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Posted: 4/27/2014 12:44:21 PM EDT
Hi, I just recently acquired an M1 from GB. Really excited about it. I was originally shopping for an M14, but just couldn't stomach the hit on the wallet. I figured the M1 was a good compromise, if you could even call it that.
The seller (A+ feedback, over 400 auctions with multiple M1s) says it is a CMP Service Grade Special but did not come with any CMP paperwork. HRA 5.5M range receiver with a pristine stock set. Just love the way this rifle feels and can't wait to see what it can do. Is there a way for me to get a letter from CMP to establish provenance? Not planning on selling it, but would like to have something for my records and peace of mind... |
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Yeah, you can call the CMP and they'll tell you if it's a CMP rifle or not. It'll cost you $20 if I remember correctly. A lot of people claim their M1's are CMP rifles when they're not. Have there been cases where they buy brand new CMP stocks and sell as CMP rifles? The seller's other M1 auctions were not claimed to be CMPs. The rifle is clean, metal finish is 95%+, stock has a clear CMP cartouche and the wood is pristine. Bore and muzzle are clean, but I don't have any gauges to check erosion. I'll give CMP a call though, would love to know for sure. |
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HRAs are some of the very best-made M1s; right up there with late model Springfields. They used all the latest de-bugged designs and parts. Here's hoping your rifle has lots of HRA parts, or at least late Springfield parts.
Most HRAs saw little use, and are likely to be in great shape. Your stock looks brand-new, and dry as a bone. Go to the CMP site, and look up the refinishing area. Many Garand owners prefer linseed oil, but a lot prefer tung oil. The advantage to tung oil is that it polymerizes, and so seals the wood against moisture much better than linseed oil, plus it needs no re-applications. Disadvantage is the initial cost, but seen as an investment, this becomes trivial. Some will say that linseed oil is GI, and that is true, BUT linseed oil was used as a substitute for the originally-specified tung oil. Since your stock is brand-new, and presumably without dents and scrapes, why not keep it so? Consider a synthetic stock mfd by RamLine, and often found on sale at natchez shooters supply? I have one, and it is the best syn stock for a Garand, period. |
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HRAs are some of the very best-made M1s; right up there with late model Springfields. They used all the latest de-bugged designs and parts. Here's hoping your rifle has lots of HRA parts, or at least late Springfield parts. Most HRAs saw little use, and are likely to be in great shape. Your stock looks brand-new, and dry as a bone. Go to the CMP site, and look up the refinishing area. Many Garand owners prefer linseed oil, but a lot prefer tung oil. The advantage to tung oil is that it polymerizes, and so seals the wood against moisture much better than linseed oil, plus it needs no re-applications. Disadvantage is the initial cost, but seen as an investment, this becomes trivial. Some will say that linseed oil is GI, and that is true, BUT linseed oil was used as a substitute for the originally-specified tung oil. Since your stock is brand-new, and presumably without dents and scrapes, why not keep it so? Consider a synthetic stock mfd by RamLine, and often found on sale at natchez shooters supply? I have one, and it is the best syn stock for a Garand, period. I thought about swapping out the stock but figured I'll leave it on. I won't be running it hard and small incidental damage won't be painful for me. Are CMP stocks unfinished? I don't mind the matte finish, but if it's not finished at all I guess I'll have to decide on something... What I don't want is something that looks lacquered. I saw a few for sale with that and it really turned me off. |
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I thought about swapping out the stock but figured I'll leave it on. I won't be running it hard and small incidental damage won't be painful for me. Are CMP stocks unfinished? I don't mind the matte finish, but if it's not finished at all I guess I'll have to decide on something... What I don't want is something that looks lacquered. I saw a few for sale with that and it really turned me off. Quoted:
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HRAs are some of the very best-made M1s; right up there with late model Springfields. They used all the latest de-bugged designs and parts. Here's hoping your rifle has lots of HRA parts, or at least late Springfield parts. Most HRAs saw little use, and are likely to be in great shape. Your stock looks brand-new, and dry as a bone. Go to the CMP site, and look up the refinishing area. Many Garand owners prefer linseed oil, but a lot prefer tung oil. The advantage to tung oil is that it polymerizes, and so seals the wood against moisture much better than linseed oil, plus it needs no re-applications. Disadvantage is the initial cost, but seen as an investment, this becomes trivial. Some will say that linseed oil is GI, and that is true, BUT linseed oil was used as a substitute for the originally-specified tung oil. Since your stock is brand-new, and presumably without dents and scrapes, why not keep it so? Consider a synthetic stock mfd by RamLine, and often found on sale at natchez shooters supply? I have one, and it is the best syn stock for a Garand, period. I thought about swapping out the stock but figured I'll leave it on. I won't be running it hard and small incidental damage won't be painful for me. Are CMP stocks unfinished? I don't mind the matte finish, but if it's not finished at all I guess I'll have to decide on something... What I don't want is something that looks lacquered. I saw a few for sale with that and it really turned me off. With tung oil, you have a choice on how glossy the finish will be, as it comes in gloss, satin, and matte types. How many coats you apply, using OOOO steel wool in between coats, determines how smooth the finish will be. |
May I suggest this Tung Oil. And patience. Lots of patience. I put 10 coats over the course of a month on my Obeche laminate stock, and I believe it could have soaked up a few more. Turned out great. Read the instructions about thinning with Citrus Solvent to get better penetration. I might buy some of their Dark Tung Oil, mix it with the light stuff I have left, and do my Garand, which has a pretty raw CMP stock. |
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It definitely looks like a CMP Special grade to me. The Specials are about as close as you can come to a new garand. They have excellent condition metal on new stocks. At some point the CMP even started putting a CMP stamp on the stocks. CMP Specials also came with new Criteron made barrels. Like you found it's only $25 to determine for sure if it came from them. Looks like a nice gun.
If it has a USGI barrel, then if it was CMP it was a service grade - not Special. Earl |
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It definitely looks like a CMP Special grade to me. The Specials are about as close as you can come to a new garand. They have excellent condition metal on new stocks. At some point the CMP even started putting a CMP stamp on the stocks. CMP Specials also came with new Criteron made barrels. Like you found it's only $25 to determine for sure if it came from them. Looks like a nice gun. If it has a USGI barrel, then if it was CMP it was a service grade - not Special. Earl Quoted:
It definitely looks like a CMP Special grade to me. The Specials are about as close as you can come to a new garand. They have excellent condition metal on new stocks. At some point the CMP even started putting a CMP stamp on the stocks. CMP Specials also came with new Criteron made barrels. Like you found it's only $25 to determine for sure if it came from them. Looks like a nice gun. If it has a USGI barrel, then if it was CMP it was a service grade - not Special. Earl It's actually was sold to me as a Service Grade HRA Special, which has the new stock, refinished parts and doesn't come with the new criterion barrel like the Specials. So it falls somewhere between a Service and Special, and I felt it was the sweet spot for me. 
From the CMP site: "RM1HRASSP, M1 Garand, Service Grade HRA (Harrington & Richardson) Special, HRA collector grade metal in excellent almost new condition. Walnut stocks and handguards and associated hardware are new manufacture. NOT original HRA manufacture." ETA: It lists under the Service Grade category, it's kinda hidden in there. At first, I thought seller was immediately a scam because I could not find a "service grade special" on the CMP M1 sales site. The more I researched it and after finding it on the CMP site, the more I liked it and felt it was a good halfway between the two grades. Of course, that will be all null/void if CMP tells me it's not what I think it is. 
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the Garand is a wonderful thing 
Don't shoot walmart hunting ammo thru it Yeah, I'm pumped to shoot it! I bought a case the correct 30-06 and planning on going out middle of next week sometime to fire it. |
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Yep, they change the offerings frequently as their stock changes and what they have to offer varies. I hadn't been on the CMP much in the last couple of years...started looking around a bit more lately, that's never good.. :)
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It's actually was sold to me as a Service Grade HRA Special, which has the new stock, refinished parts and doesn't come with the new criterion barrel like the Specials. So it falls somewhere between a Service and Special, and I felt it was the sweet spot for me.
From the CMP site: "RM1HRASSP, M1 Garand, Service Grade HRA (Harrington & Richardson) Special, HRA collector grade metal in excellent almost new condition. Walnut stocks and handguards and associated hardware are new manufacture. NOT original HRA manufacture." ETA: It lists under the Service Grade category, it's kinda hidden in there. At first, I thought seller was immediately a scam because I could not find a "service grade special" on the CMP M1 sales site. The more I researched it and after finding it on the CMP site, the more I liked it and felt it was a good halfway between the two grades. Of course, that will be all null/void if CMP tells me it's not what I think it is.
Yeah, I'm pumped to shoot it! I bought a case the correct 30-06 and planning on going out middle of next week sometime to fire it. Quoted:
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It definitely looks like a CMP Special grade to me. The Specials are about as close as you can come to a new garand. They have excellent condition metal on new stocks. At some point the CMP even started putting a CMP stamp on the stocks. CMP Specials also came with new Criteron made barrels. Like you found it's only $25 to determine for sure if it came from them. Looks like a nice gun. If it has a USGI barrel, then if it was CMP it was a service grade - not Special. Earl It's actually was sold to me as a Service Grade HRA Special, which has the new stock, refinished parts and doesn't come with the new criterion barrel like the Specials. So it falls somewhere between a Service and Special, and I felt it was the sweet spot for me.
From the CMP site: "RM1HRASSP, M1 Garand, Service Grade HRA (Harrington & Richardson) Special, HRA collector grade metal in excellent almost new condition. Walnut stocks and handguards and associated hardware are new manufacture. NOT original HRA manufacture." ETA: It lists under the Service Grade category, it's kinda hidden in there. At first, I thought seller was immediately a scam because I could not find a "service grade special" on the CMP M1 sales site. The more I researched it and after finding it on the CMP site, the more I liked it and felt it was a good halfway between the two grades. Of course, that will be all null/void if CMP tells me it's not what I think it is.
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the Garand is a wonderful thing
Don't shoot walmart hunting ammo thru it Yeah, I'm pumped to shoot it! I bought a case the correct 30-06 and planning on going out middle of next week sometime to fire it. |
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I like IMR 4895 This is right out of the NRA M1 Garand book.......................... ................. M1 Garand Load Data http://masterpostemple.bravepages.com/M1load.htm M1 loads (Courtesy of the NRA) Recommended .30 caliber M1 loadings from the NRA 147 - 155 grain FMJ or HPBT bullets IMR 3031 - 48.0 grains IMR 4895 - 49.0 grains IMR 4064 - 50.0 grains W748 - 48.0 grains AA2460 - 49.0 grains AA2520 - 51.0 grains AA2495 - 50.5 grains H4895 - 49.0 grains BLC-2 - 49.0 grains H335 - 49.0 grains RL-12 - 48.0 grains 165/168 grain FMJ, HP or SP bullets IMR 4895 - 47.0 grains IMR 4094 - 48.0 grains AA2520 - 47.5 grains AA2495 - 47.0 grains H4895 - 47.5 grains BLC-2 - 49.0 grains H335 - 47.0 grains RL-12 - 44.5 grains Master Po's comments These loads only duplicate military spec. velocities for the given bullet weight, using commercial cases and powders. If you are using military cases, drop all charges by 2 grains. If you are looking for accuracy, drop all charges by 1 grain and work up .2 grains at a time. |
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I contacted CMP. current going rate for s/n check is $25 and will take 2-3 weeks. I guess not too bad for my own peace of mind. Peace of mind??? Why does it matter ? Save the $25 and spend it on ammo etc. From looking at the rifle and from the good seller you bought it from I would not dobdt that its a $625 CMP Service Grade rifle. Shoot it and forget it |
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I believe federal makes an "exact copy" of M2 ball that is reportedly pretty good, and doesn't run the risk of bending the shit out of your op-rod There are many commercial loads that are perfectly safe. for the price you're still better off buying directly from the CMP. But in a pinch almost anything 150 grains or less is fine. http://www.garandgear.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=106:shooting-commercial-ammunition-in-your-m1-garand&catid=39 |
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There are many commercial loads that are perfectly safe. for the price you're still better off buying directly from the CMP. But in a pinch almost anything 150 grains or less is fine. http://www.garandgear.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=106:shooting-commercial-ammunition-in-your-m1-garand&catid=39 Quoted:
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I believe federal makes an "exact copy" of M2 ball that is reportedly pretty good, and doesn't run the risk of bending the shit out of your op-rod There are many commercial loads that are perfectly safe. for the price you're still better off buying directly from the CMP. But in a pinch almost anything 150 grains or less is fine. http://www.garandgear.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=106:shooting-commercial-ammunition-in-your-m1-garand&catid=39 Oh yeah, I do my best to stack the M2 Ball deep. But for those who don't necessarily have an account with affiliated programs, CMP isn't an option 
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Oh yeah, I do my best to stack the M2 Ball deep. But for those who don't necessarily have an account with affiliated programs, CMP isn't an option Quoted:
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I believe federal makes an "exact copy" of M2 ball that is reportedly pretty good, and doesn't run the risk of bending the shit out of your op-rod There are many commercial loads that are perfectly safe. for the price you're still better off buying directly from the CMP. But in a pinch almost anything 150 grains or less is fine. http://www.garandgear.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=106:shooting-commercial-ammunition-in-your-m1-garand&catid=39 Oh yeah, I do my best to stack the M2 Ball deep. But for those who don't necessarily have an account with affiliated programs, CMP isn't an option $14 at the M1 Collectors Club and you are a club memeber |
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Oh yeah, I do my best to stack the M2 Ball deep. But for those who don't necessarily have an account with affiliated programs, CMP isn't an option Quoted:
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I believe federal makes an "exact copy" of M2 ball that is reportedly pretty good, and doesn't run the risk of bending the shit out of your op-rod There are many commercial loads that are perfectly safe. for the price you're still better off buying directly from the CMP. But in a pinch almost anything 150 grains or less is fine. http://www.garandgear.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=106:shooting-commercial-ammunition-in-your-m1-garand&catid=39 Oh yeah, I do my best to stack the M2 Ball deep. But for those who don't necessarily have an account with affiliated programs, CMP isn't an option I thought you joined the GCA dude |
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I thought you joined the GCA dude Quoted:
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I believe federal makes an "exact copy" of M2 ball that is reportedly pretty good, and doesn't run the risk of bending the shit out of your op-rod There are many commercial loads that are perfectly safe. for the price you're still better off buying directly from the CMP. But in a pinch almost anything 150 grains or less is fine. http://www.garandgear.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=106:shooting-commercial-ammunition-in-your-m1-garand&catid=39 Oh yeah, I do my best to stack the M2 Ball deep. But for those who don't necessarily have an account with affiliated programs, CMP isn't an option I thought you joined the GCA dude Dude, you dont have to join the GCA. "Any' affiliated club is fine,there are many |
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I thought you joined the GCA dude I did, I'm just saying for those who have not yet. Probably going to start hoarding more M2 ball shortly, as well as ordering new en blocs. For some reason, only one .30 cal can of clipped up M2 ball just isn't enough in my mind hahaha |
Welp, I took some time to strip her down last night. Didn't have the intestinal fortitude to take down further the trigger assembly, bolt or gas cylinder. Inspected what I could, then got her cleaned and greased up. Took a good chunk of my evening being the first time and all, but it was great to see what makes this kitten pur! 
But seriously, what a beauty! I was just awed by the design, detail and craftmanship of such an old firearm. Now time to research these heat numbers and see what I've got... 
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I found the bolt and the trigger assembly to be very easy to get apart, but both are some serious motherfuckers when you try to put them back together. It's very doable, but I personally had trouble.
You MAY find yourself needing to buy a new spring kit for it, but you probably wont find that out until after you've put some rounds down range. In one trip I had a double fire with one clip, and then an en bloc ejected after only 4 rounds. Havn't had the problem since replacing them. |
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I found the bolt and the trigger assembly to be very easy to get apart, but both are some serious motherfuckers when you try to put them back together. It's very doable, but I personally had trouble. You MAY find yourself needing to buy a new spring kit for it, but you probably wont find that out until after you've put some rounds down range. In one trip I had a double fire with one clip, and then an en bloc ejected after only 4 rounds. Havn't had the problem since replacing them. Yeah, I shied away from taking apart those two, especially with the limited time I had last night between when the boy went to sleep and the end of the night. I didn't want to start something that would end up taking hours to put back together or worse. Does anyone know what that large "14" on the side of the trigger means? I was looking up all the heat codes and was able to find info on pretty much everything except that "14", or at least that's what it looks like to me. 12th pic down (or 3rd from bottom). |
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That is a beautiful rifle you have, and a National Match part to boot!
I highly recommend you buy a spring kit from Orion7. This will save you trouble . |
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That is a beautiful rifle you have, and a National Match part to boot! I highly recommend you buy a spring kit from Orion7. This will save you trouble . Thanks for the link! |
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Thanks for the link! Quoted:
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That is a beautiful rifle you have, and a National Match part to boot! I highly recommend you buy a spring kit from Orion7. This will save you trouble . Thanks for the link! No problem. I highly recommend getting the full spring kit. Don't forget to grease the hell out of the spring |
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You could but honestly I don't think it's needed, my garand on the right in the first page is in a CMP new walnut stock and I just put BLO on top. I don't know what's put on top of their stocks though. Thanks! I'm leaning towards the raw linseed oil... would be a good spring/summer project. I was originally thinking about refinishing my K31 stock (shock, horror I know), but I might just leave it as is and focus on the M1 now. |
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Thanks! I'm leaning towards the raw linseed oil... would be a good spring/summer project. I was originally thinking about refinishing my K31 stock (shock, horror I know), but I might just leave it as is and focus on the M1 now. Quoted:
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You could but honestly I don't think it's needed, my garand on the right in the first page is in a CMP new walnut stock and I just put BLO on top. I don't know what's put on top of their stocks though. Thanks! I'm leaning towards the raw linseed oil... would be a good spring/summer project. I was originally thinking about refinishing my K31 stock (shock, horror I know), but I might just leave it as is and focus on the M1 now. Raw Linseed Oil (RLO) was the military finish for a long time. If you want the reddish brown look of the older military rifles, that is what you would use to get it. RLO never really "dries". Boiled Linseed Oil basically has driers added to it. It also will turn reddish brown as it ages, however, it will not turn colors as fast or as dark. Once you get 4-6 coats of RLO or BLO on your stock, it will start to take on a sheen. The more oil is built up, the more it will shine. My normal procedure it to liberally brush on whichever one I am using, let it set for about 10 minutes, then wipe off the excess with a lint free cloth(I use old T-shirts). Once it is wiped off, I rubbed the wood with my hand until I feel heat. Do this for a couple of days, and it will start to shine. The more it is exposed to sunlight, the quicker it will change colors too. Tung Oil has also been used by the military. It seals against moisture a bit better either RLO or BLO, however, it does not change color with age. Here are two pics of the same stock. Pics are taken about 4 years apart. Stock is finished n BLO. 
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Raw Linseed Oil (RLO) was the military finish for a long time. If you want the reddish brown look of the older military rifles, that is what you would use to get it. RLO never really "dries". Boiled Linseed Oil basically has driers added to it. It also will turn reddish brown as it ages, however, it will not turn colors as fast or as dark. Once you get 4-6 coats of RLO or BLO on your stock, it will start to take on a sheen. The more oil is built up, the more it will shine. My normal procedure it to liberally brush on whichever one I am using, let it set for about 10 minutes, then wipe off the excess with a lint free cloth(I use old T-shirts). Once it is wiped off, I rubbed the wood with my hand until I feel heat. Do this for a couple of days, and it will start to shine. The more it is exposed to sunlight, the quicker it will change colors too. Tung Oil has also been used by the military. It seals against moisture a bit better either RLO or BLO, however, it does not change color with age. Here are two pics of the same stock. Pics are taken about 4 years apart. Stock is finished n BLO. <a href="http://s752.photobucket.com/user/Sailormilan2/media/WW2Springfield1.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx166/Sailormilan2/WW2Springfield1.jpg</a> <a href="http://s752.photobucket.com/user/Sailormilan2/media/WW2Springfield3.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx166/Sailormilan2/WW2Springfield3.jpg</a> Quoted:
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You could but honestly I don't think it's needed, my garand on the right in the first page is in a CMP new walnut stock and I just put BLO on top. I don't know what's put on top of their stocks though. Thanks! I'm leaning towards the raw linseed oil... would be a good spring/summer project. I was originally thinking about refinishing my K31 stock (shock, horror I know), but I might just leave it as is and focus on the M1 now. Raw Linseed Oil (RLO) was the military finish for a long time. If you want the reddish brown look of the older military rifles, that is what you would use to get it. RLO never really "dries". Boiled Linseed Oil basically has driers added to it. It also will turn reddish brown as it ages, however, it will not turn colors as fast or as dark. Once you get 4-6 coats of RLO or BLO on your stock, it will start to take on a sheen. The more oil is built up, the more it will shine. My normal procedure it to liberally brush on whichever one I am using, let it set for about 10 minutes, then wipe off the excess with a lint free cloth(I use old T-shirts). Once it is wiped off, I rubbed the wood with my hand until I feel heat. Do this for a couple of days, and it will start to shine. The more it is exposed to sunlight, the quicker it will change colors too. Tung Oil has also been used by the military. It seals against moisture a bit better either RLO or BLO, however, it does not change color with age. Here are two pics of the same stock. Pics are taken about 4 years apart. Stock is finished n BLO. <a href="http://s752.photobucket.com/user/Sailormilan2/media/WW2Springfield1.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx166/Sailormilan2/WW2Springfield1.jpg</a> <a href="http://s752.photobucket.com/user/Sailormilan2/media/WW2Springfield3.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx166/Sailormilan2/WW2Springfield3.jpg</a> 4 years? Did it take that full amount of time to get to that color, or did it stop earlier? You guys are giving me lots of food for thought. While raw linseed is the original, "correct" finish, BLO has its advantages and will entually oxidize to a similar color as raw, am I rightt? |
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Personally, I would consider obtaining the desired shade of stain (there are many from Midwayusa and Brownell's), stain the stock inside and out after removing all metal, and then treat with tung oil. Better finish, better water and humidity protection, no complicated and tedious re-applications and rubbing-in needed, and generally speaking a quick way to get the desired color results.
OTOH, if you enjoy re-applying linseed oil every so often, and waiting a few years for the color to settle-in, then go that route. |
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4 years? Did it take that full amount of time to get to that color, or did it stop earlier? You guys are giving me lots of food for thought. While raw linseed is the original, "correct" finish, BLO has its advantages and will entually oxidize to a similar color as raw, am I rightt? Quoted:
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You could but honestly I don't think it's needed, my garand on the right in the first page is in a CMP new walnut stock and I just put BLO on top. I don't know what's put on top of their stocks though. Thanks! I'm leaning towards the raw linseed oil... would be a good spring/summer project. I was originally thinking about refinishing my K31 stock (shock, horror I know), but I might just leave it as is and focus on the M1 now. Raw Linseed Oil (RLO) was the military finish for a long time. If you want the reddish brown look of the older military rifles, that is what you would use to get it. RLO never really "dries". Boiled Linseed Oil basically has driers added to it. It also will turn reddish brown as it ages, however, it will not turn colors as fast or as dark. Once you get 4-6 coats of RLO or BLO on your stock, it will start to take on a sheen. The more oil is built up, the more it will shine. My normal procedure it to liberally brush on whichever one I am using, let it set for about 10 minutes, then wipe off the excess with a lint free cloth(I use old T-shirts). Once it is wiped off, I rubbed the wood with my hand until I feel heat. Do this for a couple of days, and it will start to shine. The more it is exposed to sunlight, the quicker it will change colors too. Tung Oil has also been used by the military. It seals against moisture a bit better either RLO or BLO, however, it does not change color with age. Here are two pics of the same stock. Pics are taken about 4 years apart. Stock is finished n BLO. <a href="http://s752.photobucket.com/user/Sailormilan2/media/WW2Springfield1.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx166/Sailormilan2/WW2Springfield1.jpg</a> <a href="http://s752.photobucket.com/user/Sailormilan2/media/WW2Springfield3.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx166/Sailormilan2/WW2Springfield3.jpg</a> 4 years? Did it take that full amount of time to get to that color, or did it stop earlier? You guys are giving me lots of food for thought. While raw linseed is the original, "correct" finish, BLO has its advantages and will entually oxidize to a similar color as raw, am I rightt? Actually, it sat in the safe for along time while I focused on other things. RLO changes color much quicker than that. |
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Personally, I would consider obtaining the desired shade of stain (there are many from Midwayusa and Brownell's), stain the stock inside and out after removing all metal, and then treat with tung oil. Better finish, better water and humidity protection, no complicated and tedious re-applications and rubbing-in needed, and generally speaking a quick way to get the desired color results. OTOH, if you enjoy re-applying linseed oil every so often, and waiting a few years for the color to settle-in, then go that route. There's really nothing complicated with BLO. That said Tung oil is just as correct, dries better and I don't think the rags catch fire like those soaked in the linseed can... and looks great too OP. |
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just skimmed the thread so i dont know if it's specified anywhere, but i just want to point out that there are two different specials:
Service Grade Specials: collector grade rifles with new wood. there were found in crates as complete rifles minus stocks, if i recall correctly, in unissed condition. they are NOT reparked, they're brand new, essentially CMP specials: completely reconditioned rifles in new wood, all parts on these should be reparked/refurb'd, basically a brand new rifle as well. they're similar, but SGS's are a way better deal IMO, since they're original finish rifles, not reparked. very nice rifle
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SGS's are a way better deal IMO, since they're original finish rifles, not reparked. It just depends on what your purpose for the rifle is. As a pure shooter, I would choose the CMP special with the Criterion barrel. For something more collectible, the Service Grade Special is the clear winner. |
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Quoted:
It just depends on what your purpose for the rifle is. As a pure shooter, I would choose the CMP special with the Criterion barrel. For something more collectible, the Service Grade Special is the clear winner. Quoted:
Quoted:
SGS's are a way better deal IMO, since they're original finish rifles, not reparked. It just depends on what your purpose for the rifle is. As a pure shooter, I would choose the CMP special with the Criterion barrel. For something more collectible, the Service Grade Special is the clear winner. That's why I was so keen on this one... I felt it struck the perfect balance between a shooter and a collectible. |
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With that picture showing you it has an HRA barrel, it's definitely not a CMP Special as they come with a new Criterion barrel. It's likely a just a good example of a Service Grade M1 with a new stock. Nothing wrong with that, a good condition HRA M1 Garand is a great rifle. I have both a 1954 Correct Grade (100% correct) HRA in like new condition as well as a CMP Special Springfield, fully rebuilt with a Criterion barrel. The HRA has been retired along with my pristine, 1943 high wood stocked M1 Carbine I've had for 40 years and the Springfield is our shooter. |
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Quoted:
With that picture showing you it has an HRA barrel, it's definitely not a CMP Special as they come with a new Criterion barrel. It's likely a just a good example of a Service Grade M1 with a new stock. Nothing wrong with that, a good condition HRA M1 Garand is a great rifle. I have both a 1954 Correct Grade (100% correct) HRA in like new condition as well as a CMP Special Springfield, fully rebuilt with a Criterion barrel. The HRA has been retired along with my pristine, 1943 high wood stocked M1 Carbine I've had for 40 years and the Springfield is our shooter. No it was advertised as a CMP Service Special, listed under the service grades, but with (what I now know as) all new parts and new CMP stock. I consider it sort of an in-between the service and special. But man, sounds like you got some great rifles! I'm not sure if I'll get another M1, I'm really eying an M14 in the future. I really like my M1, though, regardless if it's what it was sold as or not. Took it out to the range this week and had a blast. Here she is with the K31 I took out as well. 
Shot the PPU 30-06. Shot I think 8 clips worth, and had a couple hang ups with FTF which was solved with a tap on the charging handle. I'm going to say it was a combo of new parts and maybe my lack of experience lubing the M1. That *ping* is thoroughly addicting! |
| Nice Garand ! From the pics, it looks like the ones from Dupage Trading. My local guy had some this past summer. I think they were around $850 ?. Dupage also had some sweet high number 1903's. Being a new Garand owner, you may not know, don't shoot commercial '06 ammo without changing the gas valve. Either re-load, use surplus, or buy the special Garand load. Commercial ammo is too hot, and you could possibly bend the op rod. Have fun with it, Nice rifle !!!! |
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47.5gr of H4895 under a 155gr SMK could Swiss-cheese a 3" spotter disk at 200 yards out of a friend's Service Grade HRA, also in the 5.5m range. I've gotten 1 bronze, 1 silver, and 2 gold medals in John C. Garand matches with that rifle.
Let us know if you get M1 Thumb. 
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