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Posted: 6/27/2004 7:22:24 PM EDT
My new DSA (the one fixed by them after my first KA-BOOM www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=7&t=174142) is showing signs of leaking gas just below the gas regulator dial. Is this normal? Or at least acceptible? Easy to fix?
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They vary on leakage. If it bothers you, try this... Field strip firearm----- Disassemble gas system and remove gas adj---- Clean area around gas block/BBL with spray carb cleaner (be sure it leaves no residue). Clean a few times with cleaner and blast with highpressure air. Let dry--- Apply Green Loctite to gas block/BBL joint. Let dry---- Reassemble firearm... |
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Sometimes it stops or lessens with use (the carbon builds up). If the gun is not sluggish or adj closed all the way it's no biggie. Green loctite is ment to fill voids on assemblies like this and works really good. www.globalstoresgroup.com/page/industrial-supplies/ctgy/loctite-retaining-compounds www.globalstoresgroup.com/page/industrial-supplies/CTGY/loctite-threadlocking See #290 or #294 |
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Ahhhhhh major brain fart...! I'm looking at your pic of leakage around cylinder and in my mind's eye I'm seeing leakage around gas block. DOH...! Is gas leaking from the cyl/gas block joint? (this is silver soldered and leakage would indicate a void or a crack in solder when cyl was aligned with receiver) This is the short cylinder? (I am guessing) Is DSA even using the standard long cylinder? If so it's just blow-by through the threads. Post pic of gas block to the receiver. |
Thanks for the info. ! |
No biggie then. It's just blow-by through the threads. It can be stopped as per what I told you about BBL/gas block leaks. Just unscrew adjuster-----degrease----and apply a few drops of Green Loctite---let dry Notes on this grade of Loctite----- To disassemble after it has cured requires approx 400 degrees heating----IE propane torch. Do not apply to assembled parts---It will glue them together REALLY well---IE if some drips down on to piston/cylinder area. |
You betcha! You can see some around the gas plug also. |
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IMHO.... Use brake parts cleaner to clean parts, not carb cleaner. Carb cleaner leaves residue when dry, brake parts cleaner does not. The reason this really doesn't matter is because by the time the gas gets to the point in the gas tube where it can leak out, it has already met up with the piston head and pushed it back. I don't like the long tubes. If you guys really want to stop this take the long tubes out and cut them down to the length of a short tube with a tubing cutter. Then silver solder the shorter cut down tube into the gas block. I actually learned to do this from DSA. If you don't want to solder it, the easy route would be to go to a local hardware store and buy some pipe dope, a material used by plumbers to seal pipe thread. Clean up your threads, put on the pipe dope and call it a day. Otherwise, forget about it, it's doing what it needs to. Steyr also soldered the short tubes into the gas blocks on later rifles for easier cleaning. DO NOT loctite those threads into the gas block. First of all, loctite is not a sealant and will not stop gas from moving through the threads and second, next time you want to clean out your rifle, you will really regret it. |
If it runs fine on 4 don't worry about it. All full tube FAL's do this. |
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