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Posted: 3/21/2015 11:07:35 AM EDT
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I bought a M1 stock from the CMP and after reassembly I cannot get the trigger housing to lock back into position. It stops about 3/4" from being able to lock in. Any suggestions as to what may be causing this?
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It is supposed to be super tight. The tighter the better. I have a few that I have to use a rubber mallet to seat. This. Do not do any trimming. The more you shoot it, the more it will settle in. The wood will compress some and everything will seat together better. There really is no reason to take the stock off for most cleaning on a Garand. Just lock the bolt back, clean the barrel and make sure you have a little grease in the op-rod channel. |
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STOP, do not remove any wood.
Run the rear sight aperture all the way down Flip rifle over on padded table or on carpeted floor Grease the lugs on the trigger guard Insert the trigger group Man up and lean HARD on trigger guard You can also close it like the did at Springfield Armory, use a rubber mallet 
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It will loosen up in time as wood compresses. Most people dont knoiw what a properly fitting stock is like as the are used to old worn out USGI wood.A tight titting stock should help with groups if your other was a loose fit
There may be some internal mods you may need to do, sometimes the op rod will drag. Someone will come alone and tell you to do the tilt test. Go to the range and if the rifle functions fine you do not need to do the test. The tilt test is used for diagnostics when having short stroke issues. A rifle that fails the tilt test can function fine |
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It will loosen up in time as wood compresses. Most people dont knoiw what a properly fitting stock is like as the are used to old worn out USGI wood.A tight titting stock should help with groups if your other was a loose fit There may be some internal mods you may need to do, sometimes the op rod will drag. Someone will come alone and tell you to do the tilt test. Go to the range and if the rifle functions fine you do not need to do the test. The tilt test is used for diagnostics when having short stroke issues. A rifle that fails the tilt test can function fine Thanks for the advice. I actually snapped it in place using a 2x2 piece of lumber...Seems to function fine |
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Always make sure there's a little grease on those lugs, or in the receiver legs where they lock in. Wear is wear. A little lube decreases the wear of locking/unlocking.
When I was in the Army we didn't store them with the trigger guard unlocked. Handed them through the window to the armorer, he put them in the rack and handed our card back to us. My M1A has been stored, standing and lying down for over 30 years with the trigger guard locked. First 25 years or so in its original wood stock. Maybe someday, one of the M1's will loosen up, but so far they haven't. None of mine are "match" guns and I tear them down after shooting to get them clean, inspect the parts and lube them up again. Maybe I've been doing it all wrong since 1976, but mine still work. |
I got a Service Grade Special with new wood and have to use a rubber mallet to lock the trigger guard down. Was reluctant to do that until I saw the picture that M1G posted above and that made me feel better. In fact I was going to mention that pic, but had no link for it, so glad M1G has it 
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STOP, do not remove any wood. Run the rear sight aperture all the way down Flip rifle over on padded table or on carpeted floor Grease the lugs on the trigger guard Insert the trigger group Man up and lean HARD on trigger guard You can also close it like the did at Springfield Armory, use a rubber mallet <a href="http://s47.photobucket.com/user/Garandlover/media/misc/tightlockup.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f197/Garandlover/misc/tightlockup.jpg</a> I wonder what that mallet weighs... |
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Ok did as suggested got it to lock in....Thanks! I will need a crow bar to get it off.! No. Buy one of these... trigger breaker Best nifty Lil tool I've gotten for my garands. |
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Ok did as suggested got it to lock in....Thanks! I will need a crow bar to get it off.! No. Buy one of these... trigger breaker Best nifty Lil tool I've gotten for my garands. Or a piece of rope you have laying around, looped through the guard will work and cost you nothing |
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I found the following article on the CMP site. Picture 1 showing where the trigger guard lies is just like it was on my rifle before I locked it in place. This guy is suggesting that the stock be modified if it was that far up.
http://thecmp.org/wp-content/uploads/TightTriggerGroupArticle20121.pdf What do you all think? |
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I've seen it recommended that the tip of the trigger guard be near the lower tip of the trigger before the tension draws up hard.
You will get wood compression, it's the nature of the material and a slight achille's heel of the design. For infantry field serviceability and simplicity the design is a gem and is more than adequate, especially when backed by armorers and a huge supply train of spare parts. Hell it's likely even with very loose clamping pressure the accuracy would meet the generous army standards. I think a lot of the issue with most is that these are 60-70 year old rifles with vintage stocks most likely stored in crates in a sweltering army tin warehouse. Over time they were slow cooked and shrunk. That's just my opinion as a wood working hobbiest. |
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Or a piece of rope you have laying around, looped through the guard will work and cost you nothing Quoted:
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Ok did as suggested got it to lock in....Thanks! I will need a crow bar to get it off.! No. Buy one of these... trigger breaker Best nifty Lil tool I've gotten for my garands. Or a piece of rope you have laying around, looped through the guard will work and cost you nothing I used to do it that way. It sucks. A crescent wrench and pliers work too, but I prefer sockets 
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I found the following article on the CMP site. Picture 1 showing where the trigger guard lies is just like it was on my rifle before I locked it in place. This guy is suggesting that the stock be modified if it was that far up. http://thecmp.org/wp-content/uploads/TightTriggerGroupArticle20121.pdf What do you all think? Leave it alone, I have bought 4 of these stocks and they all fit that way. If you do a search on the CMP forums you will see its a common fit. When Garands come from CMP with new wood installed that is where many guards stop. In time the wood will compress and get easier to close. If you remove wood now when the wood compresses lock up may get to loose over time. You are worrying about nothing |
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Leave it alone, I have bought 4 of these stocks and they all fit that way. If you do a search on the CMP forums you will see its a common fit. When Garands come from CMP with new wood installed that is where many guards stop. In time the wood will compress and get easier to close. If you remove wood now when the wood compresses lock up may get to loose over time. You are worrying about nothing Quoted:
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I found the following article on the CMP site. Picture 1 showing where the trigger guard lies is just like it was on my rifle before I locked it in place. This guy is suggesting that the stock be modified if it was that far up. http://thecmp.org/wp-content/uploads/TightTriggerGroupArticle20121.pdf What do you all think? Leave it alone, I have bought 4 of these stocks and they all fit that way. If you do a search on the CMP forums you will see its a common fit. When Garands come from CMP with new wood installed that is where many guards stop. In time the wood will compress and get easier to close. If you remove wood now when the wood compresses lock up may get to loose over time. You are worrying about nothing Listen to this man. He's right. I had this problem and M1G advised me to leave the wood alone. He was right. A few well directed whacks with a rubber mallet got the trigger group to lock. But make sure to direct your whacks backward. A few months later the wood has indeed compressed. Here's what it looked like when I was having trouble getting the trigger guard to lock 
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Listen to this man. He's right. I had this problem and M1G advised me to leave the wood alone. He was right. A few well directed whacks with a rubber mallet got the trigger group to lock. But make sure to direct your whacks backward. A few months later the wood has indeed compressed. Here's what it looked like when I was having trouble getting the trigger guard to lock <a href="http://s641.photobucket.com/user/Fluffy9lives/media/20140611_191335_zpsa47e8009.jpeg.html" target="_blank">http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu138/Fluffy9lives/20140611_191335_zpsa47e8009.jpeg</a> Quoted:
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I found the following article on the CMP site. Picture 1 showing where the trigger guard lies is just like it was on my rifle before I locked it in place. This guy is suggesting that the stock be modified if it was that far up. http://thecmp.org/wp-content/uploads/TightTriggerGroupArticle20121.pdf What do you all think? Leave it alone, I have bought 4 of these stocks and they all fit that way. If you do a search on the CMP forums you will see its a common fit. When Garands come from CMP with new wood installed that is where many guards stop. In time the wood will compress and get easier to close. If you remove wood now when the wood compresses lock up may get to loose over time. You are worrying about nothing Listen to this man. He's right. I had this problem and M1G advised me to leave the wood alone. He was right. A few well directed whacks with a rubber mallet got the trigger group to lock. But make sure to direct your whacks backward. A few months later the wood has indeed compressed. Here's what it looked like when I was having trouble getting the trigger guard to lock <a href="http://s641.photobucket.com/user/Fluffy9lives/media/20140611_191335_zpsa47e8009.jpeg.html" target="_blank">http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu138/Fluffy9lives/20140611_191335_zpsa47e8009.jpeg</a> Mine was not to far off from that... |
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