A couple of weeks ago, our youngest son (now 32--my how time flies when you're having fun) got his pistol permit.

I invited him to go to an IDPA match at our local club.  

I had him shoot my Armsco Rock Island 1911 Tactical 9 mm that has had fewer than 100 rounds through it.

On his VERY first stage, the ARI fired one round and the next round failed to go to battery.  He cleared it and went on BUT at the last target on that stage the same thing happened.

Wouldn't you know it I didn't bring any gun lubrication so we popped the hood on my Tahoe and lubed the ARI up and it ran the rest of the day.

At the end of the shoot, I was discussing lubricants with fellow shooters and half a dozen of them said "We all use Frog Lube.  You clean the gun, heat it with a blow dryer, apply the Frog Lube, let it cool back to room temperature, and you're done".

So bought some from Midway USA (8 oz bottle and 6 small packets).

I cleaned my .223 Rem AR and both my 1911 stye pistols and then following the proceedure, used the Frog Lube on them.

I AM IMPRESSED with the Frog Lube!  All of the firearms with the Frog Lube run flawlessly.

Have any of you used it and how did you like it?

I also like the fact that it is biodegradeable and non-toxic too so that I don't have to worry about the dog or grandchildren getting sick from swallowing it.

Using a blow dryer to lube your gun???  

I use RAND CLP, new product just came out.  No need to heat, 'green', veggie oil based, safe on all woods/polymers/metals.  I used it on a really dirty glock and AR and wiped the carbon away with a few drops.  Ran 1,000 rounds through both and stripped it and still wet and carbon wiped off with a dry cloth.  Relubed with a few drops, ready to go.

Also, put it in my safe for about a month, took it out, no rust, no running of the product.  Good stuff.

jonny

I used to use it. Had corrosion issues and didn't really like how it made the weapon feel. Disliked the marketing, and the shady business between the companies making it, and SEAL 1. Stopped and went to something different.

I also am using Rand CLP, currently. I don't have enough personal experience to vouch for it yet, but the lab data looks great. Before that, I had gone to MPRO-7 LPX, which did very well for me.

First post?

I like it too.  I'm not a believer that anything is a "wonder-lube" but these days there are a lot of options out there that work.  Froglube is among them; at least it has been in my experience.   Quick summary below...

I have used it on my weapons with success. Heat the parts with a heat gun, apply, let dry, then wipe off. When I clean the weapon, Cleans easy and apply just a small amount of the liquid with a Q- tip to the metal  to metal areas.   Have not had any issues with it

I'm slowly transitioning from:



KG1, followed by KG2, followed by KG3, followed by KG4



To:



Frog Lube.

I personally wouldn't use it for everything, but it seems decent for barrels (non-corrosive ammo).

Covered a patch in frog lube, blow dry to heat it up, shove through barrel while twisting, blow dry barrel to heat.  If there is too much in there at that point, I'll push a dry patch through and call it good.

I feel it has better staying power than oil in a barrel and from what I read, it makes it 'slick' and could potentially increase velocity.

I just use MOBIL-1 synthetic 5w-30 motor oil

been using it for years, great stuff

I use it and really like it.  Works well.  Plus it's non-toxic and smells good.  win/win/win.

Read some old threads.  Frog Lube is viewed as an expensive marketing gimmick by many.

I use Eezox for storage and corrosion, and Super Lube for all friction parts.

I like Mobile 1,and doubt I will switch soon.

We often get into this issue , sometimes it even gets to be a pissing match (hope this one does not )


Here is my take on this-Pick a oil or lube and  (wait for it,,,,,,) USE IT!

The OP had a nearly new gun and went to a match without any oil? Not clear if he had lubed it before the match but sounds like he did not.

I know stuff happens before a match , double that when one is hustling around trying to fix up borrowed equipment for a new shooter

We then get into a huge deal about which lube is the only one to use but the majority of all lubrication issues are solved by just using any lube at all!

No desire to pick on the OP , I have been in similar situations at a match

I am not advocating using a certain brand of lube and do believe that people come to these forums to exchange idea's and learn about new products.

A few months back I had an opportunity to chat with the head of R&D at EXXON/MOBILE corp. While chatting I brought up that I was using Mobile 1 on my AR15 (PWS) and I was wondering if there were any problems that I should be aware of in doing so..

Without hesitation he told me that was a bad idea! He told me motor oils are blended with high grade detergents and most of the synthetic brands have an additive that keeps the seals in engines from shrinking. These additives are highly toxic and cause cancer. I told him that I avoided getting on my skin and only used it in small amounts. He response was motor oils are meant to be used for inside an engine and that's it! When you fire a weapon you are basically inhaling mist cloud of lubricant and toxic exposure to you is very high!

Long story short there is something to said for these new bio lubes that are hitting the market..

I emailed MOBIL 1 years ago because i heard rumors about
Cancer causing chemicals in motor oil

They replied and said it was perfectly safe
Said the toxins occur in USED motor oil

I have an old bottle of Mil-Spec surplus CLP
that has trichlorethelene in it

Between that and growing up putting hoppes #9
On my breakfest cereal i figure im already dammed

( spell check be dammed.   Posted frm my cell phone )

LOL! Yes most CLP's on the market are Chlorinated paraffins and other nasty things. But his point was that it may not cause cancer to the skin but the seal swell agent is toxic when breathed in. They are not required to list that on there msds because the EPA/USDA only requires it if there is 5% or more of the additive. My brother is an engineer with EXXON/MOBILE he uses an upper cylinder lube for his guns an loves it.. We are probably eating worse in our foods now a days and just though I would share this info.

I've used the liquid on ARs, shotguns and pistols, no heating, just as more of a spot lube.
It doen't remove crud like CLP, but it stays in place and works fine, and smells like wintergreen

Just out of curiosity, what is to dislike about the marketing of Frog Lube?  Also, what is going on between the companies making it?  And the SEAL 1 deal?  Just curious......

Slip 2000 EWL for me

I predict with a high level of certainty that you will die

You form your own conclusions:

http://www.trillium-solutions.net/
http://www.linkedin.com/pub/scott-lee/a/aa5/b72
http://www.seal1.net/

Lots of other information has vanished, such as the .gov "Bio-preferred" list listing Froglube, and SEAL 1, as products of Trillium Solutions.

Any lube that says you need to take a hair dryer to it is a joke.  This is simply a gimmick and has no basis in fact.  Any chemical "activation" will occur under the heat and asperity collisions of parts moving together.

My guess is that a large majority of the naysayers have yet to use froglube.  Try it. You'll like it.

I have used many different lubricants on my firearms from Hoppes gun oil (basicly DTE lite/10 weight non degergent oil), Remoil (probably a refined DET lite), silicone based lube, Mobil 1 5W20, and now Frog Lube.

IMHO, ANY lubricant is better than NONE!

When my brand new hardly fired rmscor Rock Island 1911 Tactical 9 mm that my son was shooting failed to go to battery (becasue I didn't lube it enough), we field stripped the slide assembly off, pulled the engine oil dip stick (just changed the oil in the Tahoe with Castrol Syn Blend), and lubed it with multiple dollops of engine oil.  Result:  he had NO failure to go to battery on the next six stages (astually, seven, as they let him reshoot the stage that it failed to go to battery!)

Understand that this pistol had less than 150 (probably less than that) rounds through it.  EVERYONE there said it would take MANY rounds before it was "broken in" which I completely agree with.

I admit that I'm too stingy with lubrication on my firearms which I have since that day retrained myself to get more lube on my ARs and my 1911's.

Not to say I don't keep my guns lubed, but I don't want them to be so close to the point of non-function that a couple drops of lube is the only thing keeping them running.

The only guns I've been around that wouldn't function unless they were sopping wet in lube were some "high dollar" 1911's that were tight as a drum, a couple semi shotguns, and some homebuilt AR's that didn't use quality components...

I'm not saying don't lube your guns, that would be silly, but I've run a couple of my AR's through several hundred rounds of steel case without a drop of lube just to see how they would run, and had no problems.

I seriously doubt that

lol, telling comment and I found it kinda funny. I like the stuff and it has given me almost no problems in around a year of using it. I have no intentions of switching anytime soon.

cold weather use is fine ime as long as your not leaving gobs of paste in there at pretty low temps. at first I had a few malfs in the beginning of winter ~20*-30*, pulled carrier and wiped excess off on my shirt and the thing ran fine. all cold weather use after that went as planned with lube applied lightly and liquid only, I mainly like the wipe and its clean part and the smell is decent. tastes like shit though, had to try it.

fwiw, ive tried seal 1 and t/c bore butter 2000 synthetic or some such nonsense on a sti 1911 and a g 23 respectively and pretty much had the same results with both of those as well. same smell, taste, consistency of paste, just different colors and prices and the Thompson stuff is available at 24 hr. wally marts.

I tried it. Did not. Don't anymore.

Results?

-Weapon felt gritty
-Rust on bolt-tail
-Was very nice in that before I left the range, it did "dry up" (solidify) and no oil ran onto the zip-up case or into the car (I run my stuff WET).


Only time I ever had an AR rust. The gritty? Who knows. Maybe MK318 is dirty stuff.

I found it cleans surprisingly well. I completely cleaned my AR with rubbing alcohol and break cleaner. Using a warmed cotton ball of FL, it still pulled surface carbon. So far, this stuff is pretty good. Best part, I can clean up and maintain my guns inside with the AC versus hiding in the hot garage over fumes. Smells nice, too.

I like it, it seems to work better than Hopes eleite or mobile 1 because it stays on the bolt without evaporating.  I went through a 16 hour carbine class without a malfuncton or cleaning so it passes that test for me.  I also run it on my glocks.

I bought the small plastic packets and a bottle of Frog Lube.  I used it on all three of my 1911's, and all of my ARs.  I like the results as I haven't had one malfunction attributed to insufficient lubrication with any of my firearms.

As the firearms get hot from running ammo through them, I can smell the From Lube.  It smells like Heat Linament to me!

I've used it on handguns. Both the paste and the liquid. Prefer the paste. the liquid is clumpy.  Prefer FP-10 to Froglube though. wont be buying more.

I use the paste mostly, after I shoot I clean it well most carbon and grime wipe right off. Gotta scrub some areas. Lather up my bcg inner of the upper and fcg. Assemble, heat with high heat blow dryer or heat gun let it run to the hard to reach spots. And let cool. Wipe excess off. Ready for more fun. 2 thumbs up.

I've used frog lube on my S&W M&Ps, two ARs (Frankenrifle and Stoner SR15E3) and a Springer MC Operator.... absolutely no issues at all!  I carry slip 2000 EWL in my range bag just in case, but have yet to use it to get one of my weapons to free up and return to battery during normal cycle of operations.  On the ARs, I just use a small brush to put the FL all over the bolt and heat it up after to soak it in.... no worries from this side of the house.

Based on my unfavorable results with the liquid frog lube I'm supposedly going to get an improved clp and the new solvent to try.

ETA: Anyone tried the solvent?

I was a Mobile 1 goober for a long time too.  Took me a long time to wake up.

For AR... froglube stays and lasts WAY longer.

When i'd pull an AR out of the safe that'd sat for a while... all the mobile 1 had run off of the critical areas... bolt, etc.  But Froglube sets up and start flowing again.

I talked to the Frog Lube guys at the recent NRA convention here.  Bought some and tried.  I have been very impressed.  I even invested in a small crock pot for the garage.  I have it half filled with FL.  It is great for cooking FL into BCGs, pistols and even some reloading press parts.
Great stuff in my opinion.  

I think the moral of the story is that everything *works* and that we all have personal preferences but the reality of it is that there isn't any evidence that Slip 2000, Frog Lube, CLP or synthetic motor oil is any better than the other.  The market is flooded with viable solutions to lubricating your weapon and the brands need to differentiate themselves.  So you get stuff coming to market with arbitrary numbers thrown at the end of them (slip 2000) or gimmicks like lumpy lube that gives you minty fresh breath (frog lube).  Then you get everyone coming in here with their anecdotal evidence and they all have good intentions and want to provide their experience if it will help another.  The problem is that humans on their own are horrible at making observations and are unreliable for fact gathering without some help of the scientific process.  If you are in search of the worlds best gun lube you need some scientific process applied.

My general rule of thumb when making decisions like this is:  Always buy the cheapest name brand product that advertises as being a solution to the task at hand.  So I will buy Slip 2000, hoppes, CLP, etc. because they have to maintain their integrity as a respected gun enthusiast product.  Capitalism is your friend and they want to make money.  If they released an untested product that damaged their customers firearms they would be out of business.  I would also trust anything that has specific tolerances and regulations applied to it that is used in a similar application.  So really any synthetic motor oil I would be comfortable with.  I hate just saying 'mil-spec' is best but you can be assured whatever is 'mil-spec' was tested to certain tolerances and have to meet government requirements.  So that is also another guaranteed choice you can make.

I did a half-assed search but one of the first links I came up with was this.  It is a good read or at least a once over.
http://www.frfrogspad.com/cleaners.htm

What do I use for my AR build and I have been using on my pistols for awhile now?  Slip 2000 because it was what my LGS had and I don't use a ton of lube so I usually sit with a single bottle for very long periods of time.  Guess what?  It works.  In a few months I might switch to synthetic motor oil because the cost per ounce is very low but it isn't very practical for lubing only in small amounts. So who knows, haha

I like the crock pot idea.  I have a small one that I've been trying to find a use for.



 

I went back to trying FL early this summer, because I was missing its great lube properties as far as making the bolt feel like it was on ball baring's, and the nicer smell.I did both of my ar's, and one had been sitting in the safe since May while I was working up a good 77gr SMK load for the other one.

I pulled it out today to go use it, because I already had a 77gr load that worked for it, and I want to just shoot for fun today without the burden of testing loads for once, and I had 3 separate miss fires, light primmer strikes.

When I took it apart, the firing pin was all sluggish, and gummy feeling. I cleaned it out with some break cleaner, and just used some other CLP I had in my bag, and re-charged the same 3 rounds, after re-testing them in a case gauge, and they all went bang.

I don't think the FL was 100% to blame for the misfires, but I'm willing to bet that it made the matter worse. The firing pin was sticky in the BCG, and had to be hit on the bench to get it to drop free. I had only fired 60 rds, so it's not like it was really carbon'ed up.

No more FL for me. Gave it a second chance, and it failed. Even if I didn't have the misfires, I didn't like the way it got all gummy from sitting for a while. Most lubes will just dry up, and not get all sticky after sitting.

To me, it's not about whether a lube is miraculous or not… They ALL "work" they all do what they are supposed to well enough. They lube, they clean, they protect. But some of us want a non-toxic lube. That is where FL (and maybe others?) shine. No pun intended. : ) As far as expense. You can't just look at the the price per ounce.. FL lasts a long time.

I

All lubes I've used work on my AR but since I've been using frog lube my AR cleans up much faster. I enjoy just being able to wipe everything clean with a rag with the exception of punching the bore and chamber out with the liquid frog lube. Short story, I had a batch of tula that ran really dirty and would foul the chamber really fast cause cases to get stuck in the chamber. I decided to use frog lube and heated the chamber up and put FL in it and let it sit for an hour and wiped it out. Since then I haven't had issues with that batch of tula. Did it magically fix the problem? Maybe  maybe not. More than likely it just prevents the fouling from sticking inside the chamber longer than Rem oil did and I haven't shot enough of that ammo to have the problem again. I do like the smell and I can clean at the kitchen table now instead of in the garage(it gets hot in Florida).

It shouldn't feel gummy if you followed the direction correctly. Any excess froglube should be wiped off after you apply it to the heated parts and let it sit for an hour.

I did follow the directions every time I used it, and FL failed me. YMMV.
feel gummy is the key word here. Sorry to disappoint a fanboy, but that's what happened. Sounds to me like your the one FL fanboy who is "but hurt" over his beloved FL not working out for some,

Just because some are not satisfied with it, doesn't mean you need to insult them in a tech forum.

Removed - Andrewphillipf

I'm not a fanboy, if you read my first post you would know that. I just put slip 2000 on one of my AR's so I can try it next range trip. I'm all about finding the best lube and FL is the best I've used thus far but maybe I'll like how slip 2000 works.

Are we really going to bring that computer nerd, childish term into tech?

The irony in this term is that the maturity level of aping this nonsense puts one right into the category he's trying to project onto others.

So the guy with over a thousand post already that just joined in June is calling "me" a computer nerd
Getting a little but hurt 13'Er?

Get out of TECH.

Go post in the GD with your 13r buddies.

So this is how you got your post count so high. Your the one who personally attacked me here. I did nothing to you Skippy. I defended myself from a blanket statement attacking me in a tech forum firing back with a blanket statement. You need to get out of moms basement every now and then.

***Your the one***  Should be You're the one. If you're going to talk trash to people at least learn how to spell correctly.

Too funny...

And your username is too much! (or TO much for gman556)