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AR15.COM
7/11/2008 8:50:56 PM EDT
99 300m

Background, got hot when the cooling fans went out on july 2.  She pulled into a parking lot asap but I dont know how hot it got.  Wouldn't restart when I got there.  Would turnover and fire on a couple cylinders but wouldn't even get close to an idle.  Went inside and ate dinner, came out and it started, idled rough and the check engine light came on.  Cleared up and had been fine ever since, new fans and fuses.  CEL turned off the next day.  

Flash forward to today.   Stomped on it on the freeway to get around traffic because the exit was coming up.  Downshifted and revved up to 5500 and stayed there, had to back off so it would shift.  On the exit ramp it stalled and would not restart.  Same symptoms as when it got hot on july 2 except no CEL.  

Will start now, but will not idle.  Everytime the idle drops to about 500 rpm, the oil light comes on and it dies, it will stay running if you open the throttle but it is running rough.
7/11/2008 8:59:27 PM EDT
[#1]
Stab in the dark here but I think it's possible to compromise a head gasket and still have the combustion chambers sealed up (no white smoke). May allow oil into cooling system or visa versa depending on whether a pressurized oil passage lost it's seal.

Maybe a stretch but I would at least check oil for water (will be milky) or water for oil (obvious oil bubbles floating in water).
7/11/2008 9:11:11 PM EDT
[#2]

Quoted:
Stab in the dark here but I think it's possible to compromise a head gasket and still have the combustion chambers sealed up (no white smoke). May allow oil into cooling system or visa versa depending on whether a pressurized oil passage lost it's seal.

Maybe a stretch but I would at least check oil for water (will be milky) or water for oil (obvious oil bubbles floating in water).



Already checked. both look fine.


I am thinking cam or crank sensor,
7/11/2008 9:28:12 PM EDT
[#3]
Given the circumstances, I would guess a head gasket as well, or maybe a head is warped? its hard to say without being with the vehicle. It doesn't sound out of the question for a sensor on the head to get too hot and quit working?
7/11/2008 11:09:07 PM EDT
[#4]
Code is p0302, misfire no. 2 cylinder, only code set.
7/11/2008 11:34:21 PM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
Code is p0302, misfire no. 2 cylinder, only code set.


Coil pack on #2.
Throttle position sensor?  For the 5000 RPM and stay deal.

Sounds like you've got problems.
7/12/2008 5:05:29 AM EDT
[#6]
Have had a look at the spark plugs yet? Particularly #2.
7/12/2008 9:17:53 AM EDT
[#7]
Given it's past history..I would compression check the #2 hole....compression check them all and compare  the numbers..they should all be within 10 to 20 lbs of each other....and each cylinder needs at least 100 psi to properly fire.

7/12/2008 9:21:53 AM EDT
[#8]
Check the flux capacitor.  Hope this helps...
7/12/2008 12:05:08 PM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:
Given it's past history..I would compression check the #2 hole....compression check them all and compare  the numbers..they should all be within 10 to 20 lbs of each other....and each cylinder needs at least 100 psi to properly fire.




Dumb Question, how are these cylinders numbered?
7/12/2008 12:39:34 PM EDT
[#10]
Time for a compression test.

That'll tell you if the head gasket is toast.

That's definitely what the symptoms are pointing to in my head.
7/12/2008 1:14:28 PM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Given it's past history..I would compression check the #2 hole....compression check them all and compare  the numbers..they should all be within 10 to 20 lbs of each other....and each cylinder needs at least 100 psi to properly fire.




Dumb Question, how are these cylinders numbered?




front of car-------->

5  3   1

6  4   2
7/12/2008 4:52:32 PM EDT
[#12]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:
Given it's past history..I would compression check the #2 hole....compression check them all and compare  the numbers..they should all be within 10 to 20 lbs of each other....and each cylinder needs at least 100 psi to properly fire.




Dumb Question, how are these cylinders numbered?




front of car-------->

5  3   1

6  4   2



Thank you, all the plugs looked fine, coils resistance is in spec, will do a compression check when it cools down enough to go outside.
7/12/2008 4:54:31 PM EDT
[#13]
What engine is it?
7/12/2008 5:28:54 PM EDT
[#14]

Quoted:
What engine is it?



the aluminum one with the plastic and some wires



3.5 HO
7/12/2008 6:03:22 PM EDT
[#15]


The first thing I would check on that engine is cam timing (make sure timing belt is lined up with the marks).

It is very common on those engines for the water pump bearing to fail and cause the cam (left side, usually) to jump a tooth.

Chrysler engines won't run without  cam and crankshaft sensor signals.

Even one tooth out of synch will cause a no-start, stall, random misfire and other symptoms BUT the compression will appear normal.

Good luck.
7/31/2008 6:11:20 PM EDT
[#16]
overheating was coincidental.

The cam belt tensioner failed and when I stepped on it on the freeway, it jumped some teeth and died.

It would start cold and run ok for about 10 minutes and then it would die like you shut off the ignition. no restart until cool.

Good guess ampn


Quoted:

The first thing I would check on that engine is cam timing (make sure timing belt is lined up with the marks).

It is very common on those engines for the water pump bearing to fail and cause the cam (left side, usually) to jump a tooth.

Chrysler engines won't run without  cam and crankshaft sensor signals.

Even one tooth out of synch will cause a no-start, stall, random misfire and other symptoms BUT the compression will appear normal.

Good luck.