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Posted: 4/1/2021 9:48:12 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I screwed up my first one, and am thinking of how to do my other ones so they look better. These came out way light even after 2hrs of screwing around with a small trickle charger and Qtips. DoubleA, wish I would have found your thread before this weekend. I was thinking about submerging the entire stencil via caulk or somesuch as well. Definitely going to do it now. On a side note, alumahyde came out better than expected. From 5ft away, it looks like a perfectly anodized lower. Slightly rougher upon closer inspection, but I like it. https://i.ibb.co/v4tx2nW/6719-D12-A-C9-F1-4-BC1-ACCA-70571922473-C.jpg |
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Posted: 4/1/2021 11:51:22 PM EDT
[#33]
I use a car battery charger that has settings for 2amp low charge, 10amp fast charge, and 55amp start. I first used the 2amp, but now consistantly use the 10amp setting when ecthing a receiver. I also use a white vinegar and salt mix. I have gotten better and faster results with puddles in hot-glue formed reservoirs.
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Posted: 4/3/2021 3:43:31 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I don't see any stencils with the Horsey on the site ! Special order ? I started with a 9v battery like the YouTube videos showed. Switched to my Milwaukee M18's, then found my trickle charger. It worked better than the others, but it was still very slow. About an hour in I started getting impatient and frustrated, so I discovered that you could puddle the solution and do several letters at the same time. That worked better, but the q-tips disintegrated faster. It is just deep enough to read, but not deep enough for me to be happy with. I did it as a tribute to my brother's tour in Afghanistan. I might end up reordering the same stencil, or sending it out to an engraver. More practice and the battery charger method with the other stencils I ordered should help immensely. I just finished up another 80% today, so I want to run to harbor freight and see if I can get a cheap battery charger and do it that way. I already have one, but it's a smart one. |
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Posted: 4/3/2021 4:58:58 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: A roll mark REQUIRES a circular die that cost THOUSANDS of dollars! As stated, try etching or laser engraving. My ex boss had a Colt Gold Cup that had a crooked roll mark on the frame, Colt told him that they were getting a new die manufactured and it was $250,000.00 That's the price for a set of complex forging dies that you run in a 100 ton or larger press. Plain roll marking dies are pretty cheap. Used to work for Snap-On Tools at a small plant that did all the dogs and cats of the catalog - mostly low volume stuff. We could get roll marking dies for less than 1k to emboss all the different sockets we made. However, one of our sister plants in TN that ran a 300 ton press had die sets that were close to 250K, to rapidly produce wrenches. I also worked for a while in an aluminum can making plant, the dies on the front end of the process that produced aluminum cups at 200-300 strokes per minute on a 100 ton press were less than 100k. |
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Posted: 4/4/2021 2:51:58 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Here you go. @DoubleARon OP, you're getting great results with your method. I can understand your efforts to get the lettering aligned and uniform. A lot of people like their receivers "perfect". But, cloners like me look more for the receiver to look "authentic" rather than perfect. I don't mind if the lettering is not all crisp, sharp, and even depth. To me, this makes the markings look more like what the government got, and can even look closer to a roll marked receiver. I do put at least as much effort into the stencil's placement and orientation though. I also use Q-tips with the dammed puddle method because you can vary the depth slightly from one side to the other, to simulate the roll marked lettering as well. Please don't take this as criticism; keep doing what you're doing. I'm just trying to point out you can use the stenciling method to get different results. |
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