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ARC-Fire Talk (G$ trigger mod instructions inside) (Page 11 of 28)
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I would be down for another one, but I am waiting on the results of the two I have right now. They should be getting to them soon. If they are able to get my ARC's and G triggers fitted and working, then I will hopefully be able to see where and how much needs to be taken off them to properly work. Then I will be down for another one. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: I would be down for another one, but I am waiting on the results of the two I have right now. They should be getting to them soon. If they are able to get my ARC's and G triggers fitted and working, then I will hopefully be able to see where and how much needs to be taken off them to properly work. Then I will be down for another one. |
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Originally Posted By fulautotank: I plan on trying it with the G trigger that I cut myself. I'm crossing my fingers. Originally Posted By fulautotank: Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: I would be down for another one, but I am waiting on the results of the two I have right now. They should be getting to them soon. If they are able to get my ARC's and G triggers fitted and working, then I will hopefully be able to see where and how much needs to be taken off them to properly work. Then I will be down for another one. |
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Originally Posted By JTX23: Does anyone know why the MBT won't work with these? You can cut a super safety to work with an MBT, so theoretically it should if cut right. but we've already seen SS cut trigger need further cutting for the ARC so  .GMR cut MBT2s Attached File Factory MBT2S Attached File |
"My friend, you would not tell with such high zest
To children ardent for some desperate glory,
The old Lie: Dulce et decorum est
Pro patria mori." -Wilfred Owen
To children ardent for some desperate glory,
The old Lie: Dulce et decorum est
Pro patria mori." -Wilfred Owen
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Originally Posted By Bye_Felicia: You can cut a super safety to work with an MBT, so theoretically it should if cut right. but we've already seen SS cut trigger need further cutting for the ARC so .GMR cut MBT2s https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/40084/IMG_20240709_181027053_HDR__07861_jpg-3663229.JPG Factory MBT2S https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/40084/fc299fd94982d2de9e2884a0d36d6862__1__jpg-3663230.JPG That is what I was thinking and was curious why they have it listed as known to not work. |
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Originally Posted By fulautotank: I plan on trying it with the G trigger that I cut myself. I'm crossing my fingers. Which model G trigger? Keep us updated on how it goes. I am interested to hear if other people have issues or not. I really want to know what I was doing wrong with mine. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Which model G trigger? Keep us updated on how it goes. I am interested to hear if other people have issues or not. I really want to know what I was doing wrong with mine. Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Originally Posted By fulautotank: I plan on trying it with the G trigger that I cut myself. I'm crossing my fingers. Which model G trigger? Keep us updated on how it goes. I am interested to hear if other people have issues or not. I really want to know what I was doing wrong with mine. https://cornfirearsenal.com/milspec-active-reset-conversion-marc/ This is the new Corn Fire super safety. It's functionally similar to the Atrius, and it claims to work with several models of Geissele with minor fitting. I have two on the way. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Which model G trigger? Keep us updated on how it goes. I am interested to hear if other people have issues or not. I really want to know what I was doing wrong with mine. I cut myself but did not have anything to go by but some pictures. I just kept taking a little more each time and on the third try I got it to work with one of my SS's. |
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Order # in the 1800s I plan to modify my Geissele S3G. My plan is to compare it to one of the triggers that came with a Grey Market Research FRT. I guess I'll line up the trigger holes, scribe a line, get the Dremel out and hope for the best. |
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Originally Posted By Hanz: Order # in the 1800s I plan to modify my Geissele S3G. My plan is to compare it to one of the triggers that came with a Grey Market Research FRT. I guess I'll line up the trigger holes, scribe a line, get the Dremel out and hope for the best. I used a trigger pin and lined up my G2S I cut, with the included trigger and the left side profile from what my eyeballs could tell, was identical. So once I get my triggers and ARC's back from ASD, I am very curious to see how they have been modded. I will post up pictures once I get them back. I sent my modded G2S, and a untouched SSA-E. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: I used a trigger pin and lined up my G2S I cut, with the included trigger and the left side profile from what my eyeballs could tell, was identical. So once I get my triggers and ARC's back from ASD, I am very curious to see how they have been modded. I will post up pictures once I get them back. I sent my modded G2S, and an untouched SSA-E. I figured line up the pin holes and go for it. I'd appreciate any photos you care to share once ASD gets them back to you. |
Know Guns, Know Peace, Know Safety...No Guns, No Peace, No Safety
| Hit the range today with the AS Designs ARC-Fire in my PCC. I'd get 2-3 shots before it would not load the next round. I'd previously used a super safety (push type) and it functioned fine, full mag dumps. I tried three different types of ammo, all admittedly cheap, but two were 124 grain NATO which tends to be a bit hotter than the run of the mill 115 grain cheap stuff. I think the AS Designs, somehow, causes more drag for whatever reason. This is with a Geissele trigger. Back to the drawing board. I do have the lever blocker installed. |
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Originally Posted By Ape_Factory: Hit the range today with the AS Designs ARC-Fire in my PCC. I'd get 2-3 shots before it would not load the next round. I'd previously used a super safety (push type) and it functioned fine, full mag dumps. I tried three different types of ammo, all admittedly cheap, but two were 124 grain NATO which tends to be a bit hotter than the run of the mill 115 grain cheap stuff. I think the AS Designs, somehow, causes more drag for whatever reason. This is with a Geissele trigger. Back to the drawing board. I do have the lever blocker installed. If drag is the issue, perhaps a lighter buffer would be the solution. FWIW. |
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@s3igu2 Any reason not to file down the front edge of the MCX/MPX trip bar (reference picture below)?  I believe mine is getting caught at the lip of this notch (reference picture below) when the BCG is cycled back.  I thought I'd try here since I'm having little success e-mailing with AS Designs. |
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Originally Posted By jwlaxton: @s3igu2 Any reason not to file down the front edge of the MCX/MPX trip bar (reference picture below)? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/167244/AS_Designs_MCX_MPX_Trip1-3663877.jpg I believe mine is getting caught at the lip of this notch (reference picture below) when the BCG is cycled back. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/167244/AS_Designs_MCX_MPX_Trip3-3663876.jpg I thought I'd try here since I'm having little success e-mailing with AS Designs. That would be fine if its catching, a taper there is fine. What version MCX/MPX are you using? |
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Originally Posted By s3igu2: That would be fine if its catching, a taper there is fine. What version MCX/MPX are you using? Virtus upper in the picture, but the Arc Fire and trip are in an AR15 lower (with adapter) for evaluation. I have MPX-K, Rattler, Rattler LT, Virtus, and Spear LT. |
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Originally Posted By jwlaxton: @s3igu2 Any reason not to file down the front edge of the MCX/MPX trip bar (reference picture below)? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/167244/AS_Designs_MCX_MPX_Trip1-3663877.jpg I believe mine is getting caught at the lip of this notch (reference picture below) when the BCG is cycled back. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/167244/AS_Designs_MCX_MPX_Trip3-3663876.jpg I thought I'd try here since I'm having little success e-mailing with AS Designs. Is that the factory trip bar or someone else's? I have a friend wanting an FRT in his but he already has the factory FA trips and is curious if they will work. I know nothing about Sig stuff. 
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"My friend, you would not tell with such high zest
To children ardent for some desperate glory,
The old Lie: Dulce et decorum est
Pro patria mori." -Wilfred Owen
To children ardent for some desperate glory,
The old Lie: Dulce et decorum est
Pro patria mori." -Wilfred Owen
|
Originally Posted By Bye_Felicia: Is that the factory trip bar or someone else's? I have a friend wanting an FRT in his but he already has the factory FA trips and is curious if they will work. I know nothing about Sig stuff. Originally Posted By Bye_Felicia: Originally Posted By jwlaxton: @s3igu2 Any reason not to file down the front edge of the MCX/MPX trip bar (reference picture below)? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/167244/AS_Designs_MCX_MPX_Trip1-3663877.jpg I believe mine is getting caught at the lip of this notch (reference picture below) when the BCG is cycled back. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/167244/AS_Designs_MCX_MPX_Trip3-3663876.jpg I thought I'd try here since I'm having little success e-mailing with AS Designs. Is that the factory trip bar or someone else's? I have a friend wanting an FRT in his but he already has the factory FA trips and is curious if they will work. I know nothing about Sig stuff. The picture shows the AS Designs MPX/MCX Trip bar. The FA will not work with the Arc Fire, at least not without some type of modification. The lever is too high and catches on the back side of the trip bar. |
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Originally Posted By jwlaxton: The picture shows the AS Designs MPX/MCX Trip bar. The FA will not work with the Arc Fire, at least not without some type of modification. The lever is too high and catches on the back side of the trip bar. Originally Posted By jwlaxton: Originally Posted By Bye_Felicia: Originally Posted By jwlaxton: @s3igu2 Any reason not to file down the front edge of the MCX/MPX trip bar (reference picture below)? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/167244/AS_Designs_MCX_MPX_Trip1-3663877.jpg I believe mine is getting caught at the lip of this notch (reference picture below) when the BCG is cycled back. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/167244/AS_Designs_MCX_MPX_Trip3-3663876.jpg I thought I'd try here since I'm having little success e-mailing with AS Designs. Is that the factory trip bar or someone else's? I have a friend wanting an FRT in his but he already has the factory FA trips and is curious if they will work. I know nothing about Sig stuff. The picture shows the AS Designs MPX/MCX Trip bar. The FA will not work with the Arc Fire, at least not without some type of modification. The lever is too high and catches on the back side of the trip bar. Thanks, I'll pass on the information. |
"My friend, you would not tell with such high zest
To children ardent for some desperate glory,
The old Lie: Dulce et decorum est
Pro patria mori." -Wilfred Owen
To children ardent for some desperate glory,
The old Lie: Dulce et decorum est
Pro patria mori." -Wilfred Owen
|
Originally Posted By Ape_Factory: Hit the range today with the AS Designs ARC-Fire in my PCC. I'd get 2-3 shots before it would not load the next round. I'd previously used a super safety (push type) and it functioned fine, full mag dumps. I tried three different types of ammo, all admittedly cheap, but two were 124 grain NATO which tends to be a bit hotter than the run of the mill 115 grain cheap stuff. I think the AS Designs, somehow, causes more drag for whatever reason. This is with a Geissele trigger. Back to the drawing board. I do have the lever blocker installed. Might try a different buffer if you have one. Not sure what weight you have in there. I had a somewhat similar issue with a PCC not running with a FRT and it ended up being the buffer (H3) was too heavy. https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/CMMG-fixed-ejector-kit-not-reliable-with-FRT/15-792108/ Could also be the trigger too. Check the last couple pages for some of my posts about trying to get my G trigger to work. |
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Originally Posted By Hanz: That's very cool. Thank you. I figured line up the pin holes and go for it. I'd appreciate any photos you care to share once ASD gets them back to you. Yes I will be very curious to see what they do to the triggers to get them to work. That way I know what I did wrong and can hopefully spread the knowledge. |
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Originally Posted By bkpkr: It would be cool if @s3igu2 could provide us with a quick vid or some guidance with pics on properly cutting G triggers for the Arc-Fire. I will be cutting one pretty soon ill make a video when i do. Also already working on a jig that should help as well, they are kinda annoying to cut but once you do it a few times its not bad. |
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Originally Posted By s3igu2: I will be cutting one pretty soon ill make a video when i do. Also already working on a jig that should help as well, they are kinda annoying to cut but once you do it a few times its not bad. Originally Posted By s3igu2: Originally Posted By bkpkr: It would be cool if @s3igu2 could provide us with a quick vid or some guidance with pics on properly cutting G triggers for the Arc-Fire. I will be cutting one pretty soon ill make a video when i do. Also already working on a jig that should help as well, they are kinda annoying to cut but once you do it a few times its not bad. Awesome! Appreciate all your work in the frt realm. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Might try a different buffer if you have one. Not sure what weight you have in there. I had a somewhat similar issue with a PCC not running with a FRT and it ended up being the buffer (H3) was too heavy. https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/CMMG-fixed-ejector-kit-not-reliable-with-FRT/15-792108/ Could also be the trigger too. Check the last couple pages for some of my posts about trying to get my G trigger to work. I'm going to try and diagnose the issue today. Going to look at wobble and see if I need to shim it and double check function and when it's resetting. I had to do the normal cut on the right side of the Geissele and I also had to take a smidge off the top of the left side and round off that back corner in order for the trigger to be released. I have a sprinco yellow and a 3oz buffer where the weights shake, roller delayed so it's not a traditional blowback. |
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Originally Posted By s3igu2: I will be cutting one pretty soon ill make a video when i do. Also already working on a jig that should help as well, they are kinda annoying to cut but once you do it a few times its not bad. A jig specifically for G triggers to be used with the ARC fire would be awesome. As mentioned, I am down for another one, but I am waiting for the outcome of the two I am sending to them. Once I get them back and they both run, then I will be looking for another. |
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I took everything apart and gave it a thorough cleaning. There is a lot of side to slide play in my unit so I installed a shim. I ordered them prior to receiving my ARC just in case. Once installed, I went through a function test to document when the trigger reset and when I was able to pull the trigger in the firing cycle (dry fire). -The trigger reset when the bolt was at its furthest point before returning back into battery. -I was able to pull the trigger as the bolt entered into battery. I was doing this slowly with the charging handle so I'm making the assumption, based on how much faster things are moving, that it's in battery when the hammer drops. Now if the timing is correct with that washer in, just how much of a difference does it make? Anyway...I'll give it one more try before giving up and moving it to another rifle. |
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Signed up for an account because I saw some questions about G$ cuts. It’s very easy, just go slow. You can’t add back more material. It took me maybe 5 minutes of work. Cut the right leg using a cutting tool or dremel, follow the line on the trigger. You can put a sawzall blade or something behind the cutting wheel so you don’t mark up the other side. After that, take a dremel and LIGHTLY sand the other corner, rounding slightly. Take the paint off only, and make sure it’s smooth. Use high grit sandpaper. Install and function check, it should be safe and semi, and probably not quite able to reset in FRT mode. Take out the trigger, hit it with a couple passes with sandpaper, reinstall and repeats tests. Do this until FRT mode resets properly. You will have a very hard trigger pull at first, which means you are almost there. Take a few more passes and test until the G$ feels like a stock G$, should be a crisp pull, semi and FRT should be identical. Again, go slow, you may need to take it out 5-8 times and polish, that’s OK, better than destroying the trigger. You’ll know you’ve taken too much off when FRT works with the lower off but doesn’t reset when you put an upper on, that’s why it’s imperative you only take enough off that it resets and no more. When it starts resetting, put the upper on and dry fire test. Hard trigger pull means polish more. Won’t reset means you screwed it up. It’s not hard, just go slow and polish very lightly. Edit. Don’t use SS jig, ARC doesn’t need as much taken off. Do it by hand and go slow. |
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| Sorry if this has already been asked/answered, but are the selectors on the ARC swappable with standard mil-spec? I'm assuming they're not from people discussing ambi vs non, but ideally I would want to put something like the Griffin 3 position selector if there's something on the market that could |
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Originally Posted By AustinReaves15: Sorry if this has already been asked/answered, but are the selectors on the ARC swappable with standard mil-spec? I'm assuming they're not from people discussing ambi vs non, but ideally I would want to put something like the Griffin 3 position selector if there's something on the market that could The ARC selector is proprietary. The 3 position Arizona Regulator can use any standard M16 selector., including I believe that Griffin. |
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Originally Posted By jclendineng: Signed up for an account because I saw some questions about G$ cuts. It’s very easy, just go slow. You can’t add back more material. It took me maybe 5 minutes of work. Cut the right leg using a cutting tool or dremel, follow the line on the trigger. You can put a sawzall blade or something behind the cutting wheel so you don’t mark up the other side. After that, take a dremel and LIGHTLY sand the other corner, rounding slightly. Take the paint off only, and make sure it’s smooth. Use high grit sandpaper. Install and function check, it should be safe and semi, and probably not quite able to reset in FRT mode. Take out the trigger, hit it with a couple passes with sandpaper, reinstall and repeats tests. Do this until FRT mode resets properly. You will have a very hard trigger pull at first, which means you are almost there. Take a few more passes and test until the G$ feels like a stock G$, should be a crisp pull, semi and FRT should be identical. Again, go slow, you may need to take it out 5-8 times and polish, that’s OK, better than destroying the trigger. You’ll know you’ve taken too much off when FRT works with the lower off but doesn’t reset when you put an upper on, that’s why it’s imperative you only take enough off that it resets and no more. When it starts resetting, put the upper on and dry fire test. Hard trigger pull means polish more. Won’t reset means you screwed it up. It’s not hard, just go slow and polish very lightly. Edit. Don’t use SS jig, ARC doesn’t need as much taken off. Do it by hand and go slow. You described exactly how I did mine. Bench tested fine. Did not work on live fire. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: You described exactly how I did mine. Bench tested fine. Did not work on live fire. Bench test will work way past an over cut, you have to test in an upper, the bolt moves the lever back a certain distance and an over cut means lever needs to move back further and bolt may not trip it. It’s honestly a couple passes with 800 grit dremel, just to smooth out that tip a hair. If you have a SS jig, force the trigger in and check as well, it should stick up a hair from the jig as it doesn’t need cut as much as SS. |
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Has anyone had an issue with the lever falling too far forward with a milspec hammer? If I hold the rifle pointed downward the BCG will basically over-center on the lever & it will be a hard stop when trying to retract the bolt. When holding it upwards the lever falls back slightly under gravity & it is allowed to rotate normally. Using their trigger & a Colt 6920 hammer. Only happens in Safe / Semi positions since the lever is held slightly further back in the 3rd pos. A small piece of heat shrink on the hammer alleviated the issue in testing. I haven't gotten very far with the email support. 
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Originally Posted By Texasmusic: Has anyone had an issue with the lever falling too far forward with a milspec hammer? If I hold the rifle pointed downward the BCG will basically over-center on the lever & it will be a hard stop when trying to retract the bolt. When holding it upwards the lever falls back slightly under gravity & it is allowed to rotate normally. Using their trigger & a Colt 6920 hammer. Only happens in Safe / Semi positions since the lever is held slightly further back in the 3rd pos. A small piece of heat shrink on the hammer alleviated the issue in testing. I haven't gotten very far with the email support. https://i.ibb.co/BV61dxpt/Screenshot-2025-11-24-153619.png |
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Originally Posted By jclendineng: Bench test will work way past an over cut, you have to test in an upper, the bolt moves the lever back a certain distance and an over cut means lever needs to move back further and bolt may not trip it. It’s honestly a couple passes with 800 grit dremel, just to smooth out that tip a hair. If you have a SS jig, force the trigger in and check as well, it should stick up a hair from the jig as it doesn’t need cut as much as SS. My hammer would not fall at first. It acted like the safety was on. I removed only just enough to allow the hammer to fall, nothing more. Did not matter if a upper was on it or not, hammer would not fall until I trimmed the left side some, and I took off only just enough to let the hammer fall. |
ARC-Fire Talk (G$ trigger mod instructions inside) (Page 11 of 28)
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