Armory Sponsor
Posted: 11/2/2008 6:50:30 AM EDT
|
I will be ordering a m1a monday but I havent decided if I want the scout or a full size. I had a full size before that I realy liked but I like the scout a lot.
I cant see any huge advantage to the full size other than a little bbl length which prolly wont make a difference to me. If I wanted I could put a flash hider instead of the muzzle break on the scout right? So if you guys could just give me your opinions I would apreciate it. Sorry if this has been beaten to death i didnt see anything about this topic. Ps. I get 22% below dealer cost on springfeild armory through my school. I think they would both be about $950. 
|
|
Yes, you can put a flash suppressor on the M1A Scout Squad but you should get the lugless version. Without the bayonet lug, removing the gas cylinder plug can be removed with the flash suppressor installed.
I'm partial to the standard model M1A above all the rest. But then I'm old school. At this point in time, go with what your heart says. That way, you'll fight to keep it that much more in the dark days ahead. BTW, be sure to vote. |
|
Quoted:
Yes, you can put a flash suppressor on the M1A Scout Squad but you should get the lugless version. Without the bayonet lug, removing the gas cylinder plug can be removed with the flash suppressor installed. I'm partial to the standard model M1A above all the rest. But then I'm old school. At this point in time, go with what your heart says. That way, you'll fight to keep it that much more in the dark days ahead. BTW, be sure to vote. Thanks for the reply. When I ordered my loaded fullsize last year they sent me a lugless one. I didnt know they sold rifles with bayo lugs. I agree that the standard is sweet but I stil cant decide. |
|
The M1A Scout Squad is sold with a muzzle brake. That's why I suggest getting a lugless flash suppressor if you remove the muzzle brake. Correct, since September 1994, flash suppressors on assembled M1A rifles have been lugless. Complete M1A rifles shipped to California since the end of 1999 have all had muzzle brakes.
You need to decide. Flip a coin if you have to. |
|
Quoted:
The M1A Scout Squad is sold with a muzzle brake. That's why I suggest getting a lugless flash suppressor if you remove the muzzle brake. Correct, since September 1994, flash suppressors on assembled M1A rifles have been lugless. Complete M1A rifles shipped to California since the end of 1999 have all had muzzle brakes. You need to decide. Flip a coin if you have to. How much of a pain in the arse is it to install a flash hider with bayo lug on a scout? |
|
Either version:
1) You should use M14 flash suppressor nut pliers for the "castle" nut 2) 1/16 " hex head wrench for the "castle" nut setscrew 3) 3/32 " or 7/64 " hex head wrench for the front sight screw (two versions of front sight screws in use with non-SOCOM M1A rifles) If you install a flash suppressor with a bayonet lug on a M1A Scout Squad you won't be able to remove the gas cylinder plug for cleaning without removing the flash suppressor. If a bayonet capability is desired, I recommend a 22 " barrel model M1A, especially the standard model M1A. HTH |
|
I prefer the 18.0" barrel found on the Bush, Scout and MK14 rifles.
Unless you plan to engage targets beyond 650/700 yards, Those extra four inches of barrel will not be missed. Bayonets lugs and bayonets are no longer practical. The modern DC Vortex flash hider shortens the OAL a bit when compared to USGI, they accept a DC sound suppressor, they eliminate the castle nut and those pliers and they do a much better job of hiding muzzle flash. The GLFS are available in two styles. My next Smith Enterprise, Inc. build will have a standard profile 18.0" barrel 
|
|
"When I ordered my loaded fullsize last year they sent me a lugless one"
If you've already got a Loaded fullsize than you could use a shorty to fill other purposes in my eyes. I love my Fullsize, but it's not as handy in tight spaces as the Scout is regardless and I know the Scout's size makes it a better fighting rifle for realistic ranges if it ever came to it. Get the Scout, set it up for battlesight zero and close range shooting/fighting, and use the Loaded for long range. 
|
| Scout a full-size rifle. That way the back-up iron sights still work as intended, and the hold-overs on the scope also work. You also get a functional bayo lug as a bonus. The GI flash suppressor works just fine on a standard-length barrel, so no need to spend extra bux for an aftermarket FS that you don't really need. |
|
Quoted:
"When I ordered my loaded fullsize last year they sent me a lugless one" If you've already got a Loaded fullsize than you could use a shorty to fill other purposes in my eyes. I love my Fullsize, but it's not as handy in tight spaces as the Scout is regardless and I know the Scout's size makes it a better fighting rifle for realistic ranges if it ever came to it. Get the Scout, set it up for battlesight zero and close range shooting/fighting, and use the Loaded for long range. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk4/lookyrighthere/100_0194-1.jpg I sold my loaded fullsize. I think Im going to go with the scout and throw a vortex on it. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
"When I ordered my loaded fullsize last year they sent me a lugless one" If you've already got a Loaded fullsize than you could use a shorty to fill other purposes in my eyes. I love my Fullsize, but it's not as handy in tight spaces as the Scout is regardless and I know the Scout's size makes it a better fighting rifle for realistic ranges if it ever came to it. Get the Scout, set it up for battlesight zero and close range shooting/fighting, and use the Loaded for long range. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk4/lookyrighthere/100_0194-1.jpg I sold my loaded fullsize. I think Im going to go with the scout and throw a vortex on it. Unless you plan on shooting past 800 yards, your not going to miss the extra 4 inches of barrel and that's all that extra length serves is a little more velocity to give the bullet a little more umph when it's way out there. The Scout has got more than enough umph for most shooters and can be tuned just the same and be just as accurate. I have very little doubt that if the M14 was designed today, it wouldn't have a 22 inch barrel. It would have an 18 inch like so many SPR's of today. The German's obviously felt the G3 was pretty damn perfect with it's 18 inch barrel too. Enjoy your Scout. 
|
|
Being you're in CO I'd go with a standard since your country is more open. A scout would work fine for every state east of Nebraska, as well as westside Oregon & WA and northern Idaho because the vegetation cuts down on distances. BUT a scout is nice & I have converted a standard to a 18.5 to have one to go along with my standards.
BTW - Forget about a bayonet lug on a scout. It's better to be able to take the gas plug off for cleaning than having the lug that you'll likely never use. |
|
Quoted:
Being you're in CO I'd go with a standard since your country is more open. A scout would work fine for every state east of Nebraska, as well as westside Oregon & WA and northern Idaho because the vegetation cuts down on distances. BUT a scout is nice & I have converted a standard to a 18.5 to have one to go along with my standards. BTW - Forget about a bayonet lug on a scout. It's better to be able to take the gas plug off for cleaning than having the lug that you'll likely never use. I'm moving back to Va in a month. Taking advantage of my Springfeild discount while I still can. I am thinking the scout is the way to go. |
|
When you order your scout also order a lugless flash-hider from SA. Then find a good gunsmith that's worked on M1A's and have him/her swap out the MB for the flash-hider. No M1A should wear one of those except for those poor souls in leftist states.
Pick up some CProducts 20rd mags since they should be legit in VA. Also, consider a Ultimak M8 scout handguard. It's easy to self-install and gives you an excellent rock-solid platform for mounting a red dot and/or scout scope on QR rings. I've done that on my scout. Good luck! |
|
Quoted:
When you order your scout also order a lugless flash-hider from SA. Then find a good gunsmith that's worked on M1A's and have him/her swap out the MB for the flash-hider. No M1A should wear one of those except for those poor souls in leftist states. Pick up some CProducts 20rd mags since they should be legit in VA. Also, consider a Ultimak M8 scout handguard. It's easy to self-install and gives you an excellent rock-solid platform for mounting a red dot and/or scout scope on QR rings. I've done that on my scout. Good luck! I am in school for gunsmithing. I can do it no problem. I just wasnt sure if the scout was set up exactlly the same as a standard. I think the scout rail is an option as far as mounting optics. What do you think of the factory scout rail? I have 10 cmi mags from 44mag and I will order some more tommorow when i order my rifle. |
| I have a factory scout rail. but while functional it's length is so short that it only gives you one spot on the top for mounting optics. You can mount a red dot on it but with a scout scope you have to move the rings in tight to work. I've gone to the Ultimak because it offers more room for optics mounting plus I think it's a better heat sink vs the small SA mount which may concentrate the barrel heat on to the red dot. |
|
I think the scout rail is an option as far as mounting optics. What do you think of the factory scout rail? The Scout comes with a factory mounted optic rail. It sits high above the barrel, but it's easy to remove and sell off... I would replace it with the M8 hand guard from UltiMAK and install one of the Micro optics from Aimpoint. You will not need a cheek riser to use the micro optic and you may be able to co witness your iron sights. If you never plan to use a DC sound suppressor, I suggest the M14 US Coast Guard / Navy Muzzle Brake from SEI with either a USGI/SEI NM font sight or the M14 Tritium Bar Combat Sight from SEI. |
|
Quoted:
Lastly, get the wood stock version, but find a nice USGI synthetic stock with the USGI buttplate to interchange with the wood stock. You can get the synthetic stock painted to match your veg conditions. I am definetely going to get the walnut stock. I plan on also getting the composite stock they offer. I assume the nice smooth stock with the handguard checkering is what they call the composite and the one covered in bedliner is thier fiberglass? My buddy got a composite from them that is realy nice. I will duracoat that one. I plan on mostly keeping the wood stock on the rifle though. Thanks guys for all the help. Does anybody have a pic of a scout with aimpoint and vortex flash hider? |
|
I also put the following on mine.
Tubbs (Superior Shooting Systems) chrome-silicon hammer & recoil springs Sadlak TiN piston and recoil spring guyide Schuster overbored & vented gas plug Smith Enterprise extended bolt release. It runs real smooth & nice. Regarding the FH I find the standard USGI works fine, plus it looks just right. While larger than a micro red dot I run a Comp M2 on mine with no probelms. The microdots will save weight & space. |
Hmmm, it wouldnt let me vote for the Scout and the F-Obama!!! I guess BHObama will not get my vote.
Anyhow, I too voted for the Scout/ Bush rifle. It is the favorite range rifle here at my house, the standards dont get much trigger time anymore.... The 18.5" barrel is just so handy and well balanced. And it is actually more accurate than any of my 22"ers. |
|
It really depends what you want out of it. If you want distance and accuracy then go with the 22. But if your not concerned with +500 meter shooting then go with the 18. I am currently having a LRB M25 built, I went with the 22" Kreiger heavy 1:11 twist because this is going to be a long range gun. This was really hard decision, because I also wanted a bush rifle. My thinking was I'm already building an AR for short distance use, so I will build the M25 for long range use. BUT that will not stop me from building a bush rifle once my two projects are done...
Good luck with your decision and most of all have fun with it. |
Armory Sponsor