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Posted: 6/25/2007 10:06:25 AM EDT
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So I centered my rear sight and proceeded to adjust windage using the front sight only. I have it zeroed now, but the sight itself is almost all the way to the edge of the front block. How normal is that? Second question, with it dead on at 100yrds, the yardage knob is on 8. That doesn't seem correct. Is it as simple as removing the knob and re-installing on 1? This is with SA and RG milsurp ammo. I thought it might be user error, but my dad shoots to the same point of aim as I do, so I think I'm sighting it correctly. He's ex-marine and shot m-14's quite a bit. Thanks J |
My personal rule of thumb is that if the side of the front sight does not extend more than 1/16" beyond the same side of the base, all is within tolerance. YMMV. IMHO, it is cheaper to live with this than replacing components. Again, YMMV. Once you have the mechanical windage zero established, sight in at 25 meters. Once Point Of Aim=Point Of Impact, adjust your elevation (not yardage) knob to "2". Your rifle is now sighted-in and your sights calibrated. It should be very close at any range, but verify and fine-tune at actual range. |
raf is correct , this way you will have a Battle Sight Zero out to about 225-240 centermass hits . My M1A is sighted like this and would not change works great . |
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I just got mine zeroed. I forgot to check where the front sight ended up. The battle sight zero 75yard target didn't work out too well for me. I was below the paper at 200M by a couple clicks. Sure is damn nice now. I hope you get it ironed out. Be sure to take a close look at your rear sight aperture. SA was nice enough to leave a huge piece of drill flashing in the hole and that threw my groups way off on the first day. |
Let's put it this way: Shoot the thing until your POI=POA at 25 M. THEN set elevation knob to "2" You are now very close to a 200 yd zero with the knob at "2". You will also be very close to any other distance to which you set the elevation knob, be it "1" (100yd), or "10" (1000 yd) or any other distance on the knob. Confirm at a known distance to fine-tune. Seems like magic, but it's really just simple ballistics. |
Let's put it this way: Shoot the thing until your POI=POA at 25 M. THEN set elevation knob to "2" You are now very close to a 200 yd zero with the knob at "2". You will also be very close to any other distance to which you set the elevation knob, be it "1" (100yd), or "10" (1000 yd) or any other distance on the knob. Confirm at a known distance to fine-tune. Seems like magic, but it's really just simple ballistics. This is all covered thoroughly in Fred's "Guide To Becoming A Rifleman", available at www.fredsm14stocks.com. Most likely the best money you will ever spend on learning how to shoot. I'm betting even your USMC dad will find a thing or two in it of interest. |
Just so you're clear, the trajectory and point of impact is controlled by the amount of clicks up from bottomed out. The numbers on the elevation drum may or not be properly indexed. That can be fixed though by loosening the screw and rotating numbers until the 2 is aligned with the index. Retighten the screw and verify that the aperature didn't slip on you by bottoming out, count the correct number of clicks up for your 200 yard zero. Your 2 should then align with the index. As a side note, High power shooters who shoot a lot and use their elevation knob a lot, only count clicks and don't worry about the index numbers. Some occasionally even purposefully change the knob index a bit so as to get the knob's tooth to use another section of the serrations on the reciever so as not to wear out the receiver. I indexed the sights on some of my M1's but now I don't usually bother. |
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