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Link Posted: 9/26/2005 9:24:28 PM EDT
[#1]
strange.  it's times like this, where you should own multiple ARs so you can swap parts out to trouble shoot.
Link Posted: 9/26/2005 10:09:55 PM EDT
[#2]
Dude.  Get out your wallet and hammer the home made looking ghetto mags flat.  Then, take some money out of your wallet and get some new, aluminum, GI mags.
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 3:45:45 AM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
Dude.  Get out your wallet and hammer the home made looking ghetto mags flat.  Then, take some money out of your wallet and get some new, aluminum, GI mags.



I agree with your idea of hammering the mags flat and buying new, ones, but they were not homemade, I bought them this way,lol. I do think the mags is one area , but there is still another problem that I need to work thru.  Thanks for your idea , as I said I will try  to follow thru with everyones suggestions.
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 3:46:32 AM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:
strange.  it's times like this, where you should own multiple ARs so you can swap parts out to trouble shoot.



I told SWMBO the exact same thing, got no where
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 8:00:46 AM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:

Quoted:
You can try hitting the bump out just below the rectangular mag catch with the plastic handle of a screwdriver. By flattening the bump out just a little, about .010", they will usually drop free. Try one to see if it works. Do not damage the magazine by trying to hit it too hard. If not you can return the lower receiver to us as we have a jig that will open the magazine well slightly, about .020", that should take care of the problem.
           Thank you.



Ive already tried that and may have gone past .010.  Do you work for bushmaster, Greg, and if so, do I have to go thru a ffl to send it to you, or in other words how to I send it to you.



sORRY i DONT  work for Bushmaster. I had the same problem with a bushmaster. That was the email I got from bushmaster tech suport. The mag bump worked for me. Also if I used the Britsh Steel 30 rounds they would drop free without modification.

You do not need to go thru a ffl for your own personal rifle/pistol. but the reciver must have an ffl.
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 1:50:13 PM EDT
[#6]
A little update, I took my buffer apart and removed all the lead, reapplied the lead till I got 3.9 oz and its still a bolt action, I cleaned the buffer,buffer tube,spring, bolt,bolt carrier and cam pin today, it did eject a shell or two of the 60 grain UMC, wouldnt eject a 40 gr. Win at all, this is with NO mags in just one shell at a time.  There is a problem with the mags I have, I have already established that, sometimes they wouldnt even feed with me pulling the charging handle everytime, so I just started putting a shell in at a time, still no ejection, the ejection cover was getting knocked down but the bolt wasnt going far enough to eject the shell, and when I ran one shell with the empty mag, it did not hold the bolt open. ANYONE have any ideas since I have eliminated the mags, lightened the buffer and cleaned and lubed everything, its the same car stock and spring Ive had for 8 years to. ANYONE?PLEASE? Thank yall for all your help.My sons got baseball practice so I will be gone for a few hours. Yall take care
Randy
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 2:45:54 PM EDT
[#7]

Quoted:
Ok another update, thru everyones suggestions I broke the bolt carrier down, except I didnt take out the key or the actual bolt, took out the cam pin, cam and firing pin. One thing odd though is the cam was pretty much locked in I think the reap position, apparently some severe crud had gotten down inside the bolt carrier around the bolt and made it so sticky I could barely unstick it.



I don't get it, you "broke down" the bolt carrier but didn't remove the bolt?  Have you ever removed the bolt? You need to completely disassemble the carrier and clean everything before you do anything else.
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 3:22:44 PM EDT
[#8]

I'll bet good money you're losing gas somewhere between the barrel port and the gas key.
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 3:22:58 PM EDT
[#9]
My wild thinking: Would it be possible that excessive gas leak from sight block when you remove the A1 upper and install the flat-top upper? The other one: How's those 3 gas ring on your bolt look, are they being position right so the 3 opening are NOT line up, or has it being worn down where it does not create a good seal?

I would suggest: Load and fire a round to observe how the bolt operate. Have the ejection port face upward so you can see it clearly. If bolt only move partially and stop, I will not be looking into buffer but the whole gas system and try to find out if there is any leak. I would also make sure the bolt/bolt carrier is funtioning the way it should be, which means the bolt rotate in and out of locking position freely in the bolt carrier.

Now, if the bolt does go fully back but still does not eject the round, then I will look at the extractor. Has it being worn down? Does the spring still have enough tension to hold the casing and pull it out?

Link Posted: 9/27/2005 4:56:43 PM EDT
[#10]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Ok another update, thru everyones suggestions I broke the bolt carrier down, except I didnt take out the key or the actual bolt, took out the cam pin, cam and firing pin. One thing odd though is the cam was pretty much locked in I think the reap position, apparently some severe crud had gotten down inside the bolt carrier around the bolt and made it so sticky I could barely unstick it.



I don't get it, you "broke down" the bolt carrier but didn't remove the bolt?  Have you ever removed the bolt? You need to completely disassemble the carrier and clean everything before you do anything else.




Ok this part is new to me, I was under the impression you couldnt take the bolt totally out of the carrier, because of the stake marks in the carrier  tube key, I thought you had to do something special to get it out and I didnt want to mess up my only bolt. I got the US Marine core manual TM 05538c-23&p/2 for the M16 that I bought from an Army surplus store, it has pretty good directions but it doesnt tell me how to remove the carrier key with the staked bolts. I m more than open to anyones suggestions on how to disassemble the bolt all the way , thanks for your help
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 5:02:13 PM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:
My wild thinking: Would it be possible that excessive gas leak from sight block when you remove the A1 upper and install the flat-top upper? The other one: How's those 3 gas ring on your bolt look, are they being position right so the 3 opening are NOT line up, or has it being worn down where it does not create a good seal?

( havent dont  this yet, see above post)

I would suggest: Load and fire a round to observe how the bolt operate. Have the ejection port face upward so you can see it clearly. If bolt only move partially and stop, I will not be looking into buffer but the whole gas system and try to find out if there is any leak. I would also make sure the bolt/bolt carrier is funtioning the way it should be, which means the bolt rotate in and out of locking position freely in the bolt carrier.

(OK I did do this today, and the bolt moved pretty quick but it would only move enough to open the ejection cover and went back, I really think it is short stroking if that is the right term)I checked the bolt rotation last night and it was sticky almost stuck, did not rotate freely at all so I cleaned all the crud, where that came from I got no idea, with carb cleaner,  I will try to remove the bolt all the way as soon as I learn how) thanks for the help

Now, if the bolt does go fully back but still does not eject the round, then I will look at the extractor. Has it being worn down? Does the spring still have enough tension to hold the casing and pull it out?

(naw it doestn look worn, and it will grab a shell and eject everytime I pull the charging handle, and its still got a hold of it after I fire and slooooowly pull the charging handle to see if it ejected the shell, its still in its grasp)


Link Posted: 9/27/2005 5:09:03 PM EDT
[#12]
HAHAHA Im so stupid, I just went here www.ar15.com/content/guides/maintenance/

and it showed my how to disassemble my bolt and carrier, last night I tugged and tugged and the dang bolt would not fall out- Cleaning again now-any thing I need to look for out of the way-thanks
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 5:16:17 PM EDT
[#13]
Check to see if the gas tube is upside down (the hole for the gas port is facing up).

I had this problem when I put the tube in upside down after switching uppers on my rifle.
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 5:19:13 PM EDT
[#14]

Quoted:
Check to see if the gas tube is upside down (the hole for the gas port is facing up).

I had this problem when I put the tube in upside down after switching uppers on my rifle.



you talking about the hole in the front sight? Should the hole be up or down, Im a little confused
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 5:24:41 PM EDT
[#15]

Quoted:
HAHAHA Im so stupid, I just went here www.ar15.com/content/guides/maintenance/

and it showed my how to disassemble my bolt and carrier, last night I tugged and tugged and the dang bolt would not fall out- Cleaning again now-any thing I need to look for out of the way-thanks



So you meant to tell us that you never take your bolt apart to clean for all these years? You might have found the root cause of all the trouble you are seeing. You got some crud to clean, some serious crud. I'd whip out the scraping tools and dental tools. Good luck.
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 5:28:25 PM EDT
[#16]

Quoted:

Quoted:
HAHAHA Im so stupid, I just went here www.ar15.com/content/guides/maintenance/

and it showed my how to disassemble my bolt and carrier, last night I tugged and tugged and the dang bolt would not fall out- Cleaning again now-any thing I need to look for out of the way-thanks



So you meant to tell us that you never take your bolt apart to clean for all these years? You might have found the root cause of all the trouble you are seeing. You got some crud to clean, some serious crud. I'd whip out the scraping tools and dental tools. Good luck.




Ive always shot bore cleaner in the bolt and blowed it out with compressed air, I got it apart as we speek and it doestn look all that worn, the 3 rings werent lined up, they were staggered so I left them that way, however, as your looking at the bolt, with the head toward your left, so the rings are on the right, how smooth should the tail end be on the bolt, at the very end my is smooth but toward the rings it is rough, but it looks like it was made that way, Im gonna go buff it


Oh I see my bolt is marked MPC does that mean anything
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 5:38:06 PM EDT
[#17]

Quoted:

Ive always shot bore cleaner in the bolt and blowed it out with compressed air, I got it apart as we speek and it doestn look all that worn, the 3 rings werent lined up, they were staggered so I left them that way, however, as your looking at the bolt, with the head toward your left, so the rings are on the right, how smooth should the tail end be on the bolt, at the very end my is smooth but toward the rings it is rough, but it looks like it was made that way, Im gonna go buff it


Oh I see my bolt is marked MPC does that mean anything



Between the 3 gas rings and the end of your bolt carrier, some good crud might build up. Some says that you don't need to clean it, but I always do anyway. You might want to adjust the gas ring opening so they are on 12 clock, 4:30 and 7:30. MPC marking means that your bolt should be made by Colt and has being magnetic particle tested to ensure that the bolt quality is good. The tail of the bolt will be smooth after some shooting, you do not need to buff that part more then what it is already.
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 5:42:07 PM EDT
[#18]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Ive always shot bore cleaner in the bolt and blowed it out with compressed air, I got it apart as we speek and it doestn look all that worn, the 3 rings werent lined up, they were staggered so I left them that way, however, as your looking at the bolt, with the head toward your left, so the rings are on the right, how smooth should the tail end be on the bolt, at the very end my is smooth but toward the rings it is rough, but it looks like it was made that way, Im gonna go buff it


Oh I see my bolt is marked MPC does that mean anything



Between the 3 gas rings and the end of your bolt carrier, some good crud might build up. Some says that you don't need to clean it, but I always do anyway. You might want to adjust the gas ring opening so they are on 12 clock, 4:30 and 7:30. MPC marking means that your bolt should be made by Colt and has being magnetic particle tested to ensure that the bolt quality is good. The tail of the bolt will be smooth after some shooting, you do not need to buff that part more then what it is already.


Thanks I put the rings where you said, the only crud I can find is inside the carrier where the bolt goes, at the back end where the tail of the bolt is, I ASSume if there is crud here, about the location of the rings that gas can blow by, is this correct?
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 5:58:52 PM EDT
[#19]
If you had that much trouble pulling the bolt out of the carrier,  you must have some serious fouling.  I would soak the bolt and the carrier seperately in pure powder solvent.  Scrub any areas you can reach with a bristle brush, and repeat until you see no more black fouling coming of the ports.  Then blow the parts out with air compressor.  Make sure the gas ring notches are evenely spaced around the bolt and reasemble.  You may even want to let the parts soak over night.  I am sure this fouling is the cause of all your problems.
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 6:01:32 PM EDT
[#20]

Quoted:
If you had that much trouble pulling the bolt out of the carrier,  you must have some serious fouling.  I would soak the bolt and the carrier seperately in pure powder solvent.  Scrub any areas you can reach with a bristle brush, and repeat until you see no more black fouling coming of the ports.  Then blow the parts out with air compressor.  Make sure the gas ring notches are evenely spaced around the bolt and reasemble.  You may even want to let the parts soak over night.  I am sure this fouling is the cause of all your problems.



Im scrubing now, already buff the bolt tail clean, what I thought was rough machining was foul, I make soak the entire thing in Kroil that stuff will eat thru just about anything. I will assemble it again tomorrow, and if this dont work I ll will pull my hair out
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 6:08:12 PM EDT
[#21]
After you reasemble, you should be able to turn the bolt aproximately a 1/4 turn and as it ratates it should move into and out of the carier about a 1/4 inch or so.  It should do this pretty freely.  As the bolt is facing you, it should turn clockwise and into the carrier, and counter clockwise and out of the carrier.
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 6:08:56 PM EDT
[#22]

Quoted:
After you reasemble, you should be able to turn the bolt aproximately a 1/4 turn and as it ratates it should move into and out of the carier about a 1/4 inch or so.  It should do this pretty freely.




still scrubing with carb cleaner, thanks


Im concentrating my cleaning efforts the most in the area right underneath the key with the two staked bolts, is this the right area to be working the hardest at
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 6:17:14 PM EDT
[#23]
The entire inside of the carrier should be clean. This area should be chrome inside and not to dificult to clean.  For the future,  I use a product called QD electrical contact cleaner after I am done scrubing with powder solvent.  It washes away all the left over solvent, and dries instantly.  Then after I reassemble, I add a few drops of lubricant were apropriate.
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 6:38:47 AM EDT
[#24]
Update 9-28- same thing today, after cleaning the entire bolt inside and out after total disassembly-no crud or anything, lubeing the entire weapon, still with no mag, just a shell---no ejection- this is with 40 grain Winchester HP's, my buffer only weighs 3.9oz the only thing I havent checked is to make sure the gas plug tube is in the right way, I have sprayed bore cleaner thru it and it did come out in the barrel, could it still be in the wrong way, I have tried everything yall have suggested, the only thing I havent done is buff the inside of the buffer tube, what good that would do, I got no idea, but right now Im ready to make a tomato stake out of it, keep the suggestions coming I dont go back to work till Friday. Thanks yall.
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 8:19:02 AM EDT
[#25]
Ok now IM lost, took out my gas tube, and it was in right, and I can blow air through it, Anybody got any other ideas?
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 9:32:03 AM EDT
[#26]
The only other thing that I have found out of ordinary, I just noticed when I took out the gas tube, it was straight, not the normal curve to it, does this matter or should I look somewhere else, I did the bolt drop test at 45 degrees and it locked up fine. Ideas?
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 12:44:00 PM EDT
[#27]
Is your stock collapsable, or an A2?  Are you sure you have the right spring?
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 12:46:38 PM EDT
[#28]

Quoted:
Is your stock collapsable, or an A2?  Are you sure you have the right spring?



Yeah its and older car collapsable 3 position, and its the same spring I ve always had
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 1:01:34 PM EDT
[#29]
Does the bolt turn in the carrier like I described earlier?  Can you slide the carrier in and out of the upper reciever easily?  How easy does the charging handle pull back the bolt when the upper and lower are closed?  I used some winchester 45 gr ammo that was extreamly fowling one time.  It was very acurate in my rifle, but after100 rnds or so my rifle would have trouble ejecting and feeding.  Try using some other ammo and see what happens.
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 1:13:16 PM EDT
[#30]

Quoted:
Does the bolt turn in the carrier like I described earlier?  Can you slide the carrier in and out of the upper reciever easily?  How easy does the charging handle pull back the bolt when the upper and lower are closed?  I used some winchester 45 gr ammo that was extreamly fowling one time.  It was very acurate in my rifle, but after100 rnds or so my rifle would have trouble ejecting and feeding.  Try using some other ammo and see what happens.



Yeah the bolt turns fine, I can slide the carrier in an out with no hangups or anything, I have used some 60 gran UMC and it does the same thing. Ive only got about 16 rounds of the 45 grain win thru it.  Would it matter if my gas tube as some how got bent to straight, when I took it out today it didnt have a curve to it, how far in should the gas tube go inside the upper, mine goes all the way to the cutout spot on the charging handle, when your looking at it from the bottom side, with no carrier in. Thanks
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 1:23:17 PM EDT
[#31]
With the charging handle in the upper reciever,  and the bolt carrier out, you should see about 3/4 of an inch of the gas tube sticking into to charging handle.  Your gas tube may not be lineing up with the carrier key.  Take the bolt out of the carrier and try sliding the carrier into the reciever.  If the carrier binds at all the carrier key is rubbing on the gas tube.
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 1:39:19 PM EDT
[#32]

Quoted:
With the charging handle in the upper reciever,  and the bolt carrier out, you should see about 3/4 of an inch of the gas tube sticking into to charging handle.  Your gas tube may not be lineing up with the carrier key.  Take the bolt out of the carrier and try sliding the carrier into the reciever.  If the carrier binds at all the carrier key is rubbing on the gas tube.




Nope, no binding at all, it locked right up with no bolt in.  Could the 45 grain ammo be so dang week it wont push the buffer I have that weighs 3.9 oz (108 grams)?
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 1:48:31 PM EDT
[#33]
Post more pictures.  Pictures looking up into the upper receiver with BC removed, any parts you've disassembled, your stock, spring, buffer, gas tube, etc.

Link Posted: 9/28/2005 1:52:20 PM EDT
[#34]

Quoted:
Post more pictures.  Pictures looking up into the upper receiver with BC removed, any parts you've disassembled, your stock, spring, buffer, gas tube, etc.





I will try, we have to leave for church within the hour, so it may be tonight before I get the pics loaded, thanks
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 2:07:05 PM EDT
[#35]
I dont know off hand what the actual buffer should way.  I would order a new one just to be safe,  Bushmaster has one for about $15.  Who ever you order one from, make sure it is a reputable company.  How is your hammer?  Can you reset your hammer easy with your thumb?  When you check it dont pull the triger and let fall against the bolt catch, pull the triger with the reciever halves open and ease the hammer forward.  Then let go of the triger, and push the hammer back until it catches the triger.
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 2:15:46 PM EDT
[#36]
What type of front sight base do you have, is it loose or canted?  This would not allow enough gas into the gas tube because the gas port would not be lined up with the hole in the front sight base.
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 2:20:35 PM EDT
[#37]
Ok here are some quick pics before we leave








Man I can break this thing down quick now lol.
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 2:22:11 PM EDT
[#38]

Quoted:
I dont know off hand what the actual buffer should way.  I would order a new one just to be safe,  Bushmaster has one for about $15.  Who ever you order one from, make sure it is a reputable company.  How is your hammer?  Can you reset your hammer easy with your thumb?  When you check it dont pull the triger and let fall against the bolt catch, pull the triger with the reciever halves open and ease the hammer forward.  Then let go of the triger, and push the hammer back until it catches the triger.



I got a guy sending me another car buffer, the hammer falls smoothly, easily even
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 2:23:22 PM EDT
[#39]

Quoted:
What type of front sight base do you have, is it loose or canted?  This would not allow enough gas into the gas tube because the gas port would not be lined up with the hole in the front sight base.



It came with the barrel, the barrel is marked DSC 1-9 and I got it from J&T, it is is straight
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 2:29:58 PM EDT
[#40]
One thing I have not heard anybody suggest is to take the carrier with the bolt installed and the cam and firing out. Hold the carrier with the bolt down. If the bolt drops out of the carrier then the gas rings are shot! Replace the gas rings.

Link Posted: 9/28/2005 2:31:57 PM EDT
[#41]

Quoted:
Take a brass hammer lay the mag on the table and smack the side of it. Not too hard. I had a bulged mag I did to an now it works great.

Sounds like all of your problems are mag related. Bolt over base failures are very common and are mag related.

The other thing you need to look at the the mag release. If it is too tight, the mag will not lock up right.

Good luck!




I thought that to, but the problems I got now, Im having with no mag in at all, thanks I will try it though
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 2:48:23 PM EDT
[#42]
Did this bolt come with the upper reciever, or is it from another upper?  The lugs aren't binding at all right?  What is that stuff in your buffer tube, it looks like metal shavings.
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 2:48:23 PM EDT
[#43]
Wow I've never dared to take off my FSB!!

Is that how the gas tube is installed?  Or is it just stuck in the FSB loosely? Kinda looks sideways to me.  
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 5:25:01 PM EDT
[#44]

Quoted:
Wow I've never dared to take off my FSB!!

Is that how the gas tube is installed?  Or is it just stuck in the FSB loosely? Kinda looks sideways to me.  



In the last two days, I ve gotten where I can break it down, except for taking the barrel off, in about 10 min.  That is my question about the gas tube, it should have a curve to it and mine is pretty much straight, the tube is held into the fsb by a pin, its alot easier for me to knock out the two pins that hold on the fsb and knock it off than to remove and have to realign the gas tube and the itty bitty pin that holds it in. I learned this when I put on the free floated yhm forend. Still cant figure it out, I may try to find some hotter ammo when we go out tomorrow, anyone got any suggestions at Wally world, thats the only thing I got close to me to buy ammo from. It sure seems like Im runnng out of ideas, dont it.  One member here is sending me a standard car buffer for the cost of shipping, what a great thing to do huh, so I will try it when it gets here, but still, from what Ive read about people using heavy 9mm buffers with no problem, I wouldnt have thought 3.9 oz would have been too heavy. Do any of you think it may be the straight gas tube, how it got straight Ill never know, it when in curved, unless, it happened when I torqued the free float tube down and the vise slipped, which may have allowed the tupe to twist. I dunno.
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 5:47:45 PM EDT
[#45]
Have you taken the gas tube out of the FSB?  That's how you will know if it is in correctly.  The hole in the tube will be pointing down and the hole in the gas port (barrel) will be facing up.

If I were a betting man that's where I'd put my $$ (after seeing everything else you've gone through.)
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 6:02:17 PM EDT
[#46]

Quoted:
Have you taken the gas tube out of the FSB?  That's how you will know if it is in correctly.  The hole in the tube will be pointing down and the hole in the gas port (barrel) will be facing up.

If I were a betting man that's where I'd put my $$ (after seeing everything else you've gone through.)






+1  that gas tube doesnot look right
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 6:05:18 PM EDT
[#47]

Quoted:
One thing I have not heard anybody suggest is to take the carrier with the bolt installed and the cam and firing out. Hold the carrier with the bolt down. If the bolt drops out of the carrier then the gas rings are shot! Replace the gas rings.


This sounds like a good idea too,  I never heard of this trouble shot before but it makes sense
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 6:37:58 PM EDT
[#48]

Quoted:
Have you taken the gas tube out of the FSB?  That's how you will know if it is in correctly.  The hole in the tube will be pointing down and the hole in the gas port (barrel) will be facing up.

If I were a betting man that's where I'd put my $$ (after seeing everything else you've gone through.)



Well I thought that, but without taking the tube out of the fsb I can see the hole in the tube, and its aligned with the hole in the fsb-thanks for the idea though
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 6:40:05 PM EDT
[#49]

Quoted:

Quoted:
One thing I have not heard anybody suggest is to take the carrier with the bolt installed and the cam and firing out. Hold the carrier with the bolt down. If the bolt drops out of the carrier then the gas rings are shot! Replace the gas rings.


This sounds like a good idea too,  I never heard of this trouble shot before but it makes sense




Trying now.....with the fireing pin out, the pin on the side, I can shake the carrier and the bolt doesnt fall out, I have to pull it. Thanks for that tip, I hadnt done that one yet
Link Posted: 9/28/2005 6:42:57 PM EDT
[#50]

Quoted:
Did this bolt come with the upper reciever, or is it from another upper?  The lugs aren't binding at all right?  What is that stuff in your buffer tube, it looks like metal shavings.



No it didnt come with the upper, but I have had the upper for awhile, and it worked fine on my essential arms lower, and it was snug on there, on the bushy there is a tinnnnnny amount of play, not enough for a accu wedge, but it is there, but not out of normal- the stuff in the buffer tube is just shinny where I have cleaned and oiled it, there is no metal shavings in there, I keep checking
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