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Posted: 12/21/2005 10:43:44 AM EDT
This has been bothering me for a while. Since I'm replacing springs and minor parts, I want to fix everything.

I have to slam my upper close to get my frame locking lever to go forward and it still doesn't go all the way forward. It's about 1/8th" off. I think it may be the frame lock. Anybody else experience this problem? How can I fix it?

I also have this problem when I try to put my other upper on the fixed lower and the problem is worst.
My para lower mate to both uppers with no problems.

This is a minor problem that I can live with, like I have. If it can be fixed, then I want to fix it.

I can post pics if needed.
Link Posted: 12/21/2005 11:14:28 AM EDT
are they coonan uppers?
there were some reports (i had one of my 3 this way: ) of the rear of the receiver needing to be opened up a bit (side-to-side) to allow the lower to lock up properly.
having your locking lever a bit to the rear of the recoil plate is fine if it locks up well, but you shouldn't have to slam it closed too hard either.

if it is coonan, GO HERE, if not that may still be a useful thread.
Link Posted: 12/21/2005 11:46:06 AM EDT
Thanks for the link. I only slam it a little to get the locking lever as close as possible. It locks up very well. I will try filing the frame lock and see what happens.
Link Posted: 12/21/2005 4:28:31 PM EDT
Does it open up when you don't want it to? Shooting low?
If no to both then don't let it bother you.
Link Posted: 12/21/2005 4:57:15 PM EDT
No. There are was no other problems besides the locking lever being a little off and I fixed that by filing the frame lock.

Link Posted: 12/21/2005 6:40:17 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Shawnr1:
No. There are was no other problems besides the locking lever being a little off and I fixed that by filing the frame lock.




In case you did'nt already know, The locking lever is NOT supposed to contact the lower recoil plate. It should stand off about 1/8" or alittle more.
Link Posted: 12/21/2005 7:12:15 PM EDT

Originally Posted By CGWco:

Originally Posted By Shawnr1:
No. There are was no other problems besides the locking lever being a little off and I fixed that by filing the frame lock.




In case you did'nt already know, The locking lever is NOT supposed to contact the lower recoil plate. It should stand off about 1/8" or alittle more.



No, I did not know that. Before I filed the lock lever, it was 1/8" off. It still has some play in it. The lock lever on my para lower is all the way forward/flush and touching the recoil plate. Could you explain why the lever is not supposed to touch the recoil plate? Does it cause any abnormal wear or tear? Details please?
Link Posted: 12/21/2005 8:42:31 PM EDT
Well, you better order a new frame lock now. Because when they wear out they rest against the recoil plate, causing play in the receivers.
Link Posted: 12/21/2005 9:42:29 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Shawnr1:

Originally Posted By CGWco:

Originally Posted By Shawnr1:
No. There are was no other problems besides the locking lever being a little off and I fixed that by filing the frame lock.




In case you did'nt already know, The locking lever is NOT supposed to contact the lower recoil plate. It should stand off about 1/8" or alittle more.



No, I did not know that. Before I filed the lock lever, it was 1/8" off. It still has some play in it. The lock lever on my para lower is all the way forward/flush and touching the recoil plate. Could you explain why the lever is not supposed to touch the recoil plate? Does it cause any abnormal wear or tear? Details please?



Well, the latching piston in your lower, is attached to the outer lever. if the lever hits the recoil plate, the forward motion of the latching piston is impeaded and will not fully enguage the lug on your upper receiver. While it may seem tight now, it is only a matter of time before you start to notice play between your upper and lower receivers at the latching point.
Link Posted: 12/22/2005 2:00:05 AM EDT

Originally Posted By CGWco:

Originally Posted By Shawnr1:

Originally Posted By CGWco:

Originally Posted By Shawnr1:
No. There are was no other problems besides the locking lever being a little off and I fixed that by filing the frame lock.




In case you did'nt already know, The locking lever is NOT supposed to contact the lower recoil plate. It should stand off about 1/8" or alittle more.



No, I did not know that. Before I filed the lock lever, it was 1/8" off. It still has some play in it. The lock lever on my para lower is all the way forward/flush and touching the recoil plate. Could you explain why the lever is not supposed to touch the recoil plate? Does it cause any abnormal wear or tear? Details please?



Well, the latching piston in your lower, is attached to the outer lever. if the lever hits the recoil plate, the forward motion of the latching piston is impeaded and will not fully enguage the lug on your upper receiver. While it may seem tight now, it is only a matter of time before you start to notice play between your upper and lower receivers at the latching point.



Thanks for the reply. I understand now and it makes more sense why the latch need to stand off. It will be an easy fix to R2 the frame lock on the standard lower. How hard is it to remove the para pivot block screw from the receiver? If special tools are needed for this, could you please email or IM me a quote.
Link Posted: 12/22/2005 6:22:14 AM EDT
Depending on the make of your para there may be a small screw going into the end of the large screw that secures the folder block to the receiver. The small screw is accessed from the front of the recoil plate. Remove the small screw first. You will need a very large screwdriver for the large screw removal. Some have used the end of a file and turned the file with a wrench.
If that CGWco is who I think it is he may have better advice for you.
Is that you Rich?
Link Posted: 12/22/2005 9:00:56 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/22/2005 9:09:37 AM EDT by CGWco]
The best tool for para bolt removal, is a standard buttstock removal tool. The guide rod portion can be removed ( unthreaded ) for use on the para stock bolt and the pistol grip nut... Order it from DSA ( $15 )

If you have a Rhodie/Sarco Hummper Special, you will have to make your own toll to fit the reccess pocket. And if the bolt has a screw in the front, loosen it but do not remove it completely.

Clamp the lower in a vise to hold it tight .


ps. 1811GNR ;
Howdy !
Link Posted: 12/22/2005 2:35:05 PM EDT

Originally Posted By CGWco:
The best tool for para bolt removal, is a standard buttstock removal tool. The guide rod portion can be removed ( unthreaded ) for use on the para stock bolt and the pistol grip nut... Order it from DSA ( $15 )

If you have a Rhodie/Sarco Hummper Special, you will have to make your own toll to fit the reccess pocket. And if the bolt has a screw in the front, loosen it but do not remove it completely.

Clamp the lower in a vise to hold it tight .


ps. 1811GNR ;
Howdy !



I have one of those tools. I did not know the guide rod could be removed. Thanks for sharing the knowledge.

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