Posted: 10/26/2015 6:36:39 AM EDT
| Bought a 01 F150 not long ago didn't hear any noise form engine but after 100 mile trip getting it home was hearing a ticking/ratteling from engine.The truck had not been driven a lot lately I had been told. I tried an engine oil flush and it did nothing I changed lash adjusters and still had the noise. Over the last 5 days I pulled the timing cover off and found my problem timing tensioners were worn out, I got those changed out and started it up yesterday afternoon and engine is nice and quiet now. BUT... Now in park the engine runs smooth at idle and if you rev it up it smooth. When you put it in gear you can just barely feel it get a little rough running. When you start to accelerate or when the engine is under a load it is very rough like its misfiring. I am not getting any codes yet. I have double checked all connections and all vacuum lines look good. Only thing I havn't checked is the EGR (not sure how) and could that cause my issue anyway? I searched last night and saw some similar sounding things as my issue and they were saying they had a bad COP. Is there an easy way to find out if I have a bad one? I know I can just put all new COP's on but im tight on $$ now so would like to put it off for a while if I can. I also saw posts about cleaning the throttle body fixing it for some. When I first got the truck I cleaned the engine and got water in 1 of the spark plug holes and it feels the same as when I had that bad coil thats why im thinking it a bad COP. So after all that(sorry for long post) am I on the right track or should I be looking at something else being my problem? THANKS! |
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OK, i'll try to help here, First do you KNOW for certain the timing chain timing is correct? this happens alot, also if the CKP trigger wheel came off, is it installed correctly? the problem diag over the internet is no diag specs can be given, such as what is relative compression and power balance look like with the IDS(Ford diag laptop and software) there are also data that can be looked at, such as crank angle Learn, etc..........
i get these basket cases weekly at the shop, mostly from other shops that have done the same repairs. i'm in no way jabbing at you or the work you performed, just asking questions also walk away from every guy on the internet that had the "same problem" and fixed it with X repair, you are going to sink money in the wrong areas FAST! where in Ga are you located 
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Quoted:
OK, i'll try to help here, First do you KNOW for certain the timing chain timing is correct? this happens alot, also if the CKP trigger wheel came off, is it installed correctly? the problem diag over the internet is no diag specs can be given, such as what is relative compression and power balance look like with the IDS(Ford diag laptop and software) there are also data that can be looked at, such as crank angle Learn, etc.......... i get these basket cases weekly at the shop, mostly from other shops that have done the same repairs. i'm in no way jabbing at you or the work you performed, just asking questions also walk away from every guy on the internet that had the "same problem" and fixed it with X repair, you are going to sink money in the wrong areas FAST! where in Ga are you located Im in Columbus. I want to say im 100% sure on the timing being correct I double checked it several times over 2 different days. CKP trigger?(the wheel between the crank timing sprocket and the crank pulley with all the teeth on it?) if so yes its on correct. On that note I didnt think about it until after I did it but I installed the new crankshaft seal in the timing cover and didnt take out the sensor could banging in a new seal have damaged that sensor(the one that reads the teeth on the wheel on the crankshaft) |
| Just replace all the coil packs with new ones. I just did this on my brothers expedition last month, bought them off of amazon for less than $50 for all 8. They have been working fine so far. Here is the link : new coil packs |
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Had the same motor in a Crown Vic. Did the rattling whenever I put regular gas in it. It liked the high octane stuff.
It eventually turned out that some of the coil packs went out and soon after, it blew a spark plug right out - ripping the threads on the way out. There is a kit to rethread the spark plug hole, but it's way beyond my skills. Not sure if the F150 motor is de-tuned to accept regular gas. Anyways, that's my experience with the 4.6 motor rattling. |
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Another thing to add when I first cranked it yesterday I let it idle for 6-8 minutes before I drove it so it had warmed up before driving it. I just went out and drove it when it was cold and it ran fine for the first 2-3 minutes. When it started getting rough the temp gauge was just above the "C" 1/8" above (it's an 1/8" below when first cranked). If that helps any?
Also THANKS! for helping. |
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Quoted:
Just replace all the coil packs with new ones. I just did this on my brothers expedition last month, bought them off of amazon for less than $50 for all 8. They have been working fine so far. Here is the link : new coil packs I know those coil packs are probally made on the same equipment as some name brand but im leary of buying "cheap" ones I'd rather buy brand name ones but am just tight on money right now. |
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Quoted:
don't buy all the coil packs, plugs, and coil boots are 90% of engine misfires, do you have a trusted shop that has the proper diag equipment? have them check basics before taking the autozone shotgun approach Was there ment to be a period behind coil packs and before plugs and boots? you mean plugs and boots are the cause most of the time? What about it running good before it started warming up does that help isolate the issue? |
yes on the period, sorry. look, sometimes vehicles need more attention than the do it yourselfer has equipment to deal with. that's not a shot at guys that do your own work. honestly you can't diag an issue over the internet, phone, etc........... it's just speculation on everyone's parts until your looking at it. that's why I tell people NOT to buy shotgun parts diag. could it need a coil, sure. could it have fuel trim issues, who knows until someone can look at and understand the data they are looking at. I know it sucks, but that's the truth, if you lived closer I would be happy to check it out for you. Driveability work is what I do day in and out. if there is any other advice I can give, i'll be happy to help out
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| I do understand about trying to diag. over the internet and I do thank you for your help. I drove it around some on the highway to make it miss more often and I did get it to through a code. P0306 misfire cyl.6. I picked up a new coil and when I changed it I noticed there was moisture in the plug hole. Im thinking what happened is when I did the chains I took off the top radiator hose off but did not drain the radiator. I covered the outlet from the motor at the thermostat but it did leak a little. Im guessing some of the fluid ran down the eadge of the head and got into that plug hole so it was shorting out the COP. Now I just need to get another coil as it was still a little rough and I did get a cyl. 5 misfire code as well and it had a little moisture as well. |
| Rudy is correct the intake or the intake gaskets will leak into the plug well, when moisture affects the coil, the boot is not sealing properly. make sure you put die-elect grease on the boot and get a fresh spark plug. i have seen many trucks with #6 and 7 have water intrusion other than coolant/ intake issues. if this truck is high mileage and you suspect intake gasket failure, when the intake is off, inspect the coolant passages very carefully if the intake is plastic. They will erode from the inside out, also check the cylinder head deck for cavitation/ pitting, this will also cause leaks. hopefully you will not have any of thees issues. while your doing all this work, i would recommend fresh motorcraft plugs and new coil boots all the way around, just checking the boxes for non issues later |
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Listen to vote he can get it right....
At first Glace I saw you got a timing issue. I know with the ford 3v motors the timing set is a bear and you should replace all parts related to the timing system imo. I myself will be diving into the world of cam phasers soon. VOTE: what's your opinion on the cam phaser delete.kits ? |
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so far I have seen no real side affects other than loss of low end acceleration, it's not bad, but if you drive them every day, you can tell. the biggest killer is non Ford oil filters that don't have anti drain back valves in the filter. but if you go that far do chains guides, tensioners, ect...........you will thank me for doing a complete replacement job. also have someone well versed in the timing, I constantly see engines that are missed timed that have been checked 2 or 3 times by another shop. when the time comes comes let me know i'll do what I can to help
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