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Posted: 3/27/2010 7:18:48 PM EDT
| Is there any tricks to this? I've got my wrench but don't want to screw anything up, if I'm looking down the barrel do I turn to the left? so basically I just loosen the nut and it comes right off, correct? Thanks in advance guys. |
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righty tighty, left loosey(like most tuff)
get a better/stronger set and when i get to the end,i use a small punch and hammer to get it off. peck around the back(evenly) and make sure both of the "teeth" are in a groove, might need to back the nut off alittle just my .02 |
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Remove the locking set screw totally, put it into a safe place. Then, loosen, by unscrewing, the locking castle nut "ring". Once it's loose you should be able to start sliding the flash hider forward. However, the fh may need a few LIGHT "love" taps to get it move forward. Use a plastic mallet, or a wood block. Tap on the lug of the bayonet mount. As the fh moves forward continue to unscrew the castle nut until its clear of the threads. The fh should then be able to be slid of the end of the barrel.
If the castle nut wouldn't budge, then it can be loosened by using a BRASS drift, or brass rod, to drive/spin the castle nut. A LIGHT tap with the brass drift against one of the notches and it should start to move. Lay the rifle on a bench and be certain to support the bottom of the barrel/flash hider with a block of wood. Penetrating oil can also be used. When buying a set of castle nut pliers always get the USGI spec set. There's a good reason they cost more. |
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Quoted:
Let some CLP soak in there and make sure that little 1/16th inch Allen screw is out of there. I was dealing with rifles that had been through one Anniston rebuild already and the parkerizing sort of sealed the threads like the LocTite from hell. Alright it's been soaking in CLP a while. Just to make sure, I am twisting the castle nut counter clockwise when I look at it from this direction, right? 
Thanks again brothers. |
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put the barreled action in a aluminum vise jaws (pop the op-rod out)(run tape around barrel to protect finish) now take a dremel & cut the castle nut, cut in the the direction of the barrel being careful not to muck anything up - dremel & small thin cutting wheel will get the job done fast, often cutting the slot 3/4 way through they will "pop" so you don't have to get to the fine threads with the cutter.
small grinding wheel also, same principal, grind till the side of the castle nut is thin & use the wrench, nut will expand or break at thin spot. Those castle nuts are "throw away parts" I have bent those wrenches so many times 
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