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Posted: 7/5/2013 7:45:52 AM EDT
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RWS Dana makes three different versions of this side cocking springer. The 48, the 52 and the 54. These are full sized air rifles that weigh in at over 8 pounds.
The 48 has an ambi stock and because I am a left handed shooter, this is the one I bought. The 52 is finished a bit better with a right hand cheek rest but internally it is the same gun as the 48. Things change when one steps up to the 52. The entire action is on a slide that greatly reduces the vibration and allows the pellet to exit the barrel before the spring vibration can effect it. Therefore, it is not as important to hold the gun exactly the same for each shot although it probably would help. The 52 is quite pricy but if you are into air gunning it is generally cheap compared to a pre-charged pneumatic. When I got the 48, the first thing I did was decompose it and polish everything that touched or rubbed. I looked at the video on line that shows how to accurize it and did a bit of trigger work on an already fine trigger. I just made it better. This greatly reduced the break in period and it started shooting pinpoint pretty quickly. I did hone the chamber as part of the decomposition process and I am sure that helped. A lot of inaccuracy comes from the oils that are applied during manufacture that have to be cleared out a bit by repeated shooting. Even the special air gun oils that are used are part of this. My gun will put 5 or more 177 pellets into a quarter size circle at 100 feet when one arm is resting on a bench and while using the 3-9 scope that came with the gun. That isn't bad for a sporting springer. These are certainly a series of guns to look into if you are willing to pay a bit more to get a quality rifle. I believe they have a lifetime guarantee. |
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When I got the 48, the first thing I did was decompose it and polish everything that touched or rubbed. I looked at the video on line that shows how to accurize it and did a bit of trigger work on an already fine trigger. I just made it better. This greatly reduced the break in period and it started shooting pinpoint pretty quickly. I did hone the chamber as part of the decomposition process and I am sure that helped. A lot of inaccuracy comes from the oils that are applied during manufacture that have to be cleared out a bit by repeated shooting. Even the special air gun oils that are used are part of this. . . . I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "decompose." Are you suggesting that you tore your gun down? How did you control the spring? Care to share you spring compressor design? |
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When I got the 48, the first thing I did was decompose it and polish everything that touched or rubbed. I looked at the video on line that shows how to accurize it and did a bit of trigger work on an already fine trigger. I just made it better. This greatly reduced the break in period and it started shooting pinpoint pretty quickly. I did hone the chamber as part of the decomposition process and I am sure that helped. A lot of inaccuracy comes from the oils that are applied during manufacture that have to be cleared out a bit by repeated shooting. Even the special air gun oils that are used are part of this. . . . I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "decompose." Are you suggesting that you tore your gun down? How did you control the spring? Care to share you spring compressor design? Yes, I tore the gun down to fine parts. The spring is not uncontrollable if you have a good grip, strong arms, and accept the fact that it will push a little when things let loose. It is not what many people think. The manufactures are lawyerly cautious to make people think that a massive explosion will occur when the spring breaks free but no such thing happens even with a powerful gun like the model 48. I have done it a few times before with other guns and know what to expect. Here is a picture of my spring compressor. 
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Yes, I tore the gun down to fine parts. The spring is not uncontrollable if you have a good grip, strong arms, and accept the fact that it will push a little when things let loose. It is not what many people think. The manufactures are lawyerly cautious to make people think that a massive explosion will occur when the spring breaks free but no such thing happens even with a powerful gun like the model 48. I have done it a few times before with other guns and know what to expect. Here is a picture of my spring compressor. http://webpages.charter.net/vfr800/Arm.gif I feel a lot more comfortable with a spring compressor. I can't imagine trying to get the cross pins back in place while compressing the spring with my hands. |
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There is a wicked recoil impulse with the 48. Can be difficult to hold the scope securely...... The .22 caliber 48 I used to own had been tuned down a bit by a previous owner. It was actually pretty calm. Based on this sample of one, I'd say there's a lot of potential for a sweet shooter if you're willing to accept just a bit less power. BTW, I think this platform is best in .22. It just seems like too much power for .177 . . . again, this is based on a sample of one, so bring some salt when considering this comment. |
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After much deliberation, I ordered one of these. It's the one I've wanted since I was a young lad. The AA TX200 HC had me tempted for some time. For about twice the price and similar performance, it's just not worth it to me. It's going to get some dings with a lot of use outdoors, so while I acknowledge that the AA is a finer gun in all respects, the RWS should get the job done. It's known to have more power and similar accuracy, with much less invested in fit/finish/materials and with a harsher firing cycle. That's fine by me.
It arrives today  . I just hope it won't have a dry piston/spring as many have been coming. I'd rather not tear into right off when I can just shoot it smooth...for now.
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After much deliberation, I ordered one of these. It's the one I've wanted since I was a young lad. The AA TX200 HC had me tempted for some time. For about twice the price and similar performance, it's just not worth it to me. It's going to get some dings with a lot of use outdoors, so while I acknowledge that the AA is a finer gun in all respects, the RWS should get the job done. It's known to have more power and similar accuracy, with much less invested in fit/finish/materials and with a harsher firing cycle. That's fine by me. It arrives today . I just hope it won't have a dry piston/spring as many have been coming. I'd rather not tear into right off when I can just shoot it smooth...for now.What caliber did you go with? |
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What caliber did you go with? Quoted:
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After much deliberation, I ordered one of these. It's the one I've wanted since I was a young lad. The AA TX200 HC had me tempted for some time. For about twice the price and similar performance, it's just not worth it to me. It's going to get some dings with a lot of use outdoors, so while I acknowledge that the AA is a finer gun in all respects, the RWS should get the job done. It's known to have more power and similar accuracy, with much less invested in fit/finish/materials and with a harsher firing cycle. That's fine by me. It arrives today . I just hope it won't have a dry piston/spring as many have been coming. I'd rather not tear into right off when I can just shoot it smooth...for now.What caliber did you go with? .22. There's a consensus that the rifle is a bit overpowered in .177. Everyone that has one in both calibers seems to prefer the .22. I plan on doing something similar to the rare 52 carbine version, though with no irons, a slightly longer barrel, and stippling the plain stock. 
Something like this, but with uglier wood: 
I'm excited. The scope/mount won't come in for another week. That's going to be a long week. My father in law has a Benjamin Trail NP. He could afford anything out there but cheaped out. My priorities are all messed up, but I like having nice stuff and it's fun showing him up 
With the sale of a tactical scope that I had no home for (sale made the day after the rifle was purchased coincidentally!) I'm only out $3 for my entire rifle/scope/mount combo. The timing could not have been better. |
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.22. There's a consensus that the rifle is a bit overpowered in .177. Everyone that has one in both calibers seems to prefer the .22 . . . Quoted:
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After much deliberation, I ordered one of these. It's the one I've wanted since I was a young lad. The AA TX200 HC had me tempted for some time. For about twice the price and similar performance, it's just not worth it to me. It's going to get some dings with a lot of use outdoors, so while I acknowledge that the AA is a finer gun in all respects, the RWS should get the job done. It's known to have more power and similar accuracy, with much less invested in fit/finish/materials and with a harsher firing cycle. That's fine by me. It arrives today . I just hope it won't have a dry piston/spring as many have been coming. I'd rather not tear into right off when I can just shoot it smooth...for now.What caliber did you go with? .22. There's a consensus that the rifle is a bit overpowered in .177. Everyone that has one in both calibers seems to prefer the .22 . . . FWIW, I think that's a good call. I predict you'll enjoy this gun. |
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This would be a very true statement. Ask me how I know.
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There is a wicked recoil impulse with the 48. Can be difficult to hold the scope securely...... This would be a very true statement. Ask me how I know.
I wouldn't call it a recoil. It's more of a vibration IMO. Locktite is your friend. |
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Rick: I made an impulse by at Wally on a Benjamine NP Trail.
Worse move on an airgun I ever made. After more than 600 pels break in it till shoots at a little over 600 f.p.s., far less than the advertised 850 with a 14.3 grain pel. Accuracy is awful at 3" at 20 yards. It must be sent back to the factory for an evaluation. What a p.i.t.a. |
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Rick: I made an impulse by at Wally on a Benjamine NP Trail. Worse move on an airgun I ever made. After more than 600 pels break in it till shoots at a little over 600 f.p.s., far less than the advertised 850 with a 14.3 grain pel. Accuracy is awful at 3" at 20 yards. It must be sent back to the factory for an evaluation. What a p.i.t.a. That's a shame. Unfortunately that experience is all too common. I would at minimum buy the lower end of the German or English guns. Some of the Turkish guns have a good reputation but value wise the prices are still a bit too close to the better guns. My father-in-law has a Trail NP, and while it shoots well, they have a reputation for the pivot and lock-up loosening excessively over time. His also had what I would call excessive barrel droop. After installing a set of offset rings it was still almost out of elevation adjustment. I wouldn't buy anything from China or Spain (rifle wise, that is. I have a Gamo Compact match pistol that is excellent). Personally, I would consider an RWS 34 as a starting point in the break barrels, and the 48 as a starting point in the fixed barrels. What I admire about the German guns is that the performance matches some of the best available, though they are just a bit rougher in the fit/finish/materials department as the finer and more expensive offerings. I don't mind a cheap plain stock and have no need for a deep blued finish on something that's going to be used outdoors most of the time. I had considered the Gamo Whisper CFR as I could get one cheap through work. They just aren't consistent or nice enough to justify the price. Some guys have great experiences with such guns. I just don't like rolling the dice. Back to topic, I love my 48. It is a sweet shooter. Powerful, accurate, and moderately attractive. While I settled on this over an Air Arms TX200HC, I am not found wanting, and the wife was easy to deal with over the purchase. After the sale of a tactical scope, I was only out of pocket a few bucks. |
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I learned the hard way to spend at least moderate money on a decent airgun.
The M-48 was my 1st serious airgun and remains my favorite. I like the side cocker, it's easy to cock and shoot, and quite accurate. Squirrel season came in here Sept 1st but it's still summer and trees in full leaf making seeing the critters tough. I do love to hunt with an airgun though as it's challenging, shots should be taken under 25 yards and well placed. The M-48 is easily up to the task. |
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The 48 does not have a "wicked" recoil. It's really rather mild for a hi quality springer.
Mine is at least 15 yrs old and I just had the spring replaced. I'm lucky to have an airgun smith only 3 miles from me. He replaced the spring in a Walther Talon (.22) with an industrial gas ram. Now that has some serious recoil but also gives greater velocity and is accurate. I know of no one that takes an airgun apart with out a spring compressor. To do so is flirting with ruining a good airgun. I'm thinking of selling all my springers and gas rams to buy a Marauder p.c.p rifle. The Benjamin Trail was a stupid impulse buy on my part and my airgun smith friend says thers isn't any way to "fix" the poor design. I'll send it back to the factory or toss the junk in the trash. Currently my favorite all round airgun is the M-48 springer. Over my P-35 chrono it gives me an honest 840 f.p.s. at 15 ft. from the muzzle using 14.3 Crossman pels. Anyone else chrono thier airguns? Results please? |
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RWS Dana makes three different versions of this side cocking springer. The 48, the 52 and the 54. These are full sized air rifles that weigh in at over 8 pounds. The 48 has an ambi stock and because I am a left handed shooter, this is the one I bought. The 52 is finished a bit better with a right hand cheek rest but internally it is the same gun as the 48. Things change when one steps up to the 52. The entire action is on a slide that greatly reduces the vibration and allows the pellet to exit the barrel before the spring vibration can effect it. Therefore, it is not as important to hold the gun exactly the same for each shot although it probably would help. The 52 is quite pricy but if you are into air gunning it is generally cheap compared to a pre-charged pneumatic. When I got the 48, the first thing I did was decompose it and polish everything that touched or rubbed. I looked at the video on line that shows how to accurize it and did a bit of trigger work on an already fine trigger. I just made it better. This greatly reduced the break in period and it started shooting pinpoint pretty quickly. I did hone the chamber as part of the decomposition process and I am sure that helped. A lot of inaccuracy comes from the oils that are applied during manufacture that have to be cleared out a bit by repeated shooting. Even the special air gun oils that are used are part of this. My gun will put 5 or more 177 pellets into a quarter size circle at 100 feet when one arm is resting on a bench and while using the 3-9 scope that came with the gun. That isn't bad for a sporting springer. These are certainly a series of guns to look into if you are willing to pay a bit more to get a quality rifle. I believe they have a lifetime guarantee. Never satisfied to leave well enough alone, I bought a Vortek tune kit for the RWS 48. linky dinky and took it down again to install it. I ordered the "O" ring piston seal and when the install was complete, after following their limited instructions, I went through about 100 pellets only to find that in my gun, the accuracy was terrible, but the spring kit did smooth it out considerably. The twang and much of the vibration was gone. I then purchased the Vortek red piston seal and breech seal and installed them when they arrived. By this time, I was getting quite good at stripping the gun down and Rube Goldberged a furniture clamp to compress the spring even though I could do it by arm strength with the assistance of my wife to start the pins. The clamp now made it a one person job. It didn't take long to see the accuracy return with all the benefits of the guided spring that the Vortek kit provides. The money spent made a great gun even better. Spring air rifles have a lot going on inside them when they are fired. First of all, the pellet doesn't exit the barrel before recoil takes over. The first rearward recoil is the spring releasing. The second recoil is the spring reaching the end of its travel. That is the forward kick that is often discussed and the one that eats scopes that are not hardened for air guns. There is one more motion that is considerably less than the others but still there just the same. When the spring reaches the end of its travel, the pressure of the compressed air actually pushes the spring back a fraction because the spring has expended most of its compressed force and all that is left is the force of the preload which in some cases is not enough to counteract the compressed air forces acting against the spring. So it is easy to see how the same hold be it artillery or any other you choose, is important to duplicate to maintain accuracy. My gun likes a firmer hold than the loose artillery hold, others may be different. |
| Good info. Thanks for sharing. I have a used 48 in .177 that I picked up a few years ago. I agree that it seems a bit 'hot' for this caliber. May end up swapping it out for a .22. How is the sound report on the .22? My .177 is louder than .22 CB caps from a .22 rifle. Would like to get that .22 into the subsonic range to keep the noise down. |
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I just got a used RWS 48 in .177 from a friend who wants to sell it (cheap $200 I think?) who on an impulse buy got it used shot it a couple times and put it away.
It is an older gun that has been around and by that I mean around, stock has a crack in forend, iron sites are gone, has a Beeman muzzle device on it that replaced the front sight assembly and the older 2 screw trigger that was all wacked out. It has a Bushnell 4x scope with what look like cheap Simmons rings with a recoil block. I got the trigger adjusted to a shootable level and am learning to shoot the thing. Moments of greatness then not so much The Beeman Muzzle deal does not fit properly and seems too long, the end of the barrel is back in side it a good bit. I am considering cutting it off just forward of the barrel, you need the stupid thing to hold the barrel sleeve on. I found this out the first day shooting it when it all loosened and all started to rattle. Don't know if it will make loud or not. I will shoot a couple round with nothing on it to see before I start cutting. Anyone ever shoot just the bare barrel, No sleeve or sight/muzzle device?. On a standard 48 is the muzzle flush to the end of the sight sleeve so when the air and pellet leave the barrel there is nothing to interfere with the air released, now the way it is it has to bounce around the Beeman thing to get out the front as it is not ported in any way? Any suggestions on reviving this old girl? Pellet preferences? Chamber oiling? Been reading on these things and a lot of contradicting info out there  .
Thanks |
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None. The synthetic seals in a modern RWS need no lubrication. All you'll accomplish by putting any kind of oil in the chamber is causing the gun to diesel. That's not a good thing. Quoted:
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Chamber oiling? None. The synthetic seals in a modern RWS need no lubrication. All you'll accomplish by putting any kind of oil in the chamber is causing the gun to diesel. That's not a good thing. I printed off the manual and it says "Apply 2 drops of RWS Chamber Lube every 1000 shots. It is easily applied through the compression chamber port with a 3 1/2" applicator needle". It shows dropping the oil back into where the air come from to push the pellet. Like you say I would think it would cause it to diesel. Kind of confusing and contradicting
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I printed off the manual and it says "Apply 2 drops of RWS Chamber Lube every 1000 shots. It is easily applied through the compression chamber port with a 3 1/2" applicator needle". It shows dropping the oil back into where the air come from to push the pellet. Like you say I would think it would cause it to diesel. Kind of confusing and contradicting Quoted:
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Chamber oiling? None. The synthetic seals in a modern RWS need no lubrication. All you'll accomplish by putting any kind of oil in the chamber is causing the gun to diesel. That's not a good thing. I printed off the manual and it says "Apply 2 drops of RWS Chamber Lube every 1000 shots. It is easily applied through the compression chamber port with a 3 1/2" applicator needle". It shows dropping the oil back into where the air come from to push the pellet. Like you say I would think it would cause it to diesel. Kind of confusing and contradicting Hey, RWS airguns have a lifetime warranty. What could possibly go wrong? Seriously, I don't think it would hurt to drop two drops of chamber lube in there, but I really don't think it's going to help anything either. Chamber lube is primarily intended for guns with leather seals. You gun does not have leather seals. |
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I would say they are pretty tuff considering the lack of care this one has probably had.
I dumped the Bushnell as it kept wandering, everytime I shot the thing I was chasing it all over the paper and the clicks were not positive on the up and down knob. When I got it it shot 6in. high and took 3 turns on the knob to bring it down (clue) and when I took it off somene had a shim in the rear ring trying to get it to shoot lower  .
I thought it was me and the learning curve for a spring gun and the fact it had a non forgiving sight box. I swapped out the scope for one I had lying around and the clouds parted the sun came out and can shoot dime size groups at will @22yds. Time to pay the man. |
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