Posted: 1/19/2008 1:06:37 PM EDT
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This reactive target is very similar to You-Know-What. They share some similarities and some differences. My version does not produce as much smoke and works only in enclosed containers, best results at about 10 ounces. The trade off is that mine produces a bright flash, which looks cooler. It is very powerful on its own with no need to add nitromethane or any other ingredient. This mixture works with high power rifle cartridges only --.223, .308, etc. 1) The two parts must be stored and transported separately (in different containers). 2) Once you mix them together you must use them immediately. You cannot mix them together and then drive to the shoot site or store them. This is why it’s legal to use this mixture. When the two parts are stored and transported separately it is legal. However once you mix them together it is an explosive and must be used on site. 3) Use of the explosive must not harm any one or any thing (except for targets at the shoot site) or be used in any way that is unlawful. The two ingredients are: Aluminium, Al (pyro grade) -- the fuel This is used in many compositions to produce bright white sparks or a bright white flame. There are many grades of aluminium available for different spark effects. You want to purchase it in 300 to 600 mesh. For every 50lb of AN you purchase you will need around 2.5lb of AL. Dark aluminum flake is about $30.00 a pound. I tried making one yesterday with plain prilled AN and bright flake Al, and it worked just fine. The bright flake is about $16.00 a pound. Both are available at skylighter.com -- although purchases of the dark flake will likely be refused. Chemical dust in the lungs is to be avoided. As always, wear a dust mask. Make sure the environment you are working in is dry - aluminium powder can be dangerous when wet. Fine aluminium dust is pyrophoric - this means it can spontaneously ignite in air. For this reason aluminium powder with a large particle size is recommended. Ammonium Nitrate (AN), NH4NO3 -- the oxidiser AN can be found online or at a local agricultural/fertilizer store. It’s very cheap – a 50 pound bag of AN is about $17.00 at a farm supply store. Make sure you get the bags marked 34-0-0 and NOT urea nitrate. This is used very infrequently in pyrotechnics due to its hygroscopic nature and the fact that it decomposes even at relatively low temperatures. Even when dry, it reacts with Al, Zn, Pb, Sb, Bi, Ni, Cu, Ag and Cd. In the presence of moisture it reacts with Fe. It reacts with Cu to form a brissant and sensitive compound. It is best not to use any bronze or brass tools when working with ammonium nitrate. When you purchase the AN in this form its coated with a some stuff that allows it to release slowly so you must prepare it for use. This is very easy to do: Grind the AN in a cheap blender until it’s about the consistency of about table salt. Since AN is actually pretty stable until around 840 degrees Fahrenheit the heat generated in the blender will not set it off. But to be safe do this in a well-ventilated area with NO open flames. Store it in airtight containers because it is hydrosorbic, meaning it sucks up the moisture from the air. You can tell if it has absorbed moisture if it’s clumped together. If this happens break the clumps apart and dry it out. Formula for mixing: AN * 0.05 = AL X = Weight of AN Y = Weight of AL to mix with that amount of AN Somewhat greater sensitivity with increased aluminum, maybe upwards of 10%. Since the cost of Al is somewhat prohibitive, the 5% mix is suggested. Pour the amounts into the container and shake them up until they are mixed together. Remember once you mix them together you must use them at the site. You cannot drive or store the stuff mixed together. I fill 8oz. milk cartons with this target mix for a very powerful target. Even small black film canisters provide an amazing report! Using a 20-ounce coke bottle with screw on top works best. Now once the stuff is mixed the only way you can set it off is by shooting it with a .223 or above rifle or a number 8 blasting cap. Don't try setting it on fire, it makes a big gooey mess and around 840 degrees Fahrenheit nasty things can happen.  |
The components are no more illegal than they were in years past, but because of 'voluntary' restrictions on sales I'm afraid they are much harder to buy. I'm in rural Hillsboro so the AN is not much trouble (wear flannel & boots, take the pickup) but the Al flake is, as somebody wrote in an earlier thread -- much more difficult. Fortunately I stocked up -- anyone need help with components? |
Good thinking. Will do. Edit: The phrase DIY Tannerite in the thread title in no way implies any disrespect for Dan Tanner.  It seems a stretch to think that. At our house we make our own colored modeling... uh, stuff. We and our son call it Play-Doh. No disrespect intended to the Play-Doh company. Anyway, happy shooting. 
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At the beginning of the post you say:
The later you say:
So, which is it? an oz or so in a film canister will work, or you need 10oz + ? |
Not is spelled correctly. The tense may be in question. Post a "home made Play-Doh recipe" on a public forum and let me know if Hasbro's legal team thinks you are showing any disrespect. I myself wouldn't care because I don't personally know anyone with a major interest in Hasbro. I have met Dan but have not met you. I don't think you are doing this because of any feelings you have one way or the other about him. I did want to share my feelings that it may be disrespectul to use his trade name when trying to instruct folks on how to create a somewhat similar product at home without having to purchase from him. |
I haven't asked Walgreens about recycling them yet but I seem to accumulate medicine containers at a fairly regular pace. I'm thinking they would make nice little targets just because of the already amber tint they have. I'm thinking they would show up ok with a gravel back drop. |
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The light flake works too, but not as well. I bought all mine back in 2004 & 2005 -- before CPSC started strong-arming businesses into really tightening down on dark flake sales. If you go to Skylighter.com, chemicals page, then scroll down to the dark flake, they have a link with each type of dark flake describing their (nearly impossible) order policy. Light flake has no such policy because it is not quite as brisiant. |