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Posted: 10/10/2005 10:33:59 PM EDT
| Ok since I now own a FAL where should I start out on the gas Regulator setting. It came from the factory set at 4. I have not had time yet to fire it. Owned it for about three weeks now. Where should this regulator be set at. |
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Start with the port all the way open, turn it up until it runs, and then turn it up another two clicks. Some ammo is hotter than others, and it depends on how worn your FAL is, how clean it is, etc. If it's set at four you could try it there, open the port until it stops running and then close the port two clicks. |
Thanks for the help. I have two AR-15's and several other rifles but I am new to the FAL. |
You're welcome - and welcome to the club... I have a Bushmaster that's pretty nice, but since getting into FALs, I hardly ever shoot an AR-15 anymore... IMO, the FAL is the finest MBR ever made... - georgestrings |
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Just to make sure we're on the same page: Take a look at the top of the gas block, directly behind the front sight post - you'll see a vent hole that the gas regulator is partially covering - the more of the hole you're exposing, the less gas you're using to cycle the action, and the more you're venting off... In other words, to add gas, you increase the amount the vent hole is covered... - georgestrings |
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hey folks. thanks for posting this question and for the info provided. i just shot my L1A1- i'm trying to educate myself on it. using the previously posted info, i set the gas regulator on 9 and fired. cycled fine using milsurp 7.62. i moved it to 11 and it cycled fine as well. so i moved up to 9 and left it there. does that sound okay? does that indicate a decent gas system, piston fit, whatever? |
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Machaira, Every rifle will be different. For example I have a Century Inch gun that is set at 5 right now. I've run Aussie surp and I think even some of the cheap Indian stuff, and didn't have to change the gas setting. Did you try turning the regulator down?? As I understand it if it's up high, you could theoretically wear out the gas system faster. Now, having said that, this means you may get more parts wear after your first several thousand rounds or so. For most recreational shooters, I doubt it will be a problem ever. I guess the whole of what I'm saying is: If you like it at 9, leave it there. If you want to experiment next time you're at the range, do so. |
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You will do yourself a favor by disregarding those silly numbers. They cause more consternation with new F A L owners than they are worth. Adjusting the gas is a little more involved than just getting the rifle to function properly. At a minimm, the gas should be set so that reliable function is achieved. I always start with the gas fully closed and work my way back. The advantages to this procedure are as follows. 1. if the gas is closed and the brass is ejected, you know that the gas system is working. Knowing this immediately will save a lot of ammo in the event that the gas system is in need of repair. 2. When the gas system is not getting enough gas, the brass will not be ejected fully and the now expanded brass gets jammed into the chamber. This requires the shooter to have to spend time pulling on the charging handle while whamming the buttstock on a hard surface to get the brass to extract. This gets old in a hurry. If you start with the gas regulator closed, you will only have to wham the buttstock once or twice at most. Once the gas is set for reliable function, shoot the rifle for groups. Then close the gas a click and try again. Repeat and see what happens. You will find that doing so will have an affect on the group sizes. ( Assuming that the barrel isn't worn out or you have a gooned up muzzle crown). I have had F A Ls that produced better groups with a bit more gas than needed for reliable function. |
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For even more fun, find a range with no rules  Now rest the front handguard on your left hand, but don't hold it. Just let is rest there. Now pull the trigger with only your thumb applying back pressure and only the trigger finger and thumb holding the rifle. This is best done standing, and pointing in the direction of a large dirt bank. By firing the rifle with no resistance you will find the proper gas setting. Once it reliably feeds 5 or so rounds, leave it on that gas setting. Most likely it will be the same exact setting you got by using the one round in the magazine and then closed two more clicks. That's called the Fort Benning method  |
Took the Century FAL out today. Started out with gas regulator set to 3. It was flipping the brass about 20 ft. Finally decided on 5. Brass ends up about 10 ft from gun. The gun functioned perfect thru about 50 rounds and seemed accurate enough. I have mounted a DSA scope mount on it and a 3 X 9 scope. I couldn't really say how tight it will group since the damn wind was blowing about 35 mph when I sighted it in. However I was very pleased with the way it functioned. Light recoil and nice trigger pull. 
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I just got another kit from DSA (StG) and was looking it over (really nice condition) but I saw that the gas regulator looked to be a lot further back (ie. closer to the receiver) than my other fully built StG (on an Imbel). It was on a setting of 3 originally so I started turning it down, but I ended up turning it all the way back to a 3 again. So my question is: if the regulator can be turned around by a full rotation (and then some) where should it originally start? Thanks, JZ |
It is usually 7. A large portion of the gas hole should be visible at 7. Lots of gas will escape through that hole and not enough should be left over to operate the gas piston. As you click the gas regulator clockwwise to smaller numbers, the opening will be smaller and more gas will stay inside the rifle to operate the piston, until finally the regulator is flush with the front sight base and will turn (tighten) no more. I think, but am not positive, that some regulator dials have the numbers in reverse order. 
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I too am new to the world of the FAL. Just bought a STG58 from a local dealer... Went to the local range and had nothing but feed failures and bolt lock ups Tried Black Hills, Winchester, PMC Gas Regulator is all the way against the front sight.Talked with DSA, not a lot of help, recommended I use military surplus  ranges don't like FMJ. So...I take the whole rifle down last night to re-lube everything, even the recoil spring... take the hand-guards off and what do I find...the gas tube is loose!!! I hope tightening the tube will help as it will be next weekend before another attempt is made. Anyone else have this experience? |
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"So...I take the whole rifle down last night to re-lube everything, even the recoil spring... take the hand-guards off and what do I find...the gas tube is loose!!! I hope tightening the tube will help as it will be next weekend before another attempt is made." Unless silver soldered in, the gas tube typically IS a bit "loose" in the gas block - but it's supposed to be prevented from turning by a pin - DO NOT try to tighten the gas tube without 1st drifting out the retaining pin... If there's no pin in there, that's most likely your problem... Did you buy it new??? I agree with DSA - milsurp is best out of FALs, but it should still be able to cycle reliably with commercial .308... I'd also have the headspace checked, just to be sure... - georgestrings |
Yes....I did buy it new  Cheaper than Dirt in Ft. Worth....the gas tube was able to be tightened by hand into the front assembly, while I saw two holes in the tube, about 1/3 the length of the tube, I did not see a pin. Check headspace..hmmm need to find someone who can do that... |
First unscrew the gas regulator (It's the dial with the numbers). The pin hole is underneath it. Now, hand tighten the gas tube, then back off until those first two holes you saw are at 4 and 8 O-clock. The front of the gas tube has a flat spot near the front of the threads, it should be at 6 O-clock. Now look forward where the gas regulator was and on the bottom of the outside threads there will be a small hole where the pin goes. The flat spot on the threads should be lined up with the hole. Put a pin in. Then screw the gas regulator back on. That's it. |
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"the gas tube was able to be tightened by hand into the front assembly, while I saw two holes in the tube, about 1/3 the length of the tube, I did not see a pin." OK, now I see a problem - if you could tighten the tube without removing the pin, your rifle most likely won't run without the gas tube retaining pin in there.... You're supposed to tighten the tube 'til it stops, then back it off so that you can insert the pin - it's generally got a little "wiggle" in it, but the pin should stop it from backing out(or tightening) any further... You can make another pin from a coathanger - just make it short enough so that it doesn't cause the regulator to bind - neverseize everything, then put it back together the way it should've been in the 1st place... More than likely, you'll be good to go, unless the tube IS messed up... - georgestrings |
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Looks like Robert beat me by a couple of minutes - one thing just struck me, though: I thought STG-58s usually had short tubes that were silver soldered in???.... Also, it doesn't really matter which way the vent holes line up(up or down) - but I usually face 'em down, figuring it lessens the chances of crap getting in there... Gotta get a pin in there, unless the tube's messed up - then you'll need both... Just out of curiosity, does your receiver say DSA on it??? - georgestrings |
Thanks georgestrings and Robert2011, I removed the gas regulator knob and exposed the front assembly and simply unscrewed the gas tube. There is no pin  The front end of the tube has two slots and the flat surface. Are you sure just using a hangar wire The pin looks to be about 1/16" or less.The receiver indicates an DSA SG58.... SilentRun |
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Even if the pin is loose it will still work because the regulator dial holds it in place. One of my DSA rifles came that way and it's been no problem. I don't see any problem with a piece of coat hanger, other than being able to cut such a small piece off. Just make sure it is not too long or it could bind up on the regulator dial. A little too short should not be a problem. |
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SilentRun - You're welcome, bud - I'm only glad to help... Although you can locate an actual retaining pin, I've seen one cut from a coathanger work just fine - you'll probably have to cut it with a pair of diagonal pliers, then file down any raised ends so it'll fit in there... As Robert said, a little short won't hurt, but a little long will keep you from being able to thread the regulator back on... Either flat will work with the pin, but like Robert, I prefer the vent holes to face downward... I've gotta say I'm surprised that DSA would miss such a basic item(an FAL will not cycle without one of those pins, usually) - makes you wonder if they test fired it... I think after getting that straightened out, you'll be probably be all set... You can roughly test your headspace by removing your extractor, making sure the bolt and chamber are clean and dry, then putting a layer of masking tape(approximately .004") across the primer area of an unfired round - the bolt shouldn't close that way, but should close without difficulty without the tape... It's better to use actual headspace guages, but that method will give you a rough idea of if the headspace is in the ballpark.... Good luck, and I hope you get it straightened out - FALs aren't all that difficult to fix, and once properly set up, are a great rifle - probably my favorite... - georgestrings |
| After reading this thread are you guys saying it is better to run a little to much gas and make sure the FAL cycles correctly. Or am I getting a wrong read on this thread. If this is the case I am going to set mine at 4 on my FAL and flip those brass a few more feet. |
DAMMIT! Stop looking at where it throws the brass! 1. Insert ONE round into mag. Close gas system FULLY. Fire. With a fully closed gas port, the weapon should strongly eject cartridge and lock open on the empty mag. If it does not - determine failue of gas system or magazine. 2. Insert ONE round into mag. Open gas system FULLY. Fire. With a fully open gas port, there should not be enough gas cycling the weapon to eject the round and lock the bolt back on the empty mag. If it does eject and locks back - something is wrong with your gas system. 3. Continue this process, closing the gas port by two clicks at a time. Insert one round in mag. Fire. Do the above until it locks back on an empty mag. STOP. 4. Turn gas two clicks farther (lower number) Leave it there.... and only re-adjust if you are going to change types of ammo drastically.... or if function degrades. |
My century FAL was missing the pin, and the gas piston tube was allowed to rotate - effectively shutting off all vented gas. My system would violently cycle/eject/lock back, no matter where I set the gas setting. I used a piece of coat hanger cut to fit as the replacement pin, and it has worked perfectly for years. |
FYI...DSA called today and asked that I send the rifle back for warranty repair!!! That's Just what I am going to do. Thanks for all the help.
It works on 4 or 5. It stays there on MY rifle. Adjust yours however you like. On FAL Files somebody posted, a internet expert no doubt , brass should eject around 8 to 10 ft from rifle. If my rifle cycles to hell with numbers. Punching paper isnt hardly a life or death situation. |
I'd put a pin in, then shoot it - and if it ran and shot well after that, I'd keep it... If it's a dog, THEN send it back.... Who knows - you *could* be returning a real shooter, just because some fool left a pin out.... - georgestrings |
It's kinda funny. You buy a rifle. It came set on 4. You post a thread asking how the regulator should be set. Then you argue with *real* experience and understanding on the system.... and basically ignore the facts... and will leave your setting on what works based on your own testing. (rifle goes bang)  Have fun.... great that your rifle works. The REASON you only set it two clicks above realiable function and NO MORE.... is that any more gas slams your bolt into the back of the receiver, causing much more felt recoil to the shooter, slower followup shots, and potentially shortening the life of your weapon. But hey... if you want to look at brass piles, and dont care about how the regulator *should* be set....... why did you even post this thread? |
After this crap I am sorry I even bothered posting the thread here. Have fun. |
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