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Posted: 2/28/2010 10:44:58 PM EDT
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My '44 Inland carbine will not extract spent shells. It fires them just fine, every time, and the bolt will cycle, but the casing remains in the chamber and I have to use needle nose pliers to remove it. I am assuming this is an issue of a worn out extractor, but wanted to get some further input from some people who may well be smarter/more knowledgeable than myself. Is there anything else that comes to mind that could be causing this?
This may seem incredibly simple to many, but, as I said, I'm just probing before I go off buying new parts and whatnot. Thank you. |
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Step One, is to use a bronze brush to scrub the chamber. Inspect with a small mirror for corrosion, rings, bulges, or scratches.
For the extractor, just cut to the chase and buy a GI type bolt tool and a new USGI extractor, extractor spring and plunger. Use the bolt tool to disassemble the bolt and give everything a good cleaning. Reassemble with the new extractor and spring assembly. If you're smart, you won't try bolt disassembly without the bolt tool. Also, read one of the online GI Carbine manuals on how to use the bolt tool. If you use it incorrectly, it breaks. |
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Quoted:
Step One, is to use a bronze brush to scrub the chamber. Inspect with a small mirror for corrosion, rings, bulges, or scratches. For the extractor, just cut to the chase and buy a GI type bolt tool and a new USGI extractor, extractor spring and plunger. Use the bolt tool to disassemble the bolt and give everything a good cleaning. Reassemble with the new extractor and spring assembly. If you're smart, you won't try bolt disassembly without the bolt tool. Also, read one of the online GI Carbine manuals on how to use the bolt tool. If you use it incorrectly, it breaks. Excellent advice but one question ............. You are using brass cased good quality ammo right ??? No Wolf steel cases......... 
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Quoted:
Step One, is to use a bronze brush to scrub the chamber. Inspect with a small mirror for corrosion, rings, bulges, or scratches. For the extractor, just cut to the chase and buy a GI type bolt tool and a new USGI extractor, extractor spring and plunger. Use the bolt tool to disassemble the bolt and give everything a good cleaning. Reassemble with the new extractor and spring assembly. If you're smart, you won't try bolt disassembly without the bolt tool. Also, read one of the online GI Carbine manuals on how to use the bolt tool. If you use it incorrectly, it breaks. Plus 1 info. Smart to follow this plan. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Step One, is to use a bronze brush to scrub the chamber. Inspect with a small mirror for corrosion, rings, bulges, or scratches. For the extractor, just cut to the chase and buy a GI type bolt tool and a new USGI extractor, extractor spring and plunger. Use the bolt tool to disassemble the bolt and give everything a good cleaning. Reassemble with the new extractor and spring assembly. If you're smart, you won't try bolt disassembly without the bolt tool. Also, read one of the online GI Carbine manuals on how to use the bolt tool. If you use it incorrectly, it breaks. Excellent advice but one question ............. You are using brass cased good quality ammo right ??? No Wolf steel cases......... +2 on info, and look closely at your brass when you pull it out, it may show you some signs as to why it is sticking |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Step One, is to use a bronze brush to scrub the chamber. Inspect with a small mirror for corrosion, rings, bulges, or scratches. For the extractor, just cut to the chase and buy a GI type bolt tool and a new USGI extractor, extractor spring and plunger. Use the bolt tool to disassemble the bolt and give everything a good cleaning. Reassemble with the new extractor and spring assembly. If you're smart, you won't try bolt disassembly without the bolt tool. Also, read one of the online GI Carbine manuals on how to use the bolt tool. If you use it incorrectly, it breaks. Excellent advice but one question ............. You are using brass cased good quality ammo right ??? No Wolf steel cases......... It has had Wolf. I feed it brass, but the brass is coming out filthy, so they could well be sticking in there... 
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| It will generally be an odd carbine that don't leave cases filthy, just the beast it is. If it has a type 2 extractor plunger make sure it is oriented correctly on the extractor. It is possible to reassemble this incorrectly and have ensuing problems. I would rule this out then follow the advice you've already been given. PS.. some guys shoot Wolf with no problem, others say it is hell on extractors to the point of broken/chipped extractors. Myself, I don't buy or shoot the stuff. |
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Quoted:
It will generally be an odd carbine that don't leave cases filthy, just the beast it is. If it has a type 2 extractor plunger make sure it is oriented correctly on the extractor. It is possible to reassemble this incorrectly and have ensuing problems. I would rule this out then follow the advice you've already been given. PS.. some guys shoot Wolf with no problem, others say it is hell on extractors to the point of broken/chipped extractors. Myself, I don't buy or shoot the stuff. Ive had the carbine for a while, several years. It had always functioned flawlessly until, all of a sudden, this. I burned through 500 rounds of Wolf (not at once  ) when I got it, but have since switched to brass. A friend of mine, with whom I split the full case of Wolf, didnt make it to round # 200 in his before his extractor just busted, plus something else broke but I cant remember what that was right now. Like I said, I have stopped with the Wolf in the carbine since this, and wouldnt be surprised if that contributed to where I am now.
I know it is mild steel, but still; if it is a little tough on the extractor, running it in the AR is one thing, thats a simple part swap that more than pays for itself in saved ammo costs. The carbine is a different matter entirely. |
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