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80% Jigs Summary (Page 1 of 5)
Posted: 8/4/2014 12:19:22 AM EDT
[Last Edit: medicmandan][Edited]
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I'll comment on the two I own and have used.
TR-Enabling 80% Jig No drill bushings.but seems very well made. On the Ares, mine only had drill bushings on one side. The only problem I have, (same problem with both) is when clamped in a vise, they do not hold together at the top. Maybe the type that bolt together through the pivot and takedown pin holes would not have the same issues. But then the locators may not be as accurate. I get around it with clamps, but it's more "stuff" in the way and a bandaid at best. Either will get the job done. On a mill, a jig is convenient, but certainly not required. |
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80% Arms "EasyJig" $149.99
Aluminum Drill Bushings: None http://www.80percentarms.com/products/80-ar-15-easy-jig Elite Tactical $100.00 Aluminum Drill Bushings: None http://www.elitetacticalweapons.com/80-lowers-80-jigs/ Elite Force $100.00 Aluminum Drill Bushings: None http://www.ar15jigs.com/drilljigs.html Colfax Tactical $99.00 Material: Unknown Drill Bushings: Unknown http://www.colfaxtactical.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=15&zenid=36379a277883e37fe9f5215c68a5ae3b Wine Country Weapons $150.00 Material: Unknown Drill Bushings: Unknown http://winecountryweapons.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/1775280 Tactical Machining $90.00 Material: Aluminum Drill Bushings: One Side http://www.tacticalmachining.com/80-ar-15-jig-gen-2.html AR-Parts $129.95 Material: Aluminum Drill Bushings: None http://www.ar-parts.net/ar-15/ar-15-80-lower-jig-entry-level/ .223 Targets $89.95 Material: Aluminum (Steel Top Plates) Drill Bushings: None http://www.223targets.com/80_percent_AR15_Lower_receiver_jig_AR15_p/ar-jig.htm Datum Gear $169.00 Material: Aluminum Drill Bushings: One Side? http://datumgear.com/ar-15-products/ Hell Fire Armory $64.46 Material: Aluminum Drill Bushings: None http://www.hellfirearmory.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=65_67&product_id=53 80 Percentar (ACT Tactical) $99.00 Material: Aluminum Drill Bushings: Unknown http://www.80percentar.com/#!product/prd1/964128084/ar-15-mill-fixture |
"When trading bullets it is better to give than to receive"
"Take your money and a traveler's bag. And if you don't have a sword, sell your clothes and buy one!" Jesus Christ - Luke 22.36
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This Thread is a PERFECT example of why we need an 80% Forum
Also, we could use a list of who offers 80% Lowers In addition, objective ratings of 80% Lowers and Jigs would be damn nice! The Jig that really interests me at this point is the Roseville. It has .154 holes for the trigger and hammer pins whereas every other Jig I can find is .156, I want to drill them at .154 and then ream them to .155 considering that the trigger pins are .154 diameter. Unfortunately, it doesn't have Drill Bushings and is only Type II anodizing. I'm thinking if I'm going to do several lowers, I might just get at least two jigs with different specs to finish them. |
"When trading bullets it is better to give than to receive"
"Take your money and a traveler's bag. And if you don't have a sword, sell your clothes and buy one!" Jesus Christ - Luke 22.36
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"Take your money and a traveler's bag. And if you don't have a sword, sell your clothes and buy one!" Jesus Christ - Luke 22.36
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Updated info for your list: The link is wrong on our jig. It should be: https://newfrontierarmory.com/shop/80-ar-15-lower-completion-jig/ Price is correct at $64.99 Material is 7075 T6 ceramic tumbled after machining. Nothing fancy as its really not necessary, just works and trying to keep the price down. Dealer pricing avaible for both items as well. |
New Frontier Armory, LLC
www.newfrontierarmory.com
North Las Vegas, NV
www.newfrontierarmory.com
North Las Vegas, NV
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I have the Roseville jig. It is a nice jig. Just make sure to keep the shank of the mill against the top plates or it will gouge the plate. I reckon that would be true of any of them tho. The .154 holes work out great. Nice snug fit for the pins, and so far, there have been no issues with installing the LPK. I am getting ready to start #4, it should be in the mailbox today. One thing to watch for on any jig is the slab thickness at the FCG pocket. I believe the spec is .906, but most forged lowers are less. I shimmed the last one .012 on each side to center the pocket. I discovered 2 layers of black electric tape meausre about .012 as well. I used steel shim stock last time, but am going to check out the tape as it won't leave any marks. Oh- I also reamed the selector hole to .376 for smoothness of operation.
Originally Posted By PursuitSS:
This Thread is a PERFECT example of why we need an 80% Forum Also, we could use a list of who offers 80% Lowers In addition, objective ratings of 80% Lowers and Jigs would be damn nice! The Jig that really interests me at this point is the Roseville. It has .154 holes for the trigger and hammer pins whereas every other Jig I can find is .156, I want to drill them at .154 and then ream them to .155 considering that the trigger pins are .154 diameter. Unfortunately, it doesn't have Drill Bushings and is only Type II anodizing. I'm thinking if I'm going to do several lowers, I might just get at least two jigs with different specs to finish them. |
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Originally Posted By ArmedFerret:
Your DIY Armory description is incorrect. The one I have sitting next to my mill has bushings on both sides. Thanks, got it fixed. I had to guess on some of those descriptions based on the pics available on the vendor's website. |
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One thing that should be noted is that although most forged 80%ers are all close to the same, not all billet lowers are the same. Some fixtures are proprietary to their manufacturers own billet lower so be sure the fixture you chose will work with the 80 you chose. I built my own fixture which I modeled from the standard forged lower drawing that is out there. I then only buy forged lowers with the Cerro Forge keyhole forge mark on it because I know it will match and Cerro Forge lowers are available in several places.
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Originally Posted By mirion:
One thing that should be noted is that although most forged 80%ers are all close to the same, not all billet lowers are the same. Some fixtures are proprietary to their manufacturers own billet lower so be sure the fixture you chose will work with the 80 you chose. I built my own fixture which I modeled from the standard forged lower drawing that is out there. I then only buy forged lowers with the Cerro Forge keyhole forge mark on it because I know it will match and Cerro Forge lowers are available in several places. http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg212/mirion/AR/Fixture1_zps3533f591.jpg http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg212/mirion/AR/8ed6e3bd-6998-406b-8f0d-c65faa9b28f8_zpse7c54dc8.jpg Nice, KISS. From my experiences, what I like about your jig (or others or dis-likes of others) is the low overall height. I don't need the jig extending past the lower, top or bottom. Being too tall, at either end causes issues. Too high, you can't see what you're doing. Important while you're learning. The more I do, the more I have moved past that being an issue. Too far past the receiver at the bottom pushes the receiver too high in smaller mills, too far out of smaller vises, and they won't fit in smaller vises when drilling the FCG and safety holes. I could go on, but when we have a dedicated 80% forum, it may have more purpose. ETA: I'll go on... --I'm not a machinist, but these are notes from my experiences with 80% receivers and jigs on a small milling machine: --If the jig extends too far below the receiver, the top of the jig tries to spread as the vise applies pressure at the bottom. --If the jig extends too far above the receiver, not only is it harder to see what you're cutting, but it requires longer end mills, which cost more, flex more and are more prone to breaking and trashing your receiver. --The jigs that have pins machined into them for locating on the takedown and pivot pins lack the built in clamping provided by the type that have bolts in those locations. --I've read a lot of concerns over compatability between lowers and jigs, so far I've had no such issues, however, I wouldn't be concerned with any such issues either. It's not hard to locate where the issues are and to remove material from the jig to allow for any variations in lowers. --With a mill, a jig is not required. But I still use them. Sort of a peace of mind for locating, measuring or marking cutting locations. Also, they are a very convenient way of squaring everything up. Provided the jig itself is square at the bottom specifically. Maybe the guys that do this stuff for a living are much faster, but it takes me 10x as long to square up a receiver not using a jig than it does using a jig. Even with a jig, I'd guess 90% of my time is leveling and squaring and measuring, not making chips. It all gets faster with practice though. --If you do more than 1 or 2 lowers, having replacement top plates could be an advantage. With a mill, they aren't required. Personally, by the time you destroy or wear out a template, you probably won't need one anymore. --Drill bushings are nice, I have one jig with none, and one jig with only one side. I use prints to locate the holes, but still leave the jig in place as a double check. My 80% Milling Thread Sorry if I rambled too much, but when I started my first 80, I scoured the webs for all the info I could find. The regurgitated info isn't helpful. First hand experiences, good and bad help A LOT !!! Read all you can, try to sort the good from the bad and don't get discouraged when you screw up. Learn from it. Remember 80% receivers have never been about saving $$, but the reward of leaning a skill, putting it to use, and having pride in the rifle you built. I get a lot out of it, that's why I spend the time to help others. |
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Originally Posted By AFCarbon15:
Nice, KISS. From my experiences, what I like about your jig (or others or dis-likes of others) is the low overall height. I don't need the jig extending past the lower, top or bottom. Being too tall, at either end causes issues. Too high, you can't see what you're doing. Important while you're learning. The more I do, the more I have moved past that being an issue. Too far past the receiver at the bottom pushes the receiver too high in smaller mills, too far out of smaller vises, and they won't fit in smaller vises when drilling the FCG and safety holes. I could go on, but when we have a dedicated 80% forum, it may have more purpose. Originally Posted By AFCarbon15:
Originally Posted By mirion:
One thing that should be noted is that although most forged 80%ers are all close to the same, not all billet lowers are the same. Some fixtures are proprietary to their manufacturers own billet lower so be sure the fixture you chose will work with the 80 you chose. I built my own fixture which I modeled from the standard forged lower drawing that is out there. I then only buy forged lowers with the Cerro Forge keyhole forge mark on it because I know it will match and Cerro Forge lowers are available in several places. http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg212/mirion/AR/Fixture1_zps3533f591.jpg http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg212/mirion/AR/8ed6e3bd-6998-406b-8f0d-c65faa9b28f8_zpse7c54dc8.jpg Nice, KISS. From my experiences, what I like about your jig (or others or dis-likes of others) is the low overall height. I don't need the jig extending past the lower, top or bottom. Being too tall, at either end causes issues. Too high, you can't see what you're doing. Important while you're learning. The more I do, the more I have moved past that being an issue. Too far past the receiver at the bottom pushes the receiver too high in smaller mills, too far out of smaller vises, and they won't fit in smaller vises when drilling the FCG and safety holes. I could go on, but when we have a dedicated 80% forum, it may have more purpose. Let's make this the main discussion for jigs. Keep the feedback coming. |
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Custom Built Arms $89.99
Material: Aluminum Drill Bushings: None http://custombuiltarms.com/80/clr004.html Northwest Custom Precision $85.00 Material Aluminum Drill Bushings: One side? http://www.nwprecision.org/products/10103.html Viper Defense $80.00 Material: Aluminum Drill Bushings: No http://www.tacticalriflesar15.com/80-lower-receiver-drill-jig.html Elemental Arms $85.00 Material: Aluminum Drill Bushings: None http://www.elementalarms.com/products/blue-jig AR-15 Lower Receivers $114.99 Material: Aluminum Drill Bushings: None http://www.ar-15lowerreceivers.com/ar-15/entry-level-ar-15-80-lower-jig/ JL Billet $140.00 Material: Aluminum Drill Bushings: Yes (one side?) http://www.cnc80.com/AR-15-Lower-Receiver-Jig-Set-JLB-AR15JIG.htm FPS Products (BTR Jig) $74.99 Material: Steel? Drill Bushings: None http://fpsproducts.com/BTR-80-AR-15-JIG-SET-BTR-DP23.htm CB Arms $89.99 Material: Aluminum Drill Bushings: None http://cbarms.com/80/clr004.html I'll add more later, DAMN there must be dozens if not hundreds of companies selling these. Now, I'll comment in what I'd LIKE to see in a jig... 3/4" to 1" thick plates (to make sure your bit is going in straight If Aluminum, Drill bushings on both sides, BUT, I'd prefer hardened Steel plates .154 trigger and Hammer pin holes (so I can ream it to .155, the pins are .154) .368 for the safety (so I can ream it to 3/8" which is .375) DEFINITELY hardened Steel Plates for the top plates |
"When trading bullets it is better to give than to receive"
"Take your money and a traveler's bag. And if you don't have a sword, sell your clothes and buy one!" Jesus Christ - Luke 22.36
NRA Endowment Member
"Take your money and a traveler's bag. And if you don't have a sword, sell your clothes and buy one!" Jesus Christ - Luke 22.36
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...believe in me, I'm with the High Command.
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M-16 Parts $90.00
Material: Unknown Drill Bushings: Unknown http://www.m-16parts.com/contents/en-us/d68_lowerreceiverjigset.html Daytona Tactical $74.95 Material: Aluminum Drill Bushings: Yes http://daytonatactical.com/collections/80-lowers/products/80-ar-15-lower-jig AR's Unlimited $95.00 Material: Aluminum Drill Bushings: No http://arsunlimited.com/product/ar-15-jig/ IE Tactical $54.99 Material: Aluminum Drill Bushings: No http://www.ietactical.com/catalog/product.asp?ret_id=1345919&pid=1033122 Broken Armory $149.00 Material: Aluminum Drill Bushings: Yes http://www.brokenarmory.com/AR15-80-Lower-Receiver-Jig-JIG-00.htm AR-15 Kits $90.00 Material: Aluminum Drill Bushings: Unknown http://www.ar15-kits.com/contents/en-us/d253_jigsets.html Best Quality Lowers $75.00 Material: Aluminum Drill Bushings: No http://bestqualitylowers.com/AR-15-80-Finishing-Jig-AR15FJ.htm AR15 Arms $89.99 Material: Aluminum Drill Bushings: Unknown http://ar15arms.com/product/80-ar-15-universal-jig/ Sierra Gun Exchange (Bear Arms Customs) $125.00 Material: Aluminum Drill Bushings: Unknown http://www.sierragunexchange.com/80_AR15_Jig_p/ba80-ar15-jig.htm |
"When trading bullets it is better to give than to receive"
"Take your money and a traveler's bag. And if you don't have a sword, sell your clothes and buy one!" Jesus Christ - Luke 22.36
NRA Endowment Member
"Take your money and a traveler's bag. And if you don't have a sword, sell your clothes and buy one!" Jesus Christ - Luke 22.36
NRA Endowment Member
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Originally Posted By mirion: One thing that should be noted is that although most forged 80%ers are all close to the same, not all billet lowers are the same. Some fixtures are proprietary to their manufacturers own billet lower so be sure the fixture you chose will work with the 80 you chose. Great point. And we agree, thats why we made our jig fit both our billet lowers and all standard forged lowers as well as most other billet lowers out there. Much of the differences on most billet lowers happen in the magwell area, where you don't need a jig because you're not cutting there. Thats why ours only clamps in the back, its much more versatile with different designs then modifying them to fit different lowers.
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New Frontier Armory, LLC
www.newfrontierarmory.com
North Las Vegas, NV
www.newfrontierarmory.com
North Las Vegas, NV
|
I went cheap and got the one from IE Tactical
It is in fact actually from BTR Innovations It worked fine Directions are weak I locates off the rear take done pin holes and the bolt catch plunger hole The trigger - hammer - selector holes are only drilled on one side as it comes. No problem I bolter the side plates together and drilled threw Not having bushed holes is a non issue for me .. I always start the motor after dropping the bit in the guide / jig hole and hand spinning it. |
| 80% Arms's Easy Jig is another good one to add to this list. Having used both their old jig that you have listed on here and the CNC Guns jig, the easy jig is by far a better approach. It took less than half as long to complete. They have a very nice instructional video and set of instructions on their website. Video review on it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_nkAxoNHuY&list=UU2ZgSMNpwp_6CQ5Pmt_3D_Q |
| If you have a milling machining to finish your 80% lower you really don't need a jig. You can find prints on the internet for free. Just thought I'd mention it I have done three 80% lowers and only used the jig on the first one more trouble than it is worth. I have since built two lowers entirely from scratch using just the prints and a sample finished lower. Can save you a good piece of change not buying jigs. |
| This thread had me thinking and while digging, came across this one for the 100th time This is why we put all that time and effort into an 80%'er when a 100% receiver is $50 |
A firearm is like a parachute, if you need one but don't have one, you'll probably never need one again.
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One comment on the KE Arms jig (and others that use the takedown pin hole): this sucks. If you're doing a lower, you either have to remove the pin while getting the rear pocket, or you have to do what I did, which is forget the pin is in there and just cut right through it.
The Billet 80 jig is harder to assemble (those little screws are finicky) but you can run it without the top plate and it holds the 80% lower just fine. Honestly, by my fifth lower, I didn't need the top plate any more and it was faster to work without it. Also, the bushings seem like a boon, but they aren't. I found it hard to get centered because you can't see the contact point. If the bushing face was flat, I think it would be easier to use. |
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| Where could this gentleman find an old school jig to bore out the mag well? |
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Originally Posted By backbencher:
Where could this gentleman find an old school jig to bore out the mag well? There are no magwell jigs. |
"When trading bullets it is better to give than to receive"
"Take your money and a traveler's bag. And if you don't have a sword, sell your clothes and buy one!" Jesus Christ - Luke 22.36
NRA Endowment Member
"Take your money and a traveler's bag. And if you don't have a sword, sell your clothes and buy one!" Jesus Christ - Luke 22.36
NRA Endowment Member
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Originally Posted By PursuitSS:
There are no magwell jigs. Originally Posted By PursuitSS:
Originally Posted By backbencher:
Where could this gentleman find an old school jig to bore out the mag well? There are no magwell jigs. So buy a blem Anderson & cut it down as a jig? In fact, for some of these jigs, you could buy 2 blem Andersons - cut one in half to serve as the right & left guides, and cut the top off the other for the top jig? 
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Watch this space. In the meantime - be evil.
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Originally Posted By medicmandan:
The list is getting long! Thanks PursuitSS No problem, you were the one who started this thread. Hopefully, we can get it made a "Sticky". |
"When trading bullets it is better to give than to receive"
"Take your money and a traveler's bag. And if you don't have a sword, sell your clothes and buy one!" Jesus Christ - Luke 22.36
NRA Endowment Member
"Take your money and a traveler's bag. And if you don't have a sword, sell your clothes and buy one!" Jesus Christ - Luke 22.36
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...believe in me, I'm with the High Command.
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I'll add one to the database: $149.99 One of the more expensive ones but looks like it will fit any lower and the design looks much less likely to have a user accidentally cut into the jig during milling process. |
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Originally Posted By Mute:
I'll add one to the database: http://www.modulusarms.com/limited-time-offer-modulus-arms-universal-ar-15-jig-black-anodized-lower-receiver-package/ $149.99 One of the more expensive ones but looks like it will fit any lower and the design looks much less likely to have a user accidentally cut into the jig during milling process. Added. 
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The 80% Arms EZ Jig should also be listed. It uses a router instead of a drill to finish lowers very quickly. It's a premium jig at $149.99 but by far the sturdiest router based jig on the market and available for both AR-15 and AR-10 platform.
http://www.80percentarms.com/collections/lower-jigs/products/80-ar-15-easy-jig I believe Paul is staff at AR15.com and did a comprehensive review. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/642434_80_Percent_Arms_308_Lower_and_Jig_Review.html |
| While back http://shop.tacticalshit.com had em for 39.95. I've never given over 65.00 for an 80. Give 60 for three and 39.95 for my last one. Stealth arms is where I've bought a couple. Buy the 95s if you can find them. The back pin pocket is already milled. |
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Originally Posted By 4nik8r: The DIY Armory anodized jig I got in the mail today only has the bushings on one side. Originally Posted By 4nik8r: Originally Posted By ArmedFerret: Your DIY Armory description is incorrect. The one I have sitting next to my mill has bushings on both sides. |
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Tactical Machining has their jig on sale Friday-Monday for $64.
http://www.tacticalmachining.com/80-products/80-jigs/80-ar-15-jig-gen-2.html |
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Originally Posted By medicmandan:
Added.
Originally Posted By medicmandan:
Originally Posted By Mute:
I'll add one to the database: http://www.modulusarms.com/limited-time-offer-modulus-arms-universal-ar-15-jig-black-anodized-lower-receiver-package/ $149.99 One of the more expensive ones but looks like it will fit any lower and the design looks much less likely to have a user accidentally cut into the jig during milling process. Added.
I bought this Jig... Almost finished with my first lower. Top down design is so easy to use and it prevents marring the lower finish with a few pieces of blue tape. I'm using a mini mill. I'm thoroughly impressed with this jig. |
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Originally Posted By Realtor:
I bought this Jig... Almost finished with my first lower. Top down design is so easy to use and it prevents marring the lower finish with a few pieces of blue tape. I'm using a mini mill. I'm thoroughly impressed with this jig. Originally Posted By Realtor:
Originally Posted By medicmandan:
Originally Posted By Mute:
I'll add one to the database: http://www.modulusarms.com/limited-time-offer-modulus-arms-universal-ar-15-jig-black-anodized-lower-receiver-package/ $149.99 One of the more expensive ones but looks like it will fit any lower and the design looks much less likely to have a user accidentally cut into the jig during milling process. Added.
I bought this Jig... Almost finished with my first lower. Top down design is so easy to use and it prevents marring the lower finish with a few pieces of blue tape. I'm using a mini mill. I'm thoroughly impressed with this jig. And they have some BF deals going on. cant wait to start my lowers when it shows up! |
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Originally Posted By AFCarbon15:
Anyone have a favorite budget jig? Going to have a build party soon. Two or three of the same jig would be nice. But not if they are $100+ I saw a budget jig but have to look for it. It was so "budget", that the instructions told you to set it on a couple of pieces of wood 2x4 so the bottom of the receiver didn't hit the table. 
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Anyone used this one yet:
http://www.eparmory.com/product-p/metal80jig.htm 
All steel plates, $75.00 Wes |
80% Jigs Summary (Page 1 of 5)
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