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Posted: 1/9/2007 1:28:28 PM EDT
| Say I bought a bbl'd reciever from CMP- what would the estimated parts cost be to build a shootable (and presumably reliable and accurate) garand from that point? I currently have a Collector grade and a formerly woodless (with a new bbl on it) And I want one more (only one more, i keep telling myself) Garand to round out my collection, and this one I want to build. Is there a good complete parts kit out there? |
| It should be reasonably easy to get all the parts you need. The hardest part will be barrelling the reciever and setting headspace. The rest of the rifle is fairly easy to do IF the parts are in spec. I have not built a Garand my self, but I have watched it done. You must catch a video on doing it. There are a few tricks of the trade, and good tools are required. I watched a Garand rebuilt in about two hours time. But the person who did this does this all day long every day...he is a match rifle builder for over 20 years. To be honest with you, it seems like a good hobby/pastime and a skill once learned is very marketable and useful, not only to repair your own rifles, but also to customize. An M-1A is SO similar, once you learn one, you should be able to do both. Hope that helps. |
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If you are starting with a USGI barreled receiver, you may not have to take it to a gunsmith to head space. All you really need is access to some Garand bolts, and a couple of headspace gauges. Gauges can be rented. Just get several bolts, and try one at a time with a GO gauge. If one closes on a GO gauge, then try it on a NO GO guage. If it closes on a GO and doesn't close on a NO GO you are set. If the bolt closes on both GO and NO GO, then try a FIELD. If it doesn't close on a FIELD, then the rifle can be fired, but headspace is getting a little too long and is approaching unsafe. Technically, all you really need is a GO and a FIELD. As long as it closes on a Go and doesn't close on the FIELD you are good to go. Some bolt series have a tendency to run long. That is, the front of the bolt is slightly longer, giving a shorter headspace. I believe the -12, -2, and the 65 series run in this catagory. I picked up a Win Rack Grade with an SA -12 bolt from the CMP in June. I took a trip to Northridge International, and went through their selection of WRA bolts. I managed to find one that wouldn't close on a GO. I had to lap it in. It works just fine. |
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It can get expensive, especially if you're not patient, you can watch ebay and snipe some good things if you know your prices and restrain yourself. My H&R builds are going to end up $700-800, pretty much a 3/4 correct. If you just want to build one with good quality parts on a CMP barreled upper you can cut costs considerably especially if you're not trying to assemble a "correct". If I had it to do over again, I'd just shop for good quality post war parts and be done with it. I did buy my own set of gages from Clymer. Nice people, fast service. |
This is my six-digit Springfield CMP barrelled receiver. I got the parts from a reparked Blue Sky Garand I bought through a local paper a few years back. The stock came from Numrich's. It's not a collector but it is "correct" as far as all the parts being Springfield. Hard to say how much I have in it since I took the parts from a gun I bought for about $500. I do still have the barrelled receiver with "Blue Sky" stamped into the side of the barrel; not really sure what it is worth. Oh, well. I'm happy with what I got!  Barrelled receiver.... $300 parts .......(approx).. $300 stock .....................$100 total: $700 
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