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Posted: 7/24/2010 2:07:09 PM EDT
I don't know much of anything about ACs.
The outside box has always worked fine but just now started making a god-awful loud squeeling noise. I thought at first it was a circular saw from the neighbor but it sounded closer. I went outside and the motor/fan thing that is at the top of the box was spinning slowly and irregularly, like it would speed up and then slow down. It sounds like if I could just put a few drops of oil in just the right place, it would purr along. What do you guys think? The unit itself: 
Label on the motor (hard to get pic through the metal grate on top): 
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Posted: 7/24/2010 2:31:20 PM EDT
[#1]
Bearings on the fan motor.
Either replace them or squirt a bunch of spray lube (NOT WD-40) into the thing and get 2-3 more years out of it. |
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Posted: 7/24/2010 2:44:56 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
Bearings on the fan motor. Either replace them or squirt a bunch of spray lube (NOT WD-40) into the thing and get 2-3 more years out of it. Thanks for the input. I'm going to run to the autoparts store and pick up a can of spray lube. Pardon my obvious ignorance, but is this part called the blower motor? I'm trying to find out how much a new one will cost and I'm not sure how to look it up. My pics show numbers all over them if that helps with locating the right part. It doesn't look like it would be too hard to replace. Throw the breaker, screwdriver to open up the box, then a couple bolts and wires to disconnect. Sounds about right? |
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Posted: 7/24/2010 2:47:44 PM EDT
[#3]
That's the condensing fan motor.
ETA: When you replace the motor it's a good idea to replace the capacitor also. |
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Posted: 7/24/2010 2:48:19 PM EDT
[#4]
It's called the condenser fan motor. Your local Grangers will have one. Should be around $50 or less. Make sure to get a new capacitor with the new motor.
The oil, don't use spray lube, may get you through the weekend but judging by the rust on the motor it looks like it has taken some serious heat from the failing bearings. Come Monday you had better jump on getting a new motor, that one is doing it's death roll and it usually doesn't last too long. |
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Posted: 7/24/2010 2:55:12 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
It's called the condenser fan motor. Your local Grangers will have one. Should be around $50 or less. Make sure to get a new capacitor with the new motor. The oil, don't use spray lube, may get you through the weekend but judging by the rust on the motor it looks like it has taken some serious heat from the failing bearings. Come Monday you had better jump on getting a new motor, that one is doing it's death roll and it usually doesn't last too long. Capacitors in TVs can kill you, and this thing is bigger than a TV. Should I be worried? Where is it and is it obvious that it's a capacitor? I hope to take the thing apart and get the numbers I need, then run to the parts house on Monday. |
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Posted: 7/24/2010 3:03:16 PM EDT
[#6]
You can tell by the tag on that unit it is a 1/4 H.P. motor with a 5/370 cap.
It won't hurt you. |
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Posted: 7/24/2010 3:11:33 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Quoted:
It's called the condenser fan motor. Your local Grangers will have one. Should be around $50 or less. Make sure to get a new capacitor with the new motor. The oil, don't use spray lube, may get you through the weekend but judging by the rust on the motor it looks like it has taken some serious heat from the failing bearings. Come Monday you had better jump on getting a new motor, that one is doing it's death roll and it usually doesn't last too long. Capacitors in TVs can kill you, and this thing is bigger than a TV. Should I be worried? Where is it and is it obvious that it's a capacitor? I hope to take the thing apart and get the numbers I need, then run to the parts house on Monday. This is a 'split' capacitor... Meaning it splits the duty as a fan and compressor capacitor. 
This is just a fan capacitor... 
ETA - Put a screwdriver between the two or three terminals for about 2sec and it will discharge any stored energy. I have never been shocked by one but I have had one burn a hole in my jeans pocket 
ETA2- It's located in the control panel in the A/C, pop off the side covers (kill power to the unit 1st) and you will see it. |
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Posted: 7/24/2010 3:18:21 PM EDT
[#8]
Call Grangers and tell them you need a 208/230 volt, 1075rpm, 1/4 horsepower, 48y frame, condenser fan motor.
Here ya go... http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Condenser-Fan-Motor-4M205?Pid=search |
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Posted: 7/24/2010 3:50:03 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Call Grangers and tell them you need a 208/230 volt, 1075rpm, 1/4 horsepower, 48y frame, condenser fan motor. Here ya go... http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Condenser-Fan-Motor-4M205?Pid=search From what I can tell, that looks to be exactly what I need. Now I just get to sweat it out til Monday because I can't sleep with that motor running (nor can my neighbors) so it's fans. |
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Posted: 7/24/2010 5:10:38 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Call Grangers and tell them you need a 208/230 volt, 1075rpm, 1/4 horsepower, 48y frame, condenser fan motor. Here ya go... http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Condenser-Fan-Motor-4M205?Pid=search From what I can tell, that looks to be exactly what I need. Now I just get to sweat it out til Monday because I can't sleep with that motor running (nor can my neighbors) so it's fans. yeah, swap the fan blade over, cut the shaft to the correct length and bolt it in |
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Posted: 7/24/2010 7:18:45 PM EDT
[#11]
Since you are not using the unit, and I'm assuming you don't have a fan blade puller
Go ahead and remove the grill/fan and start soaking the shaft and allen screw with rust buster now |
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Posted: 7/24/2010 7:47:46 PM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
Since you are not using the unit, and I'm assuming you don't have a fan blade puller Go ahead and remove the grill/fan and start soaking the shaft and allen screw with rust buster now Great suggestion. 
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Posted: 7/25/2010 4:13:02 PM EDT
[#13]
Got the motor and capacitor removed. The motor that was recommended above ( http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Condenser-Fan-Motor-4M205?Pid=search ) has a stud pattern of 3 5/8".
My motor has 4 studs in a circle pattern that are ~ 5 1/4" center to center. It has three large gauge wires (black, yellow, and a reddish brown). The motor shaft is keyed, i.e. there is a singl flat surface on the otherwise round shaft so that a bolt on the fan blades can lock on securely. Can anyone help with the motor? My house is 90 degrees and I want to fix this tomorrow. New pic of motor and cap: 
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Posted: 7/25/2010 4:25:27 PM EDT
[#14]
I have found the motor I need at a couple internet sites. Price is just under $200, plus I'd have to pay for overnight shipping ($$$) and hopefully get it Tuesday. Any idea where to get this part in Houston? I don't mind driving.
Internet places I found it at: http://www.partsguy.com/cgi-bin/PartsGuy/JS89224.html http://americanhvacparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MOT39GE237A&Category_Code=M http://bestbuyheatingandairconditioning.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MOT39GE237A&Category_Code=m-carrier |
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Posted: 7/25/2010 4:30:19 PM EDT
[#15]
I would drill 4 new holes.
If you go OEM you will pay well over $100, closer to $200. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/AO-SMITH-OEM-Replacement-Motor-4UY89?Pid=search ??? |
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Posted: 7/25/2010 4:39:47 PM EDT
[#16]
sent a im to call me i can tell you where to find parts
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Posted: 7/25/2010 4:51:23 PM EDT
[#17]
...
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Posted: 7/25/2010 5:13:39 PM EDT
[#18]
Quoted:
I would drill 4 new holes. If you go OEM you will pay well over $100, closer to $200. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/AO-SMITH-OEM-Replacement-Motor-4UY89?Pid=search ??? That has all the right specs, but Grainger says the capacitor required for that motor is this oval one. That is a "single motor" capacitor. The one I have is this exact one: http://www.shortyspumps.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=28&products_id=231 and it costs $38. It is a dual motor capacitor. I found a Granger one that is the same specs as my stock capacitor: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Dual-Motor-Run-Capacitor-2MEF9?Pid=search It is a 60/5 - 370V cap. I think this will work, even though the Granger motor asks for a single motor cap of 5 - 370V. |
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Posted: 7/25/2010 5:14:52 PM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I would drill 4 new holes. If you go OEM you will pay well over $100, closer to $200. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/AO-SMITH-OEM-Replacement-Motor-4UY89?Pid=search ??? That has all the right specs, but Grainger says the capacitor required for that motor is this oval one. That looks completely different from the one I have. The one I have is this exact one: http://www.shortyspumps.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=28&products_id=231 and it costs $38. The Grainger one looks like it only has two terminals while mine has three terminals and says it is a "dual capacitor". Thoroughly confused. Here ya go. 50/5mfd round capacitor... http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Dual-Motor-Run-Capacitor-2MEK2?Pid=search |
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Posted: 7/25/2010 5:18:05 PM EDT
[#20]
Quoted:
I found a Granger one that is the same specs as my stock capacitor: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Dual-Motor-Run-Capacitor-2MEF9?Pid=search It is a 60/5 - 370V cap. I think this will work, even though the Granger motor asks for a single motor cap of 5 - 370V. Get the one I posted above, it's a perfect match. The motor asks for a 5mfd capacitor, the one you have is a duel capacitor. It serves the compressor with the 50mfd side and the fan motor with the 5mfd side, and the third post is a common terminal for both the fan and compressor. So you are technically getting a 5mfd and a 50mfd rolled into one capacitor. If the compressor had it's own capacitor you would be required to get the smaller 5mfd in the picture with the motor. Clear as mud right?
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Posted: 7/25/2010 5:19:41 PM EDT
[#21]
You guys (especially ZW17) have the patience of Job. I really appreciate it.
I'm going to buy: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/AO-SMITH-OEM-Replacement-Motor-4UY89?Pid=search http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Dual-Motor-Run-Capacitor-2MEF9?Pid=search |
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Posted: 7/25/2010 5:20:39 PM EDT
[#22]
Quoted:
Get the one I posted above, it's a perfect match. The motor asks for a 5mfd capacitor, the one you have is a duel capacitor. It serves the compressor with the 50mfd side and the fan motor with the 5mfd side, and the third post is a common terminal for both the fan and compressor. So you are technically getting a 5mfd and a 50mfd rolled into one capacitor. If the compressor had it's own capacitor you would be required to get the smaller 5mfd in the picture with the motor. Clear as mud right? My stock cap is 60 / 5 -370. Shouldn't I get the 60 / 5 one instead of the 50 / 5? |
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Posted: 7/25/2010 5:26:26 PM EDT
[#23]
yes you need the 60
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Posted: 7/26/2010 8:54:39 AM EDT
[#24]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Get the one I posted above, it's a perfect match. The motor asks for a 5mfd capacitor, the one you have is a duel capacitor. It serves the compressor with the 50mfd side and the fan motor with the 5mfd side, and the third post is a common terminal for both the fan and compressor. So you are technically getting a 5mfd and a 50mfd rolled into one capacitor. If the compressor had it's own capacitor you would be required to get the smaller 5mfd in the picture with the motor. Clear as mud right? My stock cap is 60 / 5 -370. Shouldn't I get the 60 / 5 one instead of the 50 / 5? Yes, sorry! When I first looked at the pic I thought it said 50. You had the right one. Let us know when you get her fixed. |
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Posted: 7/26/2010 10:49:26 AM EDT
[#25]
Wiring issue now.
Old motor had three wires - BLACK, YELLOW, and BROWN. New motor has four - BLACK, WHITE, BROWN, and BROWN-WITH-WHITE-STRIPE. I assume black is the same. White will take the place of yellow. Why do I have two brown wires (one having a stripe down it of course)? I think I should just hook up both brown wires to where my old single brown wire used to go. ETA: Google says to leave the brown with white stripe wire unattached (wrap w/ electrical tape) and just use the plain brown. It's 95 degrees in my house so I'm going to try that. |
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Posted: 7/26/2010 12:49:16 PM EDT
[#26]
Quoted:
Wiring issue now. Old motor had three wires - BLACK, YELLOW, and BROWN. New motor has four - BLACK, WHITE, BROWN, and BROWN-WITH-WHITE-STRIPE. I assume black is the same. White will take the place of yellow. Why do I have two brown wires (one having a stripe down it of course)? I think I should just hook up both brown wires to where my old single brown wire used to go. ETA: Google says to leave the brown with white stripe wire unattached (wrap w/ electrical tape) and just use the plain brown. It's 95 degrees in my house so I'm going to try that. Yes, just wire nut the brown/white wire and hide it in the compartment. It is attached to the same terminal as the white wire inside the motor. Yes, white is the new yellow. Brown to the 5mfd post on the capacitor. |
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Posted: 7/26/2010 1:13:33 PM EDT
[#27]
Got it all installed and turned it on. It looks to be working without a hitch. Temp in house is dropping (was in the 90s) and I don't see anything wrong.
The cap I got ended up being an oval instead of a round and it doesn't fit the little holder thing that screws on to the side to keep it secure. I bent the hell out of it and it's sort of on there, but it's loose and can wiggle. Do I get a universal capacitor clamp at the AC supply store or auto parts store or...? I'm going to let it run for now but tomorrow I can open up the side and fix that little thing. I had to do more modifications to the motor than I thought I would. The excess studs on the top (holding it to the grill) and the bottom (I assume so it can run upside down in other applications) had to be removed with an angle grinder. I also removed about 4" of shaft that was sticking down. The wires were all too short and had to be lengthened, including the ground wire. And of course that brown w/ white stripe wire had to be taped off (I cannibalized some of that wire to lengthen the others.) Again, thanks guys. You saved me at least $200. An AC store quoted me $400 for parts and labor. My parts all together were like $170. Motor was $115, cap was $43. Oh, I forgot to mention the cap - store was out of 60/5 370V and gave me a 60/5 440V. He said the higher voltage didn't matter. Seems to be true because it is working fine so far. |
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Posted: 7/26/2010 1:25:54 PM EDT
[#28]
Kick ass DIY.
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Posted: 7/26/2010 1:55:17 PM EDT
[#29]
Yup the higher voltage on the cap is a good thing.
Sounds like you hacked it in and it's working.
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Posted: 7/26/2010 2:42:28 PM EDT
[#30]
Great news
Job well done Hang onto the old capacitor |
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Posted: 7/26/2010 3:42:24 PM EDT
[#31]
Quoted:
Great news Job well done Hang onto the old capacitor Why? |
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Posted: 7/26/2010 5:09:19 PM EDT
[#32]
Quoted:
Yup the higher voltage on the cap is a good thing. Sounds like you hacked it in and it's working. 73 degrees. Yep, it's working great! 95 degrees is a bit warm for a house. 
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Posted: 7/26/2010 5:26:15 PM EDT
[#33]
Quoted:
Got it all installed and turned it on. It looks to be working without a hitch. Temp in house is dropping (was in the 90s) and I don't see anything wrong. The cap I got ended up being an oval instead of a round and it doesn't fit the little holder thing that screws on to the side to keep it secure. I bent the hell out of it and it's sort of on there, but it's loose and can wiggle. Do I get a universal capacitor clamp at the AC supply store or auto parts store or...? I'm going to let it run for now but tomorrow I can open up the side and fix that little thing. I had to do more modifications to the motor than I thought I would. The excess studs on the top (holding it to the grill) and the bottom (I assume so it can run upside down in other applications) had to be removed with an angle grinder. I also removed about 4" of shaft that was sticking down. The wires were all too short and had to be lengthened, including the ground wire. And of course that brown w/ white stripe wire had to be taped off (I cannibalized some of that wire to lengthen the others.) Again, thanks guys. You saved me at least $200. An AC store quoted me $400 for parts and labor. My parts all together were like $170. Motor was $115, cap was $43. Oh, I forgot to mention the cap - store was out of 60/5 370V and gave me a 60/5 440V. He said the higher voltage didn't matter. Seems to be true because it is working fine so far. I guess  the ARFCOM membership paid for itself and then some...
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Posted: 7/26/2010 6:28:48 PM EDT
[#34]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Great news Job well done Hang onto the old capacitor Why? Because capacitors go bad Although his old one is well used, it isn't bad and may be needed sooner or later I replaced 2 bad caps this saturday alone |
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Posted: 7/26/2010 6:35:12 PM EDT
[#35]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Great news Job well done Hang onto the old capacitor Why? Because capacitors go bad Although his old one is well used, it isn't bad and may be needed sooner or later I replaced 2 bad caps this saturday alone The guy at the AC supply store tested my cap with a special multimeter and said it tested fine. I got a new one anyway because I'd rather not open up the box again for as long as possible. I guess I could save the old one just in case. |
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