Posted: 5/26/2007 10:22:50 AM EDT
| I've never mounted a scope before. Mueller, gives pretty straight forward directions. Is there anything else I should know, attempt, avoid? |
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Make sure to do a proper bore sight when mounting your scope. Instructions Do not overtighten the rings. |
Is there any form of bore sighting you can do with an AR? |
There's an array of gadgets that kinda work, sorta, for semis, levers and pumps. (You can borrow mine if you live near me or want to pay postage both ways) I don't bother with it anymore. I; shoot a marked cardboard box at 30 yards once, dial in. Move to 50 yards, repeat for windage only, but leave elevation alone. Then proceed to dial in at 100 yards. There's an old saying, that's relatively true for most ceterfires (rifle); On at 30, on at 100. Try it, you might like it. 
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That sounds reasonable. I suppose the only thing that concerns me at this point is getting the reticle squared. Is there any way to do this other than just eyeballing it? |
.223 Bore Sight EXPENSIVE .223 Bore Sight NOT EXPENSIVE |
My opinion only, but if you buy any of the gadgets they sell for that, you get a man card suspension.  Honestly, eyeballing it is what you need to do, though it's not as hard as it might seem. Keep in mind that many successful competitive silhouette shooters cant their reticles at 3-10 degrees (clockwise for right handers) I like a square/plumb reticle myself. Once eye relief is established, semi-tighten one ring only. Leave the other until you're completely happy with the settings/position. The scope should be movable with finger strength only, but no less. Hold the rifle away from you at arms length, so you can see the buttstock shoulder surface. Doing this allows you to see the vertical plumb of the rifle while viewing the reticle. This works best with the scope on its lowest magnification. You can point the rifle towards the ground at an angle... no need to hold it horizontally, pointing away from you. Adjust until you feel it's the best you can get it. Then, test it by shouldering the rifle several times to see if the reticle comes up square & plum for you. I prefer to do this somewhere that I have a clear view of distant structure. Looking at a roof line, or horizontal lap siding on a building, (squarely mind you) quickly reveals error in your hold or the indexing of the reticle. A pencil mark on the ring and scope greatly helps in slight adjustment of the reticle. This way, you can tell where you started and where you need to go without re-judging past adjustments. The pencil mark rubs off easily when complete. Once completely satisfied, tighten both sides of the ring evenly. 1/4 turn per screw until tight. This is very important with matte finish scopes, since they tend to turn the scope with them as you tighten. Then tighten the other ring to finish the job.  Common mistakes are to mount the scope 90 degrees off, (windage and elevation turrets off 90 degrees, happens to many newer shooters), or to forget to tighten the mounts fully before mounting the scope, or to over-tighten the rings, which severely degrades the resale value of your scope) |
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I went and spent the money on a LaserLyte bore sighter after spending about $22 in ammo trying to get my .50 on paper. That's about 8 rounds.  You can't "look down the bore" on a Barrett M99 or a 10/22. IMHO a laser bore sighter is the only way to get your scope/iron sights on pape, and if you are going to keep aquiring new firearms or scopes/dot sights. The sights on one of my K31's was off, I found it out before I actually shot it. I adjusted the front sight at 50 yards and when I shot it it was dead on. Nice looking rifle. Now ditch those scope rings and get a LaRue SPR-E mount so you can keep your nose on the charging handle.  |