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Posted: 11/21/2005 7:39:27 PM EDT
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Im headed to the holy grail of Garand storage and sales, and I have limited info. Please tell me, if you had piles of Garands to go thru, what you would look for & at, other than ME & TE, on any Garand you were thinking of buying. Thanks!  And you know I will be back with pics of the piles and the picks!!!!  |
The one with the nicest stock of course!!!!!! ha ha ha ha . I've heard they got cleaning kits there so you can see what kind of bore it has. And they'll let you use the muzzle and chamber gauge. Just look for the lowest numbers in those with a nice shiny bore, and tiiiiiiiiiiight, stock lock up. Which I don't think they'll let you check that, but I could be wrong. You could check the gas cylinder to see if it's tight, but I don't know if any of them are when they're surplus like that. Good luck and have fun. |
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when i sifted thru the Danish less wood back in August, I looked for a usgi barrel with good #'s, (i didn't want a VAR, but there wasn't many of those out at the time) and then looked at the finish on the gas cyl and oprod, (both had very little wear to the finish) when I had the chance to gauge it later, the op rod gas piston and cyl gauged like new. i was fortunate to have a nice GI stock at home, and the gun shoots great with the Greek .06 just remember the small parts can be replaced very easily, and you may want to replace the springs anyway,, if you can take a pair or 2 of latex gloves, and a shop rag or too,, those guns are all very greasy |
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So TE & ME & shiny bore..........check This is starting to sound a lot easier than I had thought. 
I think this may end up being great advice I would have never thought of. |
I'd definitely look for nice wood, low MW and TE, and as many matching parts as possible, OR, for a nice Garand that has a SA rear sight, since my SA that I have at home really only needs a SA rear sight to be nearly 100% SA. If this is your first Garand, just get the one with the lowest MW/TE with the nicest stock that calls to you  .Otherwise lockbar style rear sights are always good  .Edit: Yes, a flashlight is a must! And the latex gloves are a good idea, along with a shop towel. Ooo, don't forget to look for some nice strong cartouches on the stock. |
ME= Muzzle Erosion TE = Throat Erosion These are general idicators of barrel wear. You need gages to check them. I think CMP may allow you to use the ones they have. You can also buy them at Brownell's....I think. Or maybe it was Fulton Armory that I got mine at....I forget |
IMHO, if you are going to the CMP (and it's your first time) you can't go wrong with having one of the employees help you pick one out. Just tell them what you are looking for (collector, shooter, etc). I had Peewee pick out my first two (meant to get one, but you know how that goes). Left behind a nice rack grade Winchester back in '03 that I kick myself about every time I think about it. 
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Thanks, I'm familiar with both muzzle and throat erosion, I just didn't catch the abbreviations. |
I had to add this IM I got today......
THANKS A ZILLION TO THE SENDER!!!!
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diddo what everybody has said so far and to check the gas cylinder jus hold the rifle by the stock not the hand gaurds and try and wiggle it side to side if it moves you will lose about .5-1.5 moa out of it, but it is an easy fix. look for matching manufacture parts and if you have one handy a serial # guide to see what year the reciever was made, then try to to find a matching brl date. My H+R is a cmp gun and it was all correct with a beat to hell stock (typical cmp) fortunately I knew where an H+R stock was for a reasonable price. another bonus the rest of the gun was all H+R when I got it ...hell you saw it at the last LCR Cav. btw how the carbine treating ya?
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