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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - ATI AT94 A2 (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 6/2/2012 4:21:40 PM EDT
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I couldn't find a posts on this,
Has anyone converted one of these to 922r compliant and if so, what parts am I going to need? (Links appreciated) |
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I couldn't find a posts on this, Has anyone converted one of these to 922r compliant and if so, what parts am I going to need? (Links appreciated) Here's the easiest US parts to replace to get you to 922r compliance: Trigger Hammer Sear Cocking Handle Buttstock Forearm Here's a worksheet that allows you to see what parts you need to replace that gets you compliance: MP5 Gunwiki Finally, the buttstock is welded to the trigger housing, so getting that off might be a problem. If you replace the trigger housing, it also counts toward a compliance part. You can find all the compliance parts at hkparts.net |
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Any easy way to remove the stock? Seemed stuck and fused to the trigger housing They are welded together. ATF required it for import approval. Yes, Trying to get to the bolt carrier, but the stock and trigger housing wont come off after removing the push pins. |
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Any easy way to remove the stock? Seemed stuck and fused to the trigger housing They are welded together. ATF required it for import approval. Yes, Trying to get to the bolt carrier, but the stock and trigger housing wont come off after removing the push pins. Last time I was looking at one in the shop with a gun smith, we more or less had to pull straight back on the stock. I don't know if trying to cock it would help depress the ejector and hammer to help it clear the receiver. Once it was off, I'm sure you could use another A2 stock and grip housing and still use the same trigger pack. That would make disassembly easier in the future. |
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You will have to do more than replace parts, the magwell was made such that you can't use regular MP5 mags, at least not without a good amount of metalwork. Metalwork? There are two pieces of round stock welded into the front of the magwell, so that they only work with the low-cap modified mags that come with the gun. 10 minutes with a Dremel will remove these encumbrances and once you change out the parts to 922r compliant, you can run high-caps. Not a big deal. The easiest route would be to get your hands on one the 94P pistol model. This only requires changing the parts to 922r and no magwell work. Plus you won't have to worry about messing with detaching a buttstock from a trigger housing. |
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Maybe a few light taps from a rubber mallet if it's really tight? Mine comes apart very easily. I just remove the two pins and the two halves come apart just like an AR. Well, this is a bitch! Upper and lower just won't come apart. Here's a video detailing removal of the well bars: Well Bar Removal |
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Well, I pulled the trigger... ATI AT94-A2 incoming next week.
He is throwing in a PTR handle pack (5 us pieces according to their web site) I'm going to miss my FS2000, but I'm tailoring my weapons to one caliber, 9mm. Anyone know a distributor for US made telescoping stocks? Is this thread appropriate for the HK forums? I don't want to step on toes... so to speak. If not, let me know where to move it to. This is the HK forum after all, not the MP5 and Clones forum. |
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A US made cocking handle and forearm will get you 2 more 922r pieces. That way you can choose a foreign stock if you want. Anyone have any preferences on these parts.... I know where to get them, just not sure where the best place to get them is. HKparts Or RTG Cant go wrong with either one... |
OK, so the weapon will be here next Monday.
I'm getting a PTR grip pack with it as part of the trade, from what I have read, replace the hammer spring and extractor and you are good to go. (Any thoughts) That's 5 922r parts. (I'm going to replace 7 to be safe) and run any mags I can get... Well, after the mag well surgery of course... I've got a complete dremel set, and my bro and I will be gentle. The remaining parts to swap are; 
and 
I'm going to add 4 of the rails. After all this, one more piece and I'll be done; 
Does anyone else recomend other changes? |
| On my MKE, I replaced the MKE grip housing for a Navy style clipped and pinned one. You can still use your trigger pack, but you will get the two push pin look and have a place in the grip to hold a cleaning kit or thread protector holder. You can keep your MKE housing or sell it. I sold mine and it covered most of the cost of the clipped and pinned housing. |
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Arrgghhhh....
The package seems to be stuck in Jackson, MS. at the UPS facility.... since last Friday. Target delivery date was yesterday. Here I sit with an A3 stock, US charging Handle, PTR Grip pack, 150 piece Dremel kit, 400 rounds of 9mm, and 250 pounds of anticipation.... 
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Quoted: I remember clowns here saying the MKEs would not go up in value after they stopped importing them  To put it simply, if you really watch the market, you'll notice that they're not going up in value. A lightly used one sold this month with a Surefire forend, already converted magwell, Bill Wilson trigger job and an A3 stock for $1675. Doing the math, it's easy to see that sellers are not exactly making out hand-over-fist on 'em. |
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I remember clowns here saying the MKEs would not go up in value after they stopped importing them To put it simply, if you really watch the market, you'll notice that they're not going up in value. A lightly used one sold this month with a Surefire forend, already converted magwell, Bill Wilson trigger job and an A3 stock for $1675. Doing the math, it's easy to see that sellers are not exactly making out hand-over-fist on 'em. These were selling for around $1100 NIB and now go for $1600 minimum NIB. Citing a used example with aftermarket work is not a valid example. These will be selling for $2500 to $3000 NIB just like FMP or Hellenic Arms G3s do. |
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Quoted: These were selling for around $1100 NIB and now go for $1600 minimum NIB. Citing a used example with aftermarket work is not a valid example. These will be selling for $2500 to $3000 NIB just like FMP or Hellenic Arms G3s do. A completely neutered gun was selling for $1100, the desireable non-ATFucked pistols were closer to $1400. To inject more doubt into the numbers you're giving, $2.5-$3k is the price of a NIB German 91. The only times you'll see those asking prices on an FMP or Hellenic it's usually accopanied with "My wife is making me sell it!" That way, he can go tell his wife "Look honey, I'm trying to sell it but nobody's buying! |
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These were selling for around $1100 NIB and now go for $1600 minimum NIB. Citing a used example with aftermarket work is not a valid example. These will be selling for $2500 to $3000 NIB just like FMP or Hellenic Arms G3s do. A completely neutered gun was selling for $1100, the desireable non-ATFucked pistols were closer to $1400. To inject more doubt into the numbers you're giving, $2.5-$3k is the price of a NIB German 91. The only times you'll see those asking prices on an FMP or Hellenic it's usually accopanied with "My wife is making me sell it!" That way, he can go tell his wife "Look honey, I'm trying to sell it but nobody's buying! I paid $1100 for my AT94K pistol from gordon miller. I paid $1200 for my AT94P from a dealer in TX. Please show me NIB HK91s for $2500 to $3000 so I can buy them. Here is an example of an AT94K that sold for over $1600 NIB awhile back: http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=283936239 This one went for $1900: http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=282819626 |
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I remember clowns here saying the MKEs would not go up in value after they stopped importing them To put it simply, if you really watch the market, you'll notice that they're not going up in value. A lightly used one sold this month with a Surefire forend, already converted magwell, Bill Wilson trigger job and an A3 stock for $1675. Doing the math, it's easy to see that sellers are not exactly making out hand-over-fist on 'em.  I bought my 94p 2 years ago NIB for $1100. Now they go for 1600 on GB as John said. That is for NIB.
"if you really watch the market", you would know that. Look on GB now and the last NIB one went for 1500. It would have gone higher but the buyer set that is the BIN price and it got snatched up within hours of being posted. |
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I bought my 94p 2 years ago NIB for $1100. Now they go for 1600 on GB as John said. That is for NIB.
"if you really watch the market", you would know that. Look on GB now and the last NIB one went for 1500. It would have gone higher but the buyer set that is the BIN price and it got snatched up within hours of being posted. So far, parts included, I've got 1900 bucks in this one..... I'm planning on getting aTrijicon RX30-23 42mm Reflex Scope - 6.5 MOA Amber, With a UTG (cheap, but with great reviews) claw mount, my cost on this weapon will be $2600. |
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Has anybody here actually removed the bars before? And if so, what bits do you recomend? Would really appreciate some input here, the only vid on youtube actually bypasses the work, claiming it is boring... maybe so, but for someone about to start cutting on a $1900 dollar investment, I'd like to see it done, start to finish.... if you know what I mean. 
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I'm getting a PTR grip pack with it as part of the trade, from what I have read, replace the hammer spring and extractor and you are good to go. (Any thoughts) No need to replace extractor unless it does not work. Leave it be. I meant to say ejector.... I will need to replace the ejector right? |
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Ok, so I got the rifle yesterday... I've replaced the "cocking handle"... that was fun, and the foregrip....
Hopefully, the PTR Grip pack will be here today. Anyone know what that circular "catch" piece on the left side of the magwell is? At first I thought it was a sling hook, but I'm not so sure. |
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Ok, so I got the rifle yesterday... I've replaced the "cocking handle"... that was fun, and the foregrip.... Hopefully, the PTR Grip pack will be here today. Anyone know what that circular "catch" piece on the left side of the magwell is? At first I thought it was a sling hook, but I'm not so sure. That's exactly what it is. It hooks onto the HK style 3-point sling. |
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I agree on the mke prices going up on all the pistols. I wouldn't jump on them as a major investment, but they're not bad to have around in case you need a quick buck.
That said, hk91s do pop up from time to time in the high 2000s. The demand for them isn't as great as the hk93s or 94s, those prices are getting ridiculous, especially for an sp89. Sigh... 
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I bought my 94p 2 years ago NIB for $1100. Now they go for 1600 on GB as John said. That is for NIB. "if you really watch the market", you would know that. Look on GB now and the last NIB one went for 1500. It would have gone higher but the buyer set that is the BIN price and it got snatched up within hours of being posted. Gunbroker is but a sliver of the equation. A narrow focus achieves your desired argumentative points, however, I'm not exactly breaking any news to anyone who's been around these parts for longer than the year of your tenure/attenuation and has watched your tunnel-visioned commentary for all things MKE. |
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I bought my 94p 2 years ago NIB for $1100. Now they go for 1600 on GB as John said. That is for NIB.
"if you really watch the market", you would know that. Look on GB now and the last NIB one went for 1500. It would have gone higher but the buyer set that is the BIN price and it got snatched up within hours of being posted. Gunbroker is but a sliver of the equation. A narrow focus achieves your desired argumentative points, however, I'm not exactly breaking any news to anyone who's been around these parts for longer than the year of your tenure/attenuation and has watched your tunnel-visioned commentary for all things MKE.
GB is a better indicator of the market than anything you've put up to back your arguments (ie nothing). BTW, if you're going to try so hard to come off as intelligent by using big words (which aren't really that big... perhaps in your case...) you would do well to learn what they mean first. Entiendes? |
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[ Gunbroker is but a sliver of the equation. A narrow focus achieves your desired argumentative points, however, I'm not exactly breaking any news to anyone who's been around these parts for longer than the year of your tenure/attenuation and has watched your tunnel-visioned commentary for all things MKE.
I'm not getting into the bickering, however, if you wouldn't mind clueing me in to where or why the negative influence of MKE has come to raise it's ugly head, it would be most appreciated. This is my first dealing with them, and if there are major issues, I would like to hear about them now. The only thing I've found really wrong with my A2 is the bars in the magwell. The rest gets replaceed on the 922r checklist anyway. I don't consider the bars a big deal....As my dremel is hungry. On that note, what does anyone recomend to finish the bare metal with when I'm done.... Cold Blue? |
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Instead of permanently hacking up the magwell, has anyone tried notching a 30 round magazine? Of course after 922r parts are installed. 1. You don't have to "hack" up the magwell. Actually, if you do it carefully, you are actually UN-hacking the magwell. 2. Why would you cut up perfectly good 30 round mags? If you look closely at the cut MKE mags, they have seriously compromised the integrity of the mag with the cut needed for those blocking bars. There is only a little sliver of metal holding the front face to the sides at the top. I'd bet that if you stepped on the mag, you'd bend it, at least on my one mag. |
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1. You don't have to "hack" up the magwell. Actually, if you do it carefully, you are actually UN-hacking the magwell. 2. Why would you cut up perfectly good 30 round mags? If you look closely at the cut MKE mags, they have seriously compromised the integrity of the mag with the cut needed for those blocking bars. There is only a little sliver of metal holding the front face to the sides at the top. I'd bet that if you stepped on the mag, you'd bend it, at least on my one mag. Its a bit easier to cut up a $30-75 perfectly good magazine than a $1400+ receiver. Didn't think about structural issues with notching the magazine. Again a $75 mistake is a bit easier to recover from. |
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Good news... I got the A3 Stock and the US grip installed. I actually had to mill metal off of the back of the grip and reciever.... Just a fraction of a mm, but it had to be done. I got the Foregrip and the cocking handle installed as well.
The bad news... The trigger pack was german. The parts could be US, but I have no idea how to tell. The pieces have no marking on them whatsoever. The trigger pack did have a .308 ejector and a much more stout hammer spring; 308 as well I'm guessing. Anyway, I went ahead swapped out the 9mm spring and ejector. I need to order the parts and assemble a trigger pack. I can get away without replacing the trigger housing, but I think I'm going to order one anyway. It's going to have to wait on the Milling of the Magwell though... 4 of 6 doesn't cut it at all.
Now... Pics!!!! 
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.....I actually had to mill metal off of the back of the grip and receiver.... Just a fraction of a mm, but it had to be done..... Interesting. Can you provide more detail, specificly why the receiver had to milled? I can understand having to "fit" a US made part sometimes, but the receiver should be good? |
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Yes, Where the grip and the reciever come together by the pin, the reciever stuck out a little bit more than the grip. The Stock was hitting on the reciever at that point, and the pin holes would not line up. I could have milled the stock material out, but it made sense to me to match the reciever to the grip. The material that was sticking out was uneven on the reciever anyway, now both pieces are flat. The amount of material we are talking about is tiny... maybe .3 of a mm.
I did have to "Fit" the US grip as well.... it was so tight against the frame.... A little 80 grit sand paper on a block, and 30 seconds, follow that up with some polishing paper and the plastic looked and fit fantastic. Once all is said and done... what should I put on the bare metal to protect it?.... Krylon just doesn't seem right. Maybe just some cold blue, it can't be seen anyway. |
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I got my UTG Second Gen STANAG Claw Mount yesterday.... nice piece of hardware.
However, a lot of fitting was required. Well, it seemed like a lot, mainly because I did it with needle files, by hand. I did a lot of research and ended up filing the feet, and the saddle. The saddle was the worst by far... It wasn't flat. When I started filing, the edges were the first thing to show metal, and the center was the last. It was kind of bowl shaped. It took about 2 hours of file and fit to finish. As long as I had my tools out, I went ahead and milled a little more metal from the inside of the stock. I can now put the push pin in by hand without a hammer. It would seem that these guns are kind of like puzzles, no two are exactly the same. |
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I asked earlier in the thread, but no one said anything about it, so I'll ask again.
Due to milling, File work, and the like, I am going to have to do some metal refinishing. None of it can be seen with the weapon put together and the optic mount in place. So, what should I use to do the touch ups?.... I don't think Krylon will be tough enough, and I don't want to re finish the whole reciever. Worse comes to worse, I could always cold blue, but I figure someone out there has the right answer. |
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I asked earlier in the thread, but no one said anything about it, so I'll ask again. Due to milling, File work, and the like, I am going to have to do some metal refinishing. None of it can be seen with the weapon put together and the optic mount in place. So, what should I use to do the touch ups?.... I don't think Krylon will be tough enough, and I don't want to re finish the whole reciever. Worse comes to worse, I could always cold blue, but I figure someone out there has the right answer. MKE's have a black painted finish. Go to WalMart and buy some black touch up paint in the automotive section. Costs about 5 bucks and come in a 1 oz or so bottle with a little brush. |
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Ok thanks... now pics...
I've explained alot of what I've done, now I'ma show ya. When I fitted the UTG mount, I had to file the feet of the mount, and the saddle on the reciever...BTW, the marks are from the UTG itself.... before I figured out how to operate the locking mechanism. /doh
 
It now takes about 12 to 15 lbs of force to lock the mount on... maybe a little more. I added the C-More Railway... 
Here is where I milled the back of the reciever and the grip, where they come together... and later I milled a little out of the stock itself, so that they match up well enough to put the retaining pin in by hand.... The last 1/4 inch requires a good bit of force... but I don't "HAVE" to have a hammer to put it in.  
As you can tell, I really didn't care that much what the inside of the A3 Stock looked like, I'll throw on a little paint, and it will be good to go. 
Next I added a small 2 inch rail to the Foregrip, on the right side, just like the one that was on the bottom. (This will be for a cheap "Pistol" version of a light/Laser Combo, to throw on if I use it for protection at the house at night. The pistol versions will serve adequately, and they are quick disconnect for ease of convenience.) Then I added the TAL-4 Foregrip on the bottom. 
I will be recieving the US made hammer, sear and trigger tomorrow according to the tracking info... I'll have those in tomorrow night, (Thanks you tube), and I'll start the milling of the mag-well Sunday... Cross your fingers for me... |
[ARCHIVED THREAD] - ATI AT94 A2 (Page 1 of 2)
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