Posted: 7/26/2011 12:04:04 AM EDT
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I am looking for some finish work to be done on my Yugo M70 and am wondering if anyone specifically is better with AK's in or near the twin cities?
Thanks, Nate |
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Complete rebuild is a relative term. What work were you thinking? Most don't consider doing a complete rebuild because often times that's only called for when the stamped receiver is FUBAR, and needs to be replaced. Doing that is essentially 'manufacturing' a new firearm. Usually only considered as a last resort. If you're talking about rectifying canted gas block, front sight tower, etc... That's different. What's the problem with the Century AK build? Reliability? Canting/Aesthetics? Doublefeeds? FTE? Just about anything is possible, but one must consider what the problem is, and what's a cost-effective solution. |
| Well long story short, there is a significant gap between the trunion and reciever. So much of a gap that when fired the reciever cover pops off! Kind of scary. After Century refused to take it due to length of ownership, I took it to Alhamans in Morristown for a fix. The solution they came up with was to solder a extension on to the cover to compensate for the gap. Not only does it look like crap but it not fixed correctly, still bothers me because I generally like Alhmans. I have posted on this subject before but never really got anywhere with where I could take it to get properly fixed. I don't mean to hijack nsz's thread just wish I could have a functioning M70. |
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Dear Element Arms -
I have a really nice Century built M70B1. My only complaint is the finish. Everything functions great! I am looking for a nice hot blue finish but I want it to look like a Yugo should with some "battle wear" to it. Is this something you guys could do? Thanks! nsz |
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Quoted:
Dear Element Arms - I have a really nice Century built M70B1. My only complaint is the finish. Everything functions great! I am looking for a nice hot blue finish but I want it to look like a Yugo should with some "battle wear" to it. Is this something you guys could do? Thanks! nsz We have one of the best gunsmiths around Bring it on up if he cant do it no one can! No job to small no job to big! |
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Well long story short, there is a significant gap between the trunion and reciever. So much of a gap that when fired the reciever cover pops off! Kind of scary. After Century refused to take it due to length of ownership, I took it to Alhamans in Morristown for a fix. The solution they came up with was to solder a extension on to the cover to compensate for the gap. Not only does it look like crap but it not fixed correctly, still bothers me because I generally like Alhmans. I have posted on this subject before but never really got anywhere with where I could take it to get properly fixed. I don't mean to hijack nsz's thread just wish I could have a functioning M70.
Can you post some pics with the hand guards removed and top cover in place? Be sure to get the whole receiver and rear sight base in there for me. Brick |
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Quoted:
Dear Element Arms - I have a really nice Century built M70B1. My only complaint is the finish. Everything functions great! I am looking for a nice hot blue finish but I want it to look like a Yugo should with some "battle wear" to it. Is this something you guys could do? Thanks! nsz He can blue. |
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Quoted:
Dear Element Arms - I have a really nice Century built M70B1. My only complaint is the finish. Everything functions great! I am looking for a nice hot blue finish but I want it to look like a Yugo should with some "battle wear" to it. Is this something you guys could do? Thanks! nsz I can throw it down my driveway a few times. My rates are pretty reasonable. |
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Quoted:
Well long story short, there is a significant gap between the trunion and reciever. So much of a gap that when fired the reciever cover pops off! Kind of scary. After Century refused to take it due to length of ownership, I took it to Alhamans in Morristown for a fix. The solution they came up with was to solder a extension on to the cover to compensate for the gap. Not only does it look like crap but it not fixed correctly, still bothers me because I generally like Alhmans. I have posted on this subject before but never really got anywhere with where I could take it to get properly fixed. I don't mean to hijack nsz's thread just wish I could have a functioning M70.
Can you post some pics with the hand guards removed and top cover in place? Be sure to get the whole receiver and rear sight base in there for me. Brick Here are a few pics, let me know what you think...  
 
 
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NSZ / Nate, for the refinishing work on the AK - I'm sure Chris does an excellent job! There are a few different ways to get the field worn polished blue color you're looking for, and Chris can probably take good care of you. Ah. I see - the pics help a lot! QUICK QUESTION: DOES THE GUN RUN RELIABLY - EVEN THOUGH THE TOP COVER CAN FLOP OFF??? I'd venture a guess that it DOES shoot just fine. Actually, what you have is NOT really a problemw with the receiver per-se... It's a problem with the barrel parts. The barrel was possibly not the original that came with the trunion (Century may have built this one with mixed parts not from the same original gun). A number of years ago (prior to the 2006/7 barrel ban) Century used to be able to get barrels with the gas block, front sight post, and rear sight base all completely intact. To build them, originally, the Yugoslavians would slide the trunion into the receiver, rivet it into place, and then press the barrel into the trunion, headspace it, and then cross pin the barrel into the Trunion when it has the proper headspacing. THEN the yugos would press the rear sight base onto the gun, so it butts up against the trunion, and then they'd cross pin that into place. Then slide on the lower handguard retaining plate assembly, then press on the gas block to a specific, pre-determined length (the length of the gas tube). Then the Yugos would pin the gas block in place, and then drill the gas PORT into the barrel (through the gas block). Then they press on the front sight and pin it, and install all the pins, springs, detent, etc... Then assemble the gun as if it were field stripped. Done. YOUR problem appears to be that the barrel on your gun may not have been the original barrel that went with your trunion... Century did the right thing - headspacing the barrel properly (so it functions and is safe to shoot), but since the rear sight base was pressed and pinned in place already, originally on a different trunion, there's a GAP between the Trunion and Rear Sight Base, and the distance between the rear trunion (where the recoil spring assembly locks the top cover in) has too long of a gap between the rear sight base, and the rear trunion. The top cover can flop off easily. Honestly, there ARE a couple different ways to fix this! Bring it up to the shop, and have Chris take a look at it... He can recommend which method he thinks is the best way to fix your problem... 
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Thanks for the help and information! In fact the rifle does function just fine, i guess it's just my ocd that wants it to look correct  One question though, who is Chris? Does he work for Element Arms? I've been wanting to take a trip up to becker but it's a haul from my part of the state. However, I'm always up for a road trip Any takers in SE Minnesota?
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Quoted:
Thanks for the help and information! In fact the rifle does function just fine, i guess it's just my ocd that wants it to look correct One question though, who is Chris? Does he work for Element Arms? I've been wanting to take a trip up to becker but it's a haul from my part of the state. However, I'm always up for a road trip Any takers in SE Minnesota?Chris is the gunsmith that is in the same building as Element Arms. |
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Yep, another century monkey job.
The rear sight base was not pressed back to its correct position, thus your top cover problem. It also makes for another problem. The gas block will also need to moved back to make the gas tube fit correctly. Because the gas port is already drilled into the barrel, it may be covered when the gas block is moved back. A simple fix would be to use a small ball end mill and cut a canal from the gas port hole back towards the receiver to where the gas port will be when the gas block is remounted. Pain in the butt but fixable! Brick |
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Personally, if I had the choice, the gun works just fine with the gas block in its current position, and it'd be unwise to move it and you'd lose accuracy by drilling a new gas hole. If it were my rifle, I'd press the pin out of the rear sight base, then use a 12 ton or 20 ton press to press the rear sight base back up against the trunion. THEN you have to affix the rear sight base in its new position. This can be done by either drilling a larger pin hole (BAD IDEA since you'd have to drill further into the barrel near the chamber end - KABOOM may occur), or you could drill a new pin hole closer to the rear of the barrel/rifle. This could also be less than desirable... Or you could use another method to fix it in its new position. However, as mentioned, the distance between the gas block and rear sight base will be too long for the gas tube to fit properly. I'd just weld on another ~1/16" extension to the FRONT of the gas tube, and leave the gas block where it is... That way your gun will still function just as reliably as before, but your front handguard will now also line up perfectly (top to bottom). The only real part you'd have to refinish is maybe the gas tube (where the front was extended), and maaaaybe the barrel/rear sight base area, but that's hidden by the lower handguard anyway, so for my personal gun I'd be fine with just touch-up refinishing in that area. This way, the top cover will fit properly, the top handguard will properly align with the bottom handguard, and the rear sight base will be properly seated further back, and the gap will be eliminated. I suspect that's likely what Chris might recommend, or he might think of some other way to go about it that works even better. |
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Personally, if I had the choice, the gun works just fine with the gas block in its current position, and it'd be unwise to move it and you'd lose accuracy by drilling a new gas hole
He won't need a new gas port, the short channel / canal from the old port to the gas block hole will work fine. The gas just takes a short detour. Move the gas block back and re-pin it, after checking the gas tube fits correctly and the gas block hole lands over the canal. If it were my rifle, I'd press the pin out of the rear sight base, then use a 12 ton or 20 ton press to press the rear sight base back up against the trunion. THEN you have to affix the rear sight base in its new position. This can be done by either drilling a larger pin hole (BAD IDEA since you'd have to drill further into the barrel near the chamber end - KABOOM may occur), or you could drill a new pin hole closer to the rear of the barrel/rifle. This could also be less than desirable... Or you could use another method to fix it in its new position.
The RSB doesn't actually have to touch the trunion, what you want is to line up the vertical flat of the back of the RSB (under the "hood" that holds the top cover) to be aligned with the track cut into the trunion for the top cover. Check the fit with your top cover and adjust as necessary. You can re-pin it with an up sized pin, there is plenty of metal for this. However, as mentioned, the distance between the gas block and rear sight base will be too long for the gas tube to fit properly. I'd just weld on another ~1/16" extension to the FRONT of the gas tube, and leave the gas block where it is... That way your gun will still function just as reliably as before, but your front handguard will now also line up perfectly (top to bottom). The only real part you'd have to refinish is maybe the gas tube (where the front was extended), and maaaaybe the barrel/rear sight base area, but that's hidden by the lower handguard anyway, so for my personal gun I'd be fine with just touch-up refinishing in that area.
This is just not worth doing. Cost depends on who you get to do it, I think most smiths are between $40-$60 bucks an hour. This stuff is not hard to do, but you should use good equipment to ensure quality results. A mill for milling the new pin holes to assure they are straight and also for the gas channel slot. Brick |
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Yes, there are a lot of ways to do it. I'm not a professional gunsmith, but I'd see what a Professional suggests first. The ball end milled gas channel would work well if you can cut it just right. Pinning does work better when using an end mill to cut the new pin holes. That's what I had to do for my RPK kit. Headspace the new green mountain barrel, then drill an oversize pin hole for the cross pin. Welding a gas tube isn't all that difficult either if you know what you're doing, and can clean it up nicely. Talk to a Professional to get their opinion. Costs will vary from one method to another. |