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AR15.COM
3/18/2010 3:15:06 PM EDT
Hey bro, have fun on the peak this weekend. I hope all goes well and i am sorry I could not join you.
3/18/2010 4:57:27 PM EDT
[#1]
It's been warm and sunny the last few days, with snow due tonight through Saturday.  If it was me, I'd put it off to another day...  Avalanche training might be good for winter climbing conditions.
3/18/2010 5:26:46 PM EDT
[#2]
I might agree but Matt has thought this through and whatever decision he makes will be well planned and cleared through his household 6 no doubt.
3/19/2010 6:55:00 AM EDT
[#3]
Huh...  Don't know how I missed this thread before starting my own...

My biggest concerns as a result of this weather remain the same –– above the tree-line.  This is the part of Barr Trail that is both steep and exposed.  

The plan for Saturday is to make it to the A-Frame at timberline several hours before sunset.  We'll spend the night there and evaluate whether or not to make a summit bid the following morning.  This means we'll get both rest and food into our stomachs before deciding to go or not.

The primary concern in this exposed environment during this weather is avalanches.  Now there is never any guarantee that an avalanche will not happen, but every single measurement I've been able to take of the east face shows a 25-degree slope, or less.  This is pertinent because, while most avalanches occur on slopes between 25 and 60 degrees, the most frequent ones are on slopes between 30 and 45 degrees.

In addition to those avalanche considerations, there are four more to take into account:

1) The east slope is out of the majority of the wind exposure Pikes Peak receives from west winds.  This means the snow is less likely to be agitated during the day.

2) The east slope catches the sun as it rises, which means the snow is receiving heat well before the surrounding air temperature begins to supply it.  Once the east slope is out of the sun later in the evening, the ambient air temperature has typically increased to a higher point to continue the "warming effect" the snow receives.  This is important because it means that fresh, powdery and/or granular snow begins to melt - if even just a little bit - and freezes over-night.  Or, more properly put, because of this the majority of the time, any snow that falls on the east face is turned into ice pretty soon.  This means less layered snow, which means less chance of heavy, compacted snow sitting on top of loose, granular snow, which is commonly what triggers an avalance.

3) During this weather, above tree-line, the trail disappears.  It's covered in snow and ice, so you just can't find it.  However, this can be a blessing in disguise.  If there's enough snow to hide the trail, there's a good chance that there's enough snow to make a straighter attempt at the summit by crossing over rocks that, while they would obstruct your efforts without snow, enough snow over it can provide you a flat, stable surface upon which to cross over.

4) In speaking with people who have done winter ascents to Pikes, it seems that the last time there was an avalanche on the east slow was a couple years ago, and the one before that was many, many years before it.  This isn't a guarantee that it won't happen when I'm out there, but it's nice to know.

So, considering all these factors, the east slope of Pikes isn't very prone to avalanches at all.  Oh yes, it can happen!  And that's why I'm bringing a weather radio on the attempt and going to make the go/no-go decision that morning after evaluating the conditions.

We'll see what happens...

_MaH

ETA:  There is also the chance that this snow is falling from clouds that are lower than the timberline.  If that's the case, then it means that while it's snowing here in the Springs, higher up on the trail, we'll have a beautifully sunny and clear day.  I'm personally hoping for this one, but not relying on it.

ETA 2:  Now mathematically confirmed via topographical map readings:

A-Frame Elevation: 11,250 feet
Summit Elevation: 14,100 feet (rounded down 10 feet)
Difference: 2,850 feet elevation gain from A-Frame to Summit

Lat/Long distance between two points (no elevation considered): 1.2 miles = 6,336 feet

Slope of a line = Rise/Run

2,850 (Rise) / 6,336 (Run) = 0.45 slope (not angle)

Take the arc tangent of the slope to determine the angle in degress:

arctan(0.45) ~= [b]24.22 degrees
3/19/2010 7:26:33 AM EDT
[#4]
Wish I could go.

I will be hitting you up for as many 14'ers as possible starting in May and going through July before my deployment to A-stan.

Got a lot of new gear that I can show you by the way and I will also be getting all the new Multicam goodies this summer.

By the way, we need to go shoot! Probably be in May but I can wait for that. Need to test out the new Acog I just picked up too.
3/19/2010 8:38:53 AM EDT
[#5]
A guy got killed in an avalanche on the east face of the peak a few years ago.  Be on your toes.
3/19/2010 9:53:11 AM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
A guy got killed in an avalanche on the east face of the peak a few years ago.  Be on your toes.


Yeah, that's the avalanche I was referencing in my above post.

Bold climbers die.  Smart climbers live.

I have no interest in dying from summit fever.

_MaH
3/19/2010 10:05:32 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:

2) The east slope catches the sun as it rises, which means the snow is receiving heat well before the surrounding air temperature begins to supply it.  Once the east slope is out of the sun later in the evening, the ambient air temperature has typically increased to a higher point to continue the "warming effect" the snow receives.  This is important because it means that fresh, powdery and/or granular snow begins to melt - if even just a little bit - and freezes over-night.  Or, more properly put, because of this the majority of the time, any snow that falls on the east face is turned into ice pretty soon.  This means less layered snow, which means less chance of heavy, compacted snow sitting on top of loose, granular snow, which is commonly what triggers an avalance.



Since we're talking about avalanches...melting snow can actually be a big cause of avalanches.  The water trickles down through the snow cover to the ground where it runs downhill.  This can create a sort of river under the snow, especially in spring.  Because of this "river" the snow cover looses its adhesion to the ground and an entire slope can break free.  You'll see this during the spring on slopes as you travel around the state...it's easy to tell this type of avalanche because the ground will be bare where it happened.  Most of the time after an avalanche the slope will still be white.  But after this type you'll see the dirt and grass.  If you haven't already, avalanche class is pretty cool...there was even one the Woodland Park park and rec department put on years ago for only a few bucks which included a trip to the Peak to dig and identify avalanche conditions...don't know if they still do it though.  

3/19/2010 10:21:33 AM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
Quoted:

2) The east slope catches the sun as it rises, which means the snow is receiving heat well before the surrounding air temperature begins to supply it.  Once the east slope is out of the sun later in the evening, the ambient air temperature has typically increased to a higher point to continue the "warming effect" the snow receives.  This is important because it means that fresh, powdery and/or granular snow begins to melt - if even just a little bit - and freezes over-night.  Or, more properly put, because of this the majority of the time, any snow that falls on the east face is turned into ice pretty soon.  This means less layered snow, which means less chance of heavy, compacted snow sitting on top of loose, granular snow, which is commonly what triggers an avalance.



Since we're talking about avalanches...melting snow can actually be a big cause of avalanches.  The water trickles down through the snow cover to the ground where it runs downhill.  This can create a sort of river under the snow, especially in spring.  Because of this "river" the snow cover looses its adhesion to the ground and an entire slope can break free.  You'll see this during the spring on slopes as you travel around the state...it's easy to tell this type of avalanche because the ground will be bare where it happened.  Most of the time after an avalanche the slope will still be white.  But after this type you'll see the dirt and grass.  If you haven't already, avalanche class is pretty cool...there was even one the Woodland Park park and rec department put on years ago for only a few bucks which included a trip to the Peak to dig and identify avalanche conditions...don't know if they still do it though.  



Ah, I'm glad you mentioned that!

I'm very aware of this, and actually the most concerning part of this effort to me is going to be the descent from summit to timberline.

For the very reasons you mentioned, I want to be off the summit by noon –– just like one would want to be off it for storm/lightning reasons.

That lovely slope of hard snow or ice in the early morning will begin to turn to slush after noon.  That is the *LAST* thing I want to descend down on.  That, or what you've mentioned.

Assuming we pull the trigger on the summit attempt, we'll be leaving camp right at, or not long after, sunrise.  Maybe earlier - depends how we're feeling and what the conditions are.

_MaH
3/20/2010 11:08:48 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:


1) The east slope is out of the majority of the wind exposure Pikes Peak receives from west winds.  This means the snow is less likely to be agitated during the day.



3) During this weather, above tree-line, the trail disappears.  It's covered in snow and ice, so you just can't find it.  However, this can be a blessing in disguise.  If there's enough snow to hide the trail, there's a good chance that there's enough snow to make a straighter attempt at the summit by crossing over rocks that, while they would obstruct your efforts without snow, enough snow over it can provide you a flat, stable surface upon which to cross over.




_________________________________________________________________________________





as for 1. most avalanches run on your E NE aspects due to wind loading. While you don't have the upslope winds picking up the snow like the western aspects just remember that the snow that gets picked up by those western winds all gets deposited on the eastern face. Thus leaving a deep heavy and unstable pile of shit hanging over your head

and as for 3 refer to 1