Posted: 10/24/2014 10:57:43 AM EDT
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I want one, does anybody in the NY area do this?
I have two uppers and BCGs that I want converted so that I can use them as bolt guns. I know that rainer arms makes an upper and bcg for this but honestly I don't want to spend the money when I already have the parts. If someone knows anyone with a machine that can do this work, or if anyone wants to help me out that would be great. It seems impossible to find someone willing to do the work anyone know if this guy is legit? http://dstryrarmorycustoms.jimdo.com/ |
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Funny you should ask.
I have a Mega Maten .308 upper being modified for side pull as we speak. I was going to post it all up in the NY HTF when it is back from machining, should be in about 3 weeks. I am using a JP precision side pull BCG, so the maten is having the brass deflector removed, and the slot machined for the bolt and handle to reciprocate. I will ask the shop owner if he will do it for you (he is a fellow arfcommer). |
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Funny you should ask. I have a Mega Maten .308 upper being modified for side pull as we speak. I was going to post it all up in the NY HTF when it is back from machining, should be in about 3 weeks. I am using a JP precision side pull BCG, so the maten is having the brass deflector removed, and the slot machined for the bolt and handle to reciprocate. I will ask the shop owner if he will do it for you (he is a fellow arfcommer). Please do, I would really like to have this done. Also post pics when yours is finished, I'd like to see it |
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I've been tempted to chuck an upper in the mill, but haven't taken time to try it....had I been thinking, I'd have bought a few blems/2nds at knob creek to try it out on.
Drilling & tapping the bolt for a handle wouldn't be all that difficult once you get through the hardening, and it IS hard. |
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I've been tempted to chuck an upper in the mill, but haven't taken time to try it....had I been thinking, I'd have bought a few blems/2nds at knob creek to try it out on. Drilling & tapping the bolt for a handle wouldn't be all that difficult once you get through the hardening, and it IS hard. if you ever want to help a guy out I'd pay you, I wish more people were doing this |
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if you ever want to help a guy out I'd pay you, I wish more people were doing this Quoted:
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I've been tempted to chuck an upper in the mill, but haven't taken time to try it....had I been thinking, I'd have bought a few blems/2nds at knob creek to try it out on. Drilling & tapping the bolt for a handle wouldn't be all that difficult once you get through the hardening, and it IS hard. if you ever want to help a guy out I'd pay you, I wish more people were doing this I got you bro! 
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I've been tempted to chuck an upper in the mill, but haven't taken time to try it....had I been thinking, I'd have bought a few blems/2nds at knob creek to try it out on. Drilling & tapping the bolt for a handle wouldn't be all that difficult once you get through the hardening, and it IS hard. if you ever want to help a guy out I'd pay you, I wish more people were doing this I got you bro! http://www.toolbarn.com/media/brands/dremel/dremel4200banner%20copy.jpg It would make an epic arfcom thread |
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if you ever want to help a guy out I'd pay you, I wish more people were doing this Quoted:
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I've been tempted to chuck an upper in the mill, but haven't taken time to try it....had I been thinking, I'd have bought a few blems/2nds at knob creek to try it out on. Drilling & tapping the bolt for a handle wouldn't be all that difficult once you get through the hardening, and it IS hard. if you ever want to help a guy out I'd pay you, I wish more people were doing this I've helped lots of folks with their "projects" never takeing a dime....I wouldn't mind trying one or two on my own before helping some else screw up thier receiver. 
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It would make an epic arfcom thread Quoted:
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I've been tempted to chuck an upper in the mill, but haven't taken time to try it....had I been thinking, I'd have bought a few blems/2nds at knob creek to try it out on. Drilling & tapping the bolt for a handle wouldn't be all that difficult once you get through the hardening, and it IS hard. if you ever want to help a guy out I'd pay you, I wish more people were doing this I got you bro! http://www.toolbarn.com/media/brands/dremel/dremel4200banner%20copy.jpg It would make an epic arfcom thread Supply the upper. .. the shenanigans will ensue |
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Supply the upper. .. the shenanigans will ensue Quoted:
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I've been tempted to chuck an upper in the mill, but haven't taken time to try it....had I been thinking, I'd have bought a few blems/2nds at knob creek to try it out on. Drilling & tapping the bolt for a handle wouldn't be all that difficult once you get through the hardening, and it IS hard. if you ever want to help a guy out I'd pay you, I wish more people were doing this I got you bro! http://www.toolbarn.com/media/brands/dremel/dremel4200banner%20copy.jpg It would make an epic arfcom thread Supply the upper. .. the shenanigans will ensue if I had an old upper on hand I would totally try it |
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I've helped lots of folks with their "projects" never takeing a dime....I wouldn't mind trying one or two on my own before helping some else screw up thier receiver. Quoted:
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I've been tempted to chuck an upper in the mill, but haven't taken time to try it....had I been thinking, I'd have bought a few blems/2nds at knob creek to try it out on. Drilling & tapping the bolt for a handle wouldn't be all that difficult once you get through the hardening, and it IS hard. if you ever want to help a guy out I'd pay you, I wish more people were doing this I've helped lots of folks with their "projects" never takeing a dime....I wouldn't mind trying one or two on my own before helping some else screw up thier receiver. well let me know, its not the end of the world if an upper gets ruined, I've made much more expensive mistakes in my life |
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well let me know, its not the end of the world if an upper gets ruined, I've made much more expensive mistakes in my life I always figured the lessons I learned best cost me the most money.....you'd think I'd be pretty damn smart by now. 
DSA (and a few others) had uppers in various stages of completion from raw castings to finished, but failing QAS that could be had for as little as $20. hell might have gotten them even cheaper....course that means squat now. This is the machine I have: http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-x-21-Mill-Drill/G0619 |
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I have a reject unanadoized upper I would be willing to donate to help out That would be a great help! Next thing to figure out is the cut itself: how wide and how long? Where to start and finish. Bolt carriers are hardened steel requiring carbide cutters, or spot drilling with a grinding point (grind through the hardened surface) then drilling & tapping is easy enough. Have to make a handle or adapt something already made. Would also be nice to see how others who've done this did it, where they drilled the BC. |
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That would be a great help! Next thing to figure out is the cut itself: how wide and how long? Where to start and finish. Bolt carriers are hardened steel requiring carbide cutters, or spot drilling with a grinding point (grind through the hardened surface) then drilling & tapping is easy enough. Have to make a handle or adapt something already made. Would also be nice to see how others who've done this did it, where they drilled the BC. Quoted:
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I have a reject unanadoized upper I would be willing to donate to help out That would be a great help! Next thing to figure out is the cut itself: how wide and how long? Where to start and finish. Bolt carriers are hardened steel requiring carbide cutters, or spot drilling with a grinding point (grind through the hardened surface) then drilling & tapping is easy enough. Have to make a handle or adapt something already made. Would also be nice to see how others who've done this did it, where they drilled the BC. Once upon a time we had technical forums. Would it be in there? Havent used those in a minute. |
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Don't forget you need to decide left side vs right side pull.
I'm doing right side to keep it as close to bolt action as I can, but left side is usually what is done for a non reciprocating handle. If you do right side basically you lose the dust cover, about 5 mm along the bottom edge and extend it to the rear another two inches. Much easier to start with a slick side too, since the brass deflector needs to come off otherwise. |
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Don't forget you need to decide left side vs right side pull. I'm doing right side to keep it as close to bolt action as I can, but left side is usually what is done for a non reciprocating handle. If you do right side basically you lose the dust cover, about 5 mm along the bottom edge and extend it to the rear another two inches. Much easier to start with a slick side too, since the brass deflector needs to come off otherwise. I would prefer left but I am ok with right. I'm also talking to the guy whos info you gave me. |
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You would need to find the action travel of the bolt to start. Figure if the bolt carrier group travels 1.5 inches total distance back and forth buffer to barrel (obviously not mathematics here) you would want to give yourself a slot along the left side of the upper long enough to accommodate the travel of the grip piece you will be inserting into the carrier. I suggest left side because most people load lefty and you want the same hand to charge the bolt as the loading. Reference the H & K mp5 design for the type of slotting. I would say a .55 -.60 inch endmill would do the trick moving down the upper on the tubing area where the bolt carrier group is housed. I THINK it is .25 inches up on the tube but I'm not positive. .. measure with micrometer of course :P
Young Manufacturing actually offers a bolt that has this feature pre assembled. Use their design as it is simple. You would want to use a two piece set up here if you build it yourself. If you can tap and die 4130 chrome moly I'd use that. Take a 3/4" length piece of .35" moly (you with probably have to buy 1/2 inch and lathe it down) and die both ends with a nice fine thread. Take another piece of 1/2" moly and cut to 1". Die one end with that same thread pattern into one end and screw it on to one end of the .35" stock. Now as fp1201 said you will need to carefully drill a shallow hole into the carrier end and tap that with the same threading as the other 2. Should all go together nicely. You will have to unscrew that every time you remove the carrier group so no loctite on bolt end of the charging lever!!! |
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I'm righty too and I feel the opposite.
I like having my support hand stay stable and charging with my trigger hand. I just don't feel like I support the rifle the same to stay on target when I am just using my trigger hand to hold everything. I feel the opposite in semi auto though. Much rather charge lefty on a new mag and go to town. I'll post up some pics tomorrow of where I am going. I also have a left side charger upper with a bcg already done. |
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I'm righty too and I feel the opposite. I like having my support hand stay stable and charging with my trigger hand. I just don't feel like I support the rifle the same to stay on target when I am just using my trigger hand to hold everything. I feel the opposite in semi auto though. Much rather charge lefty on a new mag and go to town. I'll post up some pics tomorrow of where I am going. I also have a left side charger upper with a bcg already done. Maybe i need to try out both before i pick, i know i'll be fine with either one though. Unfortunately not many people have this yet |
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This is a left side, side-pull, non-reciprocating upper made by ASA.
It has a folding charging handle which is nice, can be left open or folded. It is designed to replace the standard AR charging handle (note it is missing), but without a gas system you have a "bolt action" 
Note the front edge of the BCG just behind the bolt. There is a notch milled to engage the handle. That is approximately the spot you would need to drill and tap for your handle. The groove in the upper is .5" wide, and a bit under 6" long. 
This is my Mega Maten .308 upper and JP precision right side, side-pull reciprocating upper. The pull handle is a hex head cap screw and a knurled sleeve  
This pic shows the BCG in the upper, minus the handle. You can see the drilled and tapped hole in the bottom right front of the ejection port. The port needs to be extended down a few mm, and a groove needs to be added to the bottom back edge. 
Mega make this already in a slick side AR15 upper, but unfortunately, not in the Maten upper. Ultimately when mine is done it will look like this, too. 
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Instead of modifying one why not get a non reciprocating upper that takes standard BCGs?
http://www.gibbzarms.com/ |
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Instead of modifying one why not get a non reciprocating upper that takes standard BCGs? http://www.gibbzarms.com/http://nebula.wsimg.com/ee34cfa64b013464dd4eb8975ab5e139?AccessKeyId=256F5242431DA3111858&disposition=0&alloworigin=1 pretty cool |
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pretty cool Quoted:
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Instead of modifying one why not get a non reciprocating upper that takes standard BCGs? http://www.gibbzarms.com/http://nebula.wsimg.com/ee34cfa64b013464dd4eb8975ab5e139?AccessKeyId=256F5242431DA3111858&disposition=0&alloworigin=1 pretty cool Yeah, they are, and I think I'm gonna grab one right side. I like that they use a standard BCG. The ASA I have needs that notch done. In my case, no one makes a .308 side pull upper for a Mega Maten lower, I have no other options except DIY. I know Ciraxis has uppers and didn't want to buy anything else, but you are right in that there really is no need to DIY in almost all cases. Our brothers in Great Britain have all this figured out for quite some time already. 
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Yeah, they are, and I think I'm gonna grab one right side. I like that they use a standard BCG. The ASA I have needs that notch done. In my case, no one makes a .308 side pull upper for a Mega Maten lower, I have no other options except DIY. I know Ciraxis has uppers and didn't want to buy anything else, but you are right in that there really is no need to DIY in almost all cases. Our brothers in Great Britain have all this figured out for quite some time already.
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Instead of modifying one why not get a non reciprocating upper that takes standard BCGs? http://www.gibbzarms.com/http://nebula.wsimg.com/ee34cfa64b013464dd4eb8975ab5e139?AccessKeyId=256F5242431DA3111858&disposition=0&alloworigin=1 pretty cool Yeah, they are, and I think I'm gonna grab one right side. I like that they use a standard BCG. The ASA I have needs that notch done. In my case, no one makes a .308 side pull upper for a Mega Maten lower, I have no other options except DIY. I know Ciraxis has uppers and didn't want to buy anything else, but you are right in that there really is no need to DIY in almost all cases. Our brothers in Great Britain have all this figured out for quite some time already.
if I had the money to blow right now I'd buy one new, but I'd rather just have someone modify what I have, depending on price of course I'd like to have a 6.8 side charger but I doubt anyone makes that |
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Who has the best deal on uppers right now? Primary Arms' are $39
http://www.primaryarms.com/Anderson_Manufacturing_Stripped_A3_Upper_Receiver_p/ar15-a3-upfor-um.htm?utm_source=bronto&utm_medium=email&utm_term=Anderson+Manufacturing+Stripped+Forged+Upper&utm_content=Halloween+Sale+Part+2+at+Primary+Arms&utm_campaign=14-10-3+Halloween+%232 I'd prefer left hand like an HK/FN FAL. I;ve posted this 2-3 times before but never done business with the guy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T2J3GzB-cms |
