Posted: 9/19/2011 7:59:24 AM EDT
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Building a lower from parts lying around, and I have everything but a trigger. I have read some bad things about the RRA 2 stage, so I was wondering if anybody could recomend any other types of triggers I could look at?
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| What complaints have you heard about the RRA 2 stage? I am a big fan of it and have found it to work well. I am curious what is bad about it. I hear a lot of guys talk about Geisselle triggers, but I am not sure what the advantage is over any other trigger that will break clean with no creep. |
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RR triggers are not Geissele but they are damn good triggers. It is an excellent enty level. Match trigger. Holds weight and length. Definately better than most out there. Like anything they will wear over time and need tuning. Hollinger takes these triggers and really makes them nice.
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Quoted:
I have read of failures, inconsistant pulls etc... Ive never used one, but dont want to waste 90$ if they are crap I've used five or six of them in different rifles. I had one arrive actually faulty from the factory, a phone call got it replaced, and they paid shipping both ways. Other than that one hitch, they've all been terrific. Now, there has been more variance between the individual triggers than I would have expected, but still, all of them are terrific triggers. |
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Quoted:
What complaints have you heard about the RRA 2 stage? I am a big fan of it and have found it to work well. I am curious what is bad about it. I hear a lot of guys talk about Geisselle triggers, but I am not sure what the advantage is over any other trigger that will break clean with no creep. Geisselle triggers are all about "lock time" you pull the trigger, and "whack" it's off. They are FAST. They are also adjustable for pull wt., sear engagement, & overtravel, They are great triggers. There's nothing wrong with RRA triggers, they are a good buy for the money. |
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Agree. The GA and the RRA are different triggers and as a result they don't cost the same.
A good trigger guy can make the RRA play well. It is good to have options and the GA is a good one. Both are a good value. The GA will meet your expectations. The RRA may or may not unless you are willing to have some tuning done on it. |
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RRAs are okay........let us know if you move to the GA......I think you will...:))
I did.....while the RRA is okay, the GA is really just perfectly consistent and better in the way it stages the weight in the first stage. You can get something close with the RRA by tuning the disconnector spring, but I didn't try that before moving to the GA. |
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The GA is definetely the superior product.
But the RRA is not bad either. It's clearly better to have a rra for a couple sesions while you learn. Last I talked to white oak they are not tuning the rra anymore. Anyone else know of someone doing this work? I have one that was tuned and one not, both have been fine. |
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Quoted:
The GA is definetely the superior product. But the RRA is not bad either. It's clearly better to have a rra for a couple sesions while you learn. Last I talked to white oak they are not tuning the rra anymore. Anyone else know of someone doing this work? I have one that was tuned and one not, both have been fine. Here's what I copied off the site years ago As I mentioned on a previous post, that I was going to "soup up" my RRA trigger's when I got some free time. Well today after re-barreling a Winchester 94, installing a tang rear sight and doing a couple "honey dos", I took my RRA's out of the safe and went to work. It's really quite easy to increase the hammer fall (lock time), increase the first stage pull weight, decrease the second stage pull weight and still make the minimum 4 1/2 lb. weight. What is needed to be done on most triggers is to change the weights of the springs (felt resistance) and eliminate friction. Believe me, if you follow the instructions below, you will have a RRA trigger that will rival the Giessele! If your somewhat mechanically inclined and own basic hand tools, you can perform this job yourself in about 1/2 hour. Bill of materials: Obtain a Wolff extra power hammer spring. They sell for about $4.00 at Brownell's, Midway or order direct from Wolff. 1 AR15 bolt catch spring 1 sheet of 400 grit wet or dry sand paper 1 sheet Crocus (sp) cloth (available at better hardware stores) Very fine emery cloth 1 AR15 trigger spring KG 5 Micro-PTFE trigger lube (Midway USA / Brownell's) Hey, this stuff is no "gimmick"! Gun grease ( I like Gun Butter www.gunbutter.com) Midway USA or Brownells. Tetra is good too. Tools: Drill press or an electric drill 1/16" drift punch 1/8" drift punch small hammer 2 pair of long nose pliers Dremel Tool with cut off wheel or side cut pliers Directions: First remove the pistol grip and safety/selector switch. Be careful you don't lose the detent. Now remove the hammer and trigger. Clean these parts well also the inside of your lower receiver. Install the extra power hammer spring and set them aside. Remove the trigger spring. Set this on the side with your factory hammer spring. With the two pair of long nose pliers, bend your new trigger spring legs downward about 3/16". Use one pair of pliers inside the coil to hold the spring and the other just outside of the spring. Bend down the legs equally! Set the spring on a flat surface to check. If the legs are not equal, your first stage take-up will not be smooth. Put the trigger assembly in a vice. With your 1/16" punch, tap out the disconnector pin. Careful, don't lose this pin! Remove the disconnector and it's spring. Set the spring aside with your RRA hammer and trigger spring. With a Dremel tool and cut off wheel or side cut pliers, cut 2 1/2 coils off the bolt catch spring. Make your cut square and true without distorting the other coils! Insert the spring into the trigger assembly and re-install the disconnector. Your almost done! Chuck up your trigger pin in the drill press. Cut a 1/2" strip of the 400 grit sand paper and 1/2" strip of the Crocus cloth. Polish the finish off of the pin with the 400 grit while the pin is being turned in the drill. Just the center portion not the ends that will be in contact with the lower receiver. Now with the Crocus cloth, polish the pin to a mirror finish. Repeat this procedure on the trigger pin. Lubricate the trigger pin hole and the pin with the KG-5.Install the trigger assembly into the lower receiver. Lubricate the hammer and it's pin in the same manor and install. Re-install your safety/selector switch and pistol grip. Apply a dab of the Gun Butter grease to the hammer hooks, sear and the disconnector. It's time to check the weight of your trigger. If you do this with the upper off of the lower, be sure you block the fall of the hammer so it doesn't hit the front of the receiver. It's time to say WOW! You should notice a faster hammer fall, more weight on your first stage and a lighter second stage that you can "think off"! The total weight should be just under 5 lb. If you are lighter than 4 1/2 lb. total weight, Remove the hammer and trigger again and bend the trigger spring legs down an additional 1/16" inch. If you somehow failed. well you can always re-install your stock RRA springs. Special note, It is to your advantage to use NRA official weights! I could probably add this service to my line of smithing but liability issues come to mind!!! Also, it would probably void your RRA life time warranty. |
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Quoted:
The GA is definetely the superior product. But the RRA is not bad either. It's clearly better to have a rra for a couple sesions while you learn. Last I talked to white oak they are not tuning the rra anymore. Anyone else know of someone doing this work? I have one that was tuned and one not, both have been fine. Sir, FWIW I have a GA in my match rifles. For my other ARs I have the "NM" RRA triggers. I have a friend that does some tuning similar to what John Holliger used to do and they are good triggers for most purposes, just GA is better for my match rifles. The RRA do wear. After about the 2K cycles expect the break to change a bit. JMHO, 7zero1. |