Posted: 5/14/2007 2:24:16 PM EDT
| Looking to get a stainless barrel and receiver duracoated. Can someone provide me some places or place in DFW that do good work? Thanks |
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Sledgehammer on FALFILES does Duracoating. He's done my FAL work for me and I highly recommend him. He is over in Mansfield. Semper Fi |
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www.ripcustomarms.com/index.html They do great work and are good people and have two locations one in Mesquite and one off of 380 between Mckinney & Denton. |
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Wow! The prices that RIP is charging make me want to attempt it myself! Reading the website at Lauer Custom, specifically, in the FAQs, the question and answer that says: 
makes me want to attempt it. Naturally, being a Jarhead, I like the Wilderness MirageFlage Camo that's similar to woodland MARPAT. RIP looks to be charging over $550 for the "works" package that includes DuraCoating the weapon, all attachments and four mags... |
Just wait for FREEFLOW to get back |
If you only need a compressor for duracoating, just go to the local hobby lobby and pick up a pasch (sp?) airbrush kit and an airbrush compressor. Order the duracoat stuff and pick up some thinner to clean up afterwards. Some medical disposable gloves would be a good idea too. Optionally, when you buy the kit you get bottles of propellant and a cheapie airbrush. I did some work with it, but a good airbrush and the little Testors compressor were worth it. Follow the instructions and one tip. Easy on the hardener or you'll have SHINY marpat. |
That's a good tip on the hardener. I've been using a ratio of about 1:14 for harderner to Duracoat. Gives a nice flat finish. Also, if you are running an internal mix airbrush, a little thinner in the mix helps from buildup in the nozzle and keeps you spraying a nice fine mist. You have to experiment a little bit to find the right mix of thinner. It varies depending on your airbrush and brush tip. External mix airbrushes usually do not need any thinner as they are not capable of spraying a fine enough mist to warrent the thinner. Digital patterns do take some patience. Remember, you can remove the Duracoat with thinner if you screw anything up as long as you do it right away. Once I finish something, I "bake it" under a lamp. It speed up the curing process. You can bake regular Duracoat in the oven but it works just as good under a shop lamp. Also, getting it too hot can alter the color. (Note: shop lamp will not work with Durabake...obviously). One other tip....degrease everything and use powder free latex gloves after degreasing. Any oils on the part will decrease the adheasion of the Duracoat. If you take the necessary steps and follow the instructions, you'll have a nice looking piece with a very durable finish. It's not hard to do. Go for it. Coz_45, when did you start doing the Duracoat thing? If I'm out at the show this weekend, I'll stop by. |
I just started a couple of months ago. I did the kit from Brownells, then went and spent about $160 on a decent airbrush and airbrush compressor. I agree with you on degreasing. Gun Scrubber will clean and it evaporates to a very dry surface. Cheers, see you at the show |
Hayyyy kids Im back for a few days Ask AKJEFF I think he has tryed it and it should be ok.... Duracoat has paint in a can.
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