11.5” 556 AR15 pistol. I want a comp that isn’t crazy loud, but reduces muzzle rise a little more than an A2 birdcage.

I’ve seen the Spikes Barking Spider 2. seems excessive and heavy. But I like the idea.

Who can assist from previous experience? I’ve only ever used birdcages.

I’m using a 3 prong black out. I don’t notice any muzzle rise. Grip it like a man

I have a 10.5" 5.56 upper that gets swapped back and forth with other uppers/calibers on a pistol lower.  On the 5.56 I have a Troy Claymore.  I didn't compare others, I read reviews here and elsewhere, purchased it b/c the ports direct the gases forward, which is what I wanted when shooting from a covered outdoor range.  I'm pleased with it enough that I haven't considered trying or swapping to anything else.

I use a VG6 GAMMA 65 on a 12.5" 6.5 Grendel, I like it too.

Does the gamma have side blast like most comps?
I think that was a stupid question judging by other threads.

Flash hider for short barrels. Compensator if it’s for competition. Brake if you, purposely, want to be an asshole.

No shot on that surefire, can’t own suppressors in my state and it’s $170 Isn’t worth it to me. I’m not going budget build but I’m also not building a $2000 dollar pistol.

I’m asking for experience with things like the Spikes barking spider aka shielded linear comps (I think they’re called).

The Midwest Industries Flash Can does an excellent job of directing the blast downrange.  It does not do anything to mitigate recoil or reduce flash though.  I have several of these on calibers from 7.5 inch 5.56 to .458 SOCOM and they are excellent.  They are aluminum so they do not add a lot of weight and I have not experienced any flame cutting on the aluminum after many hundreds of rounds.  They are also one piece so they do not need to be taken apart to be cleaned like the heavier and more expensive Noveske KX3 and KX5.

Precision Armament EFAB is nice - even with NODs. Expensive though. On.7.5s - the PWS CQB556 removes almost all blast fireball, again expensive and that one is heavy AF.

My vote would be for a deflector type device the prior poster mentioned.  Flaming pig if you are into high end, flash can or equivalent if you want something cheaper that does the same thing without the boutique logo.

They have one that isn’t suppressor threaded it’s like $80 I believe

+1 on the MWI flash can.  I had one on my 8" 300 pistol until my stamp got approved.  It's still loud but not obnoxious.  My 18" 5.56 3G setup with brake is way louder.

Harley supposed to be loud. No mufflers. Cheap KAK can for me. It's loud where it's supposed to be loud.

Don't get a Gamma for a short barrel. Your skull will hurt. I don't care about anyone around you. I put one on a 10.3 Hanson barrel, shot with it one time at an outdoor range. It hurt my teeth to shoot. Was literally painful. The Gamma also over compensates and pushes the muzzle down.

Just put an A2 or flash hider on it. Learn how to shoot and don't try to use a brake to compensate for not shooting it correctly.

I know how to shoot wise guy.

How do you like yours?

Looks like the Barking Spider I was talking about sorta.

I was bored over the holidays and got a really good deal on the Surefire warcomp closed end model. Seems to work fairly well with controlling flash and recoil on my 10.5” barrel. What actually helped more on the recoil impulse was changing my buffer and recoil spring.

SOLGW NOX

Nevermind.

The only reason “muzzle rise” exists with a linear system such as an ar15 is due to the way we position ourselves as we shoot. There is no inherent tendency for the muzzle to rise on its own. Instead of making a fulcrum at the toe of the stock make the point of contact at the heel. Or better yet don’t use a brace on an ar type pistol and you’re forced to line everything up eliminating “muzzle rise”.

Cool thanks man!

NOW THAT is what I'm talking about. I'm interested

You make a great point but to suggest not using a brace is not an option. What am I Jerry Mitchelek?
Thank you for your comment.

I would be wary of a device like the NOX or Warcomp on a shorter barrel. They are so effective at pushing the muzzle down with their top ports that they tend to dip the gun too far down with the far higher amount of pressure at the muzzle in a pistol.

I had a closed tine Warcomp on my 10.3 and the barrel was pushed so far down with each shot that the gas block (SLR) was striking my Geissele MK4 rail hard enough to the point of damaging the rail.

Ok then what about devices made for short AR’s. I’m going for 11.5 in my next build as I’ve read they perform much better with just one more inch.

I like that, but isn't the cage like $70 and the muzzle device $70. I'm leaning for the $100 price range or less.

This is what I use. Attached File

Not sure what those might be outside of a linear comp, but those have too much flash for me. I'm thinking of going with a 6315KM from Forward Controls Design to replace my Warcomp. Decent flash hiding and they claim 15-20% reduction of muzzle rise over an A2 and it works with Dead Air suppressors.

https://www.forwardcontrolsdesign.com/6315KM-12x28_p_191.html

15-20% over A2 when an a2 only reduces recoil by 8%  that is a 1-2% total system decrease. It looks like an A2 with a QD suppressor mount. No thanks, but thanks for the suggestion.

i've got an 11.5 BCM SBR w/the BCM comp. several years ago when they were doing the free BCG/comp with uppers, i picked up a couple uppers. the comp seems to help mitigate muzzle rise, and still works as a flash hider. Attached File

Works exceptionally well on my 12.5". Minimal concussion, almost zero muzzle flash, and shoots flat.

I'm going 11.5, Wonder if that inch will matter or not. Coming from a 10.5 I want to stay pretty short on this build I think.

I was wondering the same thing myself regarding 11.5 vs 12.5. I have a Surefire Warcomp on a 11.5 and it's a little harsh but tolerable.

When I put together my 11.3" 6.8 I went with the BRT
Covert Comp.  I've been very pleased with it.  It does
a good job of keeping the muzzle blast under control.

Sweet set up, man.

What does a STOCK do when placed against the shoulder? Steady the sights more easily for more accurate shooting earlier in the learning cycle. This is entirely the point when we no longer can afford to extensively train soldiers across the board to all be expert shooters with unlimited ammo budgets and weeks spent on ranges. It's why we also went to red dot sights - you acquire a target much more quickly and accurately.

The front of an AR pistol held securely, possibly with a sling arranged in a different way is how a lot of guys are doing it, and they hit standard targets at 100m with ease. Add the red dot, it tightens up even more. Again, all the stock against the shoulder does is help steady it more. After a certain point, breathing and heartbeat actually start interfering with the sight picture.

What is the intended purpose of a short barreled rifle caliber weapon? Short range quick fire in close combat. It's not a sniper rifle, it doesn't get or need a powered optic, it's a 21 foot to 50 yard gun. Tunnels, shipboard clearing, infra urban warfare. It's hardly a field infantry weapon despite what some thing the Infantry does with a 14.5" barrel. They are actually road patrolling, searching built up areas, etc - the battle ground has changed and it's not shooting each other from opposite mountaintops. And wasn't even in the "good ol days" of .30.

An AR pistol isnt anything more than a legal work around for an XM177 - a short barreled rifle - and the purpose is short range close warfare. Working the streets, indoors, exiting vehicles, you aren't setting up in the prone or attempting deadly accurate offhand shooting Olympic style - it's rough and tumble hold against a car door, gate, fence, column, expedient port thru adobe, up in the air working a staircase, around a hatch onboard chasing hijackers.

Put red dot on target and fire - where a stock goes, or not, isn't as important as we think. Stock weld - even with a brace - is sunny Saturday afternoon mowed grass range shooting at a stately pace with a Range officer observing and ready to pounce for pulling the trigger quicker than every two minutes. Wrong place to shoot - go where you stand up, move to contact, fire, change position, run jump and hit the ground. That is what the AR pistol is meant to do.

You don't need no stinkin stock or brace for that, you just need practice. Surely an AR pistol is more accurate than a 9mm . . . .

Make your own thread about your politics. This is about muzzle devices.
Move along.

I'm thinking EFAB -OR- Barking Spider 2 if I want to go flash suppresion, slight recoil mitagation, and percieved sound reduction/ blast (compared to a brake).

OR I'll just go MWI or Kaw Valley linear comp if I want to go that route. I'm thinking going this route first since its the cheapest. The top 2 are $150 and $120 respectively.

A very underestimated device......

cool device and all, but I'm not paying $90+ shipping for a birdcage 2.0

EFAB is the best muzzle device I've used. I had to ditch mine from the SBR because it's not a suppressor host, but as a standalone it's pretty much perfect. The recoil reduction is fantastic, it's not super blasty, and it does a decent job with flash reduction.

Sounds like a winner.

The very best Muzzle Device I've ever used on my 14.5", 10.5", and 10.3" Rifles and/or "Pistols" is hands down the Smith Enterprises "Vortex"... It dubs as a Suppressor Host and a Flash Hider. I never get cringes or "Stink-Face" at the range for nauseous decibel reflex and no matter the ammo the flash retardant is superior than anything else I've ever used even in almost zero dark situations. And for < $70 delivered it's a win-win. Shooting crappy Ruskie steel cased to quality and hot ass 77 grain IMI... you get near Zero flash. It's that good of a flash suppressor.

I’ve heard some saying this may over-comp the gun a bit but to the point of damaging your rail? Think you have some other issue going on.