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Posted: 5/1/2016 1:53:44 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
My apologies. I had a ton of questions of form 1 cans. Googled it but couldnt find anything. I'll be more careful next time. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Originally Posted By Shawnson:
Originally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Forgive my n00biness. But you can efile a form 1 for a suppressor? Is there a guide anywhere I could find? Thanks No offense dude but... Seriously? You asked that question in a 118 page thread about nothing but building form 1 suppressors. Yes you can E File for a form 1 can. There is a step by step visual guide stickied to the top of this sub form. Or you could google e file visual guide. Plenty of people here willing to help but you have to take a little initiative. My apologies. I had a ton of questions of form 1 cans. Googled it but couldnt find anything. I'll be more careful next time. No reason to be sorry. I was really just giving ya shit. There is a ton of information here and over on the form 1 forum. Read, learn and ask questions. Your first post was just a bit comical. No hard feeling. |
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Posted: 5/1/2016 11:01:14 AM EDT
[#2]
Page numbering bump.
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Posted: 5/1/2016 11:15:24 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
My apologies. I had a ton of questions of form 1 cans. Googled it but couldnt find anything. I'll be more careful next time. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Originally Posted By Shawnson:
Originally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Forgive my n00biness. But you can efile a form 1 for a suppressor? Is there a guide anywhere I could find? Thanks No offense dude but... Seriously? You asked that question in a 118 page thread about nothing but building form 1 suppressors. Yes you can E File for a form 1 can. There is a step by step visual guide stickied to the top of this sub form. Or you could google e file visual guide. Plenty of people here willing to help but you have to take a little initiative. My apologies. I had a ton of questions of form 1 cans. Googled it but couldnt find anything. I'll be more careful next time. A LOT of people don't know you can legally register ANY NFA weapon. And what you can and can't do with eForms is even more mysterious. Google is often your best friend in this sort of thing, but obviously not in this case, at least for the way you searched; sometimes it's very important to get just the right search terms. I would not have known how to go about it without asking here, but I asked for details in the eFile guide thread. This is yet another habit-forming hobby. Welcome to yet another sickness! 
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Posted: 5/1/2016 2:37:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Dolor]
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
A LOT of people don't know you can legally register ANY NFA weapon. And what you can and can't do with eForms is even more mysterious. Google is often your best friend in this sort of thing, but obviously not in this case, at least for the way you searched; sometimes it's very important to get just the right search terms. I would not have known how to go about it without asking here, but I asked for details in the eFile guide thread. This is yet another habit-forming hobby. Welcome to yet another sickness! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Originally Posted By Shawnson:
Originally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Forgive my n00biness. But you can efile a form 1 for a suppressor? Is there a guide anywhere I could find? Thanks No offense dude but... Seriously? You asked that question in a 118 page thread about nothing but building form 1 suppressors. Yes you can E File for a form 1 can. There is a step by step visual guide stickied to the top of this sub form. Or you could google e file visual guide. Plenty of people here willing to help but you have to take a little initiative. My apologies. I had a ton of questions of form 1 cans. Googled it but couldnt find anything. I'll be more careful next time. A LOT of people don't know you can legally register ANY NFA weapon. And what you can and can't do with eForms is even more mysterious. Google is often your best friend in this sort of thing, but obviously not in this case, at least for the way you searched; sometimes it's very important to get just the right search terms. I would not have known how to go about it without asking here, but I asked for details in the eFile guide thread. This is yet another habit-forming hobby. Welcome to yet another sickness! Submitted my first stamp. I have plans for about 3 more too. Thanks guys   
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Posted: 5/1/2016 4:17:12 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Submitted my first stamp. I have plans for about 3 more too. Thanks guys
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Originally Posted By Shawnson:
Originally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Forgive my n00biness. But you can efile a form 1 for a suppressor? Is there a guide anywhere I could find? Thanks No offense dude but... Seriously? You asked that question in a 118 page thread about nothing but building form 1 suppressors. Yes you can E File for a form 1 can. There is a step by step visual guide stickied to the top of this sub form. Or you could google e file visual guide. Plenty of people here willing to help but you have to take a little initiative. My apologies. I had a ton of questions of form 1 cans. Googled it but couldnt find anything. I'll be more careful next time. A LOT of people don't know you can legally register ANY NFA weapon. And what you can and can't do with eForms is even more mysterious. Google is often your best friend in this sort of thing, but obviously not in this case, at least for the way you searched; sometimes it's very important to get just the right search terms. I would not have known how to go about it without asking here, but I asked for details in the eFile guide thread. This is yet another habit-forming hobby. Welcome to yet another sickness! Submitted my first stamp. I have plans for about 3 more too. Thanks guys
I started with 1 last year. I just got a batch of 4 approved on Monday. Welcome to the club. |
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Posted: 5/1/2016 7:23:40 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Shawnson:
I started with 1 last year. I just got a batch of 4 approved on Monday. Welcome to the club. Thanks! I'm looking forward to this. I'm planning to use a Ti tube and caps. Since it will be mainly a pistol can I'm thinking to use a "B" sized tube and stuff it full formed freeze plugs. However it would also be cool to be able to use this as a rifle can too. Similar to the SiCo Hybrid. I'm not sure what material would make the best baffles though, or if it is even at all possible. Thoughts? |
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Posted: 5/1/2016 7:49:54 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Dolor]
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Thanks! I'm looking forward to this. I'm planning to use a Ti tube and caps. Since it will be mainly a pistol can I'm thinking to use a "B" sized tube and stuff it full formed freeze plugs. However it would also be cool to be able to use this as a rifle can too. Similar to the SiCo Hybrid. I'm not sure what material would make the best baffles though, or if it is even at all possible. Thoughts? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Originally Posted By Shawnson:
I started with 1 last year. I just got a batch of 4 approved on Monday. Welcome to the club. Thanks! I'm looking forward to this. I'm planning to use a Ti tube and caps. Since it will be mainly a pistol can I'm thinking to use a "B" sized tube and stuff it full formed freeze plugs. However it would also be cool to be able to use this as a rifle can too. Similar to the SiCo Hybrid. I'm not sure what material would make the best baffles though, or if it is even at all possible. Thoughts? Or possibly even do the first bit titanium cones or 17-4 and the rest would be stuff full of freeze plugs. |
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Posted: 5/1/2016 8:05:27 PM EDT
[#8]
The B tube is heavy with limited volume. It's pretty much the worst tube available for a suppressor. If you're going to get a cone or two, might as well just get all cones.
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Posted: 5/1/2016 8:11:42 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JoshAston:
The B tube is heavy with limited volume. It's pretty much the worst tube available for a suppressor. If you're going to get a cone or two, might as well just get all cones. Interesting, why is this? Also would a "D" tube be better? |
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Posted: 5/1/2016 8:22:18 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Interesting, why is this? Also would a "D" tube be better? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HALFNATTYGAINZ:
Originally Posted By JoshAston:
The B tube is heavy with limited volume. It's pretty much the worst tube available for a suppressor. If you're going to get a cone or two, might as well just get all cones. Interesting, why is this? Also would a "D" tube be better? Higher quality, lasts longer than freeze plugs, lighter, and subjectively works better. No, not really. It will give you more volume, but it's still unnecessarily thick and heavy. And it's too thick to work with suppressor sights. You can get the B tube turned down pretty aggressively, about 1.26" or so and that will lose a lot of weight. You won't gain any volume, but at least you won't have a pistol can that weighs as much as most commercial rifle cans. There are a few other options for ready made stuff, or you can buy raw materials from titanium Joe and onlinemetals and have a local machine shop make you stuff that will compare with commercial cans. |
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Posted: 5/16/2016 5:00:01 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ATC]
[#11]
I haven't kept up with this thread since it was in the teen pages. I ordered everything, but let it sit since then. I just got around to getting back to working on it....so forgive me if this has been posted earlier:
If you need spacer material (tube), onlinemetals.com has 1.375x0.058 aluminum tube (6061-T6) on sale (overstock) for $14.87 for 4 feet of it. 4 feet should build many, many cans... Tube ETA: Code "SDD6B" knocks $5 off shipping Coke "BUYNOW" knocks 5% off your order They can not be combined. |
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Posted: 5/18/2016 12:07:08 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dirtyone04]
[#12]
Got my stamp and stuff all together, but..............
Can is a 9" SDTA Ti with steel thread and Aluminum end cap. Filled with 11 formed FP's, and all holes drilled on press to correct size for .308 (over sized, of course, but forget bit size at the moment.) Barrel is 8" Ballistic Advantage Hanson, with SDTA brake using Griffin shims. Ammo is hand loaded 150gr Hornady Match using Lil' Gun Powder and new brass. All shots fired indoors at 25 yards, off hand with PA Advanced Micro Dot. Dot was on tight, as per spec. This photo shows a 5 shot group without can (L) and 5 shot group with can (R) (circled in red) We are talking about 6" drop and 6" right shift. No baffle or end cap strikes, 
Next, Using same can, and attached to a BCM 14.5" upper with pinned SDTA break and Griffin Shims: Hand loaded 55 gr Hornady FMJBT with Tac Powder. 5 shot without can, 5 shot w/ can and 15 shots w/ can. 
Sup with this thing? |
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Posted: 5/18/2016 1:51:35 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dirtyone04:
Got my stamp and stuff all together, but.............. Can is a 9" SDTA Ti with steel thread and Aluminum end cap. Filled with 11 formed FP's, and all holes drilled on press to correct size for .308 (over sized, of course, but forget bit size at the moment.) Barrel is 8" Ballistic Advantage Hanson, with SDTA brake using Griffin shims. Ammo is hand loaded 150gr Hornady Match using Lil' Gun Powder and new brass. All shots fired indoors at 25 yards, off hand with PA Advanced Micro Dot. Dot was on tight, as per spec. This photo shows a 5 shot group without can (L) and 5 shot group with can (R) (circled in red) We are talking about 6" drop and 6" right shift. No baffle or end cap strikes, http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk161/Richard_Pesce/What%20happened_zpsb3oyib42.jpg Next, Using same can, and attached to a BCM 14.5" upper with pinned SDTA break and Griffin Shims: Hand loaded 55 gr Hornady FMJBT with Tac Powder. 5 shot without can, 5 shot w/ can and 15 shots w/ can. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk161/Richard_Pesce/IMG_0004_zpsbmcsvvkr.jpg Sup with this thing? You really need to shoot via a rest to get a tight group to start. I would look down the bore to eyeball alignment. An alignment rod would be better. Something is very wrong to have a shift like that at 25 yards. |
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Posted: 5/18/2016 1:58:45 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By benzo:
You really need to shoot via a rest to get a tight group to start. I would look down the bore to eyeball alignment. An alignment rod would be better. Something is very wrong to have a shift like that at 25 yards. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By benzo:
Originally Posted By dirtyone04:
Got my stamp and stuff all together, but.............. Can is a 9" SDTA Ti with steel thread and Aluminum end cap. Filled with 11 formed FP's, and all holes drilled on press to correct size for .308 (over sized, of course, but forget bit size at the moment.) Barrel is 8" Ballistic Advantage Hanson, with SDTA brake using Griffin shims. Ammo is hand loaded 150gr Hornady Match using Lil' Gun Powder and new brass. All shots fired indoors at 25 yards, off hand with PA Advanced Micro Dot. Dot was on tight, as per spec. This photo shows a 5 shot group without can (L) and 5 shot group with can (R) (circled in red) We are talking about 6" drop and 6" right shift. No baffle or end cap strikes, http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk161/Richard_Pesce/What%20happened_zpsb3oyib42.jpg Next, Using same can, and attached to a BCM 14.5" upper with pinned SDTA break and Griffin Shims: Hand loaded 55 gr Hornady FMJBT with Tac Powder. 5 shot without can, 5 shot w/ can and 15 shots w/ can. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk161/Richard_Pesce/IMG_0004_zpsbmcsvvkr.jpg Sup with this thing? You really need to shoot via a rest to get a tight group to start. I would look down the bore to eyeball alignment. An alignment rod would be better. Something is very wrong to have a shift like that at 25 yards. I have a rod that I made to check alignment. It's not specifically made to to the barrel, but close. It makes no contact with the end cap, but close at one point. |
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Posted: 5/18/2016 3:19:28 PM EDT
[#15]
Quick question: What should I put down for the overall length of my suppressor with
* SDTA 7.5" D-sized carbon steel tube * Carbon steel endcap * Ti thread protector Will I be safe to submit my form 1 with an OAL of 8"? |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/18/2016 3:50:39 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Zhukov:
Quick question: What should I put down for the overall length of my suppressor with * SDTA 7.5" D-sized carbon steel tube * Carbon steel endcap * Ti thread protector Will I be safe to submit my form 1 with an OAL of 8"? I'd go with 8.125-8.25" my SDTA 7.6 Ti is 8.1 |
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Posted: 5/18/2016 4:18:58 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Zhukov:
Quick question: What should I put down for the overall length of my suppressor with * SDTA 7.5" D-sized carbon steel tube * Carbon steel endcap * Ti thread protector Will I be safe to submit my form 1 with an OAL of 8"? As for OAL my suggestion is to build the can as you want it built and what ever the OAL ends up being is where it ends up. Just send in an amendment to your form once you are done building. The ATF has made it clear that the OAL on the original form is a best estimation and the build can end up longer as long as you notify them when it is done. Once it is built it can never go longer but can go shorter if required for repairs. |
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Posted: 5/18/2016 6:53:08 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dirtyone04:
I have a rod that I made to check alignment. It's not specifically made to to the barrel, but close. It makes no contact with the end cap, but close at one point. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dirtyone04:
Originally Posted By benzo:
Originally Posted By dirtyone04:
Got my stamp and stuff all together, but.............. Can is a 9" SDTA Ti with steel thread and Aluminum end cap. Filled with 11 formed FP's, and all holes drilled on press to correct size for .308 (over sized, of course, but forget bit size at the moment.) Barrel is 8" Ballistic Advantage Hanson, with SDTA brake using Griffin shims. Ammo is hand loaded 150gr Hornady Match using Lil' Gun Powder and new brass. All shots fired indoors at 25 yards, off hand with PA Advanced Micro Dot. Dot was on tight, as per spec. This photo shows a 5 shot group without can (L) and 5 shot group with can (R) (circled in red) We are talking about 6" drop and 6" right shift. No baffle or end cap strikes, http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk161/Richard_Pesce/What%20happened_zpsb3oyib42.jpg Next, Using same can, and attached to a BCM 14.5" upper with pinned SDTA break and Griffin Shims: Hand loaded 55 gr Hornady FMJBT with Tac Powder. 5 shot without can, 5 shot w/ can and 15 shots w/ can. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk161/Richard_Pesce/IMG_0004_zpsbmcsvvkr.jpg Sup with this thing? You really need to shoot via a rest to get a tight group to start. I would look down the bore to eyeball alignment. An alignment rod would be better. Something is very wrong to have a shift like that at 25 yards. I have a rod that I made to check alignment. It's not specifically made to to the barrel, but close. It makes no contact with the end cap, but close at one point. If it is close at one point, then that would be whats causing the poi shift. Need to figure out what it is thats causing the rod to get close to the end cap. |
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Posted: 6/8/2016 8:39:30 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Lay:
If it is close at one point, then that would be whats causing the poi shift. Need to figure out what it is thats causing the rod to get close to the end cap. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Lay:
Originally Posted By dirtyone04:
Originally Posted By benzo:
Originally Posted By dirtyone04:
Got my stamp and stuff all together, but.............. Can is a 9" SDTA Ti with steel thread and Aluminum end cap. Filled with 11 formed FP's, and all holes drilled on press to correct size for .308 (over sized, of course, but forget bit size at the moment.) Barrel is 8" Ballistic Advantage Hanson, with SDTA brake using Griffin shims. Ammo is hand loaded 150gr Hornady Match using Lil' Gun Powder and new brass. All shots fired indoors at 25 yards, off hand with PA Advanced Micro Dot. Dot was on tight, as per spec. This photo shows a 5 shot group without can (L) and 5 shot group with can (R) (circled in red) We are talking about 6" drop and 6" right shift. No baffle or end cap strikes, http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk161/Richard_Pesce/What%20happened_zpsb3oyib42.jpg Next, Using same can, and attached to a BCM 14.5" upper with pinned SDTA break and Griffin Shims: Hand loaded 55 gr Hornady FMJBT with Tac Powder. 5 shot without can, 5 shot w/ can and 15 shots w/ can. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk161/Richard_Pesce/IMG_0004_zpsbmcsvvkr.jpg Sup with this thing? You really need to shoot via a rest to get a tight group to start. I would look down the bore to eyeball alignment. An alignment rod would be better. Something is very wrong to have a shift like that at 25 yards. I have a rod that I made to check alignment. It's not specifically made to to the barrel, but close. It makes no contact with the end cap, but close at one point. If it is close at one point, then that would be whats causing the poi shift. Need to figure out what it is thats causing the rod to get close to the end cap. Just for goofs, I removed the shim and threaded the break directly to the barrel threads and snugged it down. This seems to have aligned it up correctly. However, having a child and spring clean-up around the yard has limited my ability to assess accuracy. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 6/16/2016 9:19:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Leg-Shot]
[#20]
My first suppressor build was primarily for my SBR AR-10 with 10.5" BBl (quite impressed, totally hearing safe), and was done with freeze plugs coned to 60 degrees & using a 9.5" SDTA tube.
I'm still thinking of building dedicated suppressors for both my upcoming 300 BLK and 5.56 SBR builds (300 will have an 11.5" barrel, haven't decided between 10.5 or 11.5 for the 556: all input will be considered and greatly appreciated) I'd like to get your suggestions on what length Ti tube to use for the 300 (most likely still going to go with the 60 degree coned freeze plugs for this and the 5.56) as well as for what material & length for the 5.56. Keep in mind, I'd like to make them as quiet as possible, yet minimize on the weight and length (for the 300, I'm thinking of doing a FF quad rail the entire length of the barrel & suppressor, if there's even one that is long enough) I'm assuming that due to pressures, I'll NOT want to use "c" size tubes with either of these ty in advance Jeffro additionally, when I did my 308 build, I used the "odd size" metric drill (don't quote me, but I believe it was along the lines of a 9mm: but that could be a bad memory chip on my part): with center drilling & then coning, is that basically what I'll have to deal with for the 5.56? any simpler way to get it done & still stay in the neighborhood of a .24 hole? |
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Posted: 6/17/2016 12:57:41 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Leg-Shot:
...haven't decided between 1.5 or 11.5 for the 556: all input will be considered and greatly appreciated I know which one of those I'm hoping to see!! 
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FL, USA
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Posted: 6/17/2016 1:05:37 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ThePitt]
[#22]
My 300blk's POI shift is similar to that with a SiCo Omega. I just sighted it for suppressed shooting only. I dont think I've ever shot it unsuppressed except during testing anyway. My 556 POI shift is negligible enough for me. I think its got something to do with the bullets velocity because 300blk subs were a lot worse then 300blk supers.
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dirtyone04:
Got my stamp and stuff all together, but.............. Can is a 9" SDTA Ti with steel thread and Aluminum end cap. Filled with 11 formed FP's, and all holes drilled on press to correct size for .308 (over sized, of course, but forget bit size at the moment.) Barrel is 8" Ballistic Advantage Hanson, with SDTA brake using Griffin shims. Ammo is hand loaded 150gr Hornady Match using Lil' Gun Powder and new brass. All shots fired indoors at 25 yards, off hand with PA Advanced Micro Dot. Dot was on tight, as per spec. This photo shows a 5 shot group without can (L) and 5 shot group with can (R) (circled in red) We are talking about 6" drop and 6" right shift. No baffle or end cap strikes, http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk161/Richard_Pesce/What%20happened_zpsb3oyib42.jpg Next, Using same can, and attached to a BCM 14.5" upper with pinned SDTA break and Griffin Shims: Hand loaded 55 gr Hornady FMJBT with Tac Powder. 5 shot without can, 5 shot w/ can and 15 shots w/ can. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk161/Richard_Pesce/IMG_0004_zpsbmcsvvkr.jpg Sup with this thing? |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 6/17/2016 1:55:38 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BigWaylon:
I know which one of those I'm hoping to see!! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BigWaylon:
Originally Posted By Leg-Shot:
...haven't decided between 1.5 or 11.5 for the 556: all input will be considered and greatly appreciated I know which one of those I'm hoping to see!! 
proof reading is your friend: read what I mean, not what I write...obviously, it was meant to be 10.5, NOT 1.5 |
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Posted: 6/25/2016 6:02:14 PM EDT
[#24]
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Posted: 7/6/2016 10:46:51 PM EDT
[#25]
Finally got to shoot my F1 can somewhere other than a public range, so I could try it without ear pro to see how it really sounds. With CCI standard velocity and a .22 kit, my AR sounds like a pellet gun. 5.56 sounds like unsuppressed .22. Very pleased with the results - while I'm sure it's not technically hearing-safe, it's comfortable enough.
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Posted: 9/12/2016 2:44:55 PM EDT
[#26]
So I've been thinking (usually doesn't work out well) and reading (completely overwhelmed)...
How easy (if it's possible) would it be to build a Form 1 suppressor from parts you could buy at Home Depot or the local auto parts store? No online orders, just walk in and walk out. I would guess that you could come up with a way to build the ugliest, heaviest rimfire can ever made, but could you cobble together something that handles 5.56 or .308? Just to start with I'm having trouble imagining a simple way to thread onto a barrel, and finding a tube that could handle the centerfire pressure. |
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Posted: 9/12/2016 2:47:47 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By flcroc: So I've been thinking (usually doesn't work out well) and reading (completely overwhelmed)... How easy (if it's possible) would it be to build a Form 1 suppressor from parts you could buy at Home Depot or the local auto parts store? No online orders, just walk in and walk out. I would guess that you could come up with a way to build the ugliest, heaviest rimfire can ever made, but could you cobble together something that handles 5.56 or .308? Just to start with I'm having trouble imagining a simple way to thread onto a barrel, and finding a tube that could handle the centerfire pressure. |
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Posted: 9/13/2016 8:59:36 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JoshAston:
You could do it. The biggest problem would be finding a way to mount it to the barrel, everything else is easy enough although it would be extremely utilitarian. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JoshAston:
Originally Posted By flcroc:
So I've been thinking (usually doesn't work out well) and reading (completely overwhelmed)... How easy (if it's possible) would it be to build a Form 1 suppressor from parts you could buy at Home Depot or the local auto parts store? No online orders, just walk in and walk out. I would guess that you could come up with a way to build the ugliest, heaviest rimfire can ever made, but could you cobble together something that handles 5.56 or .308? Just to start with I'm having trouble imagining a simple way to thread onto a barrel, and finding a tube that could handle the centerfire pressure. I think I could come up with a way to mount it using a flash hider, but you're being nice about it looking "utilitarian". |
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Posted: 11/3/2016 9:27:31 PM EDT
[#29]
bump for knowledge
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VA, USA
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Posted: 11/15/2016 4:48:04 PM EDT
[#30]
Are there any NATO/A2 FH adapters?
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Posted: 11/15/2016 6:12:30 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By garn: Are there any NATO/A2 FH adapters? |
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Posted: 2/16/2017 12:01:08 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Slimjim]
[#32]
Bump to save from archives. Last night I sprayed my baffles with grill paint and baked them to be more resistant to gunpowder residue.
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Posted: 2/16/2017 2:10:25 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Slimjim:
Bump to save from archives. Last night I sprayed my baffles with grill paint and baked them to be more resistant to gunpowder residue. Good bump! If we are lucky enough to get HPA passed this will be a hot thread. |
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Posted: 2/21/2017 11:08:56 PM EDT
[#34]
Can someone update me as to a couple of good sources for a vsr for the d cell sdtac tube? Need one for the first baffle/blast chamber.
Also is everyone still in agreement that it is OK to engrave the end cap? I am having trouble sourcing someone who can engrave my titanium tube. |
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Posted: 2/22/2017 8:25:45 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SilverBearX:
Also is everyone still in agreement that it is OK to engrave the end cap? I am having trouble sourcing someone who can engrave my titanium tube. Still perfectly legal to engrave the end cap (or threaded adapter). THSF can engrave whatever you have. |
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Posted: 4/12/2017 10:25:34 AM EDT
[#36]
Adding to reply list to find easier.
Am on page 11 of 119 now.
Saw the recommended Form 1 forum and registered there now. Scheduled an extra day on my 2nd job to pay for the tax stamp. Guess this is the theme song for this thread. 
 Disturbed - down with the sickness |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 4/15/2017 1:27:02 PM EDT
[#37]
So I've got my tubes and measured them.
What should be the clearance between the tube ID and the freeze plug/VSR OD? My .22 aluminum tube measures 26.4mm (1.039”) ID. My .30 titanium tube measures 34.44 mm (1.356”) ID. I'd think you wouldn't want them to be loose in there because they could shift and cause a baffle strike. But you don't want them so tight you can't get them out, either. |
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Posted: 4/23/2017 8:41:05 PM EDT
[#38]
What's your guys' opinion on aluminum cups vs formed freeze plugs as far as performance goes?
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Posted: 4/23/2017 8:57:32 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Zhukov:
Quick question: What should I put down for the overall length of my suppressor with * SDTA 7.5" D-sized carbon steel tube * Carbon steel endcap * Ti thread protector Will I be safe to submit my form 1 with an OAL of 8"? |
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Posted: 4/24/2017 9:49:08 AM EDT
[Last Edit: BGENE]
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rem700PSS: What's your guys' opinion on aluminum cups vs formed freeze plugs as far as performance goes? NVM |
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Posted: 6/14/2017 4:54:38 PM EDT
[#41]
.
still alive |
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Posted: 6/28/2017 8:50:48 AM EDT
[#42]
Form 1 was approved now I need components. My first two I used SD tactical but they don't have parts listed anymore. Yay ATF. Who are the go to people now for tubes etc?
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Posted: 6/28/2017 9:25:57 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By subvet707:
Form 1 was approved now I need components. My first two I used SD tactical but they don't have parts listed anymore. Yay ATF. Who are the go to people now for tubes etc? |
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Posted: 6/28/2017 9:28:56 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Slimjim:
Send a copy of your Form 1 to SD Tactical, and they will sell you components. |
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Posted: 6/30/2017 12:37:10 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By subvet707:
Ok thanks Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By subvet707:
Originally Posted By Slimjim:
Send a copy of your Form 1 to SD Tactical, and they will sell you components. |
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Posted: 7/3/2017 10:21:11 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By corruptor:
I could swear I read somewhere that they were NOT going to do this. I'm in a similar situation as far as the tubs and end caps go. subvet 707, will you let us know how this goes? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By corruptor:
Originally Posted By subvet707:
Originally Posted By Slimjim:
Send a copy of your Form 1 to SD Tactical, and they will sell you components. |
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Posted: 7/25/2017 6:00:51 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JAD762:
I'm interested in this too. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JAD762:
Originally Posted By corruptor:
Originally Posted By subvet707:
Originally Posted By Slimjim:
Send a copy of your Form 1 to SD Tactical, and they will sell you components. |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 7/27/2017 11:41:00 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By subvet707:
So I e mailed them shortly after posting here asking if I could purchase parts with an approved form 1 and haven't had a response back. I'm going to assume that means no. |
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Posted: 7/28/2017 8:21:15 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By the_naked_prophet:
Me, too. I bought parts elsewhere. |
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Posted: 7/28/2017 9:56:42 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SteelSC:
Where? I have been out of the form 1 game since P41. It's time to play again. Which venders are we using now? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SteelSC:
Originally Posted By the_naked_prophet:
Me, too. I bought parts elsewhere. |
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