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Posted: 6/3/2012 6:12:59 AM EDT
[#1]
Invest in one of these.
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Posted: 6/3/2012 6:14:58 AM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
Invest in one of these. http://www.forkparty.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Honey-Badger-With-Snake.jpg Backordered on Amazon. TRG |
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Posted: 6/3/2012 6:20:05 AM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Invest in one of these. http://www.forkparty.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Honey-Badger-With-Snake.jpg Backordered on Amazon. TRG Damn.  
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Posted: 6/3/2012 6:27:34 AM EDT
[#4]
only way we've ever caught snakes is after they've eaten the eggs/chicks and get hung up in the 1" chicken wire trying to escape the coop.
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Posted: 6/3/2012 9:03:51 AM EDT
[#5]
I am going to see if this works:
I placed a towel that my hens lay on in a nest inside the bucket. I also put an egg in there. It is under the intake tube, so the snake will need to stick at least 1' of his body inside. the end of the metal wire tube has small barbs turned in, so it should make it painful, if not impossible for the snake to extricate itself. Especially if it has the egg inside of itself. This corner is normally pretty dark, and there is a hen that nests in this location 
Lid was secured tightly. I haven't decided which method to use to get a snake out if it gets trapped. Burning the entire barn in place is still an option. TRG |
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Posted: 6/3/2012 9:17:55 AM EDT
[#6]
That bucket one is pretty nice. I have friends that have bigger ones made of a wooden box with larger funnel entrances similar to the one on the bucket on all four sides.
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Posted: 6/3/2012 9:21:47 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
I am going to see if this works: http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv71/TheRedGoat/20120603_114859.jpg http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv71/TheRedGoat/20120603_114851.jpg http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv71/TheRedGoat/20120603_114844.jpg I placed a towel that my hens lay on in a nest inside the bucket. I also put an egg in there. It is under the intake tube, so the snake will need to stick at least 1' of his body inside. the end of the metal wire tube has small barbs turned in, so it should make it painful, if not impossible for the snake to extricate itself. Especially if it has the egg inside of itself. This corner is normally pretty dark, and there is a hen that nests in this location http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv71/TheRedGoat/20120603_115122.jpg Lid was secured tightly. I haven't decided which method to use to get a snake out if it gets trapped. Burning the entire barn in place is still an option. TRG I like this, but like you said, snake disposal is still an issue. I would recommend rigging up a seeing eye and a guillotine. Raise the hole in the bucket a few inches, as soon as the snakes head passes by the eye sensor, down drops a blade and the head drops into the bottom of the bucket. Body of snake falls onto floor and problem solved. Attach a servo motor that resets the blade after each capture. |
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Posted: 6/3/2012 9:40:19 AM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I am going to see if this works: http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv71/TheRedGoat/20120603_114859.jpg http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv71/TheRedGoat/20120603_114851.jpg http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv71/TheRedGoat/20120603_114844.jpg I placed a towel that my hens lay on in a nest inside the bucket. I also put an egg in there. It is under the intake tube, so the snake will need to stick at least 1' of his body inside. the end of the metal wire tube has small barbs turned in, so it should make it painful, if not impossible for the snake to extricate itself. Especially if it has the egg inside of itself. This corner is normally pretty dark, and there is a hen that nests in this location http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv71/TheRedGoat/20120603_115122.jpg Lid was secured tightly. I haven't decided which method to use to get a snake out if it gets trapped. Burning the entire barn in place is still an option. TRG I like this, but like you said, snake disposal is still an issue. I would recommend rigging up a seeing eye and a guillotine. Raise the hole in the bucket a few inches, as soon as the snakes head passes by the eye sensor, down drops a blade and the head drops into the bottom of the bucket. Body of snake falls onto floor and problem solved. Attach a servo motor that resets the blade after each capture. I am thinking about drowning them, jutt to piss off the snake lovers on this board. TRG |
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Posted: 6/3/2012 9:43:16 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
That bucket one is pretty nice. I have friends that have bigger ones made of a wooden box with larger funnel entrances similar to the one on the bucket on all four sides. I saw one that looked like a pizza box style trap. I have everything from rat snakes to rattlesnakes around here. I need something that I don't even need to open. Disposable, almost. If the bucket works, I will add a wire top so I can look inside, and a thin wire covered bottom so I can shoot through the bucket. TRG |
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Posted: 6/3/2012 4:50:00 PM EDT
[#10]
Well, it worked, kinda...
I went out there this evening and threw in some table scraps. Decided to check the bucket. There was an obvious sign of struggle. 
I had to drag him out from behind some boxes and a feed sack. This is just inside the door to the coop. One of the hens was staring over there with a DUDE LOOK OVER THERE!!! expression on her face when I walked in. Not kidding. She was staring at the snake's hiding spot. 
He's going to convert to chicken feed now: 
Apparently the snake tried to crawl in to the bucket to get the egg inside. I guess he made it part way and got poked by the barbed end. Looks like it took him a while to get out. muahahaha. I hope it hurt. alot. He did not try to run when I put the 22LR to his head. Keeping a gun in the coop has been a good idea this summer. TRG |
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Posted: 6/3/2012 5:42:05 PM EDT
[#11]
fake eggs with explosives and radio controlled detenators. Then you can find out where they were hiding.
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Posted: 6/4/2012 7:26:06 AM EDT
[#12]
The snake's struggle got me to thinking that maybe I can modify the design so that it not only can trap, but automatically kill snakes. I have read about coon traps that were made by boring a hole in a log, placing a shiny object in the hole, and then ringing the hole with a series of nails pointing inward.
A coon grabbing the shiny object will not release it and his fist cannot be pulled past the nails. The snake apparently decided to back out of the bucket when he got poked by the wire barbs. If I could design a one-way entrance with a constriction cone, and razor blades, might be able to trap and kill all in one fell swoop. DV8's guillotine idea got me to thinking... If the entry tube was PVC, and there was a retracted razor blade in a groove on the underside/top, then an entering snake could trip a lever that caused the blade to be lifted (or dropped) in to a blade-sized groove in the PVC. The retreating snake would dispatch itself in the ensuing attempt to exit the bucket. Or, the cone/tube could have a stronger series of sharpened nails that would have stopped the snake from bending them and retreating. TRG |
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Posted: 6/4/2012 8:15:28 AM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:I have read about coon traps that were made by boring a hole in a log, placing a shiny object in the hole, and then ringing the hole with a series of nails pointing inward.
A coon grabbing the shiny object will not release it and his fist cannot be pulled past the nails. Where The Red Fern Grows, right? |
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Posted: 6/4/2012 8:23:09 AM EDT
[#14]
Why not put a leg hold trap directly in front of the piece of the tube? Snake comes out, and is forced to touch the pan trigger.
Also, what about angling the tube up? Just a slight incline, but if the snake could crawl up something like your wire mesh tube and had to drop into the bucket it would be hard to get back into the tube. The razor blade idea could work, but I think all you would have to do is cut a notch in the PVC angling the blade toward the exit into the bucket. Place the blade in the notch. Might not be real humane, but the snake should be able to get into the trap without getting cut and either have to stay in the bucket or skin himself to get out. |
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Posted: 6/4/2012 8:40:01 AM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
Why not put a leg hold trap directly in front of the piece of the tube? Snake comes out, and is forced to touch the pan trigger. Also, what about angling the tube up? Just a slight incline, but if the snake could crawl up something like your wire mesh tube and had to drop into the bucket it would be hard to get back into the tube. The razor blade idea could work, but I think all you would have to do is cut a notch in the PVC angling the blade toward the exit into the bucket. Place the blade in the notch. Might not be real humane, but the snake should be able to get into the trap without getting cut and either have to stay in the bucket or skin himself to get out. I like the idea of the angled blade. If the dull side was facing the opening...you're right, the snake would just push it out of the way as he slid inward. Any attempt to reverse would jam the blade in to the snake's back. The blade would act as its own trip and release. Like a parking lot tire puncture. TRG |
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Posted: 6/4/2012 10:12:23 AM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
Quoted:I have read about coon traps that were made by boring a hole in a log, placing a shiny object in the hole, and then ringing the hole with a series of nails pointing inward.
A coon grabbing the shiny object will not release it and his fist cannot be pulled past the nails. Where The Red Fern Grows, right? Thats what i was thinking. |
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Posted: 6/4/2012 10:16:22 AM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:I have read about coon traps that were made by boring a hole in a log, placing a shiny object in the hole, and then ringing the hole with a series of nails pointing inward.
A coon grabbing the shiny object will not release it and his fist cannot be pulled past the nails. Where The Red Fern Grows, right? Thats what i was thinking. Think so, yeah. Supposed to work for crows too on the tops of fence posts. Same technique. TRG |
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Posted: 6/4/2012 12:13:55 PM EDT
[#18]
Quoted: Quoted: Why not put a leg hold trap directly in front of the piece of the tube? Snake comes out, and is forced to touch the pan trigger. Also, what about angling the tube up? Just a slight incline, but if the snake could crawl up something like your wire mesh tube and had to drop into the bucket it would be hard to get back into the tube. The razor blade idea could work, but I think all you would have to do is cut a notch in the PVC angling the blade toward the exit into the bucket. Place the blade in the notch. Might not be real humane, but the snake should be able to get into the trap without getting cut and either have to stay in the bucket or skin himself to get out. I like the idea of the angled blade. If the dull side was facing the opening...you're right, the snake would just push it out of the way as he slid inward. Any attempt to reverse would jam the blade in to the snake's back. The blade would act as its own trip and release. Like a parking lot tire puncture. TRG Yep. Have you seen the movie SAW? If you put a razor blade on a hinge at the mouth of the opening, it'll cut the snake in half if it tries to back out. This scene FYI |
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Posted: 6/4/2012 12:35:36 PM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Why not put a leg hold trap directly in front of the piece of the tube? Snake comes out, and is forced to touch the pan trigger. Also, what about angling the tube up? Just a slight incline, but if the snake could crawl up something like your wire mesh tube and had to drop into the bucket it would be hard to get back into the tube. The razor blade idea could work, but I think all you would have to do is cut a notch in the PVC angling the blade toward the exit into the bucket. Place the blade in the notch. Might not be real humane, but the snake should be able to get into the trap without getting cut and either have to stay in the bucket or skin himself to get out. I like the idea of the angled blade. If the dull side was facing the opening...you're right, the snake would just push it out of the way as he slid inward. Any attempt to reverse would jam the blade in to the snake's back. The blade would act as its own trip and release. Like a parking lot tire puncture. TRG Yep. Have you seen the movie SAW? If you put a razor blade on a hinge at the mouth of the opening, it'll cut the snake in half if it tries to back out. This scene FYI I saw the original years ago. Not my kind of movie. Not familiar with the scene or mechanism posted. I thought about something like that. It needs to be something that auto-kills snakes of all sizes. The hinges are interesting... The hinges would need to let a snake in with no resistance, but also stay in constant contact with the snake. A light spring, or rubber band, might keep the hinges closed. Or, I could add a 90 turn to the entry PVC and gravity would keep them resting lightly against each other. A short piece of wire could keep them from flopping open too far? Ideas on how to attach the blades to a hinge? JB weld would work, but, if a blade got damaged it would be hard to replace. TRG |
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Posted: 6/4/2012 1:04:25 PM EDT
[#20]
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Posted: 6/4/2012 1:14:18 PM EDT
[#21]
Interesting. Looks like I need one of those as well for general snake harvesting around the property. Thanks for that link. TRG |
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Posted: 6/4/2012 1:51:49 PM EDT
[#22]
Quoted: I saw the original years ago. Not my kind of movie. Not familiar with the scene or mechanism posted. I thought about something like that. It needs to be something that auto-kills snakes of all sizes. The hinges are interesting... The hinges would need to let a snake in with no resistance, but also stay in constant contact with the snake. A light spring, or rubber band, might keep the hinges closed. Or, I could add a 90 turn to the entry PVC and gravity would keep them resting lightly against each other. A short piece of wire could keep them from flopping open too far? Ideas on how to attach the blades to a hinge? JB weld would work, but, if a blade got damaged it would be hard to replace. TRG I've never liked the movies either; that just stuck out in my mind.  You'd set it up like this.  You really only need one edge for this and gravity. No reason to get too complicated. The edge of the razor would need to hang to almost the bottom of the opening to be effective. As far as attaching it to a hinge, I'd go with the double edged safety razors with the holes in the middle. I'm sure you could fit a small nut and bolt through it and the hinge. In fact if you use a larger hinge, you could put one razor for each screw hole. This method would be particularly effective because their scales would catch the razor as they try to back out.
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Posted: 6/4/2012 2:05:09 PM EDT
[#23]
Quoted:
[/div][div]As far as attaching it to a hinge, I'd go with the double edged safety razors with the holes in the middle. I'm sure you could fit a small nut and bolt through it and the hinge. In fact if you use a larger hinge, you could put one razor for each screw hole. [/div][div] [/div][div]This method would be particularly effective because their scales would catch the razor as they try to back out.[/div][/div] I'm thinking about the commercial blades that are used to scrape paint/materials on a jobsite. Thicker, already made to be screwed in place. TRG |
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Posted: 6/4/2012 2:50:48 PM EDT
[#24]
Ah, good idea. I'd just go to the hardware store and peek around. I'm sure you'll find something that works.
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Posted: 6/4/2012 2:56:49 PM EDT
[#25]
Quoted:
Ah, good idea. I'd just go to the hardware store and peek around. I'm sure you'll find something that works. I like the single hinge idea. A piece of 2" pvc, a reducer to 1 1/4", small hinge with a razor angled on it. Egg just out of reach inside the hinged door. TRG |
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Posted: 6/4/2012 3:18:48 PM EDT
[#26]
They sell cone type snake traps at The Bean Farm (it's online).
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Posted: 6/4/2012 4:14:28 PM EDT
[#27]
Quoted:
They sell cone type snake traps at The Bean Farm (it's online). Googled the site. Saw no traps. TRG |
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Posted: 6/4/2012 4:34:54 PM EDT
[#28]
Wierd, I guess they don't carry them anymore. They were a plastic cone, the small end goes into a container and the works is laid down along a wall of the edge of the coup where the snake is most likely to crawl. The snake goes into the large end and squeezes through the small end, but cannot get back through the other way.
Does that sound too dirty? |
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Posted: 6/4/2012 4:46:24 PM EDT
[#29]
Also, you could put some mouse traps in the bucket to finish things off. I have a friend who had a rat problem at his dad's shop weld some blades to a mouse trap, and suffice to say, that took care of the problem.
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Posted: 6/4/2012 5:15:28 PM EDT
[#30]
Quoted:
Also, you could put some mouse traps in the bucket to finish things off. I have a friend who had a rat problem at his dad's shop weld some blades to a mouse trap, and suffice to say, that took care of the problem. Not no, but, hell no. I am reasonably sure that your 'saw' idea is unsafe enough for a Luddite like myself. "There's only one way to test a sharkbite suit..." Decapitating the snake is probably going to work juuust fine. I will build another in the yard to trap/kill other snakes. I have seen the flat traps with the plastic 'fences' used to steer the snakes to them. I think this will work like a top to start thinning the population around my yard. I am off tomorrow. I plan to have the snake guillotine(s) up and running before noon. I think I can build them out of PVC pipes for less than 10 bucks each. I can then scatter them around the coop and start getting free protein from snakes to feed my hens. <insert evil laugh here> I can make them about 2' long with an endcap that is pressed on and a screw top gate that can also be removed for cleaning. Saw some 'mouse scented' attractant on the web, but, the egg cloths seems to draw them as well. TRG |
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Posted: 6/4/2012 6:24:13 PM EDT
[#31]
Just post the pics, man. I'm obviously interested.
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Posted: 6/4/2012 6:34:37 PM EDT
[#32]
As a pre-teen I once built an exploding rat trap....... still have some small bits of it in my forehead......... I think it might work for you in this situation
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Posted: 6/4/2012 7:55:49 PM EDT
[#33]
This looks like the perfect opportunity to build a Rube Goldberg device involving a .22lr (or 12 Ga., if you want to be sure) and a a victim operated firing mechanism.
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Posted: 6/5/2012 3:36:36 AM EDT
[#34]
Quoted:
This looks like the perfect opportunity to build a Rube Goldberg device involving a .22lr (or 12 Ga., if you want to be sure) and a a victim operated firing mechanism. Stop pandering to my co-dependent need to fit in. TRG |
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Posted: 6/5/2012 9:03:40 AM EDT
[#35]
Built the prototype. Identified an unexpected problem, but it is functional and set in the coop now.
Here's what it is... 3" outer PVC 3" PVC Cap 2"-3" reducer (used backwards) 2" pvc 2" to 1.5" reducer 1.5" PVC T-hinge 2 razor blades. JB Quik Weld 
This is the inner mechanism sleeve. I wanted it long enough that a coon or hen would not want to stick any part close to the trap door. 
This is the 3"-2" coupler reversed so I could use a PVC sleeve. If I was using a box or other mounting container this would not be needed. 
This is the trap door. It opens easily and I had planned to mount a single blade using the screw holes in the blade. It made more sense to use two blades. It also meant some JB Qwik Weld was simpler than drilling and screwing the blades in place. 
It is a one-way gate. 
I trimmed the mounting screws to keep the sneaky snakes from bumping their heads on them. I plan to build a second tube. The 3" tube is too narrow. It bumps/wedges on the hinge and blades. I need more clearance to keep the snake from being unable to open the gate. But, that seems to be the only a problem if using he PVC casing. If I put this entry tube in to a larger container it would not be a factor. I spent 44.00 on everything, and I have enough materials to build two traps. the 2"-3" reducers were 8.00 each. There are some other construction pics here: http://photobucket.com/TheRedGoat TRG |
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Posted: 6/5/2012 9:33:14 AM EDT
[#36]
Looks friggen sweet. Just don't get your sausage snagged in there.
 I doubt you'll get a full decapitation, but that's a check valve from hell. Looking forward to seeing more dead snakes chicken feed-feed.
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Posted: 6/5/2012 9:40:47 AM EDT
[#37]
I dont think it will work, you need those blades set more at an angle, somehow.
Eta interested to see the results, looks good with the hot dog, I am just skeptical it will work with the snake |
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Posted: 6/5/2012 9:42:23 AM EDT
[#38]
Quoted:
Looks friggen sweet. Just don't get your sausage snagged in there. I doubt you'll get a full decapitation, but that's a check valve from hell. Looking forward to seeing more dead snakes chicken feed-feed. I dunno if full decapping is possible, but, life-ending injuries, partial dissection, blood loss ... it should do the trick. With a panic response from injury, and autonomic muscle reaction, I am not ruling out a decap through. I need to add a device that drops salt in their wounds now. TRG |
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Posted: 6/5/2012 9:50:14 AM EDT
[#39]
Quoted: I need to add a device that drops salt in their wounds now. TRG Now that's just cruel. I'm contacting PETA. |
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Posted: 6/5/2012 9:52:19 AM EDT
[#40]
Quoted:
I dont think it will work, you need those blades set more at an angle, somehow. Eta interested to see the results, looks good with the hot dog, I am just skeptical it will work with the snake It will either kill, injure, capture any snake that tries to get the egg inside. It's a snake motel. Smaller snakes can enter, but will not be able to get back out. I can drop it in a bucket of water to kill em. I see two problems: 1. Door wedges open/closed by lodging against the PVC pipe when the snake begins to struggle. I can solve this by using a different outer container. 2. Door wedges open when the snake struggles because the tube rolls upside down allowing the door to drop free. In either case, the blades should injure the snake to the point that he is dispatched by the time I get there. The OAL length of the trap is about 20" The snakes that are going after the eggs are 3-5' in length. They can't fit all the way inside. They gotta back out. The egg inside won't fit through the PVC. I'm cautiously optimistic that this visits hell upon a snake asap. TRG |
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Posted: 6/5/2012 10:17:30 AM EDT
[#41]
Quoted:
I dont think it will work, you need those blades set more at an angle, somehow. You and mitttfoo both suggested an an angle change. I used 90 to decrease the opening size. I made a new gate using a more inclined opening. 
I am going to use this on another trap. I am also looking at adding another anti-reverse blade in to the 'roof' of this entry tube that a snake will pass, but, when he tries to get out, it will add another slicing barricade. TRG |
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Posted: 6/5/2012 11:40:23 AM EDT
[#42]
Removed the 90 degree door. Replaced it with the angled entrance. This helped with the clearance issue as well. Snake can enter, but will not wedge the razors in to the outer PVC.
I tested the anti-reversing blade in the roof of the entry tube. It works, but there is no clearance in the tube style trap. Blade is inserted in to a groove, pivots on a couple of small pins with a travel limiter. Snake pushes it out of the way when it enters, but snags it when trying to reverse. Will post pics when I have it on the next trap. TRG |
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Posted: 6/5/2012 12:37:15 PM EDT
[#43]
tag for interest!
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Posted: 6/5/2012 4:49:36 PM EDT
[#44]
I don't have chickens, and don't have a snake problem but this is just funny shit right here!! TAG for updates
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Posted: 6/5/2012 4:56:57 PM EDT
[#45]
You got way too much free time, bud.
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Posted: 6/5/2012 7:07:21 PM EDT
[#46]
I know, right? The whole point of the chickens, gardens, tractors, irrigation system was to give me something to do in the summer. Life of a college professor. I only teach two days per week in the summer. Every week is a five-day weekend.
Which reminds me, I gotta get back to the waterwheel idea. TRG |
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Posted: 6/6/2012 6:16:14 AM EDT
[#47]
I've been thinking about the waterwheel. Still no ideas. You won't be able to draw much power from it, so you're pretty limited.
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Posted: 6/6/2012 11:17:33 AM EDT
[#48]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I am going to see if this works: http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv71/TheRedGoat/20120603_114859.jpg http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv71/TheRedGoat/20120603_114851.jpg http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv71/TheRedGoat/20120603_114844.jpg I placed a towel that my hens lay on in a nest inside the bucket. I also put an egg in there. It is under the intake tube, so the snake will need to stick at least 1' of his body inside. the end of the metal wire tube has small barbs turned in, so it should make it painful, if not impossible for the snake to extricate itself. Especially if it has the egg inside of itself. This corner is normally pretty dark, and there is a hen that nests in this location http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv71/TheRedGoat/20120603_115122.jpg Lid was secured tightly. I haven't decided which method to use to get a snake out if it gets trapped. Burning the entire barn in place is still an option. TRG I like this, but like you said, snake disposal is still an issue. I would recommend rigging up a seeing eye and a guillotine. Raise the hole in the bucket a few inches, as soon as the snakes head passes by the eye sensor, down drops a blade and the head drops into the bottom of the bucket. Body of snake falls onto floor and problem solved. Attach a servo motor that resets the blade after each capture. I am thinking about drowning them, jutt to piss off the snake lovers on this board. TRG i'm still a fan of burning the entire building down with the snakes trapped inside, but I'm ok with this plan too |
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Posted: 6/6/2012 11:29:55 AM EDT
[#49]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I dont think it will work, you need those blades set more at an angle, somehow. You and mitttfoo both suggested an an angle change. I used 90 to decrease the opening size. I made a new gate using a more inclined opening. http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv71/TheRedGoat/20120605_131255.jpg http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv71/TheRedGoat/20120605_131305.jpg http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv71/TheRedGoat/20120605_131311.jpg I am going to use this on another trap. I am also looking at adding another anti-reverse blade in to the 'roof' of this entry tube that a snake will pass, but, when he tries to get out, it will add another slicing barricade. TRG that looks just plain evil. I like it
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Posted: 6/6/2012 11:33:53 AM EDT
[#50]
Quoted:
I've been thinking about the waterwheel. Still no ideas. You won't be able to draw much power from it, so you're pretty limited. Well, it comes down to very low HP, but, 24/7 energy. There is genius in the plan, I'm just missing the genius and the plan parts of it. Think it will work best to remove the rear tire and cut a series of grooves through the rim. Insert metal or plastic fins/cups in to these grooves. Water impacts these fins/cups and the wheel turns. I have even considered looking at local garage sales for measuring cups, spoons or cheap materials to make the fins. I am 100% confident that I can build a small damn, run some PVC downhill and have a captured stream of water. I think 1" stream of water through the PVC is easily available from one of my feeder springs. The HP available in a 1" column of water will not be much, but, it is free (well, other than material costs) energy. A chain from the rear tire could then be attached to a sprocket on another piece of equipment/device. The rear sprocket has three gears, so I can vary the speed of the output, and the torque output. It is the 'other device' portion that has me stumped. I have a solar trickle charger for my tractors for SHTF energy. The waterwheel would be in the woods, so it has to be a weatherproof system. I watched a show on the Hitler channel about the Chinese using water power, but, scale is a factor. A water clock is a cool concept, but...why a clock? A gristmill? I don't have a mill. TRG |
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