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Posted: 9/5/2015 11:42:43 AM EDT
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I got Springfield receiver with matched SA barrel.
But bolt is Winchester ! So silly question - after I'll replace bolt with SA one - should I go to "competent gunsmith" and pay hefty fee, or just install by myself and go happy shooting ? thanks 
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Here's what to do:
Get a set of .30-06 headspace gauges. You can buy them from Brownells. You should also buy a Garand bolt disassembly tool from Brownells. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/bolt-tools/dissassembly-tools/m1-m14-bolt-disassembly-tool-prod917.aspx http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/measuring-tools/headspace-gauges/field-headspace-gauges-prod27542.aspx http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/measuring-tools/headspace-gauges/30-06-headspace-gauge-kit-sku184000040-26876-52455.aspx You can research the correct bolt drawing number for your rifle and search online for the correct Springfield bolt. You should be able to find one easily. Place the stripped bolt in your receiver and make sure that the chamber is clean and dry. Then see if your new bolt will close on a "GO" gauge. Then check to see if your bolt will close on a "FIELD" gauge. If it will not close on a field gauge then everything is good. Just for fun, you can also check to see if the bolt will close on a "NO GO" gauge. If the bolt will close on a NO GO gauge, then you have some wear, but the gun is safe to shoot as long as the bolt does not close on a FIELD gauge. Once you have checked your new bolt, you should assemble it using the Brownells bolt assembly tool. Alternatively, just send your new bolt and rifle to Tim Shufflin at Shuff's Parkerizing and he can check it for you. Tim is a good guy and he will make sure that your new bolt is safe to use. You cannot just drop a bolt in without properly checking it. If you have an excessive headspace condition, you can damage the rifle and yourself |
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Garand bolts "may" have been almost interchangeable when they were still in service, BUT....Ordnance still checked re-barrel or replacement bolts for head space.
In any case, you're dealing with rifles as much as 70 years old that have been through who knows how many foreign and American hands, and who knows how many rounds have been through and what someone may have done to them. Rifle actions and bolts do wear over time. Having the head space checked is a small amount of expense compared to purchasing a new eyeball. |
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Usually a good condition bolt will headspace.... I say usually . You should still check it with at least a Field Gage .
You can get away with just buying a Field Gage , use a factory loaded round as a go gage. If the stripped replacement bolt will freely close on a loaded factory round and passes a Field Gage you will be OK. Field Gage is around $25 which is alot cheaper than what most Gun Butchers will charge for a headspace check.... |
| The Garand bolt is simple to dissasemble, no fancy tools are needed. Just your fingers and a punch. You are wanting to change the bolt but how about the rest of the rifle. If it is not the correct SA parts there is really no sense in going to the trouble and expense of swapping the bolt JMO |
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CMP uses the NO-GO gauge for their rifles to ensure maximum longevity of the rifle. Rifle is safe to fire up to the time the bolt closes on the FIELD gauge. See this CMP article.
There is a misunderstanding about headspace. Cartridges do not have headspace specifications. Weapons have headspace specifications and they're different for self loading, full automatic, and bolt guns. I do not have the M1 Rifle specs handy but the commercial (AKA Brownells) gauges for ".308 Winchester/7.62mm NATO" are universally undersized by approximately one size. The M14/M1A rifle GO standard is the same as the commercial NO-GO. The rifle needs to be a little "loose" to function. Likewise if the M14 closes on the commercial FIELD gauge it' still fine as the M14 spec is looser. Remember NO-GO is the standard for new weapons purely for long use. This makes any dramatic concern about safety specious. Not using the right gauges doesn't help. If you're not shooting M2 Ball made under government contract the argument is even more specious. The danger area is not too loose but too tight where a too long case wedges in the leade of the chamber and causes massive over pressure because the case is swedged around the bullet. But even this is rare other with negligent reloads. General Hatcher incrementally increased the headspace of rifles during tests before WW2 and never blew up a rifle. Accuracy got bad but there were no safety concerns. Note the CMP article is full of weasel words like "may" rather than "will." If this rifle came from CMP it's been checked. If you have any concerns get the "proper" bolt for when the rifle is hanging on the wall and retain the other bolt for shooting. Stay away from commercial ".30-06" ammo unless it meets M2 Ball specs. -- Chuck |
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Quoted:
You guys got all good points
But good points in both opposite directions 
So now I got good dilemma : keep good but not matching Winchester bolt or replace with SA one but for extra fees and troubles ??? SA or WRA, that's the question  Personally I would leave it as is. If you decide you wat a bolt I have SA complete unissued 65 series bolts |
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You want to swap it out so you have all matching parts, however, the CMP used a bolt that gives proper headspace in your receiver. It just happens to be a different brand.
It hurts nothing to have mismatched parts and it's common on issue firearms. I would leave it alone. |
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Quoted:
Usually a good condition bolt will headspace.... I say usually . You should still check it with at least a Field Gage . You can get away with just buying a Field Gage , use a factory loaded round as a go gage. If the stripped replacement bolt will freely close on a loaded factory round and passes a Field Gage you will be OK. Field Gage is around $25 which is alot cheaper than what most Gun Butchers will charge for a headspace check.... A "Go Gage" and two layers of scotch tape on it's head will net a "No GO Gage". Measure with your calipers to be sure. The Go Gage is minimum headspace, + .004" is No Go. Closing on a Field gage represents the end of the line and the rifle needs a new barrel or a new bolt. Most calibers use SAAMI minimum + .010" for a Field reject gage. I don't want any of my rifles anywhere close to closing on a Field gage. I want to know when it closes on a No Go gage so I can start saving my money for a new barrel. |
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Quoted:
A "Go Gage" and two layers of scotch tape on it's head will net a "No GO Gage". Measure with your calipers to be sure. The Go Gage is minimum headspace, + .004" is No Go. Closing on a Field gage represents the end of the line and the rifle needs a new barrel or a new bolt. Most calibers use SAAMI minimum + .010" for a Field reject gage. I don't want any of my rifles anywhere close to closing on a Field gage. I want to know when it closes on a No Go gage so I can start saving my money for a new barrel. Quoted:
Quoted:
Usually a good condition bolt will headspace.... I say usually . You should still check it with at least a Field Gage . You can get away with just buying a Field Gage , use a factory loaded round as a go gage. If the stripped replacement bolt will freely close on a loaded factory round and passes a Field Gage you will be OK. Field Gage is around $25 which is alot cheaper than what most Gun Butchers will charge for a headspace check.... A "Go Gage" and two layers of scotch tape on it's head will net a "No GO Gage". Measure with your calipers to be sure. The Go Gage is minimum headspace, + .004" is No Go. Closing on a Field gage represents the end of the line and the rifle needs a new barrel or a new bolt. Most calibers use SAAMI minimum + .010" for a Field reject gage. I don't want any of my rifles anywhere close to closing on a Field gage. I want to know when it closes on a No Go gage so I can start saving my money for a new barrel. Absolutly nothing wrong with a bolt that closes on the No-Go. The Field Gauge is the tell all gauge |
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