What mags are you running, since if they are 223 mags with the wider  22 Nosler case, going to cause all kinds of feed problems.  Hence in both photos, the case slipped out of the feed ramps on the mags, well before the bullet tip has entered the chamber.

So on that note, make sure you are running 22 Nosler mags, which should retain the case correctly in the mag lips during the bolt charge into the chamber, and release the case from the feed lips at the correct timing.

Will the bolt lock back on the mag catch (catch in front of the bolt holding it back), when a single round is loaded and fired through rifle with the mag still in the well?

In the photo's, it has the bolt face behind the rim, so bolt is at least making it that far back, but may not be enough to get a clean run at the case on the strip out of the mag/

Mags, when was the last time they where pulled apart and cleaned.

Mag catch button, is the threaded part of the catch end flush with the face of the button?

Hence all to check if the problem is on a live feed.

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As for problem with the rifle stove piping on ejection the spent case, start with just pulling the charging handle all the way back, and make sure that the face of the bolt stops 1/8" to 1/4" in front of the back edge of the ejection port window.  If bolt is stopping too far back, the pull buffer and recoil spring, and use quarters for end of tube spacer to get the bolt to stop in the correct postion in front of the ejection port back window edge.

Next hook a spent case on the ejectors, and cam the ejector into the bolt face a few times to make sure that the ejector is not binding in the bolt channel for it.

From here, pull the extractor to make sure that the ends of grabbing claw do not have burs, preventing the grabbing claw from getting a good bit on the rim (so is not dropping the spent case of the pull), and if you don't know what extractor spring is in the extractor, replace with a Colt M4 extra tension extractor spring.
Note, until the new extractor spring arrives, just use a #60 O ring around the standard tension spring to add tension to it.

Last one, double check your loads to make sure they are not going over pressure, unlocking the bolt too soon, and make sure to chamber brush clean the chamber with CLP by hand each cleaning.  Hence dirty chamber, load too hot, or bolt just unlocking too fast, will cause the spent case to be pressure welded/retained to the chamber walls too much on the pull, ending up with the spent case still not in tow on the bolt face at back of stroke.

Another items to check since you do have a color plated extractor, take a sharpy marker to the extractor rim releif channel to color it black, put it back in the bolt, then with a live round hooked on the extractor and the ejector pushed in so the rim of the case is as far away from the extractor to the other side of the bolt face channel as posible, spin the round and make sure that the rim of the case is removing the maker coloring from the rim relief channel of the extractor.

Hence either a bur at the extractor contact pad on the side of the extractor to the bolt side, or on the bolt side, may not be allowing the extractor to seat on the rim with the rim all the way to the face of the extractor rim relief channel so claw can get a full bite on the pull.

Hence either bolt coming back too far and spent case tagging the the back inner edge of the ejection window on pivot off the bolt face to deflect the spent case back in, or extractor is dropping the spent case on the pull/why it not being pivoted off the bolt correctly out the ejection window on the back of stroke buffer stall.

During extraction, spent case is pressure welded to the chamber, and the bolt with extractor in tow, is turning on the spent case rim.

So any leading edge burs on the extractor claw, or the rim relief channel, is going to shave the spent case rim.

So burs at tip of claws and even slides leading back to the rim releif channel are debured, so it not shaving the rim on the turn.


Next is the rim relief channel ends are removed of burs,


Little cold blueing, and no one by yourself will know that the extractor has been de-bured.



From here, quick check of the bolt face edge at the extractor cut out for sharp ridge that may need to be smoothed out, since the bolt face will be turning on the spent case rim before unlock, and it can shave the rim as well.  If you do have a way to pull the ejectors not bend the roll pin when you reinstall the ejector, does not hurt to clean up any extractor channel rim burs as well.



Simply, chances the old extractor just needed to be de-bured, and maybe pad adjusted so it was not shaving brass on the turn/getting the full bite on the rim as pull.  The new extractor is getting a better bite, but still needs to be de-bured so it not shaving brass on the bolt unlock turn before the lugs clear and case can be pulled.

To add,


The entry taper on the extractor that the case rim has to ride down on feed, to snap the ejector open so the rim can get under the claw, needs work as well.  It's a touch rougher in surface face than ideal, but more so, the case rim is contacting only of the edges of the radius, then the entire radius instead.  So would spend some time cleaning up the end of raduis ridges on both sides so the case rim does a full contact to the entire surface, followed by smoothing the entire  entry taper suface as well.