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Posted: 12/24/2011 1:41:49 PM EDT
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Bolt roller came off my Springfield M1A at 380 rounds so I sent it back and they fixed it in a week. Took her out today and the new one lasted 28 rounds ! Oh well, back she goes. I've done the paper test under the roller and it's not hitting the receiver, only thing I can figure is the slot on the bolt is out of spec.
Got it back from SA, it only took 8 days. They put a new bolt in this time. Took it out today run 50 rounds threw with no problems. |
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Are you greasing the roller?
You can buy a roller greaser from Brownell's and Fulton Armory, or you can make one from a .45ACP cartridge case. Just cut the case off so it won't quite bottom out on the roller. Pack the case with grease and force it over the roller. The pressure will force grease into the roller. |
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Quoted:
Are you greasing the roller? You can buy a roller greaser from Brownell's and Fulton Armory, or you can make one from a .45ACP cartridge case. Just cut the case off so it won't quite bottom out on the roller. Pack the case with grease and force it over the roller. The pressure will force grease into the roller. Shouldn't make a difference. Test run in the 1940's with a Garand converted to a roller, ran almost 10,000 rounds dry. Bad bolt. |
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any more info on the .45 casing for a roller bearing greaser? Since you asked for it.............. It's time to chime in.
I get very tired of hearing guys say (on multiple other threads) that a .45 ACP case makes a good bolt roller greaser. That size case is WAY TOO BIG and does nothing to squirt the grease under the bearing where it needs to go. All it does is smear grease all over the outside of the roller. You need a tighter fit to get proper hydraulic action. HERE IS HOW TO MAKE A PROPER GREASER: 1. Get a spent 7.62x51 case and saw off the bottom 3/4 inch or so. 2. Note that the roller is .403 inches in diameter (not .45). The inside diameter of the base of the brass case where you sawed it off is a bit smaller than this and needs to be opened up to a nice tight sliding fit on the roller. 3. Note that a size Y drill is .404 - perfect to open up the ID of that sawed-off case to about .001 larger than the roller. Note also that in the absence of a size Y drill, a 13/32 is .406 - next best. 4. You can chuck the sawed-off case in a lathe collet and bore it out or ream it with the above mentioned drill bits, or you can be brave and do it with a drill press. One you have your sawed-off case reamed out to .404 or so, you can fill it with grease and press it onto the roller. It has a nice tight fit. You will see the old grease squirt out the back off the roller as the new grease squirts in - just like a grease gun on a tie rod. Look Ma! Clean hands! Clean roller! Properly greased roller! This works great and it takes all of 10 minutes to make. Do it. Posted by: Sustinemus (m14tfl.com) Lubing the bolt roller bearing is important and should be done as a routine service. It is important to understand where the lube should go. Getting the lube in and up under the bearing is somewhat time consuming.. I don't know if the lube cups that are being sold perform this job. Spreading lube all over the surface of the roller and lug is not lubing the bearing.
Here is how it was done years ago. Smear the lube being use across the heel of your hand, a thin coat about one inch sq... Holding the bolt so the tips of the first three fingers and thumb are against the inside of bearing, push the bearing away from the bolt body. Force the unit into and down on the lube. Push down and drag the unit across the heel forcing lube in and up around the bearing. Continue to do this until lube can be seen coming out the back side of the bearing. Now the lube is in the area where it is needed, A small amount of lube around the rest of the area and inside the rod and you have completed the job. Posted By: Art Luppino (m14tfl.com) Aloha, Mark |
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Sort of like lubing the roller bearings on your car. Yep... I just put a little grease on my thumb and push the grease into the roller until I see it come out the other side. Just takes a second or two... and I always have my thumb with me... So no need to look for a tool 
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any more info on the .45 casing for a roller bearing greaser? I use a shortened .45acp case, works for me. Too much clearance. Use a .40 S&W pistol case. The bolt roller is .402" and the .40 S&W case is .40". Put a .30-06 case in the front of the .40 and squeeze them together in a vise for a SHORT distance. The bolt roller then easilly enters the case and you can even hear the air suck in when you pull the roller out of the empty case. Make sure that you clean all the carbon and primer grit out of the case before filling the case to the top with grease. You don't want that abrasive being mixed with the grease. .40 S&W cases are quite common on most pistol ranges. No expense and very little work to make. |
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