Posted: 3/15/2013 7:55:12 AM EDT
| Is graphite the primary way to lube your firearms in the interier of Alaska during winter or what else do you use? |
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Mobile 0-30w synthetic is great as I use that in my car. wow  I didnt know graphite eats aluminum. Even the siliconized graphite in the can ie PB Blaster brand eats aluminum?Ever done a brake job on your car and found grooves in the rotor? Same dealio... Like putting sand in an upper and running it a few thousand rounds... It is small and round, it creates a space inbetween you moving parts and decreases friction between them. Sure its great for brass and steel, but not soft aluminum. If it is in there long enough, it will make grooves and pits. |
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0w synthetic motor oil. I just scored me a gallon of 0w30 Amsoil, just for this. It is my first time using engine oil. I have been overpaying for EWL, but am going to soak down 3 of mine tonight before I hit Rabbit Creek tomorrow. Should never have to buy gun oil again, if it works as good as you guys say 
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Mobile 0-30w synthetic is great as I use that in my car. wow I didnt know graphite eats aluminum. Even the siliconized graphite in the can ie PB Blaster brand eats aluminum?Ever done a brake job on your car and found grooves in the rotor? Same dealio... Like putting sand in an upper and running it a few thousand rounds... It is small and round, it creates a space inbetween you moving parts and decreases friction between them. Sure its great for brass and steel, but not soft aluminum. If it is in there long enough, it will make grooves and pits. Then when it gets moisture it causes galvanic corrosion. Not good stuff. |
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Motor oil is a poor preservative for firearms. I use firearms lubricants that have been specifically formulated for firearms and their needs rather than an engine. I may poor it over my 1919 BMG but I don't leave it that way or I may find rust (been there) I also wouldn't use firearms lubricants in an engine. They are not the same nor do they perform the same. Buying a bottle of CLP isn't going to break you, get the stuff made for these specific requirements. If you can afford a box or two of ammo, you can afford enough to buy enough gun oil to last you. And again, do not use graphite with aluminum. Besides being abrasive, it's corrosive to aluminum (covalent bonding). So is water when combined with fouling so do not use water to clean your aluminum suppressors or use it as artificial media in those. |
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I have found motor oil to be better in many ways than many gun oils. For example it does not burn off nearly as fast during rabid fire such as during three gun matches. I can go a lot longer before my gun needs lubed (AR) with motor oil vs CLP.
To each his own. Pat |
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Quoted: I have found motor oil to be better in many ways than many gun oils. For example it does not burn off nearly as fast during rabid fire such as during three gun matches. I can go a lot longer before my gun needs lubed (AR) with motor oil vs CLP. To each his own. Pat Wow! You burn off so much oil during the matches that your guns won't work, necessitating more lube? I shoot full auto through my M16 for god knows how many rounds before I have to lube or clean. The only gun I have that burns off that kind of oil is a 1919 belted to which I actually do use motor oil on, but only for functioning and never for storage. Generally speaking I prefer to use the least amount of lube necessary to prevent attracting fouling, gumming up my gun. I also douche the BCG in the M16 and run quite wet but only when it stops running from fouling since I almost never clean it. |
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I have found motor oil to be better in many ways than many gun oils. For example it does not burn off nearly as fast during rabid fire such as during three gun matches. I can go a lot longer before my gun needs lubed (AR) with motor oil vs CLP. To each his own. Pat Wow! You burn off so much oil during the matches that your guns won't work, necessitating more lube? I shoot full auto through my M16 for god knows how many rounds before I have to lube or clean. The only gun I have that burns off that kind of oil is a 1919 belted to which I actually do use motor oil on, but only for functioning and never for storage. Generally speaking I prefer to use the least amount of lube necessary to prevent attracting fouling, gumming up my gun. I also douche the BCG in the M16 and run quite wet but only when it stops running from fouling since I almost never clean it. Its not during matches but rather training and practice. Also with all due respect more lube helps with fouling it does not make it worse. They have found this in the dust chamber tests they did with the M4. Basically the more wet you run the gun the more it keeps the fouling soft and plyable so your gun can function. Let it get dry and the fouling gets hard and the gun stops working. That is why all of your professional trainers recommend keeping AR's wet. I have found this advice to work well. I no longer run guns dry or minimally lubed. I run them wet. IF your in a colder climate like Fairbanks use 0 weight motor oil. A friend of mine up there on the SIRT team has found that 0 weight motor oil works even as cold as -50 below. Pat |
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Quoted: Also with all due respect more lube helps with fouling it does not make it worse. PatTell that to my M16 and see how far that will get you. YMMV. Shooting full auto you really foul up fast, even more so when using suppressors. While lubricant can help "float" away debris, I get thick gunk. I run a dedicated rimfire upper on the M16 and the last thing you want to do is lube it. If I don't lube it, and since there is no gas coming back, it stays extremely clean. I can go at least 5000 rounds before cleaning. Put a little lube on there and I'll have problems around 500. Ultimately I prefer finishes like NP3 that are self lubricating, no oils needed. Dust and fouling like liquids and lubricants. |
| Good enough to add as a post. These days I rarely use a thick lube. I use LPS 1 and LPS 2. One is heavy and wet, but the other evaporates leaving the thinnest film for lubrication, and is essentially a dry lube. A lot of other guys in AMGA do the same. My guns run far longer and foul less using LPS1. I use the same trick one step before running dry in extreme cold by wiping a little Hoppe's #9 solvent and letting it evaporate but it still leaves the thinnest film. One molecule of thickness is all you need. They are aerosols so they are easy to use, especially #1 since you can douche something down, let it drip away, but not have a gun all covered in greasy oil. It's also what I use on my rimfire kits. |
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Also with all due respect more lube helps with fouling it does not make it worse. PatTell that to my M16 and see how far that will get you. YMMV. Shooting full auto you really foul up fast, even more so when using suppressors. While lubricant can help "float" away debris, I get thick gunk. I run a dedicated rimfire upper on the M16 and the last thing you want to do is lube it. If I don't lube it, and since there is no gas coming back, it stays extremely clean. I can go at least 5000 rounds before cleaning. Put a little lube on there and I'll have problems around 500. Ultimately I prefer finishes like NP3 that are self lubricating, no oils needed. Dust and fouling like liquids and lubricants. Actually the military teaches to keep their guns well lubed with their M4's and M16's. Pat Rogers ran a Bravo company carbine well over 14000 rounds before cleaning it with just running a lot of lube and lubing it regularly. I run everthing wet now and it works. Pat |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Also with all due respect more lube helps with fouling it does not make it worse. PatTell that to my M16 and see how far that will get you. YMMV. Shooting full auto you really foul up fast, even more so when using suppressors. While lubricant can help "float" away debris, I get thick gunk. I run a dedicated rimfire upper on the M16 and the last thing you want to do is lube it. If I don't lube it, and since there is no gas coming back, it stays extremely clean. I can go at least 5000 rounds before cleaning. Put a little lube on there and I'll have problems around 500. Ultimately I prefer finishes like NP3 that are self lubricating, no oils needed. Dust and fouling like liquids and lubricants. Actually the military teaches to keep their guns well lubed with their M4's and M16's. Pat Rogers ran a Bravo company carbine well over 14000 rounds before cleaning it with just running a lot of lube and lubing it regularly. I run everthing wet now and it works. Pat I certainly agree on the M16's/AR's. That is one of the few rifles I run wet, mostly because I rarely clean it. It builds up a LOT of fouling though. Wet guarantees operation, but also guarantees a quicker buildup of malfunction producing gunk. We obviously have different guns (other than AR's) because I have found no rimfire gun that benefits from being wet vs dry lube. Wet makes things work, but makes them dirty. Dry doesn't work as well, but slower to build up gunk. Your choice. Depends of how you treat your firearms and the specific missions.
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Also with all due respect more lube helps with fouling it does not make it worse. PatTell that to my M16 and see how far that will get you. YMMV. Shooting full auto you really foul up fast, even more so when using suppressors. While lubricant can help "float" away debris, I get thick gunk. I run a dedicated rimfire upper on the M16 and the last thing you want to do is lube it. If I don't lube it, and since there is no gas coming back, it stays extremely clean. I can go at least 5000 rounds before cleaning. Put a little lube on there and I'll have problems around 500. Ultimately I prefer finishes like NP3 that are self lubricating, no oils needed. Dust and fouling like liquids and lubricants. Actually the military teaches to keep their guns well lubed with their M4's and M16's. Pat Rogers ran a Bravo company carbine well over 14000 rounds before cleaning it with just running a lot of lube and lubing it regularly. I run everthing wet now and it works. Pat I certainly agree on the M16's/AR's. That is one of the few rifles I run wet, mostly because I rarely clean it. It builds up a LOT of fouling though. Wet guarantees operation, but also guarantees a quicker buildup of malfunction producing gunk. We obviously have different guns (other than AR's) because I have found no rimfire gun that benefits from being wet vs dry lube. Wet makes things work, but makes them dirty. Dry doesn't work as well, but slower to build up gunk. Your choice. Depends of how you treat your firearms and the specific missions. .22 are finicky in the cold. I run them with very light lube and hot ammo when it gets cold. Obviously you have a system that works for you and I have one that works for me. I don't clean my guns all that often other than my work guns. I like them to run for as long as possible. I will clean my guns before a match. Pat |