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Posted: 8/26/2010 5:11:44 AM EDT
[#1]
I personally would use screws if you have the money. I have seen to many boards come loose over time with just nails. If you do use nails, use more than one per rail.
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Posted: 8/26/2010 5:12:52 AM EDT
[#2]
Screws will hold better when the boards start to warp. Screws and a good power drill will save your forearm and some time.
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Posted: 8/26/2010 5:13:40 AM EDT
[#3]
Screws. If you have to use nails at least use the ring-shank.
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Posted: 8/26/2010 5:13:48 AM EDT
[#4]
Screws. Unless you enjoy having to periodically go out with your hammer and pound the heads flush again and again.
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Posted: 8/26/2010 5:13:59 AM EDT
[#5]
Quoted: I personally would use screws if you have the money. I have seen to many boards come loose over time with just nails. If you do use nails, use more than one per rail. Im trying to keep the cost down to see if my HOA will cover it all. If I go with nails I can do 2 nails per rail to make it a total of 6 nails on each board. Definitely need some kind or nailer to do 500 pickets. |
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Posted: 8/26/2010 5:16:00 AM EDT
[#6]
Also, it makes it easer to replace damaged/rotten boards if you use screws ; and dont countersink the shit out of them.
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Posted: 8/26/2010 5:20:52 AM EDT
[#7]
Yeah, I found that out the hard way helping a friend of mine with his fence.
In the interest of saving time and money I think I will go with nails. I can rent a nailer and put them up fairly fast with that. |
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Posted: 8/26/2010 5:23:43 AM EDT
[#8]
Quoted: Screws. If you have to use nails at least use the ring-shank. Yep. The ring shank nails hold very, very well, are a lot cheaper and the flat head won't pull through the cedar if it starts to warp like the countersink, angled heads of the deck type screws. I like to use screws for nearly any project, but to put up fence boards it is just not necessary. |
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Posted: 8/26/2010 5:25:25 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted: Quoted: Screws. If you have to use nails at least use the ring-shank. Yep. The ring shank nails hold very, very well, are a lot cheaper and the flat head won't pull through the cedar if it starts to warp like the countersink, angled heads of the deck type screws. I like to use screws for nearly any project, but to put up fence boards it is just not necessary. Awesome. I will get these. |
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Posted: 8/26/2010 5:25:52 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
Yeah, I found that out the hard way helping a friend of mine with his fence. In the interest of saving time and money I think I will go with nails. I can rent a nailer and put them up fairly fast with that. You must live on the arid side of Texas. Nails small enough to work on a fence corrode quickly. Once the heads pop off, game over. Use of short coated deck screws is the best idea. |
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Posted: 8/26/2010 5:26:44 AM EDT
[#11]
What size?
1 1/2? |
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Posted: 8/26/2010 5:28:55 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted: Quoted: Yeah, I found that out the hard way helping a friend of mine with his fence. In the interest of saving time and money I think I will go with nails. I can rent a nailer and put them up fairly fast with that. You must live on the arid side of Texas. Nails small enough to work on a fence corrode quickly. Once the heads pop off, game over. Use of short coated deck screws is the best idea. Good point. Although the existing fence has been in place for about 9 years and the nails are OK. Some have backed out but it only took me about 5 minutes to nail them back in. I don't plan to be in this house more than 5 years so I can just do nails and let the next owner worry about it. |
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Posted: 8/26/2010 5:32:45 AM EDT
[#13]
The extra money for screws isn't that big of an investment if you plan on living there for a while. I did a shadowbox wood picket fence and used screws throughout. My next door neighbor paid a contractor to do his and 2 years later, his fence is all warped and crappy looking and mine looks just as sound as when I built it. I'm not sure what type of fence your building, but my suggestion if you're doing shadowbox, is to use screws long enough to go completely through the pickets, 2x4 stringers and partly into the pickets on the other side. Like this:
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Posted: 8/26/2010 5:33:17 AM EDT
[#14]
I think screws are well worth the extra cost, but my region is tough on wood fences, huge winds and heavy snow. We often add metal posts to increase the wind resistance of the fence.
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Posted: 8/26/2010 5:40:37 AM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
What size? 1 1/2? Use two inch galvanized ring shank nails. I used my Paslode cordless nailer, very handy and made the job a lot easier. |
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Posted: 9/1/2010 10:34:24 AM EDT
[#16]
Quoted: Quoted: What size? 1 1/2? Use two inch galvanized ring shank nails. I used my Paslode cordless nailer, very handy and made the job a lot easier. Thanks for the suggestion. Went to my Home depot which has a rental Dept. I can rent one of those for $30 a day. |
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Posted: 9/1/2010 10:40:26 AM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Yeah, I found that out the hard way helping a friend of mine with his fence. In the interest of saving time and money I think I will go with nails. I can rent a nailer and put them up fairly fast with that. You must live on the arid side of Texas. Nails small enough to work on a fence corrode quickly. Once the heads pop off, game over. Use of short coated deck screws is the best idea. Yep. IIRC, cedar contains a substance that corrodes nails. You need to use a coated nail (or screw). |
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Posted: 9/1/2010 1:40:26 PM EDT
[#18]
screws
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Posted: 9/1/2010 1:42:47 PM EDT
[#19]
Screws. If possible, spring for the ones designed to be used outside. Regular wood screws will rust. Ask me how I know.
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Posted: 9/1/2010 1:44:03 PM EDT
[#20]
screws, do it right the first time.
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Posted: 9/1/2010 1:46:21 PM EDT
[#21]
Screws. Save yourself some maintenance problems in the future.
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Posted: 9/1/2010 1:56:52 PM EDT
[#22]
I've got big dogs so screws are what I use.. Harder for them to push boards out..
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Posted: 9/1/2010 1:58:16 PM EDT
[#23]
Screws. You can easily modify or take down sections in the event you need to do some repsirs or something else to the fence
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Posted: 9/1/2010 2:01:07 PM EDT
[#24]
Screws!
Get some Torx (star) head screws, you won't strip one head out. |
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Posted: 9/2/2010 4:17:41 AM EDT
[#25]
Quoted:
Screws will hold better when the boards start to warp. Screws and a good power drill will save your forearm and some time. |
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Posted: 9/2/2010 4:27:57 AM EDT
[#26]
Screw it. Seriously.
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Posted: 9/2/2010 4:29:56 AM EDT
[#27]
My experience with cedar pickets is that nails hold up fine for the life of the pickets. Use screws in any gates you build.
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Posted: 9/2/2010 4:34:57 AM EDT
[#28]
Quoted:
I personally would use screws if you have the money. I have seen to many boards come loose over time with just nails. If you do use nails, use more than one per rail. Quoted:
Screws will hold better when the boards start to warp. Screws and a good power drill will save your forearm and some time. This, and this.... HOWEVER, on the initial installation, DO NOT put 2 fasteners side-by-side. The wood is still green and damp; as it dries, it's width will shrink, and having 2 fasteners will cause the wood to split. Put 1 fastener at each crosspiece and a year later, when the wood has dried, put a second fastener next to it. I did this when building my gate. The older wood (which I didn't install) split; my gate didn't split. I've had the second fasteners in place for over 2 years now. |
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Posted: 9/2/2010 4:40:20 AM EDT
[#29]
If you want to do it right use screws.
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Posted: 9/2/2010 4:44:13 AM EDT
[#30]
Screws are the best, ringshank nails work good.
You stated that you are going to go from 6' to 8' pickets. Are you adding another horizontal runner? If not, the top of those pickets are going to warp in a serious bad way, making the screw/nail question moot. If you are close to Killeen, I have a pasload nail gun just laying around that you are welcome to use if your still inclined to go that way. Dan |
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Posted: 9/2/2010 4:49:11 AM EDT
[#31]
My dad has fence company and I worked for him through high school and college. We always used nails and NEVER had any issues.
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Posted: 9/2/2010 4:54:36 AM EDT
[#32]
Screws
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Posted: 9/2/2010 5:13:05 AM EDT
[#33]
Quoted:
Screws! Get some Torx (star) head screws, you won't strip one head out. This 
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Posted: 9/2/2010 5:18:54 AM EDT
[#34]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Screws. If you have to use nails at least use the ring-shank. Yep. The ring shank nails hold very, very well, are a lot cheaper and the flat head won't pull through the cedar if it starts to warp like the countersink, angled heads of the deck type screws. I like to use screws for nearly any project, but to put up fence boards it is just not necessary. Awesome. I will get these. If you use these don't make any mistakes 
Get the MAZE brand if you find them.. The galvinized holds up on them real well. Not like allot of the econo ones that the galvinized falls off the first time you hit it with a hammer 
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Posted: 9/2/2010 5:21:55 AM EDT
[#35]
I'd be using screws.
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Posted: 9/2/2010 5:24:55 AM EDT
[#36]
to put another nail in the coffin ....
screws FTW!
I had a couple hundred feet of fence when I moved in, nails were what was used and they were the death of me. screws fixed that problem! |
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Posted: 9/2/2010 5:25:01 AM EDT
[#37]
If you are building a real fence there is only one answer
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Posted: 9/2/2010 5:25:11 AM EDT
[#38]
I'd use SuperGlue.
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Posted: 9/2/2010 5:33:51 AM EDT
[#39]
Screws, won't work loose and easier to remove if repairs are needed.
I prefer coated deck screws and a good cordless drill with magnetic self-guiding screwdiver bit. |
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Posted: 9/2/2010 5:34:41 AM EDT
[#40]
Pneumatic nailer, rent one.
/thread. |
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Posted: 9/2/2010 5:35:58 AM EDT
[#41]
Quoted:
Pneumatic nailer, rent one. /thread. Too much of a pain if you have to ever take the fence apart or repair it. |
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Posted: 9/2/2010 5:36:31 AM EDT
[#42]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Pneumatic nailer, rent one. /thread. Too much of a pain if you have to ever take the fence apart or repair it. BS. |
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Posted: 9/2/2010 5:37:00 AM EDT
[#43]
Quoted: Pneumatic nailer, rent one. /thread. Yep. I'm renting a Paslode cordless one. Doing ring shank nails. I know that alot of you say screws but I have to sell out 85% of the cash for this project. Almost 2100 bucks. Nails should be fine. I will not be at this house very long. |
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Posted: 9/2/2010 5:38:33 AM EDT
[#44]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Screws. If you have to use nails at least use the ring-shank. Yep. The ring shank nails hold very, very well, are a lot cheaper and the flat head won't pull through the cedar if it starts to warp like the countersink, angled heads of the deck type screws. I like to use screws for nearly any project, but to put up fence boards it is just not necessary. Awesome. I will get these. If you use these don't make any mistakes
Get the MAZE brand if you find them.. The galvinized holds up on them real well. Not like allot of the econo ones that the galvinized falls off the first time you hit it with a hammer This being said, pretty much everything i've built in the last 15 years was with screws with the exception of siding and roof shingles (That was supposed to be an edit 
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Posted: 9/2/2010 5:41:40 AM EDT
[#45]
screws
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Posted: 9/2/2010 5:42:41 AM EDT
[#46]
Ringshank nails will be fine. Make sure you get the hot dipped galvanized ones.
For those who say nails will pull out, Try pulling up a sheet of plywood that has been fastened with 2 1/2" ringshanks. Knowing what you are doing and what materials to use goes a long way. |
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Posted: 9/2/2010 5:44:46 AM EDT
[#47]
I would use nails, for the simple reason they have bin use for years in buildings.
My barn is all nailed; they used long nails that came out the other side 1in and bent it over. Thus making a rivet. They are stronger then most screws and way cheaper. It’s an old way of doing it but it works, |
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Posted: 9/2/2010 6:25:55 AM EDT
[#48]
I say screws. I recently replaced the fence at my house and that’s what I used. We have a BIG yard and I wanted to do it once and not have to worry about it later on. I went with cedar and three rails with two screws per rail. I put them in diagonally from each other, (one high, and one low), it made a nice pattern. I used over 380 screws to get the job done. I bought a Ridgid collated screw gun from Home Depot for $90. The screws are a little more expensive this way but it is FAST. The screws come on strips, you lock the trigger down and every time you push the gun down it drives a screw. Do it once, do it right.
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