Posted: 6/30/2011 3:22:46 PM EDT
| is there a local guy around central ar. i got the supplies to do it. just looking for someone either to do or show how its done. |
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I'm no professional but I did a few of mine. As with getting anything to stick to anything it is 95% prep and 5% spraying somewhat evenly.
Getting all, every singly drop of oil off and out of the metal is the hardest part. It has stuck to everything I have put it on. I used a cheap hobby lobby airbrush and borrowed a mini compressor. |
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Prep is the key with any spray on finish. Even a good quality regular rattle can spray paint will do well if the surface has been degreased properly and sanded or blasted (preferable) Im also a big believer in leaving the parts in the sun for several days to slow bake any remaining solvents out of the paint after you are done. Baking is best, but not everybody wants to stink up their house and oven.
Haven't used Duracoat, but the Norrels I use requires you to preheat the part before and after spraying, and you would be surprised at hidden oil that comes to the surface of parts when they get warmed up. Rinse with Brake cleaner and repeat if needed. FWIW The parts I have blasted with strained play sand and a 20 dollar harbor freight sandblaster have turned out the best. Tough as nails. I start by washing (with gloves on) in soapy room temperature water with Dawn added to it. I use a M16 kit toothbrush to scrub and then rinse with clean tap water, dry quickly, then immediately to the rack where I blast them with Brake parts cleaner (non chlorinated) to further dry them. Even then I will see a little oil left sometimes. Repeat if you need to. Use gloves in every step of the process and change them once or twice. The parts are ready to preheat or paint at this point. Brent |