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This setup is lighter than the stock handguards...
I run a 20 inch barrel with fixed FSB for my blog. Im thinking I am going to get my hands on this system soon. Do you need any special tools for installation? I have a barrel nut wrench, and can remove the FSB with no issue. |
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Quoted:
This setup is lighter than the stock handguards... I run a 20 inch barrel with fixed FSB for my blog. Im thinking I am going to get my hands on this system soon. Do you need any special tools for installation? I have a barrel nut wrench, and can remove the FSB with no issue. It does not work with a standard barrel nut wrench but the handguard comes with a wrench and special barrel nut. The barrel nut is sort of a reversed standard nut, that is, the teeth are on the rear rather than on the front, if you try to use a standard armorers wrench it will not fit over the body of the nut. The DPMS Multi-Tool wrench will fit with the scalloped side but not the prong side. I do not know about other brands of multi-tools but I have tried and used the DPMS unit and it works. Will fit: 
Will not fit: 
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Quoted: It does not work with a standard barrel nut wrench but the handguard comes with a wrench and special barrel nut. The barrel nut is sort of a reversed standard nut, that is, the teeth are on the rear rather than on the front, if you try to use a standard armorers wrench it will not fit over the body of the nut. The DPMS Multi-Tool wrench will fit with the scalloped side but not the prong side. I do not know about other brands of multi-tools but I have tried and used the DPMS unit and it works. Will fit: http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/products/p_231000007_1.jpg Will not fit: http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/products/p_080216015_1.jpg Quoted: Quoted: This setup is lighter than the stock handguards... I run a 20 inch barrel with fixed FSB for my blog. Im thinking I am going to get my hands on this system soon. Do you need any special tools for installation? I have a barrel nut wrench, and can remove the FSB with no issue. It does not work with a standard barrel nut wrench but the handguard comes with a wrench and special barrel nut. The barrel nut is sort of a reversed standard nut, that is, the teeth are on the rear rather than on the front, if you try to use a standard armorers wrench it will not fit over the body of the nut. The DPMS Multi-Tool wrench will fit with the scalloped side but not the prong side. I do not know about other brands of multi-tools but I have tried and used the DPMS unit and it works. Will fit: http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/products/p_231000007_1.jpg Will not fit: http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/products/p_080216015_1.jpg SASS |
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Quoted: Awesome MI. Thanks. Check the install vid for the G2 SS...other than the handguard itself...the install is the Same.... Installation of The Gen 2 SS Free Float Handguard - YouTube Hope it Helps... SASS |
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How can you disagree, I did not mention the SE armorer's wrench., which is not the standard Armorer's wrench now is it? Besides, the SEI Armorer's wrench, #1035, looks very much like the DPMS wrench which is the one I said DID work.
The mil-spec Armorer's wrench, the one I said did not work is this one and the one I pictured, Brownells, also will not work. |
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Easy Bro...My apologies...I miss read what you posted.... As for the SE wrench...well it is the only wrench I have ever known or used besides the one MI supplies with their handguards.... The SE was suggested to me by one of the Armorers from ArmaLite...so I figured it was the standard... Again My Bad... SASS |
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...I figured it was the standard… God how I wish it were. The so called milspec armorer wrench, IMO is about as worthless as tits on a boar hog. It does not fit any heavy barrel, at least not what I call a heavy barrel, and it has none of the extras on it like you have on the multiple tools. And with only three contact points, you get a really stubborn barrel nut and it will break off an ear in nothing flat so you really have to watch what you are doing when using it on tough nuts. When I started buying my tools, I fell for the milspec BS, I thought, "Ooooooooh, milspec, that's what I need." Milspec armorers wrench, so called milspec CAR stock wrench…I'm surprised I did not buy a 'milspec' screw driver for the butt stock and a 'milspec' gunsmiths apron. One wrench, like the SEI one you have, pretty much does it all. And that scalloped side that fits the standard barrel nut, there are so many contact points it makes it almost impossible to break off a tooth. I am glad you got the good SEI wrench because the ancient DPMS that I have is a swing and a miss. The parts that work, work very well, but the CAR castle nut part sheared off the first time I used it. Good thing I had a 'milspec' castle nut wrench in the drawer. The screw driver on the back of mine that is supposed to work on the butt stock screw is too fat to come close to going into the screw, maybe it is really a chisel?, and the two prongs for DPMS free float barrel nuts is spread or something, because they don't fit anything. Good back scratcher though. They come really close to fitting DPMS free float barrel nuts and YHM barrel nuts but they are just a red headed eyelash too far apart. The scalloped barrel nut wrench though is the cat's pajamas. That's really the only reason I keep it around. It makes putting on a standard barrel nut assembly cake. The notches for the flash suppressor and rifle receiver extension work just as they should too. I would think the SEI is a much better wrench because honestly, when I bought the DPMS unit it was under $15, so it has been a loooong while back. The price for them now is about three times more so I hope they have the bugs worked out now. I doubt there were any bugs in the SEI unit that ever needed working out. Live and learn I guess! |
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Quoted: I doubt there were any bugs in the SEI unit that ever needed working out. Quoted: ...I figured it was the standard… I doubt there were any bugs in the SEI unit that ever needed working out. and if worse came to worse...you could easily CRACK someone's skull with it...LOL, if you had too.... Back to topic though.... The SSK is one of the most Outstanding Handguards I think From MI...As what was posted in another thread...I think by you...Since my First one, I have never looked or considered another HG and Never Looked Back...Once you go MI...the rest are just names... SASS |
. Troy. MI
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Nice rifle! Wheres your trigger group and safety? |
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Quoted:
Nice rifle! Wheres your trigger group and safety? Quoted:
Nice rifle! Wheres your trigger group and safety? I was one of the lucky ones to jump on the Geissele sale that Bill posted a week or so back. Hopefully it ships this week. I went ahead and installed the standard Trigger because I planned on going to shoot Saturday but it was really cold so I wimped out. thread |
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any chance of a lenth in-between a 12 and a 15 in? Large market for that size for those using the popular 14.5 in barrel and don't want to see much of it. Right now the 15 is too long and the 12 too short IMHO. The 12" Is actualy about 12.5" and it's plenty long for a 14.5" barrel. Just look at the 12" on the 16" barrel, and mentally chop off 1.5" to the barrel length that way. You know of course that a 14.5" barrel is only 14" until the threading starts for your muzzle device... |
Done the "mental chopping", thanks. Still would prefer something that falls between 12 and 15 in. I would really prefer not to see any part of my barrel at all. Would use the 15 in (have one for a 18in build BTW) if some of the various muzzle device vents were not goint to vent into it so to speak. Did that make sense? 
Besides visual preference of not seeing the barrel, goal is to get that front sight post as far out as possible. And finally, the MI Keymod is the lightest around. This is a LW build! Sure I could buy the Noveske model, but who wants to pay an extra $60+? |
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Quoted:
Done the "mental chopping", thanks. Still would prefer something that falls between 12 and 15 in. I would really prefer not to see any part of my barrel at all. Would use the 15 in (have one for a 18in build BTW) if some of the various muzzle device vents were not goint to vent into it so to speak. Did that make sense?
Well, as I previously said, the 12" is actually 12.5" long. There is no way they will make another model that is 1" longer in the near future. Why? As a manufacturer it really doesn't make sense to carry an overabundance of sizes. That increases your costs and decreases your profits. It increases the number of models you need to manufacture, stock, track, ship, etc. But, I understand your preference. Maybe in a couple weeks I can post pics of a 14.5" barrel with a (12.5") handguard. |
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Just curious.... what are some # numbers when torquing the barrel nut? On the package it says between 30# and 60#... mine was either on the too low side 28# or on the high side with 60# 30 to 60 foot pounds will usually get you in the window for most uppers. If you are using a GI armorers wrench that works with our barrel nut (like the DPMS tool) then you can go to a maximum of 80 foot pounds of torque. When installing the barrel nut I highly recommend you grease the barrel nut threads, and the front of the barrel extension. Tighten and loosen the barrel nut to 30 foot pounds three times, this will burnish the receiver threads and give you a true torque. Then torque the barrel nut to 30 foot pounds, then to the next gas tube cut not exceeding 80 foot pounds. If it will not line please send me an email and I can try to help you out. Thank You Andy MI |
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Andy, any idea on the color of the FDE SSK tube? I asked a question about this on the previous page. Sorry I missed your post, I do not have a color code for our FDE. It can be close to Magpul at times and other times it's a little lighter in color. If you have any questions send me and email and I can try to help. Thank You Andy MI |
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30 to 60 foot pounds will usually get you in the window for most uppers. If you are using a GI armorers wrench that works with our barrel nut (like the DPMS tool) then you can go to a maximum of 80 foot pounds of torque. When installing the barrel nut I highly recommend you grease the barrel nut threads, and the front of the barrel extension. Tighten and loosen the barrel nut to 30 foot pounds three times, this will burnish the receiver threads and give you a true torque. Then torque the barrel nut to 30 foot pounds, then to the next gas tube cut not exceeding 80 foot pounds. If it will not line please send me an email and I can try to help you out. Thank You Andy MI Quoted:
Quoted:
Just curious.... what are some # numbers when torquing the barrel nut? On the package it says between 30# and 60#... mine was either on the too low side 28# or on the high side with 60# 30 to 60 foot pounds will usually get you in the window for most uppers. If you are using a GI armorers wrench that works with our barrel nut (like the DPMS tool) then you can go to a maximum of 80 foot pounds of torque. When installing the barrel nut I highly recommend you grease the barrel nut threads, and the front of the barrel extension. Tighten and loosen the barrel nut to 30 foot pounds three times, this will burnish the receiver threads and give you a true torque. Then torque the barrel nut to 30 foot pounds, then to the next gas tube cut not exceeding 80 foot pounds. If it will not line please send me an email and I can try to help you out. Thank You Andy MI My barrel nut wouldn't line up following the above. Went up to 65 # and tooth in the middle of hole. Sent email. |
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I have run into this with just about every brand or type of forend rail and barrel nut at one time or another on my builds. What I do is, as Andy said, lube up the nut and I just keep tightening it and backing it off. I go up to 70-80 ft-lbs, then back it off. Go up to 70-80 ft-lbs, then back it off… Each time you get a little further. Plus, I square the front of my receivers before doing anything, so there is no wearing in at the front.
I just keep doing it until it lines up. Attaching a barrel nut is not rocket surgery and if you keep tightening it and backing off you will get there eventually as the threads seat more. If you cannot bring yourself to do this and a lot of people cannot, Brownells sells indexing shims for the front of the receiver. That is a quick and easy way to get your barrel nut timed. Or you could lap more off using the lapping tool, although I personally advise against using the tool for this purpose. Some do but I won't. |
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My barrel nut wouldn't line up following the above. Went up to 65 # and tooth in the middle of hole. Sent email. I didn't get it, please send it to [email protected] and I'll make sure you get fixed up. Thank You Andy MI |
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What is the barrel nut I.D. ? Wishing it would fit over my heavy barrel... Quoted:
What is the barrel nut I.D. ? Wishing it would fit over my heavy barrel... from page one: The MI-SSK-12 weighs 8.5oz WITH the barrel nut, actual length is 12.625", OD is 1.5", ID is 1.3". You should be good to go. |
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I installed a 10.5in on a friends AR this weekend and I must say this is my favorite handguard to date!
The weight, the small OD, everything about the handguard feels so good! Its about half an inch too long to work with my 10.5in SBR and QD can... Thinking of going to an 11.5in barrel just so I can use this handguard! |
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hello? Quoted:
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any chance of a 13-13.5 size coming out? hello? Probably not. They make a 12.5" and a 15". But who knows, people are asking. I got my 12.5" today, looks beautiful, feels sturdy. I like the rail/barrel nut interface. It's pretty much like the TROY I have should have been. |
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Probably not. They make a 12.5" and a 14". But who knows, people are asking. I got my 12.5" today, looks beautiful, feels sturdy. I like the rail/barrel nut interface. It's pretty much like the TROY I have should have been. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
any chance of a 13-13.5 size coming out? hello? Probably not. They make a 12.5" and a 14". But who knows, people are asking. I got my 12.5" today, looks beautiful, feels sturdy. I like the rail/barrel nut interface. It's pretty much like the TROY I have should have been. They do NOT make a 14! 
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