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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - NEW UPDATE 12/17/17 - Review of the NEW 5D Tactical PRO Jig for cutting out “80%” Lowers.... (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 11/28/2017 9:57:20 PM EDT
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First of all I had “shelved” all my other Jigs for cutting out AR-15 “80%” Lowers after using my ORIGINAL 5D Tactical Jig. After using it for the first time I realized that this Jig was the fastest, easiest to use Jig I had. In addition the “cuts” made by it were nice!
Well, I was DAMN SURE the 5D Tactical Jig COULDN’T be improved on, it was the pinnacle of perfection, boy was I wrong. 
Then I saw the announcement of the 5D Tactical PRO Jig, and it had addressed issues I thought were never going to be delt with. I knew I had to have it. 
So here is the box... 
Then I unpacked it and started comparing it to my original 5D Tactical Jig.... What you see here (layed on their sides) are on the left the original fixture for drilling the starting hole and the initial hole for the trigger, on the right is the unit for the PRO. What’s significant about the PRO fixture is that you now only drill ONE hole, it’s much easier to remove when it’s time to start cutting, AND the fixture is thicker where the drill bit goes through. That translates to greater accuracy of the hole because the more rigid the drill bit is contained, the greater accuracy. 
Here is a top down view of the trigger/starting hole for the mill, the PRO unit is on the Left. 
Next are the side plates (top view) that are used for drilling the trigger pin hole, the hammer pin hole, and the safety hole. I posted a couple of years ago that I’d like to see side plates that were 3/4” - 1” wide side plates with hardened drill bushings installed. Well, 5D Tactical took it even further, the side plate on the Left is the PRO side plate, the one on the right is the original unit, the PRO side plate is 1 3/8” thick WITH hardened drill bushings installed. Again, that translates to greater accuracy of the hole because the more rigid the drill bit is contained, the greater accuracy and the lower chance of it being incorrect. 
Side view of the side plates, the PRO is on the right and you can see the hardened drill bushings... 
The PRO top plate is wider which should equal greater stability when using the router... 
Here I’ve installed the new PRO base on my DeWalt DWP611 Router... 
And here is the installed PRO ReadyMILL bit on the router, this new design on the mill bit should pretty much eliminate having to retighten the bit on cutting a receiver, in addition it should result in MUCH greater rigidity because of the massive shank and the huge bearing that supports the shank where it passes through the attached PRO router base plate. That means less chatter, smoother cuts, less wear on the bit. 
I’d love to cut them out now but I just was able to run the in-laws off from Thanksgiving and in the morning I have to attend a conference out of town. STAY TUNED! FINALLY I was able to find time to cut out one of my “80%” Lowers with my New 5D Tactical PRO Jig.... Here is an Anderson “80%” Lower taped up ready to install in the Jig (yes I know, I get carried away with my taping) 
Here I am drilling the trigger/milling hole... 
I’ve now locked the Jig/receiver into the vise, and yes the vise is my milling vise mounted on the mill table of my Little Machine Shop Mini Mill. 
And here I’m now “making chips” milling out the FCG pocket... 
Now to the important part.... Here is a photo of the now completed FCG pocket, AND, if you look carefully you will notice that the machining is so smooth you can see the REFLECTION of the trigger slot I milled reflected in the side of the FCG pocket!!! 
In summary, this by far and away is the finest Jig I’ve ever used (and I’ve used quite a few). Some of the outstanding points about the 5D Tactical Jig... It produces the absolute smoothest finish of any router jig available. I truly believe it’s due to their revolutionary ReadyMILL, it never once had to be tightened and is extremely rigid. In addition this should result in a longer mill bit life by reduced chatter. I was skeptical on how effective the vacuum hook up would be, well I was WRONG! It reduced the amount of metal chips I had on me by at least 80-90 %! Build quality on the Jig was nice! It assembled quickly and solidly. Using this Jig definitely rivals a lower produced on a Mini Mill and in fact I can crank out a lower quicker using the PRO Jig quicker than I could using my Mill and with a hell of a lot less of a chance of screwing up a lower. The first Lower I TRIED to cut on my Mill had the mill bit come loose and go through the bottom of the receiver. I frankly believe this is a “game changer” in Jigs. If you can’t produce a NICE Lower after watching the videos and reading the manual you probably shouldn’t be operating a screwdriver HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! |
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In What brand or manufacture 80% lowers are you using. Are they "biilet " or typical forged? I have seriously been considering a jig and router setup for myself for my own 'to me' Christmas present. I haven’t tried a billet yet but I can tell you that the way the 5D Tactical Jig is designed it won’t be an issue. The new PRO Jig makes it “stupid easy” to cut a lower correctly and quickly. |
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PursuitSS,
Have you done any additional lowers with this jig yet? I am curious if the new end mill setup does in fact lead to a longer life, and if so, how many lowers one might expect it to last. This proprietary setup is the only drawback I see. Even though you can change out the end mill, it does take a bit of time with the cooling involved. With the standard setup, its pretty quick to change out and get back to work. |
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PursuitSS, Have you done any additional lowers with this jig yet? I am curious if the new end mill setup does in fact lead to a longer life, and if so, how many lowers one might expect it to last. This proprietary setup is the only drawback I see. Even though you can change out the end mill, it does take a bit of time with the cooling involved. With the standard setup, its pretty quick to change out and get back to work. Quoted:
PursuitSS, Have you done any additional lowers with this jig yet? I am curious if the new end mill setup does in fact lead to a longer life, and if so, how many lowers one might expect it to last. This proprietary setup is the only drawback I see. Even though you can change out the end mill, it does take a bit of time with the cooling involved. With the standard setup, its pretty quick to change out and get back to work.
The ReadyMILL bit is so rigid that I’m pretty sure it’s going to last a lot longer than before. Quoted:
What's the vacuum hose size? |
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I was looking at the Easy Jig Gen 2 because the end mill is universal. I almost ordered, but there is a 3 week backorder on the jigs.
I just put an order on the PRO jig and ReadyMILL. Hopefully I can get to working on my lower soon. Thanks for the write up! Edit: I asked if jig was in stock and they said backlog in orders and 10 business day wait. I should've bought it during the holiday sales. |
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UPDATE:
I’ve now cut out a total of 5 “80%” AR Lowers. The ReadyMILL bit is still cutting like it did New out of the box. I definitely GREATLY prefer the PRO jig. I can cut a lower faster AND with a “cleaner, smoother” cut. The only drilling a single hole for the milling operations is also nice. In addition the guide for drilling the single hole is hardened and like the side plates is long enough that it pretty much makes it impossible to not drill a straight hole. I now have enough confidence with the 5D Tactical PRO Jig that I’m going to tackle a couple of “80%” Lowers that because of the price I’ve avoided till this point. First is going to be a Colt magwell 9mm Lower... 
Next is going to be a clone of a Noveske Gen III Lower, the “80%” blank is over $200.00 but I want one with the HUGE magwell. 
Because of the 5D Tactical PRO Jig, my Little Machine Shop Sieg X2D Mini Mill is sitting idle, I have over $1,000.00 wrapped up in it but I can cut a lower on the 5D PRO Jig faster and with less chance of me making a mistake. |
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Damn you, PursiutSS. You convinced me to jump on this PRO. I had the previous version but have now sold it off and ordered the PRO a few days ago. Cost wise compared to the new 80% Arms Easy Jig Gen 2, it is only like $25 more. For tooling, the complete ReadyMill bits are only $5 more than the regular 1/4" shank end mills. Even if you don't plan to fit a new replacement bit, the longevity of the new design likely will make up for that small cost. Are the ones you have done been 6061 or 7075? Are you going every hash mark on the depth, or half way for each pass? About how long does it take now? |
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Are the ones you have done been 6061 or 7075? Are you going every hash mark on the depth, or half way for each pass? About how long does it take now? The first four receivers I cut, I only went half steps for the best quality. The last one I cut Friday I went full hash mark cuts. The half cuts are a LITTLE smoother, but with the new PRO setup the full cuts are still better than any previous Jig. I don’t get in any hurry, I’m cutting a lower out in around 45 minutes, I could do one a LOT faster. |
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45 minutes is not bad at all. I will likely do half cuts, but good to know that even full cuts are so nice. I forgot to order an extra ReadyMill, just to have on hand. Still a couple weeks before I expect delivery of the jig anyway.
A couple things I really like with the PRO: The notches in the side plates for clamping in a vise. Much more solid and trouble free looking than the previous version with the side screw. Switching between AR15/9 and AR10 set ups. No need to undo the side plates, only the front take down plate, and the buffer plate (which you have to loosen anyway). |
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Thanks for the info. I made a couple of lowers with the Modulus HD jig but just ordered the 5D Pro which should be here Tuesday. The Modulus jig works great but I’m fascinated by how the inside of those lowers look so......I’m letting my OCD get the best of me. Merry Christmas to me. I can’t wait to get my hands in it.
Going forward I’m trying to do it all, start to finish. I bought lowers in the white, a small sandblasting cabinet, am experimenting with electro-etching, and want to try different finishes. I have all the equipment to try cerakoting. Check out this guy. He tried to mangle a lower with the 5D jig and a bad bearing but it still made a kickass lower. I guess it really is idiot proof.  Failed To Load Title |
| Well I got my pro jig and new makita router today and got all the way through the milling after fighteing the router depth adjustment the entire time, don't why but it wouldn't adjust worth a crap. Any way went to drill the holes and while drilling the saftey selector I noticed the the buffer tube adapter came loose and no I have slight ridge in the selector hole..... this blows, so be sure to check over things and make sure nothing comes loose...... |
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What model Dewalt is that? I'm getting ready to order and need to know which letter to order. Sizing Guide: A Bosch PR10E Bosch PR20EV DeWalt DWE6000 Porter Cable 6430 Porter Cable 6435 Rigid R24012 B Craftsman 28212 DeWalt DWP611 Porter Cable 450 C Makita RT0701C D (COMING SOON - FULL SIZE ROUTER COMPATIBILITY) Bosch 1617EV Bosch 1617EVS Craftsman 2767 Craftsman 27683 Craftsman 50429 DeWalt DW616 DeWalt DW618 Hitachi M12VC |
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Quoted:
Well I got my pro jig and new makita router today and got all the way through the milling after fighteing the router depth adjustment the entire time, don't why but it wouldn't adjust worth a crap. Any way went to drill the holes and while drilling the saftey selector I noticed the the buffer tube adapter came loose and no I have slight ridge in the selector hole..... this blows, so be sure to check over things and make sure nothing comes loose...... As to the Makita Router, I don’t have any experience with it. My DeWalt DWP611 works great. When I first purchased my Modulus Arms Jig I purchased the RECOMMENDED by Modulus Bosch Colt Router, between the time of purchasing it and obtaining “80%” blank lowers Modulus changed their recommendation and stated they were having issues with the Bosch so I sold it at a loss and had to purchase the DeWalt DWP611. Considering how well the DeWalt works it’s probably a good thing. |
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Quoted:
Well I got my pro jig and new makita router today and got all the way through the milling after fighteing the router depth adjustment the entire time, don't why but it wouldn't adjust worth a crap. Any way went to drill the holes and while drilling the saftey selector I noticed the the buffer tube adapter came loose and no I have slight ridge in the selector hole..... this blows, so be sure to check over things and make sure nothing comes loose...... I have to look over the setup procedures again because I managed to drill the trigger and hammer pins offset. |
The Bosch hand held routers are a bit of a PITA when you first start cutting. You have to take the base OFF the router, turn it to fit back on the end of the router housing and make DAMN sure to keep the clamp tight! check it for about the first 3-4 passes, definitely. Like the OP, I have been enjoying the 5D jig. 8 lowers so far... 
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I'm using a DeWalt DWP611 - it uses a Size B Sizing Guide: A Bosch PR10E Bosch PR20EV DeWalt DWE6000 Porter Cable 6430 Porter Cable 6435 Rigid R24012 B Craftsman 28212 DeWalt DWP611 Porter Cable 450 C Makita RT0701C D (COMING SOON - FULL SIZE ROUTER COMPATIBILITY) Bosch 1617EV Bosch 1617EVS Craftsman 2767 Craftsman 27683 Craftsman 50429 DeWalt DW616 DeWalt DW618 Hitachi M12VC Quoted:
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What model Dewalt is that? I'm getting ready to order and need to know which letter to order. Sizing Guide: A Bosch PR10E Bosch PR20EV DeWalt DWE6000 Porter Cable 6430 Porter Cable 6435 Rigid R24012 B Craftsman 28212 DeWalt DWP611 Porter Cable 450 C Makita RT0701C D (COMING SOON - FULL SIZE ROUTER COMPATIBILITY) Bosch 1617EV Bosch 1617EVS Craftsman 2767 Craftsman 27683 Craftsman 50429 DeWalt DW616 DeWalt DW618 Hitachi M12VC |
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Thank you. Ordered the jig pro, the dewalt 611, a 4 inch drill press vice, a 80% lower, 2 c-clamps and cutting oil. Ill post what I can do with it sometime next week. I appreciate ALL the help I can get and am reading everything I can now.
I did and it was a definite help when I actually started cutting chips. |
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I need to upgrade my 5D. Great stuff OP! got a link for the Colt 9mm and the Noveske clone lowers?? Currently out of stock, and they currently aren’t showing it in anodized at this time... Noveske Clone |
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Thank you. Ordered the jig pro, the dewalt 611, a 4 inch drill press vice, a 80% lower, 2 c-clamps and cutting oil. Ill post what I can do with it sometime next week. I appreciate ALL the help I can get and am reading everything I can now. |
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I’m really impressed by this jig - it’s amazing how well it appears to be designed (I don’t have one yet). Just a quick question about the process. In the 5D Tactical instructional video, they drill the selector and FCG pin holes as the last steps. In the 80% Milling Info thread here, there’s a discussion about how drilling the holes after the interior is milled out can allow the drill bit to egg out the first set of holes. It looks like the 5D jig takes care of this with the thick sides and the steel bearings, which keep the drill bit from wobbling. Is egging pretty much a non-issue with this jig, or would there be some small benefit to drilling the holes first? It seems like the holes need to be the most precise part of the lower, but I imagine you could also experience some chattering when you hit the holes while milling out the interior.
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Are the C clamps a necessity? |
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I’m really impressed by this jig - it’s amazing how well it appears to be designed (I don’t have one yet). Just a quick question about the process. In the 5D Tactical instructional video, they drill the selector and FCG pin holes as the last steps. In the 80% Milling Info thread here, there’s a discussion about how drilling the holes after the interior is milled out can allow the drill bit to egg out the first set of holes. It looks like the 5D jig takes care of this with the thick sides and the steel bearings, which keep the drill bit from wobbling. Is egging pretty much a non-issue with this jig, or would there be some small benefit to drilling the holes first? It seems like the holes need to be the most precise part of the lower, but I imagine you could also experience some chattering when you hit the holes while milling out the interior. |
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Unlike others, I drill my holes partially on each side of the lower before milling out the lower, I go approximately 1/4 in on one side, then turn it over and drill 1/4in on the other three holes, I have never had any problem with chattering or poor finish and for me using a mill it actually allows me to gauge what depth I am at with each hole that I breach.
Both ways work just fine, it is what ever you are comfortable with. If you decide to do as I do, don't drill all the way through the receiver, just go deep enough that when you mill it out, you don't have to do anymore drilling. I have never had any problems with my trigger, hammer or safety hole being out of spec. |
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Not up on my internet slang terms, OST is a new one to me, what does it stand for? Quoted:
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OST |
| Thanks for the feedback on drilling the holes. Reading through the milling thread, I think part of the issue in that situation is that they’re not using a jig to help align the drill bit to help prevent it from wobbling. That’s a benefit of the 5D Tactical jig, but I’d still like to play it safe and use a drill press with the jig as opposed to the hand drill. I’m sure I’m overthinking it, but if I take on an 80% project, I’ll probably only do one or two and want to make sure they’re as precise as I can make them. |
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Thanks for the feedback on drilling the holes. Reading through the milling thread, I think part of the issue in that situation is that they’re not using a jig to help align the drill bit to help prevent it from wobbling. That’s a benefit of the 5D Tactical jig, but I’d still like to play it safe and use a drill press with the jig as opposed to the hand drill. I’m sure I’m overthinking it, but if I take on an 80% project, I’ll probably only do one or two and want to make sure they’re as precise as I can make them. |
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Thanks for the feedback on drilling the holes. Reading through the milling thread, I think part of the issue in that situation is that they’re not using a jig to help align the drill bit to help prevent it from wobbling. That’s a benefit of the 5D Tactical jig, but I’d still like to play it safe and use a drill press with the jig as opposed to the hand drill. I’m sure I’m overthinking it, but if I take on an 80% project, I’ll probably only do one or two and want to make sure they’re as precise as I can make them. Just stick with the hash marks on the jig and make sure the router is flush with the side plate when you set up your router depth. I am not sure how many it will take to actually make the end mill dull, but I have done four now and it's working just like it did out of the box. |
| Got mine on the way, cant wait to try it out. Building an XM177E2 out of an 80% but first having it completely engraved with all the correct Colt info including my old S/N and then milling it out. A buddy went half in with me as he's got a few lowers he wants to do. We usually do these at work on the mill but its getting harder to find "govt project" time without getting caught. So now we can do them at home ..... |
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Got mine on the way, cant wait to try it out. Building an XM177E2 out of an 80% but first having it completely engraved with all the correct Colt info including my old S/N and then milling it out. A buddy went half in with me as he's got a few lowers he wants to do. We usually do these at work on the mill but its getting harder to find "govt project" time without getting caught. So now we can do them at home ..... 
Get Reproduction engraved somewhere like the trigger opening and maybe add you initials to serial #'s. I enjoy a good retro build but if the only thing that makes your lower look different is the lack of a third pin to an untrained observer, you maybe in for issues down the road. |
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5d really has made this idiot proof. A hand drill works perfectly fine...and good luck just doing one or two. Once you start cranking them out and realize there is virtually zero wear on the jig or the mill, well, who knows where you will stop. Quoted:
5d really has made this idiot proof. A hand drill works perfectly fine...and good luck just doing one or two. Once you start cranking them out and realize there is virtually zero wear on the jig or the mill, well, who knows where you will stop. Quoted:
Please tell us you aren't producing lowers that actually match up to serial numbers and brands listed as machine guns in the .gov database...? What I personally think is a bad idea is the people that I’ve seen on here who modify an auto selector so that they can switch their replica rifle to “Burst” or “Auto” and still have it fire (semi). I think that’s much more likely to get someone’s attention and freak someone out. I’d want to make sure there was no question if someone examined a replica rifle that the selector won’t move to that position, since people are less likely to know about the auto sear pin/hole. Having said all that, it’s probably a good idea to engrave the lower like an SBR, with his name and hometown to designate himself as the manufacturer. He could use a discrete location, like the underside of the receiver in the trigger guard area. It’s not legally required, but that would put a permanent tag on it to indicate its ownership. EDIT: On a side note, I’m not sure that it’s a great idea to put matching serial numbers on AKs, AR15s, and AR10s like PSA is offering. That seems like it could cause even more confusion if one went missing, but that’s an example of how serial numbers could be duplicated in a similar manner. |
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EDIT: On a side note, I’m not sure that it’s a great idea to put matching serial numbers on AKs, AR15s, and AR10s like PSA is offering. That seems like it could cause even more confusion if one went missing, but that’s an example of how serial numbers could be duplicated in a similar manner. If I had to guess, serial numbers most likely look like AK47-0001, AK74-0001, AR15-0001, AR10-0001. That said, I was curious to see how that turned out once they posted that package set earlier last month. |
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Got it - I wasn’t aware of that ATF guideline, but that makes sense. I’ve never see a PSA rifle in person, so I’m not familiar with how they configure their serial numbers, but it seems logical that they would do it as you described. Like I said, if you want to replicate an old arm from you prior service, make sure you mark the lower serial number with a prefix like your initials and/or clearly mark the lower as reproduction. You may never have an issue with it but it maybe a bad day for a future owner, like your family when you die, should the gun get run through DCI/NCIC for a stolen property check or some other database run. |
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I just ordered a 5D PRO jig with the B mini mill bits. Now to pick up a Dewalt 611 before it gets here. Thanks PursuitSS for talking me out of a drill press jig. |
[ARCHIVED THREAD] - NEW UPDATE 12/17/17 - Review of the NEW 5D Tactical PRO Jig for cutting out “80%” Lowers.... (Page 1 of 2)
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