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Posted: 3/13/2015 9:17:29 PM EDT
New to the forum, thought i would post my solution to the powder spill indexing problem. I used the shim idea but instead of trying to get it exact just use about .010. remove the bolt that secures the shell plate and install a 3/8"16 x2 stud with locktite. Do not bottom it out, it causes the hub to bind. let the loctite dry for a few hrs and install your shell plate and 2 nuts. tighten the first nut until the plate binds them back it out slowly until the shell plate moves freely. Use the top nut to lock the bottom nut. loaded up 1000 .223 and 300 9mm without a single problem.
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Posted: 3/13/2015 9:35:41 PM EDT
[#1]
Welcome to Arfcom and the Reloading Forum.
Would you also add your post to this thread, This is a "toggled" thread so it won't slip into the archives. Can't comment on your post as I have no experience with a LNL being a Dillon guy. There is plenty of room on this forum for both.  And the RCBS guys also.  eta, almost forgot the Lee guys, sorry. |
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Posted: 3/13/2015 9:55:16 PM EDT
[#2]
Thanks for posting.
Nothing wrong with new ideas. |
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Posted: 3/13/2015 11:03:46 PM EDT
[#3]
I think this is brilliant! It makes sense.
How sensitive is the threads per inch to get the thousandth or two to get a good fit? And this method would not require removal of the sub-plate? Did you notice case tilt on the 223 rounds? I did use shims on mine, but I think this would be great to ensure a perfect fit for each shell plate which could have some variation. It would slightly increase the amount of time spent changing shellplates but not bad. |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 6:59:35 PM EDT
[#4]
I tried this and think it works pretty well. I have only loaded a test run of about 30 rounds but seems to take out the shake and indexes well. I did have to adjust the pawl slightly. Thanks for the tip.
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Posted: 4/3/2015 11:28:03 AM EDT
[#5]
Another solution:
Give half the cases a light spray of Hornady One Shot. I did this and my LnL AP runs smooth as silk now. Even on .357 Mag cases very full of H110, not a single flake has jumped out of a case in a 200 round session. |
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Posted: 4/3/2015 4:39:09 PM EDT
[#6]
I thought the pawl adjustment was working for most folks? Mine is a little snappy but the plate is snug. I figured the ball detent springs needed a 1/4 curl cut off or adjust the pawls. I only get the occasional flakes and bullet feeder works well.
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Posted: 4/3/2015 6:40:54 PM EDT
[#7]
All my shell plates were different thicknesses so shimmy each plate every time was just too time consuming. By using the double nut you can control the tension on plate without having to tighten it down(if that makes sense). It also solved my .020 oal seating problem at the end of then run when not all the stations were being used.
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Posted: 4/3/2015 6:47:57 PM EDT
[#8]
I've found that by adjusting the ball detents and using a split washer under the plate screw things are much improved.
You can adjust the detent balls by tapping on them with a small punch. Ymmv of course. |
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Posted: 4/3/2015 6:52:26 PM EDT
[#9]
It's often hard to figure out if the problem one seems to share with other reloaders (eg powder popping) will be fixed by any one specific mod until you try it.
My powder popping was addressed without shimming, just adjusting the shellplate ball bearing heights. But I sure am glad the OP has given us another tool in the bag of tricks. The "double-nut" approach is IMO far superior to, eg, adding a lockwasher to the shellplate retaining bolt like I did. The lockwasher can make the shellplate seem tight, but still let it rise enough under press leverage to cause multiple other issues. |
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Posted: 4/5/2015 12:51:23 AM EDT
[#10]
Where can I get a 3/8 16 stud? Just cut down a bolt? My Home Depot has no studs.
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Posted: 4/5/2015 8:51:50 AM EDT
[#11]
Got mine at fastenal. Cutting down a bolt will also work. The stud has the Allen head in it, which would be easier if you ever had to get it out.
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