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ARC-Fire Talk (G$ trigger mod instructions inside) (Page 21 of 28)
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I installed my first ARC-Fire ambi with mil spec levers and a G$ G2S trigger in a stripped lower tonight. The trigger pull is as sweet as was promised. Outstanding. It took me about 3 tries to get the left side shaped correctly. I only took a little off at a time. I got so excited that I started building another stripped lower with the same FCG specs. I need to take it apart tomorrow night and round the left side of the trigger a little bit more. But, the semi position is glorious! ...In a not gay kind of way. Primary Arms has a sale on the G$ G2S for $119.99. Link to G2S trigger |
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Originally Posted By tortilla-flats: Apparently Brownells is doing a collaboration with Geissele for a Brownell's exclusive trigger. Minor change to manufacturing to allow a more friendly price point. One single stage trigger model and one 2-stage trigger model. I'm thinking this is good for easing the pain a bit in trying to cut up a G trigger. I got one of them Brownells Geissele G2S triggers from Brownells a little over a week ago when they were on sale for $112. It said Brownells version on the page but it came in a Geissele box and looked no different than any other Geissele G2S trigger. |
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Originally Posted By MarkSpecial: Yes it works with a Geissele trigger now with the blocking bar, but the rifle now sounds like somebody dropped a bunch of pennies inside. Pretty damn annoying. Im using the G$ Trigger and blocking bar but haven’t noticed anything like that… |
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Originally Posted By MarkSpecial: So you don't hear any rattling going on inside your AR? Im not sure how you can't hear that. The blocker bare is loose inside, which is making the rattling. I'm shaking my Mk18 with ARC-Fire, Geissele and lever blocker... I can hear a slight rattling from the ARC trip lever itself. Nothing at all from the lever blocker. The rattling of the sling hooks and buffer weights is louder than the trip lever. Methinks you're worried about a non issue.  " /> |
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Originally Posted By MarkSpecial: A non issue? Sure, a non issue if you don't mind hearing all that rattling going on inside your weapon. Is it going to affect the functioning, not likely. But seriously not something one would like to here. Sounds like you need properly secure it with the spring leg. Mess with that and I bet you get it to stop rattling. |
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Originally Posted By MarkSpecial: Yes it works with a Geissele trigger now with the blocking bar, but the rifle now sounds like somebody dropped a bunch of pennies inside. Pretty damn annoying. |
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Originally Posted By MarkSpecial: So you don't hear any rattling going on inside your AR? Im not sure how you can't hear that. The blocker bare is loose inside, which is making the rattling. If it bothers you that much you could 3d Print a plastic blocking bar or buy a cornfire polymer bar. Might lessen the rattle since they aren't metal. . |
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Keep that in mind when reading my comments:-)
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Originally Posted By MarkSpecial: So when you carry and more around your AR, you keep it still somehow? That the only way it will not rattle, at least mine is that way A bead of silicone sealant on the bottom and a couple dots on the side facing the receiver should stop any rattles. |
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Originally Posted By MarkSpecial: So when you carry and more around your AR, you keep it still somehow? That the only way it will not rattle, at least mine is that way You are special alright. |
"My friend, you would not tell with such high zest
To children ardent for some desperate glory,
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Pro patria mori." -Wilfred Owen
To children ardent for some desperate glory,
The old Lie: Dulce et decorum est
Pro patria mori." -Wilfred Owen
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Originally Posted By tortilla-flats: Slightly different subject. How is an ALG (milspec?) trigger cut? Mine goes straight back on both sides and the back end id closed off.  How to cut a trigger for a Super Safety |
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"If The Rules brought us to this, what use are they?"
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Originally Posted By cryo_tech: Does anyone know if ASD will mod a Geisssle tirgger you already have? I have like 4 of the thigns I want to do |
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Originally Posted By Wangstang: https://combatarmory.com/arc-fire-trigger-ambi-kit/ ARC50 code gets it to 200 with free shipping. Thanks! I was waiting too and ordered two instead using this code. Thinking picking up a dedicated pistol lower to drop this into. Other than checking for the shelf height anything else to consider? |
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Originally Posted By tortilla-flats: Super Safety has a video on how to cut this trigger. Just need to find a jig or template to cut that big ear off.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tFBmBl6AdgOriginally Posted By tortilla-flats: Originally Posted By tortilla-flats: Slightly different subject. How is an ALG (milspec?) trigger cut? Mine goes straight back on both sides and the back end id closed off. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tFBmBl6AdgI DID need a dremel tho. For something. I do need to upgrade the selector. I HATE ambi selectors. And a standard milspec looking hotdog selector would be preferable. |
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"If The Rules brought us to this, what use are they?"
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Just got my arc trigger in with their milspec trigger yesterday. Spikes lower, DD upper, spikes FA bcg I've tried two different hammers and disconnects. During function testing sometimes I'm getting a hammer release on the release on reset on semi, and on the third mode I'm just getting a locked up trigger. I'm at a loss at this point. Any ideas to get this to the range this weekend? Thanks. Also just noticed right after posting and messing with it more it does test normally in semi but frt is like a locked up trigger. |
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Originally Posted By kuhndog599: Just got my arc trigger in with their milspec trigger yesterday. Spikes lower, DD upper, spikes FA bcg I've tried two different hammers and disconnects. During function testing sometimes I'm getting a hammer release on the release on reset on semi, and on the third mode I'm just getting a locked up trigger. I'm at a loss at this point. Any ideas to get this to the range this weekend? Thanks. Also just noticed right after posting and messing with it more it does test normally in semi but frt is like a locked up trigger. FWIW, I had similar issues with the trigger that came with the arc Fire. I cut another mil spec trigger and it worked fine. Similarly a pre cut Giessele worked fine as well. I think the trigger they are sending with the unit is out of spec. |
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Nice. I sent an email. Rather just get what I need vs filing on something trying to get it to work and taking a smidge too much off. After reading their troubleshooting section it sounds like I just need to touch the round corner with some sandpaper. I'll give that a whirl tomorrow. I did screw up the tab (don't ask me how) on the primary selector while messing with it tonight. Guess I'll be buying some of their selectors now. |
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@ASDesigns Is there something you could do for those of us that don’t want the ambi look for clones? I’m thinking about buying one of these for an M16A2 clone, but I spent a lot of time and money making it 100% clone correct and I’d hate to just leave the lever off the right side. Even some kind of cap that’s held by a screw would be preferable to a slot and screw hole. |
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Originally Posted By Sputnik556: @ASDesigns Is there something you could do for those of us that don’t want the ambi look for clones? I’m thinking about buying one of these for an M16A2 clone, but I spent a lot of time and money making it 100% clone correct and I’d hate to just leave the lever off the right side. Even some kind of cap that’s held by a screw would be preferable to a slot and screw hole. Fill with JB weld, sand smooth and paint. |
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Originally Posted By Sputnik556: @ASDesigns Is there something you could do for those of us that don’t want the ambi look for clones? I’m thinking about buying one of these for an M16A2 clone, but I spent a lot of time and money making it 100% clone correct and I’d hate to just leave the lever off the right side. Even some kind of cap that’s held by a screw would be preferable to a slot and screw hole. If clone-correct look is your biggest concern, look instead at the AZ Regulator 3-position trigger instead - that's what I put on my M16 clone. The Atrius or Cornfire offer left-side only, near-milspec selectors too. |
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Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: If clone-correct look is your biggest concern, look instead at the AZ Regulator 3-position trigger instead - that's what I put on my M16 clone. The Atrius or Cornfire offer left-side only, near-milspec selectors too. Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: Originally Posted By Sputnik556: @ASDesigns Is there something you could do for those of us that don’t want the ambi look for clones? I’m thinking about buying one of these for an M16A2 clone, but I spent a lot of time and money making it 100% clone correct and I’d hate to just leave the lever off the right side. Even some kind of cap that’s held by a screw would be preferable to a slot and screw hole. If clone-correct look is your biggest concern, look instead at the AZ Regulator 3-position trigger instead - that's what I put on my M16 clone. The Atrius or Cornfire offer left-side only, near-milspec selectors too. I like the Atrius, but it's not near milspec at all. The Cornfire is close, but with a torx (now) screw holding it on. |
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Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: If clone-correct look is your biggest concern, look instead at the AZ Regulator 3-position trigger instead - that's what I put on my M16 clone. The Atrius or Cornfire offer left-side only, near-milspec selectors too. Will those work with the CARL 3 rd burst? For me it's about more than just look. |
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Originally Posted By maggiethecat: Will those work with the CARL 3 rd burst? For me it's about more than just look. Originally Posted By maggiethecat: Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: If clone-correct look is your biggest concern, look instead at the AZ Regulator 3-position trigger instead - that's what I put on my M16 clone. The Atrius or Cornfire offer left-side only, near-milspec selectors too. Will those work with the CARL 3 rd burst? For me it's about more than just look. Mine isn't working yet with either the ARC-Fire or Cornfire. Stuff and Things is sending me a new secondary disconnector to try. I'm consistently getting light strikes more than half the time. In theory, any of the lever style FRTs should work with the CARL. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Fill with JB weld, sand smooth and paint. Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Originally Posted By Sputnik556: @ASDesigns Is there something you could do for those of us that don’t want the ambi look for clones? I’m thinking about buying one of these for an M16A2 clone, but I spent a lot of time and money making it 100% clone correct and I’d hate to just leave the lever off the right side. Even some kind of cap that’s held by a screw would be preferable to a slot and screw hole. Fill with JB weld, sand smooth and paint. I’d rather avoid permanent modifications but that may be the way to go. |
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Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: If clone-correct look is your biggest concern, look instead at the AZ Regulator 3-position trigger instead - that's what I put on my M16 clone. The Atrius or Cornfire offer left-side only, near-milspec selectors too. Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: Originally Posted By Sputnik556: @ASDesigns Is there something you could do for those of us that don’t want the ambi look for clones? I’m thinking about buying one of these for an M16A2 clone, but I spent a lot of time and money making it 100% clone correct and I’d hate to just leave the lever off the right side. Even some kind of cap that’s held by a screw would be preferable to a slot and screw hole. If clone-correct look is your biggest concern, look instead at the AZ Regulator 3-position trigger instead - that's what I put on my M16 clone. The Atrius or Cornfire offer left-side only, near-milspec selectors too. I had one and it wouldn’t fit well in H&R uppers unfortunately, it also won’t work with the CARL AFAIK |
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Originally Posted By Sputnik556: @ASDesigns Is there something you could do for those of us that don’t want the ambi look for clones? I’m thinking about buying one of these for an M16A2 clone, but I spent a lot of time and money making it 100% clone correct and I’d hate to just leave the lever off the right side. Even some kind of cap that’s held by a screw would be preferable to a slot and screw hole. I don't like ambi selectors at all. I would like a single-sided option an all FRT. |
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Originally Posted By Lexington: I don't like ambi selectors at all. I would like a single-sided option an all FRT. Originally Posted By Lexington: Originally Posted By Sputnik556: @ASDesigns Is there something you could do for those of us that don’t want the ambi look for clones? I’m thinking about buying one of these for an M16A2 clone, but I spent a lot of time and money making it 100% clone correct and I’d hate to just leave the lever off the right side. Even some kind of cap that’s held by a screw would be preferable to a slot and screw hole. I don't like ambi selectors at all. I would like a single-sided option an all FRT. I believe the V2 is going to have an option for right hand only, with a 90/180 degree selector. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I just left the right side lever off my go to rifle. https://i.imgur.com/9ijM2rJ.png?1" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/9ijM2rJ.png?1 Clean it! @ELittlefield |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I believe the V2 is going to have an option for right hand only, with a 90/180 degree selector. Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By Lexington: Originally Posted By Sputnik556: @ASDesigns Is there something you could do for those of us that don't want the ambi look for clones? I'm thinking about buying one of these for an M16A2 clone, but I spent a lot of time and money making it 100% clone correct and I'd hate to just leave the lever off the right side. Even some kind of cap that's held by a screw would be preferable to a slot and screw hole. I don't like ambi selectors at all. I would like a single-sided option an all FRT. I believe the V2 is going to have an option for right hand only, with a 90/180 degree selector. |
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Originally Posted By Jeremy2171: This and a 0/45/90 and a 0/45/180 I think as well. Originally Posted By Jeremy2171: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By Lexington: Originally Posted By Sputnik556: @ASDesigns Is there something you could do for those of us that don't want the ambi look for clones? I'm thinking about buying one of these for an M16A2 clone, but I spent a lot of time and money making it 100% clone correct and I'd hate to just leave the lever off the right side. Even some kind of cap that's held by a screw would be preferable to a slot and screw hole. I don't like ambi selectors at all. I would like a single-sided option an all FRT. I believe the V2 is going to have an option for right hand only, with a 90/180 degree selector. Yes, but those will be ambi. They're making a 45/90, 45/180, and 90/180 ambi V2, and a 90/180 right hand only, at least that's what they announced. |
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Originally Posted By JBJR: I also just put another in, but, with their supplied trigger. It will not function in frt. My G$ triggers I did work flawlessly. Guess I'll put a stone to it and see if that will help. I had to use a file on mine yesterday. It wouldn't function on either station for me otherwise. Trial and error a few times with testing fit but got it there. |
ARC-Fire Talk (G$ trigger mod instructions inside) (Page 21 of 28)
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