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6/7/2006 6:47:59 PM EDT
United States Rifle, Caliber 7.62x51mm, M14.

The M14 is a .30-caliber, lightweight, select-fire, air-cooled, gas-operated by a short-stroke gas piston battle rifle.  Essentially a progressively developed M1 Garand rifle, the M14 was designed in 1954, and adopted in 1957.  The M14 was in production from 1959 to 1964 and controversially phased out of combat by the M16 during 1966-1968.  There were approximately 1.38 million M14 rifles produced by the United States.




FAQ:

Q: What is the greatest battle rifle ever invented?
A: The US M14.


Q: What is the difference between an M1A and an M14?
A: An M1A is a commercial rifle derived from the M14 made by Springfield Armory, Inc. Military M14s were made by Springfield Armory, TRW, Harrington & Richardson, and Winchester.  Commercial semi-automatic M14-type rifles were made by Springfield Armory, Inc., Armscorp, Federal Ordnance, Fulton Armory, Poly-Tech, Norinco, and LRB arms.


Q: What's the best scope mount for M14?
A: Smith Enterprise Inc Three-point Mount - or - ARMS #18 - or - the Sadlak three-point mount - or - the Brookfield Precision.


Q: What’s the best scope to put on my M14?
A: That depends entirely on what you prefer and what you’re using it for. However, I recommend the Leupold MRT variable for all-around usefulness, durability, quality, and cost-efficiency.


Q: Do Springfield Armory, Inc. scope mounts suck?
A: Yes.


Q: What's the best magazine?
A: The USGI M14 magazines are the all-around best.  Grey magnesium phosphate coating.  The magazine should hold 20 rounds.  According to Different:

                     “USGI magazine contractors included American Pin, Borg-Warner, Check-Mate Industries, an unknown Harrington & Richardson subcontractor, Killeen Machine & Tool, Olin-Mathieson Chemical (Winchester), Springfield Armory, TRW, Union Hardware Company and Westinghouse Electric.  The last government contract for M14 magazines was fulfilled in 1996 by Check-Mate Industries”


Q: How can I tell if I have real USGI magazines as opposed to fake magazines?
A: According to Different:

“The savvy collector can identify genuine USGI and Taiwanese government manufacture M14 magazine bodies.  Examine the spot welds on the front side of a known USGI or Taiwanese twenty round magazine.  Make notes on the size, number, alignment and location of the spot welds.  Note that some KMT marked magazines differ from the more common pattern of USGI magazine body spot welds.  The USGI drawing 7790181 requires twelve evenly spaced spot welds up the center of the front side and one spot weld just to the right of the operating rod spring guide hole as the magazine stands up.  Use this information when examining M14 magazines for sale to discern whether or not a magazine is a commercial reproduction item.”


Q: Why won’t my USGI magazine hold more than 19 rounds?
A: All USGI magazines have a full 20 round capacity, or they are not to spec. So, there are two answers.  Either the magazine spring is upside down, or you got ripped off.  


Q: Who makes the best commercial M14?
A: LRB Arms.  They actually machine the receiver from a steel forging, as opposed to investment casting, like Springfield Armory, Inc. or Fulton Armory.


Q: Is my Springfield Armory, Inc. rifle going to explode, break in half, shoot my dog, steal my wife, and wreck my pickup?
A: No.  Springfield Armory, Inc. has had QC issues for some time now, but they do have a lifetime warranty, and they're forging their bolts, now.  If you have a problem with your Springfield Armory, Inc. rifle, they will fix it.  If you’re really worried about it, get USGI parts, especially the extractor, or buy a LRB.


Q: Does my Springfield Armory, Inc. rifle have a chrome lined bore and chamber?
A: New production Springfield Armory, Inc. M14-type rifles (M1A) have commercial barrels chambered in .308 Winchester without chrome lining.


Q: Where can I get a chrome lined barrel?
A: LRB Arms offers chrome lined barrels in 22 inch and 18 inch.


Q: What are the Chi-Com M14s?
A: Both Norinco and Poly-Tech have made M14-type rifles.  They are not exactly to spec on all parts, but the receivers are forged, and only need to be properly heat treated to be really nice receivers. Some shooters believe that the Chi-Com rifle parts are actually superior to the Springfield Armory, Inc. cast parts, but are still inferior to USGI parts.


Q: Where do I grease my M14?
A: Front of hammer, bolt lugs, inside of receiver heel, inside of operating rod guide, top of rear  of operating rod, bolt roller. Basically, every shiney spot on the rifle, where the finish has worn off on the operating parts. However,  NEVER grease the gas piston. It is designed to operate dry.


Q: Where’s the best place to buy a stock for my rifle?
A: Fred’s M14 Stocks.


Q: What’s the best stock for the M14?
A: USGI synthetics are usually regarded as the best all-around stocks. The only thing they lack is the beauty of wood.  And, unlike the Sage or Vltor stocks, they don’t come with 4,000 rails to mount handgrips and flashlights and lasers, oh my.


Q: What’s the single most important accessory I need to buy for my rifle?
A: A quality shooting sling.  The USGI slings are excellent, especially the nylon ones.


Q: How can I make my M14 look more tactical/evil/badass?
A: Install a SAGE stock.  And/or get the Crazy Horse rifle modification from Smith Enterprise.


Q: What is a Crazy Horse M14?
A: The Crazy Horse M14 Semi Automatic Sniping System is a Smith Enterprise customized and tuned rifle for the 2nd Infantry Division. Improvements include: Summers/Smith Vortec Direct Connect flash suppressor, unitization of gas system, gas lock front sight, and SEI Three-point scope mount.
See: http://www.smithenterprise.com/products02.html


Q: Is it possible to mount a sound suppressor to the muzzle of an M14?
A: Not the USGI flash suppressor, no. You would need to get the Smith Enterprise, Inc. Direct Connect Vortec flash suppressor, and then mount the company’s sound suppressor.


Q: What is the difference between .308 Winchester and 7.62x51mm ammunition?
A: Short answer: Nothing.  Long answer: Everything.  

.308 Winchester is usually hotter, and slightly (5 thousandths of an inch) longer.  The main difference in the actual cases is the leade of the neck. It is safe to fire 7.62x51 in a .308 Win chamber.  It may not be safe to fire .308 Win in a 7.62 chamber.  (This is directly opposite of a.223/5.56.)


Q: Why is the black finish on my Springfield Armory, Inc. synthetic stock flaking off?
A: Because Springfield Armory, Inc. sucks at finishing synthetic stocks.  Strip it, and Krylon it yourself, or send it to Karstens.


Q: What is this hole at the back of my stock?
A: That’s the selector hole.  On a real full-auto M14, that’s where the fun switch goes. You can fill it in with wood filler (on a wood stock), or I use JB Weld on a synthetic stock. Or, you can buy a reproduction fake selector switch from Fulton Armory or Hawk.


Q: How do I refinish my USGI walnut/birch stock?
A: First, you need to clean it.  Napoleon_Tannerite actually put his stock in his washing machine. dishwasher. It worked for him.  I have used engine degreaser and a rag.  All you have to do is get the old grease and grim out of the wood.

Next, you need to prep the wood, by sanding it down to make it smooth with high-grit sandpaper, or heavy steel wool, or both.

Then apply a wood stain of your choosing, either colored or clear.

The last step is optional.  To make it shiny, you need to apply a top coat of lacquer or finish shine.


Q: How do I refinish my USGI synthetic stock?
A: First, you need to clean it.  Degrease the stock; get any markings, paint, or scuffs off.  Remove or tape off the buttplate and sling swivels.

Then apply a base coat of Krylon primer, grey or black, depending on the next color. For a more textured finish, you can use the “orange peel” spray textures available at Home Depot and the like, or use Krylon Non-Slip Coating on top of the base coat.

You need to decide which color Krylon you want to use now. I prefer the “camouflage” colors that Krylon offers, because they are “ultra-flat.”  Colors offered include OD Green, Khaki, Black, whatever you prefer.

Once the base coat is dry, apply three or more light coats of Krylon, allowing each coat to dry completely in between coats.

For a non-reflective top-coat, you can use a clear satin coat, then rub it lightly with steel wool after it has dried.

Feel free to use whatever rattlecan brand you want to.



Q: What if I want a really fancy finish on my synthetic stock?
A: Send it to Karsten, or get yourself a DuraCoat kit from Lauer Custom Weapons.


Q: Which bayonet is supposed to go with the M14?
A: The US M6 bayonet. It fits the US M8A1 sheath, like the M4, M5, and M7 bayonets.




Websites:

www.imageseek.com/m1a
-Different’s M14 Site

www.fredsm14stocks.com
-Fred’s M14 Stocks

www.smithenterprise.com
-Smith Enterprise Inc

www.springfield-armory.com/prod-rifles-m1a.shtml
-Springfield Armory Inc Rifles

www.fultonarmory.com/m14rifles.htm
-Fulton Armory Rifles

www.lrbarms.com/pages/2/index.htm
-LRB Rifles

www.warbirdscustomguns.com
-Warbirds custom guns

www.law483.com
- LAW483 custom M14 stocks

www.imageseek.com/karsten/
-Karsten’s custom gun finishes

www.tanksrifleshop.com/m14.htm
-Tanks Rifle Shop M14s

sparrowhawkm14.bizland.com/
-Hawk’s non-selecting selectors

www.sageinternationalltd.com/si/newprod/newprod.html
-Sage Crane stock chassis

www.armsmounts.com/catalog.php?action=124&item_id=7
-ARMS #18

www.lauerweaponry.com
-Lauer Custom Weaponry offers DuraCoat kits

www.brownells.com
-Offers extensive gun parts

www.leupold.com/home_flash.htm
-Leupold/Stevens Optics





6/7/2006 6:52:41 PM EDT
[#1]
A work in progress...

6/8/2006 6:26:16 AM EDT
[#2]

Quoted:
Q: What is the greatest battle rifle ever invented?
A: The US M14 The T-58 (FAL), but since it was not produced by a USA companey, the military went with another one of the other test rifles, the M-14.



Funny part about all of this is that Beretta with the M-9 opened the doors for a lot of non USA home based companies to supply to the government on large scales.  Although FN did not get the Garand replacement contract, they now dominate the government arms contracts with the Mini (M-249), the Mag (M-240), the Mark 19, and even now have the M-16 production contact.
6/8/2006 9:51:58 AM EDT
[#3]
Wow what won't you do to get you first post stickied?



JR
6/8/2006 12:23:34 PM EDT
[#4]
excellent post
6/8/2006 12:37:36 PM EDT
[#5]
You forgot the mount of which all others owe their existence too....the Brookfield Precision - still the best - yeah I know they're harder n' hens teeth to find - but still the gold standard by which all others are judged.
6/8/2006 1:31:35 PM EDT
[#6]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Q: What is the greatest battle rifle ever invented?
A: The US M14 The T-58 (FAL), but since it was not produced by a USA companey, the military went with another one of the other test rifles, the M-14.



Funny part about all of this is that Beretta with the M-9 opened the doors for a lot of non USA home based companies to supply to the government on large scales.  Although FN did not get the Garand replacement contract, they now dominate the government arms contracts with the Mini (M-249), the Mag (M-240), the Mark 19, and even now have the M-16 production contact.



Welcome to the M1-M1A forum...
6/8/2006 5:40:56 PM EDT
[#7]
I own an M1A but did not read this stupid post because I could not get past the first line.

.......

FAL is the greatest battle rifle of all time.
6/9/2006 5:32:11 AM EDT
[#8]
Krylon paint is crap, use Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch instead!
6/9/2006 8:31:43 AM EDT
[#9]
can we have a M1 FAQ?
6/9/2006 8:50:01 AM EDT
[#10]
BIG AND IMPORTANT!!! READ THIS!!!

The FAQ above incorrectly states that i put my stock in a "washing machine".  I did NOT use a washing machine, i used a dishwasher.  There's a big difference.  A washing machine would have completely immersed the stock in water, and then had the agitator (the tower with paddles in the middle) beat the water.  I have never tried this method, nor would I reccomend it.  The wood is softer and more pliable when wet, and a washing machine agitator *might* cause damage to the stock.  

Use your DISH WASHER MACHINE  Squeeze it in and run it on normal setting.  I don't use the heated dry for fear that the heat may cause undesirable warping of the wood.  Keep an eye on the machine, and when it finishes its last wash cycle, take the stock out, place it on a stable, flat surface and let it air dry.  It should be dry in less than half an hour.  I then use 1000 grit sandpaper and 0000 steel wool to smooth the wood, followed by a few coats of Boiled linseed oil.

I have done my M14 stock and now my CMP Garand stock using this method.  Both have come out looking amazing.








good luck, and again

DO NOT PUT YOUR STOCK IN A WASHING MACHINE!!
if you do, don't say i didnt warn you!
6/9/2006 8:50:05 AM EDT
[#11]
Q: Who makes the best commercial M14?
A: LRB Arms. They actually machine the receiver from a steel forging, as opposed to investment casting, like Springfield Armory, Inc. or Fulton Armory.


A forging doesn't automatically make it the best.
6/9/2006 6:09:30 PM EDT
[#12]
They are not exactly to spec on all parts, but the receivers are forged, and only need to be properly heat treated to be really nice receivers


HUH?  Heat treated?  I'm not sure if I'm with you on this one.
6/9/2006 6:14:02 PM EDT
[#13]
tagola
6/10/2006 3:21:19 AM EDT
[#14]
Exactly what are you trying to do...kill all the posts in the M1 & M1A forum?
 Seriously...nice job   Hmmm now we need to add cheekpieces
Karsten  HD Kydex and yes you must drill holes in your stock
www.imageseek.com/karsten/
Go to Products for Sale
Smith Enterprise Strap On in green or black nylon
www.smithenterprise.com/products03.html
Eagle Industries SHOOTER'S STOCK PACK-RIFLE, OLIVE DRAB (350001) Black is (350000)
www.eagleindustries.com/MainProd.asp?scv=0 go to Accessories -> Weapon
You can make it taller by slipping a dowel inbetween the comb and the pouch
BlackHawk in Green or Black
www.blackhawk.com/product_detail.asp?product_id=1983&d=
Fulton Armory sells a traditional leather, strap on cheek piece.  If you can find it on their website you can buy it www.fulton-armory.com/

I'm sure I left out a few but it's a good start.

6/10/2006 11:31:23 AM EDT
[#15]
Another good resource:   New to M14's: What to do/not do?

A particularly informative post among many:


duckbuck
R T Alpha
Senior Moderator/Staff
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Virginia
Posts: 3,069

Here's some stuff I learned the "hard way" or from my FL buds:

1. Buy the tools you need now, or as you go and you'll be money ahead in the long run. This Basic Tools link might help get you started.

2. Buy both the Duff and Kuhnhausen books - what one doesn't explain in detail, the other does. This is especailly important when you finally get around to making some accuracy mods.

3. According to the pros and advanced shooters here, one of the single most significant accuracy mods (aside from a new barrel) is shimning or unitizing the gas system. You can buy the shims from a variety of places. I got mine from Fulton Armory, but you can get them from several other folks as well.

4. Shimming the gas cylinder is a do-it-yourself project - unitizing the gas cylinder isn't. That's why we have the pros like Hueygunner(send him an pm and he'll get back to you), Warbird , and Ted Brown . Very positive feedback from members using their services.

Here is my experience with Shimming the gas cylinder.

5. Get some spare parts, starting with a USGI extractor kit. I bought the complete kit containing the extractor, spring and plunger cuz you never know where those little dudes are gonna end up if you don't buy an M1/M1A bolt assembly tool.

6. I keep a spare bolt rebuild kit around, just in case. It always easier and a whole lot quicker to have parts on hand and than having to wait for them to be shipped AFTER you need them. I still don't need it - but I've got it!

BTW - buy the bolt roller greaser when you buy your spare parts.

7. Next on the list for me was a Badger op rod spring guide. The difference in the cycling of the bolt is amazing.

8. The next major mod a lot of us do is either purchase a NM trigger group or send our trigger group off to Tim or Ted and have them do it - don't try this yourself unless you've had armorer training - it ain't worth the risk. Check the PX frequently for deals on trigger groups.

9. If you are going to disassemble your gas system for shimming or to have it unitized, do yourself a favor and buy a couple of spare castle nuts and several of those pesky little set screws. BTW - don't over-tighten the castle nut (Duff and Kuhnhausen both mention this, IIRC) or it will affect accuracy - Boy, do I know this first-hand.

10. Stocks, Stocks, Stocks!!! A major "dresser-upper" for most of us. Unless you like the stock that came with your rifle, you'll probably want a new one or two to play around with. There are so many variables here, just post a question in the appropriate forum and we'll get back at ya - ASAP.

I got lucky and got a "real-deal" Whamo-Camo Renegade for mine. I hear Karsten does some pretty fine work, also.

11. Scopes and mounts. Same as stocks. This is my personal opinion, from my own experience, so please take it for what it's worth.

You will need a good, steel mount and a set of good rings for your M1A. If you decide to mount a 1" tube, you'll also need some spacers (and some lapping tools,etc). Check out the back threads in the Accessories forum (It's always a great idea to "meander" around the old threads - what a great store house of info.)

I bought an ARMS #18 mount (installed it myself with "No Problemo's - except I lost the instructions and one of the excellent folks here sent me a copy - Thanks, TomO!!! )

I decided on the ARMS #22M QD 30mm rings, which allow the mounting of the scope and I'm still able to use my irons. YMMV.

I tried differnent scopes - yep, I had to buy the 1" spacers, before I decided on a 16X Super Sniper from SWFA (16X??? All Right, I admit it - I'm old). QD rings allow me to remount the scope with no "drift".

You better figure on getting some type of cheek piece (either adjustable or strap-on) for scope work.

12. Ammo - buy some small lots of various kinds of Milsurp and see which type of ammo YOUR rifle likes best. Mine has a decided preference for Aussie, but that doesn't mean your rifle will do the same. When you find some that works, hit the Ammo Bunker and click on the sticky by sv sniper or visit the Rifle Company link by XIV Corps for the best deals in case lots of ammo. Buy as much as you can...

Nope - I don't reload and as long as milsurp is still relatively inexpensive, I see no need to attempt using ammo that will automatically void my SA warranty if something goes wrong. Besides that, I know that my SA Loaded Standard is a clone of the M14 Battle Rifle and not a target piece.

On the other hand, I don't shoot competition - however the paper on the target hangers and the rocks in the vertical backstop at my range are in definite jeopardy!!!

At the Range -

Actually, before you hit the range the first time make sure your rifle is clean and well greased. A significant number of reported problems with new rifles come from not being properly lubed the first time out.

Make sure everything is clean and tight before you fire the rifle.

It's easiest for me to lock the bolt open, insert the mag and rock it back to lock it in place. Then I release the bolt and let the first round strip out of the mag into the chamber. Be sure to check the safety - I let a friend shoot my rifle(newbie to M14 rifles) and he darn near tried to break the trigger off pulling on the thing trying to make the rifle go bang - he had the safety on.

Remember a good crisp trigger pull - no "milking" like you would with a bench rifle.

Speaking of benches - I bought a shooting mat so I can shoot prone (with and without a bi-pod). I also shoot sitting, and off-hand. Don't use the bench all the time - these are battle rifles - it's more satisfying and fun to shoot them the way they were intended to be used.

Unless you're saving them for some reason, try out all of your mags for functioning before you lock them up in the safe.

If you do use the bench for sighting, groups, etc. I recommend using your range bag rather than a bipod or BR shooting stand. Make sure that no part of your gas system or barrel is resting on anything. Bipods make your rifle "bounce" when used on a hard bench.

IMHO, you don't need to go through any extensive "break-in" with a non-match barrel. Just clean it up and shoot the darn thing.

Most important - have fun!!!

Here are a few handy links from your friends here on the FL:

General Cleaning of the M14/M1A

How to remove stubborn gas plugs

Gas cylinder drill sizes for cleaning the gas cylinder

Grease I use Tetra or USGI grease pots or Lubriplate, in that order

Might do some cruising through the old posts and add some more info later, but this ought to get us started.

db



.
6/24/2006 8:12:22 PM EDT
[#16]
Tagged for my newfound interest in an M14 M1A.
6/24/2006 9:32:11 PM EDT
[#17]
Dang. the FAL guys here already? And no the FAL wasn't the greatest battle rifle ever produced. I don't care how many sh*tty countries picked it up [Sits back to enjoy the flames]
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