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5/8/2006 8:00:41 AM EDT
I'm having problems with my FAL, and hopefully one of you can help me.

The thing won't extract. It cycles about 1", and then jams the spent brass back into the chamber. The result is a very stuck gun that requires the "pogo" technique to clear the brass. (Pogo = pulling back on charging handle while hitting the butt of the rifle on the ground at the same time.)

Here's what I've tried:

New gas piston (oversized)
New gas tube
New gas plug
Replaced all springs with new ones

The piston drops free all the way through, so I don't think it's binding. There aren't any burrs or high spots in the rails on the receiver (i.e., bolt carrier movement is not impeded). Friction between the bolt and magazine (or ammo in the mag) isn't a factor, because the gun does the same thing without a magazine in it. Also, I am sure that I have the gas regulator in the right spot, and the gas plug set to A and not Gr. I've also pulled the front sight post and made sure that the gas port wasn't gunked up.

The gun was a SA kit built on an Imbel GL receiver. The guy I had barrel it for me is a well known and reputable member here with many, many great FAL builds under his belt. I'm firing SA surplus. It does this (jams) with both the SA and Venezuelan CAVIM. If I shoot factory .308 Win (as opposed to 7.62 NATO, which is apparently not as powerful), the thing will cycle sometimes.

I apparently have a massive gas leak, but I can't think of anywhere else it'd be coming from. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
5/8/2006 10:36:34 AM EDT
[#1]
Couple things to try:

Check headspace..too tight?

21" barrel or shortened? If shortened, maybe the gas port needs to be opened up. To check if clogged, remove front sight and look down from the top.

Burr in the chamber? Possible polish, can't hurt anyway.

Bill
5/8/2006 10:42:01 AM EDT
[#2]
Headspace is on the looser side of spec.

Full 21" barrel.

Chamber seems to be fine, but I'll look at that one when I get home.

Thanks.


(Your screenname expresses perfectly how I feel right now.)
5/8/2006 11:20:36 AM EDT
[#3]
Something I noticed on my rifle:

Remove the recoil springs and let the plunger slide back and forth by itself.  Does it go from end to end with the plunger tube at a 45 degree angle?

I had to chuck mine up in a drill, wrap it in sandpaper and turn it down a bit.
5/8/2006 12:25:08 PM EDT
[#4]
I'll have to try that.

I just don't understand why a gun that, one would assume, worked before it was chopped won't work now.

Anyway, thanks.
5/8/2006 2:14:12 PM EDT
[#5]
Gee you've tried everything that i would try.  At this point i can only suggest you try falfiles.com and/or return it to the guy that  built it.

whatever you do please post the fix here.
5/8/2006 7:32:41 PM EDT
[#6]

Quoted:
I just don't understand why a gun that, one would assume, worked before it was chopped won't work now.


Your previous post claimed a 21" barrel which is unchopped standard length.  If the barrel is now shorter and you've not adjusted the gas regulator, this is quite easy to understand.  Keep turning the regulator sleeve to shut off the exit port.  If you close it all the way and you still have problems, the gas port may need to be bigger.

You may want to remeasure the barrel.  There are some rules of thumb for gas port diameters vs. barrel length.
5/8/2006 9:46:20 PM EDT
[#7]
After you have removed the recoil springs and given them a good cleaning. And after you have polished the inside of the recoil tube. Remove the gas regulator completely so that it is not on the gas block threads at all. Now, take a look at the area of the gas block that was covered by the gas regulator. You should see a small hole that runs perpendicular to the axis of the bore. Inside of that hole should be a steel pin. If that pin is missing, then you now know where your gas is going.

BTW, how did you determine that the gas regulator was in the right spot initially? And how did you determine that the gas port was no "gunked up."

If you discover that the gas tube pin is indeed missing, don't go ordering one until AFTER you have checked back in here. There is a simple way to coorect the problem that will not involve paying shipping charges.
5/9/2006 4:50:47 AM EDT
[#8]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I just don't understand why a gun that, one would assume, worked before it was chopped won't work now.


Your previous post claimed a 21" barrel which is unchopped standard length.  If the barrel is now shorter and you've not adjusted the gas regulator, this is quite easy to understand.  Keep turning the regulator sleeve to shut off the exit port.  If you close it all the way and you still have problems, the gas port may need to be bigger.

You may want to remeasure the barrel.  There are some rules of thumb for gas port diameters vs. barrel length.



I meant receiver chopped, not barrel chopped. Basically, it more likely than not worked before it was turned into a kit, why wouldn't it work after it was turned back into a rifle.


Quoted:
After you have removed the recoil springs and given them a good cleaning. And after you have polished the inside of the recoil tube. Remove the gas regulator completely so that it is not on the gas block threads at all. Now, take a look at the area of the gas block that was covered by the gas regulator. You should see a small hole that runs perpendicular to the axis of the bore. Inside of that hole should be a steel pin. If that pin is missing, then you now know where your gas is going.

BTW, how did you determine that the gas regulator was in the right spot initially? And how did you determine that the gas port was no "gunked up."

If you discover that the gas tube pin is indeed missing, don't go ordering one until AFTER you have checked back in here. There is a simple way to coorect the problem that will not involve paying shipping charges.



I turned the gas regulator so that it is covering up the gas bleed hole, thus making it so that all of the gas is going into the piston. Also, I am positive that the gas tube retainer pin is in place.

Does the simple way to correct the prob w/o shipping involve a short chunk of metal coat hanger?

Anyway, to ensure that the gas port wasn't gunked up I pulled the front sight post -- the gas port is located directly beneath it, and you can see it there. I cleaned the gun from the inside and out with q-tips, toothpicks and pipe cleaners as needed to get it nice and clean.

Thanks for the input guys. Unfortunately, I forgot to check the recoil spring tube last night. I'll do so tonight and report back here.
5/9/2006 7:56:19 AM EDT
[#9]
I had trouble with an FAL build where the gas tube was worn and would walk out of the front sight post even with the pin installed. I even had an oversized piston. I'd check the tube postion, possibly get a new one. Also check the piston, without the spring to see if it freely slides in/out of the tube OK.

Bill
5/9/2006 1:18:27 PM EDT
[#10]
my L1A1 has done that twice.  after the second time - stoppages were about 100 rnds apart - i took it apart and did a good hard cleaning on it, relubed the entire bolt/carrier w/ CLP, added a little grease on the receiver rails, too.

its a parts gun of course - i haven't had any other troubles.....yet.  

i hope yours is something simple.  there are some good FAL-smiths out there, so best of luck!  
5/15/2006 4:28:30 AM EDT
[#11]
Okay. So an update.

I tried everything that everyone here suggested, and to save myself some typing, they didn't work. The next thing I'm going to try is Loctiteing the gas tube in to seal it up -- if that works, then I know where my gasleak is, and I'll just solder the tube on permenantly.

If anyone thinks up some more good ideas, please let me know.

mr0w1
5/15/2006 5:01:17 AM EDT
[#12]
tag to hear what the fix is
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