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Posted: 5/31/2008 1:19:32 PM EDT
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There's always the ghetto/hardware store route. A small "eye" bolt, a couple of small washers and a nut. You can even use a "wing" or a knurled "thumb" nut to make it removable tool-free. Of course it won't look ATAS, and it won't be "genuine", but then it didn't cost you more than $3 either. One piece of advice, just take the stock in to the store with you. For some reason they frown on you walking around their hardware store with a carbine. |
That's pretty solid advice. LOL If I go with a single-point sling and mount it off of the stock sling pin, I'm wondering what the balance will be like with the A2 stock attached. |
VERY nose-heavy since the sling mount point is at the rear of the receiver. Pad your junk or prepare to cry when transitioning to a sidearm. |
YIKES... thanks again, very solid and helpful information! I'll be sure to let one of my buddies borrow it for a transition drill and not let them know about it. |
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Well, I made one tonight but it was a pain in the butt. Does the pin have to be hardened? I figured it does so I cut down a shoulder bolt from 5/16" to .273 (my stock pin dia) and rounded a nut then knurled it. Could not think of a fancy way to add a ring to the other end, so I welded a lock washer that I straightened out. I forgot to leave a shoulder on the lock washer side but will have to see if it's needed when I get home and try it out. The only problem I saw with using an eye bolt from the hardware store is that the threads will work as a "saw" on the frame and plastic I would imagine. Also not having a form fit in a stampe hole is begging for wallowing over time with all the guns weight on it. I might be all wet on those concerns, but at the least I would think the pin dia. to be important? I'll try to get some pics up tomorrow. I think it will work fine for personal use, but consider it only a tad better than the hardware method at this point. |
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Very nice work. I'd definitely spend money on something like that!
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Wow, pretty darn nice job! |
I machined it all from scratch. I took the dimensions off a standard pin and added the push button QD female portion. I looked at welding on a uncle miked female section to a threaded shank but the UM is too thin to work with so I machined the entire thing. I get to make lots of fun stuff in the shop when I don't have real work to do. ![]() I had to make a form tool for the lathe to cut the inside where the QD balls lock into but other than that it is pretty straight forward. I can make more but they would run about $50 each with the time and materials I have into it. |
Thanks Since you have access to a shop look into taking a local machine shop course (or bug the hell outta the machinist for help!). It will help out and open a door to all sorts of fun things. I love making gun, motorcycle and truck parts. |
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My best friend is the Machinist at work, but he works another shift. He showed me a few things and got me started with some good books, but it mostly boils down to taking your time, being a perfectionist and experience from what I can tell... None of those are my strong suit BTW. :) PS. Does that O-ring do the trick for keeping the threaded portion in place? I was going to use a ny-loc and cut it down and knurl it for this. |
| Idea I had in my head for awhile is to maybe someone can make it since I don't have the tools is to use the regular pins and buy the eye pins that is normally used which you can pic up used ones for not much from RTG and pit the eye piece in the pin and weld it. Then on the other end cut the end off and do female thread and make a male bolt to fit it. To me that be same as the ones for 45.00 that they are ripping us off on. I won't pay that robbery price. I would like someone who can make them make us a bunch. You can buy boht the eye piece and the pins new or used. I soon used since its got to be painted anyway after all said and done. |
The standard push pins are too short to thread plus the skills/equipment/material required to do the welding and threading would make them cost more than the 45 bucks per pin. Unless you can find a CNC shop to spit out a large number of threaded pins and the knurled nuts it will cost too much to do them on a manual lathe. Have you priced metal lately? Then there is the loops and welding. Or turn a pin with a large enough diameter that you could then mill down and drill for the one piece loop/pin. Yes there is some profit added in but no one is getting rich off a few adapter pins. |
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